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A few more Q's regarding my new ensuite:
1. It appears there is 22mm of plaster on top of the brickwork on the wall I need to attach my shower to and want to attach a tap to (the ledge on the bath is too narrow), I guess that's not enough for something like this, and that I'd need to build the wall out a bit to create space for the pipes behind it...which should work OK?
http://www.bathempire.com/round-thermostatic-bar-mixer-valve---shower-and-bath_p4030315.htm
2. I have a picture rail to remove, I presume I should remove the strap, plaster the resulting gap then skim it with joint cement or similar?
3. For various reasons I am making the furniture...I am aware that you can get moisture resistant MDF, as I'd want certain parts to be water resistant I'd varnish them, is there any point in getting the moisture resistant stuff?
That's all folks...TIA
Concealed pipes look best, half-hearted attempts at concealing them look worst but bold exposed pipes can look good. I once plumbed a shower with 2 chrome pipes rising up out of 2 holes I drilled in the top of the bath. It looked good and didn't leak.
and
4. I have to route a 32mm waste pipe into the soil....instead of going directly into the cast iron pipe (2 stories up, gonna cost a bit to get someone in to do that)...can I route it into the pipe (horizontal, lead) that links the existing WC to it? I can't see a product for doing so on the usual DIY outlets.
TA BJ - I can't see exposed pipes working in my situation tho - certainly not with that tap.
Regards that mixer tap I'd say your only option would be to build a small stud wall to hide the pipes in, you could hack the existing plaster off before you build the studd to retain as much space.
The other option would be a more Victorian style tap which would be more suited to exposed pipes but that depends if it fits in with the rest of your scheme.
Regards the waste pipe I don't think your supposed to connect to the wc waste/ soil pipe internally incase you get any back flow ie.$hite flowing back up the waste into bath.
Ta uno - I suspected as much.
I am thinking of recessing as you suggest, but building up to the required depth with plaster and having a "bulge" in the wall - tough to tile over neatly I know, or a wee box/step out.
Can you not just chase the pipe into the wall?
What is the wall made of?
solid 1920s gable wall, chasing pipes into it is do-able, but I suspect 22mm isn't enough for the elbows to go into my tap above.
won't help you with your tap pipes, but we've got one of these - [url= http://www.aqualisa.co.uk/Our-products/Browse-showers-by-range/Quartz-Collection/Quartz-Digital/Exposed-with-adjustable-head/?area=241 ]AquaLisa Quartz Shower[/url]
The pipe is the riser - very clever. Just one box in the loft with flexipipes running to the shower.
Cynic-al,They will if you use copper and yorkshire elbows with these..... http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Taps+Showers/Shower+Valves/Shower+Fixing+Bracket/d240/sd3000/p68003
is this a Yorkshire elbow?
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Compression/Compression%20Elbow%20Male/d20/sd2697/p95060
No, yorkshire is a soldered fitting, they take up less room than compression. http://www.screwfix.com/p/yorkshire-solder-ring-elbow-yp12-15mm-pack-of-10/75971
Cool...is that pre-soldered?
If you chase the pipe into the wall, then tile over it you won't need to worry about a tidy repair job on the plaster 😉
Solder ring fittings are for teh amateurs. End feed is where it's at 🙂
For anything buried, id bend as much as possible, either lend a proper bender, or if that's not an option, buy a spring.
Aye but it's whether the tile that the valves screw on to will be flush with the other tiles.
Sorry Paul I have no idea what you are saying...
Never heard so much crap in all my life paulosoxo! You must work for BG?
Solder ring fittings are what most of us pro's use.
I doubt there is enough space for formed bends by use of a spring or bending tool. A proper soldered joint will be fine in the wall, i usually cover the pipe in duct tape before plastering over.
Chase the pipes in the wall (you can chase into the brickwork too). Or build a stud wall away from it. using soldered joints or compression isnt the best if your covering them up in a wall. so bend the pipe instead although this will increase the radius of tge bend so end feed would be normally used.
supremebean - Member
Never heard so much crap in all my life paulosoxo! You must work for BG?
Solder ring fittings are what most of us pro's use.
I doubt there is enough space for formed bends by use of a spring or bending tool. A proper soldered joint will be fine in the wall, i usually cover the pipe in duct tape before plastering over.
POSTED 47 MINUTES AGO # REPORT-POST
I was
A) taking the piss
B) in real life I use whatever I have
C) I'd still try and bend it.