[Closed] Photography: the absolute basics.

1.6" Is the shutter time, ie it will be open for 1.6 seconds

F16 is the aperture size (the hole that lets the light image in) the bigger the number the smaller the hole

ISO800 is the 'Film speed' but now it's the sensor capability . The lower the number ie 100 the more light is needed but the quality of the image will be higher. As you move up through the ISO numbers you need less light but the image will be more 'grainy'

Must be some good Youtube videos on it

The 1.6 relates to the amount of time the shutter is open for. Longer shutter speed = more light to the sensor. 1.6 seconds is very long - you’d likely have a blurry pic hand held with anything longer than 0.2 seconds.

F16 is the aperture - how large the hole in the lens is. The smaller the number, the larger the hole and the more light hits the sensor. This will also affect the picture sharpness and depth of field. The wider the aperture, the faster you can have the shutter speed to reduce blur.

ISO800 is effectively how sensitive to light the sensor is. A low number is less sensitive, but less noisy as a result.

To make a picture that isn't completely white from too much light, or black from not enough, you need just the right amount of light getting to the film or sensor.

Option one, let light in for more or less time. Called shutter speed, variable from a few seconds to thousanths of a second. Yours is set at 1.6 seconds. (")

Option two have a bigger or smaller hole to let the light through, called the aperture, and measured in F stops, from F2 ish down to F64 ish, bigger number, smaller hole, less light in a given amount of time.

Option three make the film or sensor more or less sensitive to light. Back in the 80s everybody used ISO 100 film for everyday, 200 or 400 in dark/winter/Scotland as there wasn't much light. Bigger number, more sensitive, downside it can make film grainy looking or sensor to show more noise/artifacts.

UK conditions, ISO 200, 1/125" and F8 might have been a decent guess for a daylight pic.

That’s great. Thanks! How come the first in is in inches? If I wind it all the way it goes to 30”, then BULB?

1.6" is probably the exposure time (1.6 seconds, long exposure)
F16 is the lens aperture - how wide the lens opens, bigger number = smaller hole, so F16 is stopped down to a small aperture. This increases depth of field but means longer exposure times to get the picture
ISO is the film speed - how long does the fim need to be exposed to get the picture. Higher number = faster film = shorter exposure times and/or smaller apertures needed. With film, slower film speeds tended to mean richer, more saturated colours so better for landscapes. Faster film better for sports/action shots but harsher colours

30 = 30 seconds. B or BULB is open the shutter and keep it open until you close it. For example, on a clear night, mount the camera on a tripod, point it at Polaris, use the B setting and leave the shutter open for an hour or 2. The stars will move, creating a "star whirl"

Cool!

Starting to get it. So am I right in thinking that the basic skill in photography is the balance between these three settings and knowing how to set them to get the desired result, whether that be faithful or creative?

If you're taking pics in daylight, you don't need big long exposures(shutter speed) over a second. Not only that, whatever you're taking a pic of is likely to move, or your hands will shake too much. Anything over 1/30" and it's tricky to avoid motion blur.

Bulb, well when you stick it on a tripod and take a long exposure over 30s, you used a air bulb to hold the shutter down as long as you liked.

[img] [/img]

" is seconds, not inches.

Bulb means "open while you hold the shutter" effectively. You would only use that for things like night photography.

Typically, your shutter speed, unless using a tripod, is perhaps going to be between 1/60th and maybe 1/500th for a lot of shooting. As above, a middling light situation might see you on ISO200 or 400, 1/125th-1/250th, F no in the middle of the range.

Set the ISO on 200 say for now, unless the day is particularly dark, in which case bump it up to 400. You can leave the camera fully manual, or you can choose to prioritise either the shutter speed, or the aperture. These are labelled on my Canon as Tv or Av. In these modes, you choose one and the camera will work out the other for you.

Slow shutter speeds lead to less sharp images. Wide apertures (small number) can lead to a narrow depth of field, meaning that the image is not sharp all the way from foreground to distance. You can use this for effect.

Any more for now is getting complicated, and believe me, there's lots and lots BUT none of it is rocket science, and if you do just a little research you'll soon get the hang of the basics.

Which camera did you get?

This looks OK at a quick glance:

https://digital-photography-school.com/megapost-learning-how-to-use-your-first-dslr/

I got the camera for product photography using a tripod . Small, stationary objects under bright lights. But now I’ve got it i’ve become interested in how it all works, as opposed to finding a setting that works, but without understanding what’s actually happening.

Malgrey:

Canon 500d. And my mate gave me a flash for it which is better than the onboard one apparently.

https://froknowsphoto.com/

I find this guys youtube channel quite watchable.

My top tip, find a photo you like, and try and reverse engineer it, much more fun than just pointing the camera at stuff and wondering why it looks rubbish.

Get a copy of this, it will really help you understand these three important factors you are asking about, is a good book

[url= https://www.amazon.co.uk/Understanding-Exposure-Shoot-Photographs-Camera/dp/0817439390 ]understanding exposure[/url]

my mate gave me a flash for it which is better than the onboard one apparently.

What I'd do with that is put it away until you can use your camera.

I know may way around the camera reasonably well in terms of your OP question, but the flash still confuses the shite out of me.

Warning, oversimplification alert:

You need sufficient light through the lens for a correctly exposed shot. As others have said, shutter speed is how long you have the lens open for, and aperture is how wide. If you increase one, you must decrease the other to offset it. If you shoot in Av or Tv mode then you have direct control over one of these and the camera will try to adjust the other for you to match. Why you would want to do this is a longer conversation!

Water is a good analogy here. You're tipping a water into a litre bucket to fill it. In terms of time taken and the size of the mouth of the vessel, compare a bottle and a jug.

ISO is the sensitivity of the sensor. Increasing the ISO means you need less light - a smaller bucket, if you like. You can adjust this as a 'wild card' to an extent in order to get the speed and aperture you require, but too a high ISO introduces 'noise' into the photo.

What I'd do with that is put it away until you can use your camera.

I agree Cougar. Just thought i’d mention it.

Just a small point, but ISO is not how sensitive the sensor is to light, it’s how much gain is applied after the image signal after it’s been captured by the sensor. This is important to understand because it’s how you get from an image of low signal to noise ratio to one with a high ratio.

OP here.

This might be a really daft question: but can you use lenses from old cameras on a DSLR?

Probably not cos anologue/digital, but was roaming round the local junk shop today and there's loads of old photography stuff for next to nothing. Is it all redundant? Anything worth looking out for?

geetee1972 -

Thinking of it from an audio analogy - is it then common practise to always use as low ISO as possible, and to increase it (the gain) as a last resort to boost an unsatisfactory signal? Like getting the best audio signal into a recorder from source, and only using the gain to boost a low signal?

Cheers!

<span style="display: inline !important; float: none; background-color: transparent; color: #444444; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue','Helvetica',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 14.4px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">This might be a really daft question: but can you use lenses from old cameras on a DSLR?</span>

It depends.

What make/model?

Depends on your camera make & model.

Canon 500d

Canon lens compatibility:

Second the book, Understanding Exposure.

It's excellent.

Take pictures. Lots of them. Experiment. Play with depth of field. Find out about how focal lengths affect a picture. Close up with a wide angle is not the same as far away with a telephoto. Distort things deliberately. Learn to frame a shot. Learn the rule of thirds and then subvert it.

The best shots are never perfect, perfect shots are never the best.

Don’t do what everyone else is. Try and be original. Probably fail.

Try and make the eventual viewer of the picture think.

Have fun. Cameras are fun.

Thinking of it from an audio analogy – is it then common practise to always use as low ISO as possible, and to increase it (the gain) as a last resort to boost an unsatisfactory signal? Like getting the best audio signal into a recorder from source, and only using the gain to boost a low signal?

Yes that's exactly how it works. All digital cameras have a native or base ISO at which there is no gain applied and where the camera is recording an image with the last amount of noise and the widest possible dynamic range (i.e. the widest gamut of lights and darks recorded without clipping to white, which is what happens when there is too much electrical charge and the sensor cannot record the data, it just goes to white which is zero information).

For that reason, in theory at least, the image quality will be the best at base ISO but in practical use, you probably won't notice much difference up to a given ISO; how high you can go before you see a deterioration (you will see it in the blacks first, which will start to look grey and washed out) will depend on your camera.A decent DSLR with an APS-C sensor will let you shoot up to around 1800 without you noticing much. A more expensive full frame camera will go up to 6400 although some APS-C cameras these days offer almost as much ISO performance.

The best way to work with ISO when you're shooting is to set a range and let the camera float between them. It will most likely default to the lowest possible setting based on your exposure settings.

This might be a really daft question: but can you use lenses from old cameras on a DSLR?

Usually.  But you lose 'smart' features like auto-focus.

Second the book, Understanding Exposure.

Thirded.  You need to understand how to operate your camera first, once you do it's pretty much the bible for giving you ideas for settings in given situations.

The best way to work with ISO when you’re shooting is to set a range and let the camera float between them. It will most likely default to the lowest possible setting based on your exposure settings.

On the 500D if you shove ISO in Auto it'll choose a broadly appropriate ISO setting, but it will rarely (never?) choose the really high settings, you need to do that manually.

On the 500D if you shove ISO in Auto it’ll choose a broadly appropriate ISO setting, but it will rarely (never?) choose the really high settings, you need to do that manually.

You can't tell it the range to work with, for example, float between 100 and 3200?

"Usually. But you lose ‘smart’ features like auto-focus."

It can be more than that. Whilst adapters are available (especially for Canon bodies due to a fluke in the design of the EOS lens mount) to make many brands of old lens fit, in actuality you also lose aperture control (that's on the lens) and metering of the brightness (and thus required aperture, shutter speed and ISO) can also be off. Even manual focusing can also be much more of a pain as modern dSLRs don't have the old ground glass split in the viewfinder that an old analogue camera would so getting focus correct even on a stationary scene can be a right PITA. The focus assist lights (the little red ones in the viewfinder) also usually cease to operate when you have an old lens attached. I have an emotional attachment to the old Olypmus OM Zuiko lenses. I have a few that are optically brilliant, but are a complete PITA to use even on a tripod, never mind with any subjects that move. My intention longer term is to pick a new camera (my old 5D MkII is getting rather long in the tooth) and buy the appropriate lenses for that platform. I appreciate that this isn't exactly the budget approach.

tl;dr - yes, old lenses can work, but they're almost always too much of a hassle

Nothing to add to the technical side of what's been said, but a quick way to play when you have a spare 10 minutes (but not a substitute for taking lots of real photos) to see the interactions of the controls is one of the online camera sims

e.g.  http://camerasim.com/apps/original-camerasim/web//

It gives a quick visual representation of how the controls interact. Helps you to realise the three controls are a compromise that you have to manage to get the picture you want.

very useful thread

Does anyone have any experience with compatible non Canon lenses? It looks like the OP should be able to get an EFS 50mm F1.8 from ebay or Amazon for around £45. They review well but I have never used one. It looks like a good inexpensive lens to learn with.

https://www.amazon.co.uk › Yongnuo-E..."> http://Yongnuo EF YN 50mm F/1.8 1:1.8 Standard Prime Lens for: Amazon.co ... https://www.amazon.co.uk › Yongnuo-E...

I started with old manual film cameras, which only had a light meter to help with exposure. <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">One big benefit of DSLRs is that you can just fire off thousands of shots and pick out a few good ones. With film, you needed to have a basic understanding of what you were doing or you were just wasting money.</span>

<span style="font-size: 0.8rem;">To learn about photography, I would suggest using it in manual mode a lot and keep notes on what you do. Maybe try taking a photo in auto mode, then play with aperture and exposure and see if you can recreate or improve on the auto settings. </span>

Canon's own "nifty fifty" f/1.8 50mm is only about 80 quid I think. Just get that. Apart from the autofocus, it's damn-near as good as the pro ones. That said, it's very hard to make a poor 50mm lens.

OP got the camera for product shots, investment to make would be one of those pre-packaged studio-in-a-box popup tent gadgets with lights and backdrops built in. Get them on Amazon and elsewhere from £50-150. AmazonBasics do one. Pop product in, zip it up, poke camera through hole, job done.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/bestsellers/electronics/1330780031/ref=zg_b_bs_1330780031_1

Yes, I should've bought one of those to be fair. Instead I bought a table-like contraption and four massive softbox things that take up loads of room. Think my logic at the time was to future-proof and have flexibility of photographing models/bigger stuff as I was also given a load of huge 3m backdrop rolls.

Really appreciate all the info given on this thread. Ordered that recommended book too.

Really appreciate all the info given on this thread. Ordered that recommended book too.

For what you're aiming to do, have a look at Karl Taylor on Youtube. He specialises in high end product photography and has a lot really excellent videos on basic tips and tricks that he uses to sell on the more comprehensive paid for content.

"So am I right in thinking that the basic skill in photography is the balance between these three settings and knowing how to set them to get the desired result, whether that be faithful or creative?"

The basic skill in photography is composition i.e. framing the subject, but also knowing what will make a good photograph in the first place.

Getting the exposure right is easy in comparison, and you can always bracket the exposure, adjust the image afterwards or just rely on the hugely impressive metering of so many current cameras (including the one on most phones).

Getting the exposure right is easy in comparison

Agreed. But how you get the exposure defines part of the composition (if not the actual framing as such). Fast shutter to freeze action or slow shutter to let parts blur, tight aperture to extend depth of field or wide aperture to isolate the subject and background - playing with it helps learning.

As per siwhite, the aperture size will affect your depth of field. This was one of the first things I needed to get my head around, and once you've done it it is one if the most satisfying things to play with, and an easy way to get a really impressive looking shot!

In a nutshell the narrower the aperture the shallower the depth of field, ie the foreground and background will be out of focus. This looks amazing, and is a trick used on pretty much every movie close up everrrrrr. To get this without it looking too dark you need either tons of light, a slow shutter speed or a very sensitive chip (sensor).
Another way to get the same effect is to have a long lens and more distance between you and the subject, however this may require a tripod (or a ridiculously steady hand lol)

Shallow depth of field:

[img] [/img]

You’ve got that the wrong way round. A shallow depth of field is created by a wide open aperture, which also lets lots of light in.

A deep depth of field which allows everything to be in focus is created by a narrow aperture and requires lots of light. Hence a tripod is needed for landscape photography.

Fair point!

And pinhole cameras tlr, with their infinite depth of field.

Which also demonstrate how things go into a soft defraction focus when apertures are two small.

Images  tend to get softer after being stopped below f11. f8 is 'usually' the sweet spot.

 You can’t tell it the range to work with, for example, float between 100 and 3200?

Not to my knowledge.

F8 and be there, baby.

(Sorry, couldn’t help myself)

eddiebaby

Images tend to get softer after being stopped below f11. f8 is ‘usually’ the sweet spot.

Must admit I've tried not to get involved, but this, whilst technically correct, is one of the silly 'rules' which stops people from experimenting and learning.

Depending on sensor size, lens quality and lots of math involving the Circle of confusion you can work out 'perceptual sharpness' to within a nat's hair without even looking through your camera, but where's the fun in that.
The f8-11 is sharpest 'rule' is perpetuated by pixel peepers who spend their lives at zoomed to 100 and 200%. Yes, generally beyond F11 on full frame sensors, diffraction starts to play a part in image sharpness. In practice even with wall-sized prints -when viewed at a sensible viewing distance, ie not pixel peeping- you'd be hard pressed to see any difference at all.

In a nutshell the narrower the aperture the shallower the depth of field, ie the foreground and background will be out of focus. This looks amazing,

One of the things I've learned more recently is to stop the aperture down more for portraiture rather than shooting wide open. I'm lucky to have the chance to shoot with a Lecia and a fast lens and having spent some time on the Leica user's forum I've come to realise just how saccharine and awful are the photographs of so many Leica users; it's like they surgically remove your aesthetic gland when you buy a Leica and a fast lens.

The over use of wide open apertures, especially for portraits is cloying, sentimental and cliched. I don't shoot below f/2 these days and most of my portraiture is shot between f/2.8 and f/5.6 on a 50mm lens. For street photography I'll use a 35mm lens and nothing below f/8 - on a bright day I will use f/11 or even f/16.

There is a very good rule of thumb for exposure - the 'sunny 16' rule. Simply stated is says that the shutter speed in bright sunlight for any image shot at f/16 is the reciprocal of the ISO (and it applies equally to digital ISO gain as much as it did film speed).

So in bright sunlight, at ISO100, you shutter speed for f/16 is 1/100 (which is 1/125 strictly speaking); at ISO400 it's 1/400 (1/500).

Take off one or two stops for light cloud cover, three for heavy cloud cover. Once you realise that everything moves in line with everything else in regulated measures (stops), you can shoot manual exposure without even needing a light meter.

The f8-11 is sharpest ‘rule’ is perpetuated by pixel peepers who spend their lives at zoomed to 100 and 200%.

Sunny 16 is based on a sunny day in the summer a lot closer to the equator than we are. So will generally underexpose by around 1 stop in UK bright summer conditions, more so the rest of the year, if you're stuck without a light meter then it's a really useful tool but you need to compensate based on your location.

TBH the best exposure is the one you find aesthetically pleasing no matter what a light meter or a histogram tell you.

It’s an old manual everything rule. It gave, and still gives, margin for error. This is still particularly true when you get a light focus miss. You won’t notice it at f8.

Correct you won't notice on film at small print sizes. However f8 can still be a remarkably shallow depth of field depending on focal length and focus distance.

I should have worded that as 'The f8-11 is sharpest ‘rule’ is [b]still needlessly[/b] perpetuated by pixel peepers who spend their lives at zoomed to 100 and 200%.' 😉

Sunny 16 is based on a sunny day in the summer a lot closer to the equator than we are. So will generally underexpose by around 1 stop in UK bright summer conditions, more so the rest of the year, if you’re stuck without a light meter then it’s a really useful tool but you need to compensate based on your location.

This is true; actually I thought I'd written 'add a stop for British summer' but I must have some how deleted that sentence before posting.

Correct you won’t notice on film at small print sizes. However f8 can still be a remarkably shallow depth of field depending on focal length and focus distance.

True, but not as shallow as having the lens wide open. And you have more light than F16...
It's nothing more than a sensible compromise, and still a useful point of reference for anyone starting out.

Although f5.6 and stay there is probably a better quote as the standard entry level camera is apsc.
Or... f4 for m4/3 or wide f2.8 for 1".