[Closed] MDF pre finished skirting boards. What should I have done

I used it extensively in a large extension, I opened the packs and stacked it so it could dimensionality stabilise, didn't have any problems afterwards. I would say they can be filled and painted without it being obvious, I recently used dupret one part filler on some window frames very impressed with the product. Used Zinzzer paint to prep.
In my opinion life's too short to remove them, that coming from a life long perfectionist everything to a tenth of a mm type guy.
Oh yes just remembered I painted the back of the skirting before fitting this stops any moisture penetrating them.

I used 2 part no problem... lots of sanding but that's more patience.
Left a week to stabilise as I was doing joists and floor before I could even get to them.

Pre-primed was a joke ... they needed sanding and re priming..
For the most part the gap at the top is just filled after. Then finished with a fine art brush... (it was lockdown)

A touch up with paint is still going to be really obvious I think. Any better suggestions?

Paint the lot.

I bought pre finished for the extension. We bonded them and even after that the prefinished finish looked horrendous.

So I painted them and life's good.

For the most part the gap at the top is just filled after.

That's what caulks for. 🙂

On joint did a simple scarf.

The simple answer is don't have joints. Use full lengths*
*Unless you have a single continious run of more than 4.8m which is as long as you can buy single lengths.

Just done an entire 1920s house, and 5m x 5m extension. Any nail holes or screw holes were filled with bog standard wood filler and sanded with the finest glass paper. Not a blemish.

Yep pre finished is utter pants, nearly always looks grey and dirty.

No MDF in any bathrooms as it can fluff, just use the solid wood version in those areas. As you've found out, you need to finish it anyway.

Thanks all.

Seems like I didn't allow them to stabilise. I think I will have to remove the bad (looks horrendous) one but will re paint all of them.

Unless you have a single continious run of more than 4.8m w

Which is what I had on one wall 🙁

If you use a 2 pack filler you need to be stringent on sanding. It will look like a joint till painted.
If after you've given it an undercoat you can still see the join, then you've not sanded enough.

I've no idea how anyone ever gets skirting to stay in place with just adhesive. Maybe on a new build, but even then... always seems to need at least tacking and i always find atleast one wall that needs screws.

I’ve no idea how anyone ever gets skirting to stay in place with just adhesive. Maybe on a new build, but even then… always seems to need at least tacking and i always find atleast one wall that needs screws.

The guy who did my lounge thought he could get away with just adhesive too,
The carpet fitter proved that wasn't the case.

I have [put skirtings on bowed walls - both in and out bow on the same wall with just adhesive. Minimal filler required. What I did was use lengths of scrap timber to wedge them in place while the glue went off either braced to screws in the floor or right across the room bracing on the other side

150 yr old building

I did some skirting in a very, very old shop building in Stratford upon Avon. Probably Shakespeare's phone shop or something.

The floor was like a mini ramp. That took some scribing!

The back of the skirting I ended up 'kerfing' in places so that it would follow the wall better 😂

I think when you use a filler, it remains more porous and has a different texture to that which surrounds it so priming and flatting well is important, as is letting the material acclimatise if possible.

I’ve no idea how anyone ever gets skirting to stay in place with just adhesive. Maybe on a new build, but even then… always seems to need at least tacking and i always find atleast one wall that needs screws.

Use plenty of adhesive then use nails to tack them in place but don't hammer the nails in all the way. Once the adhesive is cured, remove the nails, using an offcut block to protect the skirting and then fill the nail holes.

+1 for paint the back before fitting, and obvs paint the front. I did all the primer and undercoat before fitting

I always use car body filler, works a treat and easy to shape after.

Use plenty of adhesive then use nails to tack them in place

Or massive long battens wedged off an opposite wall across the room until it sets... 😊

Or massive long battens wedged off an opposite wall across the room until it sets…

Or, if there's no flooring down , blocks screwed into the floor...

basically, whatever it takes to hold them in place until the adhesive has cured.

Good tips thanks. I have done the props across room thing before but was tricky as this is was the most used room in the house.

First fixing a wall, a long baton is placed about 4" up, that skirting is nailed into. It is also there for the plasterers to plaster down to. Gives them a datum point for the thickness.

If nothing there you can dook it.
Dooks are twisted wedges that are driven into the wall by first taking a bit of mortar out a joint. The dook is cut with a twist on it so when you hammer them in, a twisting action holds them tightly in place.

Dook is a Scottish joinery term, though I expect down south they have their own name for them.
https://www.dsl.ac.uk/entry/snd/dook_n2_v2

You'd need a dooking iron for that.

though I expect down south they have their own name for them.
https://www.dsl.ac.uk/entry/snd/dook_n2_v2/blockquote >

Propeller wedges

 

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/q-fixing-skirtingboard-the-traditional-way.68615/

Piece of wood screwed/nailed to the floor one end, other end wedged against the skirting.

I hold skirting on with 18 gauge brads (off an aairline) fired in to the plaster at different angles; holds enough till the glue dries.