You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
A few of the reviews that I have read mention that the ram mechanism seems to be a very similar component across many of the models available from different manufacturers in the 1.5kW, 4ton bracket.
What do I need to look out for? It's for domestic use with foraged firewood, cut to approx 25- 35 cm lengths by myself.
How much are you chopping if it’s just foraged? Wouldn’t you be better off just buying a decent 6lb splitting maul? Makes very short work of most stuff, even for a 11st weed like me.
I'm about to 'inherit' a 40' pine. The thought of mauling through it fills me with dread. The amount of wood it contains easily makes it worth buying a splitter.
I sold my log splitter after buying a Fiskars splitting axe. I found it much quicker and easier.
Pine splits easily. You can do a 40’ one within a couple days of with a maul. Save your money.
I asked about these a little while ago.
I didn't get one!
http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/small-hydraulic-wood-splitters
The one I have works well, I expect all the similar ones do too. It's rated 5T, I suspect he only difference is the point at which the safety valve releases so you may as well buy 5T rather than 4T.
I used to be happy with a maul but carpal tunnel syndrone, painful shoulder tendons and trigger finger mean I now prefer the splitter. Using the maul no doubt contributed to those problems. Look after your body and get a splitter, your older self will thank you.
Hire one for a weekend ?
I use one of these
http://www.mowermagic.co.uk/acatalog/smart-splitter-log-splitter.html
Works very well and saves back injuries 😉
JeZ
As I posted in the other thread, I'm a total convert. I felt like I sold my soul when I bought it, as I was all for the manly maul option. Since I bought it, I honestly haven't picked up the maul once!
That said, I do split quite a bit of random hardwood, the sort of stuff that doesn't split easily. If I had a load of 8" ash then I'd probably use the maul, which is definitely quicker for easy to split stuff.
Ambrose in one year's time:
"For sale: one lightly used log splitter. Cluttering up my garage so must go."
As others have said, a mawl is the answer. Absolutely devastating if used correctly and a joy to use too.
Avoid mauls, get a splitting axe. Lighter faster and nicer to use.
I too require a log splitter. what are the best recommendations for a splitter or axe that would be used a couple of times a week for splitting dried hardwood?
Cheers in advance
M
Fiskars X27
Another shout for the X27 - very lightweight, good head design and a joy to swing.
Only a recent purchase for me after many years with a heavy maul. Every time I read reviews of decent mauls the Fiskars would pop up with lots of folk claiming it's the mutts.
It is. And a snip from FFX...
nedrapierFiskars X27
I would suggest [url= https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/husqvarna-5769267-01splitting-axe.html ]this[/url] as an alternative. Similar money, but better performance and ergonomics imo. Personal preference but I found the Fiskars to be poorly balanced and I dislike the plastic handle.
I turned all of this (about 9 large cypress / pine)
Into all of this with mine.
...and loads more besides obviously. It gets used constantly. Great tool.
poorly balanced
I'm quite fussy and have no issue with mine.
Whatever you get, it'll be a lot easier, faster, and less tiring and put less shock through your body when it's sharp, so get a diamond file or sharpening stone for it if you don't have something already, and keep an eye on the edge.
I've got a maul, it's excellent.
I'd get a maul, a splitter looks like being £130, a maul is £20. Stuff a load of logs into a used car tyre and go at them, the tyre stops them flying around and you can do a good load within minutes, def faster than a splitter. Doesn't require much strength or stamina, and a used tyre is normally free from any garage.
[url= https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spear-Jackson-Razorsharp-Splitting-Hickory/dp/B005GCTCLK/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoors&ie=UTF8&qid=1508403868&sr=1-1&keywords=Spear+%26+Jackson+-+Razorsharp+6.5+lb+Log+Splitting+Maul+Hickory+Shaft+Carbon+Steel+Head ]This is the maul[/url] I got. Even a swing at 50% effort splits the main trunk of a 30ft sycamore we recently felled with ease. And my father in law has a splitter too – but the effort required to dismantle, bring up to my house, put back together, use, dismantle, take back to his wouldn't be worth the effort – by the time I had driven the 5 miles to his house, collected and brought back I reckon I will have finished chopping by hand anyway.
The only reason I'd consider a splitter would be if I, like my father in law, had a huge garden with multiple trees (he cuts down two or three a year) and get significant use out of it.
If I recall correctly Ambrose has a bad back, so t splitter may be the way to go. Myself I find the axe/maul good core exercise and my back likes it.
X17, X27 and Stihl 8lb pro cleaving hammer are my tools. Split 30m3 of mixed Arb waste in last 2 years. A small splitter would have dealt with the smaller and easier stuff but slower than the axes, and the twisted grain, gnarly assed pieces of 30" ash (ash is NOT always easy splitting) would have needed a much much bigger splitter that works vertically. I've learnt a lot on how to swing a maul to defeat these.... But still noodle some
I recently had an oak tree taken down. I borrowed my Dad's electric splitter and a very old blunt axe. I ended up splitting most of the wood with the axe as it was so much quicker plus the splitter is a pain to use on your own.
The splitter was handy for a few knotty bits the axe wouldn't get through. However if I was doing it again I'd just use the axe.
I know need a chainsaw for all the knotty bits neither the axe of the splitter would get through...!
Noodle those bits
Noodle those bits
???
get the chainsaw, you will understand. its the term for cutting down the gain, the saw cuts long noodles instead of chips
Which makes great tinder.
get the chainsaw, you will understand. its the term for cutting down the gain, the saw cuts long noodles instead of chips
Thanks. Any other tips (like how to not chop my leg off) greatly appreciated!
I've had a wood stove for over 20 years and used various axes and mauls. Splitting wood is a very theraputic activity.
Had a couple of elm trees taken down two years ago and found it was the very devil to split. By chance I inherited a 5 tonne hydraulic splitter and that has helped a lot. It still won't touch some of the gnarlier bits, though. I had to reduce them down with a chainsaw first
The type of wood and it's moisture content is critical. Straight-grained softwood is fine with a splitter but some hardwoods are a different prospect.
eucalyptus! Arg.
I love my Fiskar axes so sharp you can sharpen even cheap nasty pencils or shave yourself but for splitting i love the grenades with a heavy long shafted hammer, two minimum, only 6£ each on Amazon just now and fast free delivery for us with prime
[I know the OP is asking about small splitters but] 5 tonne is not that big - I bought a 20 tonne machine and what it doesn't split it simply cuts straight through! Brilliant for the twisted, knotty stuff that comes in my big deliveries.I inherited a 5 tonne hydraulic splitter and that has helped a lot. It still won't touch some of the gnarlier bits, though. I had to reduce them down with a chainsaw first
The type of wood and it's moisture content is critical. Straight-grained softwood is fine with a splitter but some hardwoods are a different prospect.
See above. I had a eucalyptus come down in the garden about 10 years ago and it's impossible to split with an axe if it's had any time to dry out - even my tractor mounted screw splitter couldn't do anything to it.eucalyptus! Arg.
For fun I dug out one of the logs that I'd consigned to the 'unusable' stack (because I'd left it too long and it was too big to fit in the stoves) and chucked it on the splitter... went through it OK.
Eucalyptus varies greatly like all woods, the stuff I've had had been some of the easiest to split.
I got a wedge from the garden centre it would appear to be either an Ames True Temper 2414200 4-Pound Torpedo Wedge or good knock off . For splinting large logs with a sledge hammer it is disappointingly efficient the job is over before you have warmed up.
impossible to split with an axe if it's had any time to dry out
If I ever needed a reminder I must split mine this weekend before it has time to start drying out.
Maul and 'Wood Grenade' gets through almost anything.
Ive got my eye on this 7 tonne one
The problem with that is you have to lift a heavy log 3' up in the air.
The problem with that is you have to lift a heavy log 3' up in the air.
have you ever used a log splitter? try bending over one for a good few hours splitting logs, the raised ones are much easier on the back.
organic355 - Member
have you ever used a log splitter? try bending over one for a good few hours splitting logs, the raised ones are much easier on the back.
I haven't, but it does still require lifting a hefty log to at least waist height. The benefit of that axe / maul is that the log remains low. It does require some skill though it doesn't take long to get quite adept at splitting with a maul.
The OP has a 40' tree in 1' pieces, is that right? That's an hour or so with a maul, it'll take longer to stack everything.
They have their place, and are good in certain circumstances. A bungee cord round a big log disc means you can split and rotate, lots quicker than picking up and reloading.
Also, if I spend a couple of hours with the mail, my tennis elbow gives me bother for ages after.
I currently have a load of cherry, been needing sit since last winter, neither the splitter or the mail will look at it, needs the big sledge and brass grenade to get it split.
I've tried a few things, but nothing is better than making sure you cut the logs into 8-12 inch lengths with square ends and twotting it with a splitting axe.
Just a slight hijack, whats the difference between a splitting maul and axe...?
And, for those that chainsaw, did you take a course? Or is everything on YouTube? 🙂
Take a day course, well worth it IMO. It's rare to have a minor chainsaw accident..,. Better value to find a "chainsawing for beginners" than try to do the official qualifications.
Maul is wider so forces logs apart more than an axe daddy.
howsyourdad1 - MemberJust a slight hijack, whats the difference between a splitting maul and axe...?
A splitting maul is a big blunt heavy tool for busting up really gnarled, knotted stumps or massive logs.
A splitting axe will typically be much lighter, have a narrower head with shallower cheeks and something of a sharper profile.
There are some varietes which mix and match attributes. A maul might also refer to a splitting axe with an additional hardened surface/poll for pounding wedges. Some people also call this a sledge axe. A splitting axe is maybe going to weigh about 2kg. A maul will likely be at least 3kg. This matters if you're swinging it hundreds of times.
Ok cheers. i have a shitload of logs, björk, tall and graner , birch, pine, and fur in english i believe! i want a Swedish tool of course to chop em up. WWSTWD?
And there are a shedload more where they came from!
Loads of fir on the plot that need chainsawing down too
Gransfors Bruks splitting axe.
I have one, but it's a bit of a garage queen tbh 🙂 My Husqvarna one does most of the work at half the price. Wetterlings also do an identical pattern to Husqvarna, as do Hults Bruk/Hultafors.
It has long been rumoured that Husqvarna traditional style axes are Wetterlings seconds.
Log grenades are imo, the most utterly useless tool. No control of split direction and too penetraty.. I've'nailed' rounds to my block a few times. Roughneck twist wedge or just a straight wedge, far far superior.
Is it this one Jimjam?
http://www.husqvarna.com/se/reservdelar-tillbehor/yxor/klyvyxa/576926701/
[img]
?max-width=480&max-height=360&quality=92[/img]
Yeah that's the one. Just put some electrical tape or rubber gasket tape behind the head to protect the shaft from over strikes and it's a fantastic tool. That being said Gransfors Bruks is the Rolls Royce of axes, you might be able to get them cheaper than over here.
I've never really got the hang of wedges. Usually goes squint when I hit it. I can get through most things with the maul (including monster rounds that I could not lift) and when I've got a heap of impossibles, they get added back to the heap for chainsawing.
I use the Granfors Bruks exclusively for my own splitting duties. It is a beautifully made and balanced bit of kit. I also like the built in guard below the head which is keeping the handle in very good condition. I also like the Fiskars axes as they are well made and have a consistent shape to split most wood when teaching kids on our camps to chop wood (whole other topic that one).
The pattern on the Husky can be a bit more interesting to use in wood that has a less than straight grain, but 90% of the tie it is excellent.
Whatever you do don't go for the maul and it is not the right tool for the job. All other suggestions would be better. (my twopenneth)
Log grenades are imo, the most utterly useless tool.
Nonsense.
Swedish test results of various splitting axes
Gränsfors best followed by fiskars. Gränsfors' shaft got Low points for strength, highest for edge quality and removing it from wood.
Shaft length is important, too. Too short coupled with a low chopping block and you'll find you bend on every stroke. The X27 is 960mm iirc and is easy to use fully upright with something like a 15cm block/stump.
Something to bear in mind.
I’ve split a lot of wood over the last ten yrs particularly in the early yrs setting up my log business. We’ve got a Thor 13 tonne splitter for splitting stuff that won’t go through a processor. It’s pretty impressive.
For Home duties I am now using a fiskars x27 and a tyre screwed onto a chopping block after trying out various axes over the yrs. I hate big heavy wedge mauls as swinging them all day means swinging excessive weight about. You get the same effect with a small weight swung at a higher speed and it’s easier on the body in my experience. Keep it sharpish.
Before the fiskars my favourites were the bahco 2lb hickory handled splitting maul, (a
Bahco MCP-2.5-810 Maul 5.1/2lb)
again, it’s a lightish less severe angled maul that’s ruthlessly effective. The only problem with them is using the tyre method you get a lot of overhits which damage the wood handle. In our early days we used a couple of these to do all our firewood before we mechanised. We did get through a few of them though and the handles aren’t easy to come by and replacements I’ve tried mean the feel isn’t the same.
We also tried the husqvarna axe shown earlier in this thread. It is still in the shed. It just gets stuck in wood too often and isn’t half as effective as either the bahco or the fiskars. It isn’t quite heavy enough and has a too fine profile. It’s fine on ash if it’s not too stringy but the hassle splitting logs is getting the axe stuck. That’s why people like mauls. In reality there’s something in between like a bahco or a fiskars.
I’ve just been banging through some dried beech and oak rings I’ve accumulated for Home with the fiskars and it really works.
How do you keep them sharp?
Thanks for the advice folks. As Neil alludes to, I have a bad back. I've been using a maul for a while now, care of Screwfix.
There is a big price difference between a top end splitting axe and even the cheapest log splitter. I'm prepared to give the splitting axe a go if I feel that it is suitable for me, a 55 y.o with incipient arthritis 🙁
We run a hydraulic 9 tonner off the tractor. Very efficient bit of kit, but obviously not for everyone (it's also £2.5k).
A great back saver, though, is a sappie. Well worth the £35!
Ambrose, I know you and know the truth about not beating up your body, so either save for a decent splitter IF you're scrounging enough wood. If not then pace yourself with the x27. You are tall, its light and long handled and great performing for its reasonable cost.
Pine won't trouble it, even notty bits.
I also suggest a pickaroon/hookaroon/log pick/sappie. It saves lot of bending, is good for moving rounds and splits. I have the Bison one which is highly thought of, although the handle is utter bobbins, so you'll rehang it on a nice bit of ash or hickory.
And to nobeer, it's my opinion, I'm offering a view and caveating it as my view. Your view differs. I have a grenade and have used it a fair bit in different species of troublesome wood, I have 2 roughneck twist wedges and I have another straight wedge. If anyone wants a grenade they can have mine, it's of no use to me. I also know people that process far more wood then me that share my view
Just thought Ambrose, I also suggest a pair of thin gloves when swinging the axe, I've used cycling gloves and now use gents black leather gloves, they don't need to be thick. They give a nice bit of extra vibration absorption and stop wood splinters.
Niel- re: gloves. I'm already on it 🙂
To how's your dad, just use a file to sharpen, the metal is soft enough that a file is very swift.
Firewood processors can be hired, with or without operator.
We can probably do a couple of ton of cord wood in an hour on the processor. Not for hire though, but there are others that do.
Or light wooden handled maul with a tall enough block and someone to place logs to make it really easy. Just need to keep it in sync so you don't take their hand off.
How do you keep them sharp?
If you go for the Fiskars they have their own brand sharpener that makes it very convenient and easy to retain the same angle. Not being one for that sort of in house thing I was undecided at first but thought £12 was naff all so bought one. A few swipes through the groove after a session and the edge is kept impressively sharp.
There are probably cheaper versions of that particular sharpener but it's a nice addition to the tool. Whether or not you need it that sharp is a whole other debate...
https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Fiskars-Xsharp-6411501207401-Sharpener-For-Your-Axe-Or-Knife
cheers teasel, I saw that last night and took the plunge. a fiskars x27 and sharpener is on its way. thanks for the guidance I love this place...!
You won't regret it, man - it's a nice tool to use.
Don't forget to register the product on their website in case you need to take advantage of their warranty.
i have no experience of log splitting- i have done it once, but all this talk is getting me envious. Never knew there was so much to it. I can see how some really get into the technology and techniques involved. Anyway, as you were.
no experience here either! I like the look of the tyre technique for splitting... works well+
now I just need to get the fallen trees into manageable pieces for splitting!
15cm block/stump.
oops - that was supposed to be 15 inches not cm.
I've just ordered the x25 and sharpener - most of my logs are smaller than the x27 suggests, so think the 25 will be fine..
I've a small hatchet for kindling, adn a BIG maul type axe for bigger logs anyway...
Do you reckon the fiskars sharpener will be fine for ALL my axes?
DrP
Do you reckon the fiskars sharpener will be fine for ALL my axes?
It's just a simple ceramic wheel sharpener with a plastic guide for either axe or knife. As long as your other axes have an angle that fits within the guide you should be fine. Too large and you'll chew up the plastic but hopefully you won't get that far along before realising.
Gränsfors maul user here. Does what it is supposed to. Can't say fairer than that. Likely to outlive me and my son will be inheriting it. So when we are out working together it does gather sentimental value too.
I like to chop most days as I find it quite enjoyable. If I need logs rapid then I concentrate on the straight grain stuff. More time and just want out the house I concentrate on the knottier stuff. If you don't like/have the room for logs lying around a splitter is probably the answer. That's if you can be bothered getting it out/setting it up etc. I cant. I enjoy the shear simplicity and reward that comes with the maul and manual labour. It is very surprising the amount you can get through when you get in the swing of it.
Using the maul lets me catch up with the children too. They load onto the chopping block, then gather and stack. Between blows we have great talks and laughs. I think this side of it would be lost with a machine.
I picked the Gränsfors over an X25/27 as I wanted a more traditional tool made by a craftsman. Not a plastic modern affair. Saw that as a bit of an intrusion into a timeless activity. (Yes yes I use a chainsaw) but it is nice to have a last bastion of simplicity in your life.
The cost I reasoned would be worth it because of the longevity.
the scheppach hl450 is what you need for light domestic use
The scheppach hl520 for bigger stuff or a scheppach hl710 for splitting an entire forest
I import scheppach and have some ex demo stock to clear based in brighouse a ross from the red rooster
Happy to help those interested
Prices from £130 all sold with full 12 mth warranty
[url= https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2015/nov/28/modern-tribes-woodburner-bore-catherine-bennett ]yawn[/url]
DrP, Fiskars said you didn't need the biggest axe, so you didn't buy the biggest axe? So disappointed.












