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From an earlier post.
"DPF regens will cause some diesel to enter the oil and dilute it... under normal conditions..."
I am quoting it out of context of that post. But its a really good point - with modern diesels, the Regen mode for the DPF puts more fuel into the cylinders , and inevitably some passes the rings and gets into the sump, diluting the oil. Short journeys can exacerbated this, and the need for the control system to regen the DPF repeat itself if the regen cycle is interrupted worsens it too.
DPF regens will cause some diesel to enter the oil and dilute it… under normal conditions…
Only some implementations, I think. To deliver hydrocarbons to the catalyst that heats up and burns off the soot IIRC some cars inject fuel into the exhaust stroke, and others have a fifth injector in the exhaust manifold. The former option is what can end up diluting the diesel because fuel is going straight into a cold(er) cylinder and not being burned, but in the latter option the extra fuel never goes near a cylinder.
However that information is only anecdotal so happy to be corrected.
This thread just goes to show what a bodge internal combustion is. I can't want for all cars to be EVs 🙂
Youre completely correct.
What I don't know is which vehicles have the extra manifold injector. My suspicion of Ford is that they are cheapskates so will do it via the cheap option = squirt into the cylinders - as a bit of software is cheaper than an extra injector, wires and pipes)
What I don’t know is which vehicles have the extra manifold injector.
A quick browse through Google results suggests it's Toyota, but also Dacia and Nissan (so Renault) which surprises me because Nissan are the biggest cheapskates I've ever had to deal with.
Mazda inject it in the exhaust stroke in the cylinder, hence why some will get into the oil. Their dipstick has two dots for min and max oil levels, and an X further up to show the max level that dilution could hit before it became a problem. It'll also throw up a dash warning apparently if it gets too diluted, but i wasn't seen one despite the huge amount of oil/diesel that came out
and shouldn’t be.
Perhaps, perhaps not.
The simplistic view is that modern synthetic oil just doesn't degrade like old mineral oils did. In ideal conditions the oil will last a LONG time.
Cars are built better these days, it's not the 80's anymore, you're not on the forecourt of Delboy's motors weighing up the relative merits of the 100k escort on +20 shells Vs the low mileage allegro on it's original bottom end. It might not be sensible on a turbocharged, wet belt, diesel, but it's not a death knell if all it's done is motorway miles and the bores don't pass oil/diesel.
On the other hand if you've thrashed it from cold every morning doing journeys you really should have walked/cycled. Then just like the 80's your car is probably getting knackered whatever you do with the oil.
In my experience, and something worth noting, when you embark on your DIY car mechanics journey with a limited selection of tools, nothing ever fits perfectly. There’ll be 10 spanners in the box passed down several generations that almost, kinda fit. 4 hours later you’ll have the molgrips out.
The tools you have available to you make a big difference.
I think the correct way to think about it is: £50 on parts AND £50 on tools is better than £100 at the garage, because then next time it's £50.
Same with bike jobs, it's probably cheaper to get your LBS to change a cassette and chain than it is to buy a chain whip, lockring tool, and chain splitter. But if you buy them once you can do it on all your bikes forevermore.
My suspicion of Ford is that they are cheapskates so will do it via the cheap option = squirt into the cylinders
Fords, at least the transits, have the 5th "injector". They can clog and be the root cause of dpf blockages (no active-regens).
Another thing to consider is that there's not that much labour in an oil change, and it's the labour you pay for at the garage and what you can do for free. Some jobs are labour intensive but not that much for parts. Like that time I changed the camshaft position sensor on the Passat. According to the procedure you're meant to remove the timing belt which means refitting and re-setting everything back up, but I managed to loosen it off to reveal the sensor just enough to change it in 10 mins.
On the other hand, when the inlet manifold needed changing on the Merc I took one look at where it was situated and how much stuff was in the way and had the garage do it. The warranty claim really helped that decision mind.
Fords, at least the transits, have the 5th “injector”. They can clog and be the root cause of dpf blockages (no active-regens).
Only the 2.2.
Ecoblue engine relies on the normal injectors.
If you do DIY, don't cross thread the sump plug and use the correct torque setting when tightening 🙂