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STW hive mind... help me out.
Me, the missus and my youngest (will be 6 at the time) are looking at enjoying the North Coast 500 next year. Most likely during the summer holidays.
We are currently unsure of whether we should hire a motorhome or to do it via a car and hotel/airbnb/bed & breakfasts.
Initially we were all up for the motorhome option, as we rented one this year, did Yorkshire and ended at Ard Rock, it was very enjoyable. But after some initial research it would appear that large chunks of the NC500 cant be accessed by such a vehicle and you have to miss them out.
we did then think about a much smaller motorhome, or rather a campervan. Although i have reservations about this, as i like the room and creature comforts a motorhome brings over a camper (IE an almost proper toilet and shower).
So the other option is to do it via car and book strategic stops along the way. Using local hotels, airbnb's and traditional B&B's. The only drawback with this is it reduces the freedom to come and go as we please. Also from speaking to those who have done it before, some places look like a great area to stop, only to find out there is little there, so you are stuck if you have booked accommodation (whereas in a motorhome, you can just keep on trucking).
So, for those that have done it, what method did you use? Any regrets? What would you do differently next time? Did you go clockwise or anticlockwise? Any top tips?
Thanks in advance!
Motorhome defo. Preferably a nice big one that keeps you away from all the midgies and nasty weather. Don't worry if you're not so good at maneuvering it, all the roads there are nice and wide.
In the unlikely event that you do meet oncoming traffic on a narrow road, don't panic, just remain calm. In fact just remain completely where you are. Leave the reversing to the locals.... after all, they know the roads better than you.
The key advantage of the motorhome is that you have bog and shower on board so you don't need to pay for campsites. They have loads of approved roadside stops marked by signs with white diamonds on top, easy to spot.
Leave the grey water tap on when you drive and find a nice Peat bog to lob the brown waste into every few days. It blends in and the bog roll looks just like flowers from a distance
Check on Google where the last Waitrose is when heading north, so you can be sure of getting enough provisions before heading into the wilderness.
On a similar vein, see if you can get a few jerrycans of diesel stuffed in the garage before you go. Nothing worse than having to pay wilderness premiums for fuel when in Scotland.
Above all remember the motorhomers' mantra: " take everything with you, bring only the valuable stuff back, leave no benefits"
Just thinking the same - HobNob anyone!? 🙂
Forget it. It will be horrible at that time of year: everywhere will be heaving; roads blocked, angry locals, etc.
Either visit it out of season, or use your imagination and visit northern Scotland but avoid the NC500.
When you say there might not be much to do, you do realise you're talking about northern Scotland right? That's the whole point.
X2 on wouldn't bother but if I did I'd at least be using the local amenities rather than being another rolling roadblock.
Don't do it
If you decide on motorhome/ campervan then you are still going to have to pre-book campsites and hence you'll not have that flexibility anyway. The days of being able to just rock up into a lonely, scenic layby are long gone.
It's not what it was.
As above you'll need to precooked everything anyway as it'll be rammed. All the wild parking spots will be full and by July the locals will be proper pissed off.
I'd book bnbs etc that way the driving element will at least be easier.
Or here's a random thought....
Book a week in one area and explore there rather than following the #nc500 #vanlife sheep about.
👍 to thegeneralist, cheered me up no end, especially added to the fact that the bloke next door whose car alarm has being going off overnight for the last few days (and who is sure it’s working fine) has just driven off down the road with the alarm going full tilt.
When you say there might not be much to do, you do realise you’re talking about northern Scotland right? That’s the whole point.
maybe i worded that wrongly, i am aware there is plenty of wilderness. Maybe it should've asked if there are any areas with less to do, rather than exploring castles, caves, waterfalls etc etc.
The days of being able to just rock up into a lonely, scenic layby are long gone.
Are they? how come?
@thegeneralist - i sense some sarcasm in your reply. I take it you are not a fan of people enjoying the NC500? or am i missing something??
Hoo boy.
@thegeneralist – i sense some sarcasm in your reply. I take it you are not a fan of people enjoying the NC500? or am i missing something??
Do you really not know what it's like up there? Especially in the summer when it's busy?
I'd give a big swerve.
Are they? how come?
Pissed off locals have closed many off. As a result there is now a mad dash for the few remaining and they tend to be very busy as soon as it's mid-afternoon. They are also left full of litter and human waste.
The advice of booking into one or two spots and touring from there is really good. Pick somewhere on the west coast and somewhere further further along the north coast.
Are they? how come?
Becuase the NC500 has brought loads of people into the area, many rocking up in campervans so they have "the freedom to come and go as they please."
or am i missing something??
all the stories of people in campervan stopping overnight in inappropriate spots (liek passing places) and generally being unsociable and not respecting locals by doing things like not using proper facilities to empty the canpervan waste, not actually spending any money in the local area on B&Bs or food in local shops / cafes becuase they've a fully stocked campervan, and so on
not saying YOU would do that, but anecdotally it seems a lot of people would and have...
Do you really not know what it’s like up there? Especially in the summer when it’s busy?
I’d give a big swerve.
clearly not. Sounds like a poor life choice on my behalf! Sorry folks!
We visited Scotland a couple of years ago and really enjoyed it, but that was 'out of season'.
I will talk with her indoors as there is a good chance i have got the dates wrong.
So lets assume i am going out of season... can anyone help with that in mind?!
all the stories of people in campervan stopping overnight in inappropriate spots (liek passing places) and generally being unsociable and not respecting locals by doing things like not using proper facilities to empty the canpervan waste, not actually spending any money in the local area on B&Bs or food in local shops / cafes becuase they’ve a fully stocked campervan, and so on
not saying YOU would do that, but anecdotally it seems a lot of people would and have…
aaaaah i see! its all making sense now. 100% not how i would roll, but i know as a dirty foreigner i would be tarred with the same brush.
I didnt realise it had got so out of hand and i can appreciate locals frustrations with it all.
I was going to post something like thegeneralists thing, but as he's done it already I'll be slightly more constructive
So the other option is to do it via car and book strategic stops along the way. Using local hotels, airbnb’s and traditional B&B’s. The only drawback with this is it reduces the freedom to come and go as we please. Also from speaking to those who have done it before, some places look like a great area to stop, only to find out there is little there, so you are stuck if you have booked accommodation
Do this. We did sorta kinda similar last year, as we had a self-catering place in Golspie for a week and did a lot of driving around seeing stuff, including a good chunk of the eastern half of the NC500. Daytime, the driving/scenery etc is obviously spectacular and is the same as you'd do in a campervan without the hassle of a campervan. Nighttime, if you are in somewhere where there's not much, you can cook yourself a meal (with stuff you've bought from local shops) and have a nice night in, like you'd do in a camper, or if you're somewhere where there's a decent pub/restaurant, use it.
The NC500 has become a victim of its own success.
The point that @scotroutes and @thegerneralist are making is that its so busy now in season.
Where as people always visited the rise in folk rattling round the coast in a week has increased traffic disportionally as everyone wants to do the same thing and take the same picture etc. Everyone is touring and not staying in one area.
The rise in camper vans and sadly hire vans has really damaged the availability of spots to park. And leads to alot of resentment as locals just see people free loading and causing issues with out putting money back into the local economy. 2 good summers with covid stopping international travel also brought a different demographic of tourists up there that were not the traditional, fell walkers, bird watchers etc...
What is it you want up there? Solitude? Nature or insta bangers?
Excellent response by Alex @thegeneralist I even had to read it aloud to my travelling companion.
I would go with the advice of picking one or maybe two areas in Scotland to stay for the whole time and explore from there. Otherwise it’s just a lot of time travelling, especially with a 6 year old. You’ll never see or do decent things as you’ll be thinking ‘must keep moving’.
apologies to all! I didnt realise it was such a tense subject. I definitely dont see myself as one of 'those' people.
After speaking to my missus, looks like April or May time would be when we do it. Which would be a better time of year?
What is it you want up there? Solitude? Nature or insta bangers?
100% nature. We enjoy exploring and seeing the natural beauties. Waterfalls, gorges, rock formations, woodland etc then historic stuff like castle's etc.
May is usually a good month. Days are longer, temps are up and it's pre-midge (ish). There are also 3 bank holiday weekends next May though so that'll have an impact. May and June are also favoured by the no-kids folk so it's still not exactly quiet.
It sounds like you are trying to do the "right thing" so don't let anyone make you feel bad for asking.
After speaking to my missus, looks like April or May time would be when we do it. Which would be a better time of year?
May, slightly better chance of better weather, and pre-midge season.
Scotland itself is pretty empty. It's just that specific road loop that has attracted far too many people. Definitely go - April/May is great because it's pre-midge - but just stay away from the nc500 crowds.
What Scotroutes said +1
I don't live on the NC500 but I have family and friends who do. It passes through many remote and beautiful ,and fragile areas. The road is not built for large vehicles. The NC500 has not been a blessing for many small businesses both in the tourist trade and in unrelated trades.
It can be done but I'd say book camp sites or use the (very popular) designated parking areas.
https://www.highland.gov.uk/news/article/14590/overnight_short_stay_parking_for_motorhomes_in_designated_highland_council_carparks_to_be_piloted
If you must use a layby remember to leave space for their intended use arrive late and leave early etc(good luck with that)
Don't block access. Near where I live people (not motor homers) blocked access to the cemetery. The resulting anger was deep and long lasting.
Having said all that my impression was that due increased provision of spaces for motorhomes and the return of holidays abroad this year there may have been less pressure. Who knows if people will be holidaying abroad next summer?
looks like April or May time would be when we do it. Which would be a better time of year?
May, June, April, September are my preferred months in scotland
I looked recently and there were certainly more motorhome stopover / airighs popping up. That should relieve some of the pressure. They're not all bookable though. That can be a good thing when it's not too busy as it allows some flexibility. OTOH it also means they can't be relied upon.
Book a week in one area and explore there rather than following the #nc500 #vanlife sheep about.
I'd echo this. Driving it is kinda boring, just like driving anywhere else, and it completely misses the point of being in some of Britain's most remote landscapes. Get out of the car for a week and experience it properly.
Such a shame, can’t imagine heading back up there any time soon but love the North West. If OP is looking for a get away from the crowds I’d try Ardnamuchan, loads to see, good accommodation and fewer people
I may be way off the mark here but it may be worth planning a route near, but not on the nc500 ( I appreciate that won't be strictly possible due to paucity of roads)
My guess is that there are loads of businesses in those areas who are desperate for the custom that has recently migrated onto the nc500 to the detriment if everyone else.
The locals on the nc500 will also be content that you're staying away.
And you'll be content cos you're not stuck in scrums all the time.
Hope you do go and have a great time. It's such an amazing area.
now the dust has settled from my opening post... thanks everyone for the tips.
I now also appreciate the unrest it must cause for the locals and we definitely dont want to be one of those annoying tourists.
We (mainly my other half) are in the early stages of looking at it, so this gives plenty of extra thought with regards to just picking one area or trying to go off the beaten track.
:thumbs up:
🙂
A friend of mine did it last summer (July) with his girlfriend, camping, on motorbikes.
Well, i say they "did it", they didn't. Camped up near Inverness castle after riding up from Birmingham (2 days).
Planning to do it over 5 or 6 days (had multiple stops planned every day). Rode to Applecross i think, then got up in the morning spent a week getting back home instead.
So they did it again this year, in April/May, in the car. With a bigger tent. Had a great time.
edit:- Actually, it wasn't last summer, it was pre covid, so a little while ago.
FWIW it's a couple of years since I was driving those roads in an almost daily basis but it's not all as bad as some can make out. Hopefully, @felltop will see this thread and give some local advice. It's an amazing area and you can still experience the best of it with careful scheduling and a bit of planning.
My advice?
Go back in time & do it when I did in 1978 before it was called anything & the roads were proper quiet, & you had to use local B&B's or camp because there were no motorhomes (the odd Dormobile maybe) & caravans were impractical.
Until you find a Tardis I wouldn't bother. We were up there last April/May but stayed in a cottage near Durness for the week. The roads were pretty rammed, Durness campsite was always chokka block too. What bemused me was the amount of boy racers in sporty cars seemingly trying to get round in record time.
I'd have another week up there but there's no way I'd drive the 'NC500' again.
If OP is looking for a get away from the crowds I’d try Ardnamuchan, loads to see, good accommodation and fewer people
Great call! Ardamurchan peninsular followed by the ferry from Mallaig to Skye. Spot on.
I will second the opinion of hire a nice airBnB and explore the area for a week - far more relaxing and will likely get more out of the week than constantly being on the go.
Last time we were up Applecross way, a convoy of £500 bangernomic/NC500 challenge types had passed through. One of the cars broke down so the owner just abandoned it in a lay-by. A few days later some 50yr old biker crew we spotted torching the thing... The locals were, understandably furious.
AS others have said. Personally I would use the NC500 to know which roads to avoid ( the little roads anyway) Plan a tour with maybe 2 or 3 stopping points to explore properly? the wee road down past Ben Hope for example IMO is a cracker - not on the route. Camper vsan is fine - smaller the better for the driving but again as others have said roadside camping is not really on anymore. A spot I have been visiting for decades that used to have the occasional vehicle on it last time I went 3 years ago had 20 camper vans parked on it.
I too know folk who live on the NC 500 and they tell stories of woe of how its badly affected them.
Go back in time & do it when I did in 1978 before it was called anything & the roads were proper quiet
Or even better cycle the Applecross coast route before they built the road 😊
Stunning area, great welcome from locals, so much to do particularly if you like walks, rides, beaches, hills, history and nature.
As so many are saying, driving 500 miles isn't the best way to see any of Scotland, the NC500 is a proper honeypot.
We stayed in Sheildaig last year for a week, right on the seafront. So nice to be able to 'follow the weather' and either get up early or delay, able to walk to rent a kayak, explored a couple of the high hills, cycled a couple of quiet roads (Torridon to Diabeag being a lovely ride) cycled some proper Torridon single-track, and took a day off with the crowds on Applecross - but went late and had the pass to ourselves at 5pm... Great holiday.
took a day off with the crowds on Applecross – but went late and had the pass to ourselves at 5pm
There is definitely a NC 500 "wave". The roads tend to get busy just after 9am and quieter again around 5pm, but even leaving, say, Ullapool at 10am, most of the tourists will be ahead of you in the wave.
Sheildaig is lovely - I think I had the best ever seafood platter in the pub/restaurant there the other year!
If anyone is thinking of Sheildaig, we stayed here and it was superb.
We really made use of evening walks and short pedals, pub up the road, potter and RT gallery the other direction walking, and countless hours sat watching the sea eagle on its nest from the front garden seat.
http://www.stevecarter.com/minch/Minch.htm
Driving it is kinda boring, just like driving anywhere else, and it completely misses the point of being in some of Britain’s most remote landscapes. Get out of the car for a week and experience it properly.
You say this like it's a universal truth, whereas it's actually your opinion. Shared my many I admit, but still an opinion. I love a road trip, you get to see some nice scenery without having to exert oneself or being exposed to the bloody weather.
Don't forget to say hello to my cousin, she owns the petrol station/store in Laide !
You say this like it’s a universal truth,
It is 🙂
I love a road trip, you get to see some nice scenery without having to exert oneself or being exposed to the bloody weather.
Ugh 🙁
You say this like it’s a universal truth, whereas it’s actually your opinion.
It's my experience. I found driving it to be quite dull and uninspiring, very much in contrast to other times when I've found it to be one of the most awe-inspiring places I've been. Yes, it might be my opinion, but I think spending half of your time sat in a car, while you migrate from one tourist trap to another, just spoils it. You miss out on the best bits.
Alternatively, organise your own version; e.g.
Head up to Oban, take the boat to Barra. Work your way north via ferries and B&Bs to Harris. Stunning beaches on the west side of Berneray & on South Harris.
Tarbert to Uig on Skye. Don't linger; avoid the honey pots, pop over to Elgol and walk in to Camasunary bothy for a picnic and then head south to Armadale & take the boat to Mallaig.
If staying there, take the water taxi to Inverie and spend a night at the pub or stay on the boat and get dropped at Tarbert, walk back to civilisation along the north shore of Loch Morar.
Visit Arisaig, staying at the post office or the hotel, etc.
Head out to Ardnamurchan for the lighthouse and the volcano.
Take the wee boat across from Kilchoan to Tobermory on Mull for a day or three.
Boat back to Oban and head home down through Argyll towards the Clyde boat crossings or A83 towards Lomond..?
I love a road trip, you get to see some nice scenery without having to exert oneself or being exposed to the bloody weather.
I'm going to back him up on this, driving through the Highlands is great.
while you migrate from one tourist trap to another
Here's a tip - stop at the bits that aren't tourist traps.
I love a road trip, you get to see some nice scenery without having to exert oneself or being exposed to the bloody weather.
You are saying this on a mountain bike forum. Exerting oneself in the elements is basically all we have. Along with your political leanings, could you be any more of an outlier? It's beats me why you'd bother to keep on coming back.
You are saying this on a mountain bike forum. Along with your political leanings, could you be any more of an outlier? It’s beats me why you’d bother to keep on coming back.
Well I never said I don't like a bike ride, I just said I love a road trip. It's not a case of car good/bike bad. I know we're all supposed to be in a clearly defined box nowadays, but I live in England so if I were to go up to the highlands I'd leave the bike and go in the car. "Along with your political leanings". Sorry, do we know each other? I wasn't aware I had any. I seem to be a bit of a political magpie and pick bits from all over the spectrum, and can change from week to week as new info is acquired.
Exerting oneself in the elements is basically all we have.
That's a profound statement. What does it mean? Care to elucidate?
* puts tinfoil hat on and peeks above the parapet
Is cycling it in May a good idea? I’ve a loose plan for the end of May. A colleague lives up there and said “there’s one thing Highlanders hate more than motorhomes, and that’s bikes”. I told him I like a challenge!
Route would be clockwise to JoG then south via Kinbrace and Altnaharra
* ducks back down
Cycling remains the best way to do it. You can stop at random, pull over wherever you want, actually see things as you go - and as you'll be eating and drinking your way round, feeding a lot into the local economies.
Cheers. Is it advisable to book campsites for a 1 man tent. I don’t want to be restrained by a timetable but want to stay at a couple of campsites to recharge batteries etc.
but I live in England so if I were to go up to the highlands I’d leave the bike
Surely that's the worst way to do it, freedom of movement in Scotland means your not as restrained as down south, can explore anywhere your handlebars point (within reason and fitness). You get to see a lot more scenery at a more leisurely pace
I imagine you’re right. I bet it’s lovely once you’re up there. I just can’t be arsed cycling up the M6.
My point wasn't that you'd leave the car, just leaving the bike
. I definitely dont see myself as one of ‘those’ people.
Personally I think you're worse than Hitler....
Driving it is kinda boring,
Nah... Some of the most beautiful stretches of road I have driven, despite being in my shitbox 1.9d Ibiza... Albeit at 4am in the morning in July. The GF resented having to get up so early, but from my perspective it was worth it.
Late to this - but agree with much of what has already been said. Don't do the NC500 as a road trip - the worst way to see the Highlands is through the windscreen of a vehicle. Decide what is important to you ad your family on a holiday. Pick a base, or several bases, to suit. You may choose to use a motorhome, it adds some flexibility - but in high season you will have to book campsites in advance in many areas.
As @fossy suggests, visit Laide - although his cousin gets quite nervous when hired motorhomes start reversing near the fuel pumps.... The Postie is quite friendly though, and there is a lovely basic beach campsite just along the road at Mellon Udrigle.
cycling in the highlands in may is most certainly a good idea. There are bits of the NC 500 I wouldnt ride but a west coast tour? Done it many times. Locals are friendly and as Scotroutes says camping is easy.
If you’re flexible with timing, April can be fabulous weather and most tourism-businesses will be open from Easter onwards. The NC500 has turned into a bit of a racetrack with groups of sports car and motorbike ‘enthusiasts’ from across Europe seeing it as a bit of a challenge so I’d avoid cycling on it, but there are many great roads to enjoy. Going up the islands and coming back across and down via the Stornaway to Ullapool ferry is a great loop. I don’t know why folks have an obsession with JO’G - it’s not even the most northerly point and frankly it’s a $hithole best avoided, as is the A9 south of Thurso.
Cycling remains the best way to do it
I wish I’d taken photos of the numerous groups of bikepackers on the 3 days the weather was bad when we were there last year, but unfortunately I didn’t want to get blown away & I didn’t have an underwater camera.
I just though, ‘rather you lot than me’. I can’t think of anything worse than riding in 40mph winds, in torrential rain, then having to pitch a tent, then pack it away next day, & cook your own grub. Stuff that lark.
At least I suppose more people cycling means less cars & horseboxes.
it’s not all as bad as some can make out
I'd agree with this, it's a whole lot busier than ten years ago but it's still not even close to Lakes type crowds or traffic problems.
As for times, I was up near Rhichonich a few weeks back. Weather was lovely and the roads were dead.
We cycled from Thurso to Kinlochewe (via Cape Wrath) last July. Weather was fantastic which made it a very memorable trip. Only had one questionable incident where it appeared that someone was driving straight at us. Other than that, we found drivers were considerate and the "locals*" very friendly and welcoming.
The traffic is weird - you can go for hours without seeing a car then there are about 50 at once. You can hear the sound of motorbikes / flash cars "making progress" from a long way away though.
There were very few casual stop-over places available for vans - the few likely looking spots had hand painted 'No Campervans' signs. We heard lots of stories about inconsiderate parking - vans parking up for the night on people's drives!
If I was going back up there, I'd stay in/near Durness for a few days, then somewhere further down the West coast.
Is it advisable to book campsites for a 1 man tent. I don’t want to be restrained by a timetable but want to stay at a couple of campsites to recharge batteries etc.
We (and a lot of others) got turned away from Scourie camp site as it was full and told not to camp in the village - lots and lots of 'no camping' signs. There's bugger all places to pitch a tent for a few miles outside the village.
The (fantastic) site in Mellon Udrigle had stopped taking tents (not full, just decided they didn't want to), but after chatting with the owner for a bit, he let us on and provided us with a portaloo 🙂
It would be worth booking ahead, IMHO - or at least scoping out a few alternatives.
*Most of the "locals" had English accents.
fossy
Full Member
Don’t forget to say hello to my cousin, she owns the petrol station/store in Laide !
And a proper oasis it is too! - I don't think we'd passed a shop or bar for about 30 miles prior.
We were amazed when heading off to uags bothy from the end of the road, cars were driving along the road from Apple Ross to a beautiful natural harbour stopping winding down the window sticking their phone out taking a photo then 20point turning and driving away.
On that note. Uags bothy is well worth a visit while you are up there. That's one night sorted!