[Closed] Painting kitchen cupboards...

Plastikote spray paint is excellent and comes in a wide range of colours. I did some melamine wardrobe doors - 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of gloss and for added optional protection 2 coats of clearcoat. 30 minutes between each coat, you should get a kitchen done in a morning.
Not the cheapest mind you, but the result was surprisingly professional!

I used the cupboard paint and although it's not awful it does chip fairly easily. Went on well and gives a decwnt finish if you prepare the doors well first. Mine was a quick fix though, wouldn't want it for ever.

6 coats of paint ? sod that !! I would live with the pine and new door handles

You need to prepare them really well first. Give it a good washing down with sugar soap and don't miss any bits. It's a kitchen so they'll be full of grease. Then sand it all down with fine grade sand paper.
If you skimp on these two parts then you may as well not bother.
You don't need to limit yourself to the likes of Ronseal Cupboard paint as you buy something like Dulux Super Grip Primer and then your choice of a good Eggshell finish in whatever colour you want. Should last you years, done right.

My wife does Shabby chic furniture and was recently asked to do a kitchen.

As mentioned above, sugar soap to get the grease and dirt off and then a good sand before priming.

She used Farrow & Ball paint at the customers request, the eggshell finish was really good. (worth leaving a few days if you can as it seems to be a bit tacky afterwards for a few days - easy to chip)

She also painted around the corner of the shut lines to reduce the chance of chipping.

It can look really good if you take the time, time will tell how durable it is!

At last,something I actually know a bit about on here so I don't have to make it up as usual.
Painted dozens of kitchens and also paint all this guy's stuff - kitchens,bedrooms and bathrooms http://matthewstevensjoinery.co.uk/kitchens/

Forget 'cupboard paint' stick with Eggshell as previously mentioned.
If you're going over pine my advice would be ;

Wipe cupboards down using ESP Primer,this gives the paint a chemical bond to stick to.Works really well,I've been back to kitchens I painted 8/9 years ago and it hasn't chipped or peeled at all.
Now straight on with the Eggshell.3 coats for a nice finish,lightly sanding inbetween.I prefer Farrow & Ball ( used to be terrible paint but the water based eggshell is fantastic ), it's quick drying and very low odour.
You could leave it at that but I finish the kitchens with a water based laquer from Morrells,you chose the amount of sheen you want.
Apply the paint with mohair covered foam mini rollers,they don't last long so you'll need at least 2 for a kitchen
This is gold dust,I should be charging for this 😀

I'm two weeks into painting our cupboards from dark wood to cream. Using Crown cupboard paint. Not having enough room to lay many doors down at once us a means it's a slow process. The finish looks good if yiu use a mini foam roller but its 4 coats for the outside and 3 for the inside. Used sugar soap then a light sand. The paint is very easy to damage for a few days but seams fairly tough aftet that but only time will tell. I may use lacquer if it proves to easy to damage.

As others have said preparation is the key. Also lots of thin coats are better than a few thick ones. A light sanding between coats may be needed but you have to keep an eye out and feel to see if and dust e.t.c has settled during drying. Thin coats dry quicker so it doe not take that much longer and the difference in finish is between bodge job and pro.

Supurb advice guys cheers! some real cupboard paint expertise on here!

8)

@sausagefingers some of those kitchens are supurb! love the blue island kitchen.

also where do you reccomend best place to buy the ESP primer, farrow and bell paint, and mohair mini rollers. DIY sheds selection is terrible when I was looking earlier.

@chorlton sugar soap added to the list!

@cheers_drive i'm hoping it won't take more than a weekend 😆 Probably over optimistic of me though!

@sausagefingers - Some fantastic looking stuff on your site there. Really like the overall design and little details.

Here's what I always do.
I prepare by using those wet n dry sanding pads dipped in a mild sugarsoap solution, I find the flat Bosch sanding pads the best, wipe of residue and allow to dry.
Cupboard paints are shite as stated above, my favourite primer is Blackfriars problem solving primer. Also stated above is Farrow and Ball eggshell which beats any other water based coating hands down, if I get all shabby chic and distress the surface then i finish with a dead flat water based varnish like J H Ratcliff or polyvine.

You may come across a miracle paint called Annie Sloans chalk paint while searching the web........don't.

A weekend?! Bloody good luck with that 😆

Buy your stuff from a decorators merchant, it'll be cheaper and better quality.
Just to reiterate that's not my website, I just do the painting for him
Also, even when the paint feels dry it will need quite a bit longer to cure properly.
Good luck and gets some pics up

[url= http://www.duluxdecoratorcentre.co.uk/servlet/ProductHandler?code=DDC10317 ]Dulux trade Diamond Eggshell FTW![/url] Avoid F&B oil based like the plague. If you've got a F&B colour in mind I might be able to get the Dulux mixing code...

Cheers,
Jamie

Had our kitchen units painted twice now - once when new and a repaint about 6 years ago.
Repaint was done using F&B eggshell (no top lacquer as we like them matt) and still looks great. That's in a family of 5 with 1 x dog.

@sausage fingers, I've just ordered some estate eggshell in pitch black. Was considering off black too. Any thoughts on best finish 256 vs 57 farrow and bell
[IMG] [/IMG]

Also they recommend dark tones undercoat, do you think this or ESP, which im finding hard to buy locally.

To be honest you won't see much difference between the two shades once on the cupboards.I've just done a kitchen in off black and it's one of my favourites but I did find it was a bugger for drying which I put down to a lot of pigment in the paint.
The ESP was purely to give the paint a key and to be honest I wouldn't paint a kitchen without it.Whereabouts are you? If you're local I don't mind nipping round and lending you some.Eggshell is perfectly fine to be used as an undercoat so don't buy any extra paint just give it a coat of the black for u/c.

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That one is off black with a 40% sheen laquer.To be honest it looked fine without the laquer but the customer insisted on it.Eggshell is very hard wearing so I wouldn't bother with the laquer if it was my own kitchen.

All the best but forget doing it over a weekend,give yourself at least a day and half per coat after prep

Cheers! I'm in Manchester so probably too far from you. 🙁

Looking at that pic above (Stunning btw) i'm also tempted by the white colour too 😀

Which white is generally the best finish?

http://www.farrow-ball.com/colours/paint/fcp-category/list

That ESP routine sounds too easy though, ESP then eggshell as the U/c, then normal coats on top, can't wait to crack on with it.

Heres the sides of the cupboard, melamine?

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insides

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cupboard doors with the retro handles!

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ps. will this ESP do?

http://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/esp-easy-surface-prep/

Righto,you're not too far.
I can meet up with you and lend you my stuff,I'm in Sunny Burnley.
ESP is perfect for those units,no need for sanding
I'll have a look in my van but I should have enough for what you need.
I'm on the lash tomorrow so if we can sort it out early,all the better 😀

The kitchen we did had those same handles OP.

They will need a little filler where the pins are that help to hold the backing plate on.

Do it first, then you wont be spoiling your lovely finish later!

😕

Sent you a mail Mick

@alibongo, handles are now off and much drilling has commenced for new handles! Little pins everywhere 😆

*bookmarks thread*

*me too*

Old handles are off

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New handles fitted

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and HUGE thanks to sausagefingers for meeting me early on a drizzly Saturday morning. ESP, mohair rollers, roller, tray and selection of papers. Huge wealth of knowledge and top chap too, really appreciate it 😀

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Chose the Slipper Satin in the end, looked at a lot of white kitchens and liked the off white.

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ESP went on well

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and got the undercoat done, which covered fantastic, although very white and not very slipper satin, but i'm guessing the next few coats will bring the proper off white colour out, along with the drying.

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This colour compliments your tiles better than black would have done,

Are you going to paint the insides of the doors?

You have my kitchen! . I have those doors , handles and tiles- and quite like that painted finish 🙂

Or do what the pros do. Find a local spray finisher and get him to do a proper job. Mine charges me around £1.50 sq ft. I have to get the doors to him in a prepped state though.

You will get a perfect finish and proper hard wearing paint.

You will also avoid trashing you cupboard doors and getting everything covered in paint (and pissing off your beloved)

restless - Member
This colour compliments your tiles better than black would have done,

Are you going to paint the insides of the doors?

wasn't going to at first, but think it will give it the finished look.

You have my kitchen! . I have those doors , handles and tiles- and quite like that painted finish

cheers! how old is your kitchen? This came with the house and I always thought it was circa 2003 😆

2nd coat, eggshell finish looking better, pretty impressive paint

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Looks a good job.

£12 for pack of x5 from Wickes, really add that new kitchen soft close door action 😆

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I love those soft close thingies, must get some for when I paint my kitchen cupboard doors very soon. Just got to find some of that ESP stuff - it does work on melamine doors doesn't it?

Blimey - we've got the same kitchen, but ours looks to be in a darker shade.

I have considered doing this, but wasn't sure how modern handles would look on an older style door. Looks very nice though so far.

Interesting that with the right primer you don't need to sand.

Did you paint the doors with them in place? Or removed?

@ lady gresley

The sides of my cabinets are melamine I think, really smooth surface with a fake effect wood plastic coating. ESP is perfect for this, it lets you paint on glass too
http://www.owatrol.com/index.php?langue=en&page=produits-esp

@ stumpy have you got the same hob hood too? Thats the bit I wasnt sure about painting white, but it looks pretty good.

Painted doors in situ, less faff, can dry all round too without propping up, and only build up of paint is at the base of door pattern which can easily be brushed out. Reckon flat they'd be more build up, in grooves. Sausagefingers who paints these regular leaves in situ too.

cruzcampo - Member
@ stumpy have you got the same hob hood too? Thats the bit I wasnt sure about painting white, but it looks pretty good.

If not the same, it looks bloody similar (from memory). I'll be digging this thread out this evening when i get home & having a look. Although I won't be showing it to her indoors until I've assessed how much work it will entail as we want to replace the kitchen in the next year or so. It would only be an interim spruce-up so don't want to do it, if it's too much work.

Not sure how I've missed these updates,some really good progress there Steve.
Looks like a nice finish on the paint,I think you'll get a lot of job satisfaction out of it when completed.Those soft close hinges are a nice touch.
Keep the pics coming,for the cost it's going to look very good indeed

Wow you're motoring along. I've been doing mine for 4 weeks almost and I'm not even working at the moment. I think I'm paying for using cupboard paint which needs 4 coats, the wood was a lot darker than yours thoughthink I'll get some soft close thingies too.

cruzcampo - Member
@ stumpy have you got the same hob hood too? Thats the bit I wasnt sure about painting white, but it looks pretty good.
If not the same, it looks bloody similar (from memory). I'll be digging this thread out this evening when i get home & having a look. Although I won't be showing it to her indoors until I've assessed how much work it will entail as we want to replace the kitchen in the next year or so. It would only be an interim spruce-up so don't want to do it, if it's too much work.

I've put a few handles on to assess finished look, and I don't think i'll want a new kitchen once its had the next coat, its looking pretty nice! 😯 The missus gives it the thumbs up too 😆

sausagefingers - Member
Not sure how I've missed these updates,some really good progress there Steve.
Looks like a nice finish on the paint,I think you'll get a lot of job satisfaction out of it when completed.Those soft close hinges are a nice touch.
Keep the pics coming,for the cost it's going to look very good indeed

Huge job satisfaction I reckon! Decorating is one of those things I always put off, but i'm quite enjoying this now i'm into it, helped by the fact its raining all the time and the trails now = gravy 😆

That ESP stuff is like liquid gold! 8)

cheers_drive - Member
Wow you're motoring along. I've been doing mine for 4 weeks almost and I'm not even working at the moment. I think I'm paying for using cupboard paint which needs 4 coats, the wood was a lot darker than yours thoughthink I'll get some soft close thingies too.

The best part of it is not being able to cook on the day i've painted so last weekend was cold buffet style, far too much of it! Going to finish it off this Saturday hopefully

Took a pic of our kitchen this evening, cruzcampo.

It's not exactly the same, but it is to all intents and purposes. Same handles. Dunno how old the kitchen is; it was in when we moved in just under 3 yrs ago.
We think that the previous owner has replaced the tiles and worktops to spruce it up a bit...

Anyway - here's a pic:

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Cheers stumpy01! Looks identical, just different size cupboards/drawers tailored to a different space, same pattern on the hob etc. Reckon that would look supurb with a paintjob. Once I put final pics up this weekend see what you reckon 😆

Cool, pics would be good to see.

One difference I have noticed that could be a bit of a ball-ache is that the plinth above our cupboards has a square cut detail in it, almost like castellation around the whole thing. That might be a pain to get painted smoothly. I wonder how much it would cost to replace it with a less twiddly version like you have?

The farrow eggshell is really nice to work with and applied thinly on that top run shouldn't pose a problem. I've got a detailed spindle area that I didn't think would paint well, but looks fantastic.

@sausagefingers would the ESP and eggshell take so well on fresh MDF? Got a few ideas for making bespoke storage / display units that i'd want to paint but never had a great finish on fresh MDF without loads of work in the past. Wash with ESP, primer and top coat in eggshell sounds easy.

stumpy - it shouldn't be too expensive.

I was going to ask whether anyone doing / planning this had costed jusr replacing the doors instead? I've put a couple of kitchens in to houses I owned over the years and they were both standard carcasses with only the doors and trims differing. Just asking in the interests of ease and cost.

TooTall - Member
stumpy - it shouldn't be too expensive.

Yeah, I think I will cost up new handles, plinth, cost of paint, rollers etc. over the weekend. Don't mind spending a bit, but if it's looking like it's gonna be too expensive then I'd rather put the cost towards the new kitchen and keep this one as it is for another year or so....

I looked at new doors in our last place but it was a very old kitchen and none of the doors were a standard size. Probably could have been done, but I don't think it would have been cheap. We moved out before getting round to doing anyhing with it.

We've got painted & bare ply in our kitchen - the paint is F&B James White, and it is surprisingly resilient to kids' jammy fingers etc. which I was worried about, especially as we've got no handles...

just need to do the wall tiles, skirting, sort out the light fixtures under the shelves and box in the extractor and then it'll be done - and I can move on to the rest of the house 🙁 . It's taking forever - house projects with two toddlers seem to go slow, and this place was/is a state. we had no kitchen at all from July-early oct!

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@ thomsonru84 - I've never used ESP on bare MDF.It's quite expensive stuff and with the MDF being so porous it would just eat it up.
You can just use an acrylic primer which I've never had any problems with in the past or you could try a sanding sealer.Both will need a good sanding down before the eggshell goes on but will give you a good finish.
Obviously it's all down to how you apply the paint,if you just larrup it on with a brush then you're going to struggle.Get a couple of mini rollers,just use a brush for cutting in and take your time and you should be fine.Should be .. 😀

We've got painted & bare ply in our kitchen - the paint is F&B James White, and it is surprisingly resilient to kids' jammy fingers etc. which I was worried about, especially as we've got no handles...

james white was the other colour I was considering, I think it mentioned there is a slight green hue in it, so great for spaces leading to gardens etc. Looks a great colour in your kitchen so far! Is that a pre packed kitchen or all hand made then?

I won't be finished the kitchen until mid next week but the utility is done. It doesn't show on the photo but the woodgrain shows through really nicely.
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All these people painting routed doors white makes me wonder if my kitchen in the flat is back in fashion:

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note: duct now replaced with an aluminium, and glass shelves in place and tiles up to the extractor before I rented it.

Kitchen was a horrible lay out when I moved in with a cheap oven and hob and horrible worktops and stained sink. It's amazing how much nicer you can make it look though on a budget.

I took all the cupboards down an base units out and moved them around, put the oven the other side instead of next to the door, fitted a 1 1/2 bowl sink and fitted new worktops in a U shape (did the joints properly - my first time) and made all the shelving out of cheap plain white doors I picked up from B&Q for 50p each and glass shelves from ikea.

Very satisfying to do it for a fraction of the cost of a new kitchen.

Not back in fashion just a lot of people who have good quality kitchens that are really dated so are painting them to update them a bit.

I won't be finished the kitchen until mid next week but the utility is done. It doesn't show on the photo but the woodgrain shows through really nicely.

what an improvement! I think theres a mass of STW'ers with pine retro handled kitchens 😆 Great handles you've chose too. What cupboard paint is that then?

Is that frog tape youve used too on the edge of wall? I've got the yellow stuff and its 100% paint proof claim has held true, compared to masking tape not a drop has got through.

Cheers. It's Crown champagne cupboard paint, the kitchen and utility will need over 5 time by the time I'm finished. Handles off of eBay. Total cost with paint, handles, and soft closes will be £150.
It is frog tape, I normally don't mask when painting walls but needed to hear especially as some joins are between panels I don't want to paint. I've used normal masking tape in some places and the frog stuff does appear better, so it should at the price!

Final coat tis done! Left to do spray the cooker handles silver, push the washer back, replace the gold tap with chrome.

Before

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After

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No way! Looks great!

Another thing to add to the to-do list....!

Cheers for the update pic.

Thanks Stumpy 🙂

Any DIY plumbers on here?

Want to fit this

http://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-fresco-mono-mixer-kitchen-tap-chrome/21923?_requestid=336419

[img] http://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image/ae235?$p$&layer=0&size=281,281&layer=1&size=281,281&src=ae235/21923_A1 [/img]
To replace this knackered old leaking mixer

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What tools would I need?

The easy way to do this is to get some flexible fittings and then use these to couple up the new taps with a short length of pipe in the bottom.

You can also get flexible fittings with stop valves on which can be helpful in emergency or when changing things around.

I used some speedfit ones and they have been fine.

(The other alternative is to use copper pipe all the way to the tap, this can be a little tricky as the pipe needs to be exactly right!)

Tools required pipe cutter (hacksaw) wire wool for cleaning edge and flexible fittings x2

That looks brilliant Cruzcampo.
I finally finished mine today, very happy with the results but I have reservations about the toughness of the finish after damaging a couple of doors fitting them. It takes 2 weeks to fully harden so fingers crossed.
Oh and after praising Frog tape it ripped half the paint of the wall when removing it. Luckily the previous owners had left the tin of paint.
Before:
[url= http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3723/10614112944_f853abee63_b.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3723/10614112944_f853abee63_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/rjohnson76/10614112944/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/rjohnson76/ ]Cheers Drive[/url], on Flickr
After
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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/rjohnson76/10692272283/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/rjohnson76/ ]Cheers Drive[/url], on Flickr
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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/rjohnson76/10692053904/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/rjohnson76/ ]Cheers Drive[/url], on Flickr

Close up of finish
[url= http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7311/10692050766_ee3386af66_b.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7311/10692050766_ee3386af66_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/rjohnson76/10692050766/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/rjohnson76/ ]Cheers Drive[/url], on Flickr

@alibongo cheers for tap advice, will give it a bash 8)

@cheers drive, cracking transformation!

frog tape worked a treat here, particularly on the kick board, left a perfect clean line on the wooden floor where the two met. Although on the walls the roller went over end of the frog tape so had to touch up with emulsion LOL!

Sausagefingers was saying no need for lacquer with my F+B paint, but it does feel soft, although its only been a few days, so i'll give it 2 weeks like yours and then debate whether to use some Morrels lacquer ❓

Hi guys.

Great looking cupboards I'm looking to do the same myself. Cheers drive those cupboards look fantastic I was looking for the same colour on the same wood. It will be my first time tackling such a thing.

Could you advise me what I need, what is best and what time time frame for everything.

Thank u 🙂

Thought i'd tag this onto my Kitchen makeover thread, as this room adjoins at a right angle. A year later finally got round to the dining room. Bad weather, the only time I attempt DIY 😆

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Skirting boards need doing and got a couple of pics to hang yet just deciding which walls.

Sorry for opening up an old thread, but just wanted some advice from someone who's used esp. I'm planning on redoing my kitchen cupboards which is all melamine. Before I did this and potentially made a mess of the whole thing, I decided to try esp out on a cheap shoe rack I had (also melamine). I followed the instructions for the esp, and painted it with farrow and ball eggshell. The first coat went on ok at first, but after a minute or so, it looked like it was pulling away from the melamine. It was sort of creating little beads of paint rather than a smooth coat. I let it dry, and applied another coat, the second one went on much better. Now however, after a week, you can still scrape the paint off with your finger nail. It's like the paint is soft still. Any ideas what I've done wrong? Any help would be appreciated as I'd like to start with my kitchen, but I'm worried that it will all scratch off as soon as I'm done.

Evening Teegs, could it be you've got a bad batch of Farrow and Ball? I had to return my first tin to Homebase due to gloop at bottom of tin which wouldn't mix and colour didn't dry right. Second tin Homebase put in the mixing machine to shake all up as a further safeguard, and it was fine when opening.

My ESP application, I gave the cabinets a quick clean, with cloth and sugar soap, mainly to break into any surface grease etc, then literally brushed the ESP on after giving it a good shake, see page 1 of this thread for pics.

After the ESP had dried cracked on with the actual painting. I found the rollers with F+B left little bubbles in places, so preffered to paint it all by brush. Some large areas I used roller to cover then brushed out.

A year on the kitchen cupboards are still looking great no chips or marks.