Oil and filter change reccomendations.

I would stick with a regular garage, rather than chance any of those. There's a reason they're cheaper.

Any other local independant ? Or DIY

Do yourself?

Or ask your guy, he’ll know ones that aren’t shit.

I tend to avoid kwick fit and the like because some of them (not all) tend to drain oil from the dip stick hole with a pump. Depending on sump geometry this can be OK but most of the time leaves bad oil and debris at the bottom of the sump if the technician does not get the tube all the way to the lowest part. (fine for a quick change mind if that's your thing)

I prefer the old fashioned (and normal) way of draining from the plug then you can be sure all the old oil and crap is out.

Also if your car requires a specific grade of oil, I would prefer to use an indy specialist who knows exactly what oil to put in. Alot of places like Halfords and kwick fit buy the oil in huge drums and will often fill with alternative (they are not going to hold stock of every single oil spec).

Not really helpful I know

Thanks for the replies. No suitable place to DIY plus not my idea of fun in this weather. I did see a guy in the local Tesco car park though with his car on ramps and tools scattered all over the floor....Hmm. Good point about the oil. Its a Skoda Roomy so needs CASTROL EDGE 5W-30 LL or equivalent. But as you say, who knows what actually ends up in it?

I would prefer to use an indy specialist who knows exactly what oil to put in.

This. Some modern engines are very sensitive to the wrong oil spec. Ford Ecoboost for example, the timing belt runs in the oil, and the wrong oil rots the rubber even faster than the right oil.

Just do it wherever you've parked, I DIY mine on the street.
Old washing up bowl, funnel, empty milk bottles and old newspapers is all you need, plus a socket for sump plug and a filter wrench, tools can be had for a fiver.
Mine is a van though so plenty of room underneath. When I had a car I used to park one side on akerb to lift it a wee bit and drain the oil towards the plug end of the sump.
Drain, go and do something else for half an hour while it drips, then return and put new filter in and top up.

I’d pick a decent local indi. Do t trust kwik fit etc.

If you’re anywhere near Bristol I’d recommend Streetwise Automotive as I’ve used them for years and trust them. They tend to be decent enough value and they went out of their way to source the right oil for my car last time.

Another here for “ask your guy who he’d recommend”…

Taking a car in to Kwik-Fit for any kind of service or MOT work is just a recipe for them to find a multitude of things that don’t actually need doing and charge you through the nose for them!

Your oil needs to be VW 504/507 spec I believe… Too much emphasis is put on brands (just like carbon bike frames, there’s only a handful of factories it all comes out of regardless of the plethora of brand names on it)… As long as the oil is to the right spec (the VW 504/507 bit is important, there’s lots of different 5W30 oils out there, some will be in spec, some won’t) then you’re good to go…

Changing yourself can be daunting. The actual process isn’t that difficult, but as with any job on a car you’re only one rusty nut away from a 10hr job and a 3 day wait for parts… That and if you don’t have the tools already, you’re into a few hundred quid for decent socket set, breaker bar, torque wrenches, trolley Jack, axle stands etc… Costs that need justifying when most garages will change the oil for half an hours Labour!

I have done my car with it parked two wheels on the edge of the pavement sometimes, allows enough room to wriggle under to get at the undertray. We now use some home-made ramps out of timber, which work great.

I prefer the old fashioned (and normal) way of draining from the plug then you can be sure all the old oil and crap is out.

Not in Saab 9-3's it isn't! Oil change is 4.5 litres, dry engine refill is over 5 litres!! Regular changes are essential for them.

I tend to avoid kwick fit and the like because some of them (not all) tend to drain oil from the dip stick hole with a pump.

Fine to do on any VW group car, it's how they've been designed and the main dealers will do it this way.

I've always done my at home by extracting it out the dipstick and so far no issues at all at 85k.

just to add my pela pump (sucks oil through the dipstick hole) is one of the best things ive bought for a car.

20 min oil and filter changes on the drive are brilliant!

It's worth checking your local main dealer. Some have fixed price servicing on older models that is reasonably priced.

Changing yourself can be daunting. The actual process isn’t that difficult, but as with any job on a car you’re only one rusty nut away from a 10hr job and a 3 day wait for parts… That and if you don’t have the tools already, you’re into a few hundred quid for decent socket set, breaker bar, torque wrenches, trolley Jack, axle stands etc… Costs that need justifying when most garages will change the oil for half an hours Labour!

If you're using a pump the only tool you need (other than the pump) is a strap wrench for the oil filter. No need to undo any bolts at all

How long's your usual bloke going to be out of action for? Unless you're doing mega-miles I doubt being a month or 2 late will be catastrophic

Yeah, verses makes a good point.

Suck vs pour, I hate the idea of sucking the oil out the top but that doesn't change that usually it's really effective and some cars are designed for it. Is it smart roadsters that don't even have a drain plug? And some cars, the drain plug isn't ideally placed.

OT but, I just fitted a little drain tap thing to the mx5, will make it much quicker and cleaner to drain the oil next time it eats an engine. Just attach a wee hose and let it drain into a bottle (since it's never the main pour that causes mess, it's the little trickle at the end that gets blown about)