[Closed] Open Canoe

You can't burst foam blocks, although air bags look neater and being able to remove or deflate them might be handy occasionally. Get them big enough to fill the ends of the boat without encroaching too much on the seats.

No idea about paddle length, sorry. Bear in mind if paddling in shallow water you'll be punting off the bottom and rocks quite  bit, so don't get a fancy expensive wooden one to begin with. May be worth sticking with a cheap aluminium handle/plastic blade until you're sure what length works for you.

Throw line will be useful but perhaps wait till after your course, as the instructors will be able to advise you on how to use it and what length to get. Make sure you have a decent serrated stainless knife or line cutter - for cutting throw lines and fishing line if you or anyone else gets tangled.

Definitely get knee pads. The cheap plumbers/electricians ones from Screwfix are pretty effective.

Edit - already covered.

Do a search on the web for basic open boat outfitting. This will give you some good ideas.

I would recommend a decent loop through the bow and stern using 10mm or 11mm static line, with a painter of floating line slightly longer than the length of the boat attached at the bow as a minimum.  The bow and stern loops should be snug enough that you can't get your hand behind it. Think 3 times, measure twice, drill once....

Sometimes I put nylon tape "swim tails" on the loops too, front and rear. For river use I supplement the painter with a throwbag pre-clipped to the stern loop, and sometimes one on the bow too. The bag is under elastics and, when pulled, comes free and deploys line, floating, obvs.

I always carry and extra throwline and a rescue knife. I use diving style knife, mounted on the left hand shoulder strap of my buoyancy aid, just above my chest. I can reach it with either hand, although right is easiest. Beware of accidentally losing the knife. Mine has a back-up retainer made from short elastic leash and a headset spacer, looped over the sheath. Ping off the spacer, press the crappy button, withdraw the knife. I have never had to use it in anger, but it is always there.

I would go with blocks for buoyancy, especially if you have kids. There are good online guides to making your own if you want to save a bit of cash.

We have an extra seat fitted in both of our Venture Rangers. They are fitted in the centre and give an alternative position for paddling, depending on load, conditions and passengers.

Bear in mind everything you add, adds weight.

Get a cheapy pop-up canoe sail from ebay. When conditions are "just right" they are amazing. Conditions are not often "just right" though.

Don't forget you need a beard before being allowed on the water...

Trolley

Dry bag / barrel

Kneeling thwart for solo

Mat rather than knee pads as they tend to slip

58" paddle - grey owl scout or voyageur

Some bits and bobs on my website -  http://www.unsponsored.co.uk/press/?s=canoe+outfitting

Unsponsored has it 🙂

As above

- blocks do not puncture, but do add a few kilo's. Whatever you use, make sure they and the end loops are over secure and connected through hull. If ever you do need them, you'll be glad you did 🙂

- mats often work better than knee pads. Cheap = kids ABC jigsaw mats glued in, expensive = speak to Dave at Endless River

- I like full lacing, I use it for quickly securing kit. Paracord and fish tank tubing works well.

- a throw line is good on moving water, a bag with swim line(s) in more useful on flat and whitewater. 25m of line, you don't want to run out if swimming, and great for tarps etc.

- barrells are ok, but I prefer drybags (Alpkit ftw) inside big old bags to stop rubbing and allow tie in.

- if you don't know how to use a ww BA with harness, don't buy one. A comfy touring one with pockets is ace.

- paddles, depends on blade length and your body/arm/canoe seat height ratio. Wait till Glenmore, they will have all the models you can think of to try out and size.

TbF, you can use the canoe 'as is', and DaveR at Glenmore can give great advice on outfitting - eg I find venture seats need a bit of moving/dropping to my preference.

Enjoy 🙂

I also forgot...

Painter - one on each end, just over length of the boat for me, tied to end loop.

I've bungee on bouyancy blocks to shove stuff under, and white water pin kit in ancient bum bag clipped to throw line on there too. I can grab it one handed, and run off for rescue in seconds, and it's always nearest my seat on WW. That may be OTT on easy stuff.

In my BA is fixed knife, (LOUD) whistle, a long sling, two 1m lengths of accessory cord, smidge and probably the remains of a cheese sandwich/8mth old mars bar...

The slings and cord are for deep water entry (aka 'fat straps' (ahem), rafting up etc.

I'm in habit of always having first aid kit, my 'big' one has survival blanket and bag, hat and gloves.

As ever, how to avoid issues, use/bodge as needed is more important than the kit. I've honed mine down so much over the years, I now know what works for me.

Be aware that in UK/SoTP we over do kit and fit out. Scandinavia and N America are much less focussed on such things it seems...the canoe lady in Estonia two days ago clearly was not wearing a ww BA or knife. I could tell as she was wearing nothing.

Cheers guys

New hobby = lots of hopping which is nice.

I've ordered air bags rather than blocks for now, will see how long they last.

Planning to fit end loops this afternoon, quite apprehensive about drilling holes but will take my time and see how I get on

Nice touring PFD on order and will stick with cheapo paddle until I am sure what I want.

Thanks again!