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Hi Plasterers!
I've took it on myself to dry line and skim the extension we're having. I've done a bit of skimming to a decent standard but just need a couple of questions answering if you can,
1. I was taught to put plasterboard on a wall with plaster (thistle multi finish) I've now seen on youtube proper dry lining adhesive, should I be using this instead? or is plaster ok? Today I used a can of Soudal's dry lining adhesive in a can but at nearly a tenner a go I think it will be a bit expensive in the long run?
2. When a wall is dry lined ready for skim coats do you need to tape the gaps? If so why can't you just plaster over them which I have done before.
Thanks
G
I taped seams the last time I did a diy job. I reckon it spreads the splitting/crack loading further onto the board and less likely to hairline crack. It's not expensive stuff.
I batten if I have to. Id rather use foam. The foam I use is the sticky foam from screwfix. Low expansion. Sticks well. Had no issues.
Leave minute gaps between the boards 2-3mm, helps prevent cracking. Then use scrim tape over the joins. I also tape over screwheads, that's a personal thing.
Ive never heard of using multi finish to bond board to walls. Does it work????
Hi,
Multi finish is a finishing plaster,they didn't design it for sticking boards on but I must admit I've used it for that on really small sections but not full boards,I use dry wall adhesive,you must sgrim the joints otherwise they will crack in time,I'm sure someone will be along to tell me I've been doing it wrong for 15 years,but that's plasterers for you.
Not a plasterer but did something similar couple of weeks ago. Used paper tape on the gaps but the boards were tapered edge. Is supposed to prevent cracking in the future.
Always use board adhesive. You should "picture frame" the area the board will be dabbed, as in a dab all around the outer edge, you should then have individual dabs on the wall. Rear the board into place with a spacer of two bits of board at the bottom to keep it directly off the floor. All joints should be scrim taped.
OK Cheers, I'll get some dry wall adhesive or more adhesive foam, I'll also get some scrim tape.
Thanks all.
Can i ask, what do you do with the gaps at the top where wall meets ceiling? I've a loft room to do soon. Is the gap at the bottom just left and covered by skirting?
Coving covered my gaps
Loft nearing completion of my DIY job. Filled any little gaps between ceiling and wall plasterboard with acoustic sealant, then taped the joins and finished with a plaster skim.
Yup the purpose of skirting is to cover the untidyness of the plaster at the bottom of the wall 🙂 Actually I ended up using D-line trunking for some parts of the loft instead.
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I'd say paper tape is a lot better than scrim netting for taping joints. I use Gyproc Easi-Fill which I've always found great to work with, you can use it as filler and adhesive and it comes in a range of open times depending how much you've got to do/how quick you are. I've got on well with Knauf adhesive for dot and dabbing, and I think it gives you much more scope to adjust the board on the wall than foam adhesive, plus you can dab to give solid spots for wall fixings if you're planning to hand cupboards, shelves, etc.
You should definitely be using Dri wall Adhesive/Board Adhesive as it's designed to do the very job and readily available .
Wickes and BandQs do it - [url= http://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Gypsum-Based-Plasterboard-Adhesive-25kg/p/141933 ]Board Adhesive[/url] or [url= http://www.diy.com/departments/gyproc-dri-wall-adhesive-10kg/35798_BQ.prd ]Dri Wall Adhesive[/url]
and yes you do need to tape any plasterboard joints with fibre tape .