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A twenty year old Discovery, pass or fail?, it's a pity we couldn't be more creative in the outcome...
20 yr old disco rust rust rust.
Do you want it to pass a mot test or do you just want a certificate 😉 I'm sure there is a man in a garage in Fife that you know
200tdi engine?
Thats worth £500 for dropping into an old defender 😉
20 year old disco rust rust rust.
The chassis has never been welded, but I noticed a hole a hands breadth from the rear seat belt mounting. My old one failed there too. I've got a panel to repair it with.
I foresee a bit more.
Do you want it to pass a mot test or do you just want a certificate I'm sure there is a man in a garage in Fife that you know
I get it tested by the local council, they are pretty fair, it doesn't do a big mileage but its almost always towing the trailer so it needs to be safe.
Stoner, I've got a spare 300tdi engine if you are after one. The head was recently skimmed but there was a little bore wear. I've kept it for spares but doubt I'll ever use it.
On the plus side, it got it's yearly wash.
Every one ive looked at the chassis has been ok its all the mounting point to the body thats eem to be rotten.
Well at least your car isn't French (gulp)
My everyday car is a Citroen.
Depending where the mounting is, and which belt it is, not every seat has to have a seat belt, yep it's another funny mot testing oddity, there is a flow chart in the testing manual ( http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4i00000001.htm)
Your other alternative is to remove the rear seats and all the belts.
My day to day car is a citroen aswell best car ive had.
Likewise , love my pug parksie
French have a bad rep but no worse than audi or vw these days.
Worst car i ever had was a vw.
Know how you feel re the mot mcmoonter. The redneck fromtera has been the garage for last 2 weeks while i was working in baku......
mcmoonter - MemberOn the plus side, it got it's yearly wash.
That's my MOT prep too. The car's always fit to test, but it's nice if it doesn't look like it's been stolen and abandoned in a ditch, like it does the other 364 days of the year.
The fail of doom wasn't too bad. A wee bit of welding to a sill, one wee patch on a body mount, and a track rode end. Not bad for a twenty year old Land Rover with 167k on the clock.
That's my MOT prep too. The car's always fit to test, but it's nice if it doesn't look like it's been stolen and abandoned in a ditch, like it does the other 364 days of the year.
North wind, the contents of the hoover bag were indistinguishable from the what you'd find in a wheelbarrow.
Mine is about 80% mixed soil and stone, and 20% chocolate milk bottles.
Got y fail sheet this morning
Rear arb bushes
Litle bit of welding i never got round to finishing
Washers dont work- mechanic found the magic relay box that eluded me - its not where the manual says
But - non fail item i asked him to look into has thrown a curve ball. Got intermitant steering issue- 9 days in 10 its fine. Then it gets a tight spot in the steering and bad wheel wobble. The column ujs are in fine fettle- i serviced them all and mech agrees. All evidence points at rack or pump- both high £££ items:/ dont really want jayne driving it with dodgy steering though.
Hes gonna see what options he has from breakers and get back to me.
In all i think its done not bad for a 1k 4x4 that gets abused.
The front track bar, has ball joints each end, they aren't nipping are they, because if they aren't parallel seen that cause a problem.
Nipping ?
Track bar ?
Are you thinking of frontera a series with recirc ball steering box like a landy ? Mines a b with a rack and pinion
I replaced both intenal and external rack and rod ends - as i thought that was the issue my self made no difference 🙁
Also did both wheel bearings which were chronic bad and serviced column ujs and the bevel box between the rack and column
So, I had a poke around where the tester had found the holes in the sills. The inner sills had two holes, one very behind the rear body mount which means that a replacement sill will probably be the easiest solution. When I removed the plastic outer sill, a whole new world of horror was hiding.
So Ive ordered an outer sill too. I took the passenger seat out and pulled back the carpets, there is a small repair there too, but it's flat and easy to get to.
It's not quite on the scale of Stoner's rebuild but I'm very thankful for that.
It is amazing how they look in great condition untill you pop those plastic covers off.
The chassis has never been welded, so its still worth doing some remedial repairs. I've no idea what I'd replace it with that has as plentiful a supply of aftermarket parts and access to the knowledge and enthusiasm that Land Rover owners are renown for.
If rack and pinion ignore my comments, think I've got you mixed up with a defender.
I had about three hours with the angle grinder and spot weld drill chopping out the floor this afternoon. The new inner and outer sills arrived by courier, they have a generous lap into the middle of the four wells. The metal there is in very good condition so it should make for a good welding base.
Hopefully I will get it back together tomorrow.
You've got to love a Land Rover.
Not too bad that ive got a donor 91 3 door disco in the garden. The bodys 95% rot. When its time to take it off ill just need to stick a strope theough the windows and pull i think......- itsnot one of the rare 91 3 doors protos though
Cheers anyway benji , easy mistake to make as ive got a 90 as well.
Should sell the disco and get that mog mcmoonter!
The Mog was sold by the time I viewed it. It hasn't stopped me looking for another.
The weldathon of doom is complete. Now to book the Land Rover's retest. I'm not expecting a phone call from Moots anytime soon.
In the end I had to replace the both the inner and outer sills, the outer rear wheel arch door shut panel and almost all of the rear wheel arch top.
If the other side needs the same amount of welding next year I may have a rethink. Still it was rewarding to do and I have a better idea of how to go about it. I'm hoping the nearside is more prone to rust as it is on the puddle side of the road. #wishfulthinkingtooscared tolook
blimey that's commitment to the wagon.
Those old discos seem to go for £1500-2000 in fair condition round these parts,.
Sorry MrMcM you forgot to type this in bold..
[b]You've got to love a Land Rover.[/b]
🙂
blimey that's commitment to the wagon.
The tester said I could probably get away with a couple of patches, but the more I poked the more rust I found.
For a twenty year old Land Rover that's never seen a welding torch, I suppose its to be expected.
The thing about the early Discos is that I can fix them, the bits are cheap too. If I bought a newer TD5 one engine management bill would wipe out any saving.
It gets no love for the rest of the year so its to be expected.
My Dad's a huge fan of them. He keeps talking about replacing his, but his is immaculate whereas anything he might replace it with will cost a fortune.
Bang that spare 300 tdi you say youve got in one and lose the TD5!
My 2000 peugeot partner had to be pushed out of the mot centre and bump started this evening, needless to say it passed and I should get at least another year out of it. Just need to get a new battery.
My TD5 gave me no issues on the ECU side of things. Down here in Oz it was the cooling system that was the main problem, whereas in the UK it's the chassis falling apart that's the big problem.
A bloke I work with who has the title 'engineer' in his job description tried to replace a cross member on his Navarra with some wood, sanded smooth, and painted black.
It didn't pass, surprise surprise....
Td5 body on a 300tdi engine and chassis.
Thats what i want. Td5 bodys were pretty good. Td5 chassis was paper machie
The ecu on the td5 is prone to getting an oil bath but once sorted its generally its electrics are pretty reliable.
Some wood and paint - classic.
When i was strippig my 90s bulkead for welding i found previous owner has stuffed news paper and sponge in the a pillars- it passed !!!
had a house like that. Load-bearing newspaper.

