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Real basics needed here. I'm planning on putting plasterboard walls and ceiling in my garage which is built from aerated blocks.
I'm thinking that I need to batten first and should probably insulate it whilst I'm at it. I was thinking of using either 25 or 50 mm Celotex insulation board, but I have no idea about the battening material I need.
Does the batten need to be either 25 or 50 mm thick to sandwich the insulation perfectly or should there be a gap? I've been looking on the Wickes website for the battening material, but have so far come up with nothing in these thickness's. Also what type of wood should I be looking for?
Help!
Ate you plasterboarding onto brick walls? If so the use board adesive...loads quicker and easier than batoning an entire room! For the ceiling you will need to baton.
It's a single wall outbuilding - I've been led to believe that if I were to dot and dab it I would probably end up with moisture transferring from outside.
insulation is always a good idea if its going to be a room to use ?
usually you would use cls timber for battening 47mm and use some wool insulation as cheaper. ask at the merchants like travis or jewson then try and get it cheaper elsewhere.. as you wont have a account at the merchant so you will get stiffed .
roof , just screw to joists and board above if you want storage area ?
you can insulate with wool there too same as loft etc..
if this is a outside garage with damp you may need to look at waterproof plaster boards for bathrooms ? as damp soon ruins it
good luck
You can use foil backed plasterboards, that will stop any moisture transfer.
Are you sure it's single skin built from thermalites or similar? If so they suck up water like a sponge and will **** up any boarding you do....
If it were me I'd bitumen the walls first to help stop moisture coming through and maybe even use a membrane as well. You could also use pressure treated wood for the battens. You might be better finding a timber merchants rather than Wickes.
Are you sure it's single skin built from thermalites or similar?
Pretty much - looks like breeze blocks with rendering outside. I'm going to be using the building as a bike shed come workshop and want it to be nice inside - i.e. I want to stop the creepy crawlies getting in!
I'm open to suggestions!
Cls is 38mm x 63mm so if using that turn it edge on (63mm) and friction fit 50mm celotex leaving 13mm air gap behind it. If the stud work is to be fixed to the wall then a waterproof breathable membrane ( tyvek house wrap, or supro if building control will pass it) should be used on single skin block work if its exposed. If its rendered them the membrane isnt always necessary. All holes drilled for fixings should be filled with silicone pprior to the rawl plug being inserted to cut down water transfer.
It might be an idea to fit rockwool rather than celotex to the wall adjoining the house, to give better sound insulation. Foil backed boards can be used, though wouldnt be necessary if celotex or similar have been used.
It's a bit rough arse using thermalites on a single skin to be fair rendered or not! As above then, personally I wouldn't do anything to the house wall other than dab it as you'd hope that wall was insulated already in the cavity and be protected at floor level with a dpc....