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Hanging pine cupboard and plate rack on to kitchen wall. Wall construction is block and insulated plaster board dot and dabbed. I was planning to drill right through into block for fixings but I have an electrical cable directly behind one of the fixings.
Because the plaster board is insulated I have enough space to fit a redidriva or alternative plaster board fixing. But never used these before.
Are they any good and what is the load rating and which is best?
thanks!!
[i]I have an electrical cable directly behind one of the fixings.[/i]
move the fixing point?
I would'nt trust my crockery to a fixing that's squeezed between a bit of plasterboard and some blockwork, tbh.
Also, if you make a hole there it's possibel the next person along may decide it's 'ok' to improve your work by drilling and fitting a proper wall fixing.
I want to avoid moving the fixing if possible.
two types i can thinnk of, one is a butterfly bolt that opens behind the plaster board and clamps tight to ot, the other is the threaded rawplug type (use the metal ones plastic are sh@t)
Like Hustler said. Get some toggle bolts. Might even be worth giving the back of the cabinet a slathering of No More Nails, or something similar, just for a bit of extra security.
toggle bolts better than these?
[url= http://www.screwfix.com/p/metal-redidrivas-35mm-pack-of-100/11923 ]redidrivas[/url]
I prefer the redidriva type in general use, I've put fairly hefty shelves up with them, but it depends on the cabinet design and where the fixings are as to how confident I'd be in them. For the shelves I was using those perforated uprights so there were fixing every few inches up the wall. A lot of kitchen cabinets only fix to the wall at the top two corners so theres not really any redundancy.
redidrivas are convenient to use but the plaster around them is getting chewed up as you screw them in so you putting your faith in fixing that is gripping broken plaster. Toggle type ones are passed through a clean drilled hole and braced against good plaster, a lot of the plaster has to give for them to pull out.
Toggle bolts don't work on insulated plasterboard. You have two options. redidrivers are ok but we wouldn't specify them with a small kitchen cabinet let alone a plate rack although you would be surprised at what the plasterboard could take. Remember that insulated plasterboard is only 10mm thick and is therefore a few mm less than orderinary plasterboard and therefore a bit weaker. Why not phone British Gypsum technical for some input - 0844 800 1991? Another alternative is to put up a pattress board of say 15-18mm plywood. You can put in hwoever many more fixings for the pattress board using redidrivers to make sure and then screw your shelves to the pattress board?
Just be careful of the electric cable position
I used plasterboard rawl plugs to hang kitchen units 2 years ago...they're full of tins/jars etc, and one has a load of crockery in it.
They haven't fallen off yet...touch wood.
Disclaimer...don't take my post above as advice...I still don't trust the cupboards to not fall off.
Cant you just make a slightly bigger hole & lever the cable aside while you drill the hole.
A lot of kitchen cabinets only fix to the wall at the top two corners so theres not really any redundancy
think you'll find most have a baton near the bottom too that normally has 2 screws long enough to either get through into brick or extra fittings
Quite a few I've used only fix at the top, but I don't make a habit of hanging lots of cabinets, so I don't know how typical that is. Point is most cabinets aren't intended to have lots fixings, so the fixing you use needs to be good.
only 2 fixings on my cupboards.
After extensive research I've decided to move the fixing points. I've found some load values for teh rawl expanding fixings and I think i'm a bit close to the receommended max. and my wife will go nuts if all her posh plates ended up as a pile of broken porcelain on the kitchen floor.....