Patio Drainage
 

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[Closed] Patio Drainage

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Could do with some advice - have started a new patio. And had planned to insert two drainage channels - draining into the outlet that the guttering drains into.

Having started - I don't think this can be done - the soil stack isn't buried far below the surface, and if my channel drain ran over this (as the lowest point in the system) it would mean the start of the gutter run would be too high (because of the DPC).

So my thoughts now are to run a channel down the wall on the left hand side of the pic (party wall) OR perpendicular to this wall (running between the house & the party wall). Outlet would have to be to a soak-away.

Can anyone advise what my best course of action would be? Im reasonably confident with most DIY tasks - but want to get this right as I know what a PITA to rectify it would be if the drainage was not done properly.


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 1:32 pm
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I wouldnt put a soakaway in as it's all too close to the house. For that amount of water (sod all) you could lay a flat channel of 100mm depth. That looks to me as tho it would cross over the foul sewer but I may be mistaken. I'd mitre the channel out and around where the soil pipe comes down and replace the old clay gulley with something more modern to form a trap. The rain water could always discharge straight in to the channel, but you will need a trap of some sort.


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 3:06 pm
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Cheers Wrighty. Re: the soak away, I was going to place it behind where the photo was taken from (flowerbed / lawn)  - to take it 5m from the house. Given the small amount of area being drained I thought it should be ok.


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 3:29 pm
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Can't you drain it to the lawn, or does the level increase that way?


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 5:06 pm
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“Can’t you drain it to the lawn, or does the level increase that way?”

Do you mean surface drainage / run off to the lawn?

its probably possible, but quite problematic cos I’ve got a patio area and a pathway (2nd pic) so I’d have all sorts of run’s to consider to get the water to run towards one area and then towards the lawn / flowerbeds.


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 5:12 pm
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In that case how about using permeable paving for all/part of it? What were you going to lay anyway?


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 5:47 pm
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Permeable paving is ok if the ground will take water. I don't like soakaways unless youve got properly porous ground. As I said earlier tho it' not going to create huge run off but my preferred option would be to get it in to a drain.


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 6:50 pm
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re:putting it down the foul. Are you even on combined drainage?

What soil are you on? You might have to look at more that a rubble filled hole as a soakaway if your ground is not permeable enough.


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 8:27 pm
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I was planning on draining the surface water into the pot the guttering drains into. Whether this goes into the foul system or not I don’t know - it’s a Victorian house, so it’s possible

new paving was going to be sandstone, with pointed joints. So impermeable?

dont know the soil type - don’t think it’s clay. Not had an issue with flooding on the current patio (diamond pavers, just laid on soil, so semi permeable?


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 9:14 pm
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Most probably combined system.  Does the gulley branch in to the foul run? Us what I first suggested possible? You can adapt a new plastic gulley quite easily to accept a standard channel in to either side.


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 9:18 pm
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Hi chap,I'd go with what you said above last,just start yr paviors at the rear of house(under window),then sleight fall toward downpipe pot that takes the water from roof/gutter,again 2nd pic,sleight fall from furthest point and run toward downpipe pot,

<span style="font-size: 0.8rem;">I'm laying said slabs at work at present,as long as you put fall toward outlet water will find its way there no problem,any other will run off slabs.</span>


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 9:37 pm
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Thanks trap6 - so don’t bother with any channel drainage - just run the fall away from the house - and towards to pot? That seems like it could work. Perhaps I was trying to over engineer it?


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 9:43 pm
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the square hopper will possibly be sat on a trap if it a combined system If you are determined to use the  drain dig down the side of the hopper to see what youve got ,as above get new plastic hopper cut it a bit shorter at bottom to allow for falls and work away from it. maintain a good seal if you do . To keep DPC integrity, lay slabs to within 50 mm of wall fill gap with pea gravel or use path edgings to same effect. Possible overthinking but its what i do .. trying to build falls into paved areas that are flat.. into gullies that are full of crap!! Living the dream:)


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 9:54 pm
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How can you run it away from the house when the gulley is against the house? Anyhoo I'd be sorting that 45 junction out that seems to have been bodged up with a bag on the run end first.

I know how I'd do the channel and it was as suggested. Up to you which you choose.


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 9:58 pm
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And as a final not do not skip those diamond check blue pavers that are currently down. You can most certainly sell them.


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 10:01 pm
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I'm not sure of the older type houses,but we as a rule lay 150mm below damp course,10mm from wall as your muck(mortar)joint will butt up against house,shingle as jag61 has said for aesthetics,remember as long as you've got fall No water will penetrate there as the muck will stop any ingress,be liberal with your fall,I'm guessing from window to left of door too gully pot is roughly 3.5m so yr fall wants to be minimum50/60mm,as said above there's lots of different types of traps/lids/covers for yr downpipe outlet,remember yr falling away from the house.

Wright's,what I mean too say is run from far window down too gully then off of slab,from the left side I'd fall from wall in same direction away from house,so basically looking at pic 1,window being north,run everything south,(mm,does that make much sense??)


 
Posted : 03/04/2018 10:06 pm

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