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Can anyone point me to a reasonably priced source for a replacement, I think its old yella there.
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The blue thing us the capacitor isn't it?
They aren't expensive
Label above the yellow thing is C2 so also a capacitor, the blue thing is as well. Not sure on the writing, 5.0K, can't be Kilo farads. Need an electronics guy to advise.
Why do you think it's the yellow one that's gone?
The yellow one is a resistor I think - 5K Ohm, wirewound, Blue thing is the capacitor - can we have a side view of that?
RS Components should sort you out.
K is 1000 pic0, farad so 5000 pico farad = 5 nano farad. The capacitor format is axial and type is electrolytic by the looks of it..
looks like ceramic cap, I though it seemed a small value for an electrolytic. Slightly off in value but you could always hunt some more or add 300 pico F in parallel.
What makes you think it’s kaput? It would be *very* unusual for a non electrolytic capacitor to die.
^good point. Mind you its cheap enough to replace both caps.
The yellow one is indeed a cap - the text above follows standard naming (C2) and the C bit tells us it's a cap. R for resistor above, far right is L so a coil.
The blue component is also a cap but when this type blows the top usually pushes out.
Do you know anyone with a multimeter? You need to check each component ideally and they should be removed from the PCB before doing so if possible.
So the tweeter doesnt work and the main driver sounds like crap. If I take the cap out of the equation it doesnt sound crap and the tweeter works. The smaller cap doesnt look popped as its not swelled, so process of elimination lead me to ol yella.
K is 1000 pic0, farad so 5000 pico farad = 5 nano farad
5nF seems an odd value to find in a crossover, and it's a bit physically big. I'd guess K is the tolerance, 10% and it's a 5uF polyester film or similar. And yes, a very odd thing to go, unlike the electrolytic (the blue one).
It's almost certainly a 5uF 100V metalised film capacitor.
This isn't a common value (4.7uf is the preferred value).
Some listed on ebay, but a) in China, b) Out of stock
14.3 x 4.8 mm
Also interesting point on film caps in audio applications
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/69919/ceramic-vs-film-capacitor-which-one-is-preferred-in-audio-circuits
I was going on the k is 1000 Pico Farhad as that's what I have come across before repairing some old equipment. Link is a film cap
EDIT: Interesting to know that K can be a tolerance as well
So the tweeter doesnt work and the main driver sounds like crap. If I take the cap out of the equation it doesnt sound crap and the tweeter works. The smaller cap doesnt look popped as its not swelled, so process of elimination lead me to ol yella.
Guessing a bit on the schematic here, but I would expect that if you take the yellow cap out, the tweeter shouldn't work at all (I would expect it to be in series with the tweeter).
Taking the other (blue) capacitor out probably wouldn't make much difference (I would expect it to be wired across the woofer). If the blue cap is leaky (very likely) it will rob the bass of signal and be noisy.
The tweeter doesnt work at all unless i wire direct. Ill just do both to be sure.
try here https://willys-hifi.com/collections/mkp-polypropylene-capacitors
give him a call I am sure he will help