Lanoguard

I bought a spray bottle, and found it quite messy for bodywork, but very effective. Probably good for underbody places

Most of it still left, if you want it?

i`ve got it on my old VW t2 - I can definately tell the bits i missed.

I got teh larger pack and extension hose and it was dead easy, and no mess, to apply.

Surely doing it on the drive you end up with it all over your face?

I imagine (but could be wrong) that the place charging £3-500 also involves a bit of treatment of existing rust prior to spraying on some underseal. I used these folk for my car: https://preserveprotect.co.uk/the-process/ as mine had next to no underseal from factory - Aussie import - and was in a crappy state underneath after 13 years on UK roads. Cost me £600 four years ago.

Once done however, I topped it up myself on my drive on ramps. Not quite annually but done again last month and still looking good underneath. Not messy at all just topping up but I'd not fancy tackling it from the beginning.

not with a long hose. start and hte middle and work back. its sprays quite fine and goes on fairly thin.

i tried it initially to test with a trigger spray bottle and it was waaay more awkward.

It's good stuff, but not comparable to a full proper rust treatment, which will also include removal of old damaged underseal (which rust can grow under) and also descaling before retreating with a permanent treatment like dynax. But of course you don't really know exactly how good a job the person is doing, you can take it for granted that there's at least some expensively "rustproofed" cars out there that have been basically raptor'd over rust so you want to be sure you can trust the place that's doing it. 'twas ever thus obviously

For me it's a complementary thing- I did a pretty intensive permanent treatment and then I top up lanoguard every year, for penetration, bits that have worn, bits I might have missed, bits like suspension, and anything new on the car. Also bolts etc. But then I am a bit anal, I love my car, and also it came to me very very clean so I was starting from a high point. There's a broad midrange where probably a full treatment is overkill for the person's own goals. And then you come out the other side where the car's already scabby and intervention's needed. So it's not so much better or worse, it's about deciding what you really want.

I apply lanoguard with a squirty bottle, the main thing is get it HOT. Bucket of boiling/near boiling water, dunk the spray bottle in it, it'll get the lanoguard very thin so it atomises properly and sprays in a fine mist, which also means you waste less and it penetrates into gaps and seams and such. It's horrible stuff if you're brushing it on or spraying it cold, it's too thick so it goes on really thickly and messily. I don't use it for inside sills and tubes and suchlike, that's a job for something <really> sticky like XCP. Oh yeah, the bottle they sold when I got mine was crap, but I think they've revised that now. I definitely wouldn't bother with a wand or whatever but other people say the opposite. The grease is imo not really worth it, and tbh it feels like they kind of force it into a lot of the bundle deals for that reason.

Oh yeah, doing it on the drive you basically want to tilt the car as much as you can- you don't want to be underneath working straight up, you want to be working at angles. So get it up high at one end but on the ground at the other, or likewise side to side. A tall jack is very useful. I definitely couldn't go back now to squeezing under cars, I have a monstrous jack and big axle stands and I use 'em every single time.

You will smell like a sheep. Your car will smell like a sheep. This time of year it takes a while to dry, too, and while it's very resistant to washing off once it's set, it washes off easily til then so you want to plan a couple of days of either not using the car, or dry only use.

Really interesting. Been looking at this or the xcp stuff.

If Lanoguard is the same as Lanox (I think it is) then keep some aside as bike chain lube. It’s bloody marvellous. I’m getting much longer out of chains than with any other lube. Also, on a long wet ride it never washes off.

Really interesting. Been looking at this or the xcp stuff.

I've been using XCP Rust Blocker under the motorhome. I've tried different corrosion inhibitors in the past but this stuff actually works & is easy to apply. I use a small spraygun to apply & it goes on in a thin transparent layer without building up. It does take time to fully dry out so if it's in exposed areas I'd avoid driving at least until it goes tacky. I wish this had been around when I bought the moho in 2007. Can't comment on Lanoguard but I've seen the results and it looks similar to the XCP.

Ive had LandRovers and a Transit so know about dealing with rust!
As above lanolin is better than nothing but to do a proper job it's more involved.
I did our 2004 200k mile V70 again during lockdown.

Remove any rust, jenolite or Fertan the area to remove any remaining rust.

Followed by a few coats of 2k zinc rich epoxy

Overcoat with a Dinitrol.
Sills/box sections were done with Dynax S50.

Overcoating rust just allows it to continue underneath unseen.
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I've used it on (under) three vehicles now - Pathfinder, Defender 90 and FL2. The Pathy had recently (in the last 12 months) had a descale and re-paint, and the Defender was just re-chassised, the FL2 seemed decent, so just steam cleaned it first. The Pathy had a few bits of minor rust, so used Jenolite on those first. Been very pleased with it though - got the full kit with the lance and what have you for getting inside the chassis rails. Did them all in the summer so it cured quickly. And yes, it is REALLY sheepy - especially if you manage to get any on stuff like the exhaust - took a month for it to smell normal! But yeah, well pleased and will use it again next year. As many have side prior, it's only really going to be any good if you're working on a pretty clean underbody anyway, so prep and a proper good clean are essential. Oh and a lift really helps too ;o)

Ive had LandRovers and a Transit so know about dealing with rust!
As above lanolin is better than nothing but to do a proper job it’s more involved.

I'm not sure I need a 'proper' job since it's not a Landrover, and I have a galvanised body and chassis.

yeah i did mine in summer. bit late now unless you get it hot i suppose. stayed on the outside of my wheels (exposed to everything) really well considering.

i thought abour wire brushing everything but the task is just too much so just whacked it on. its been fine and becaise its so thin and runs ans soaks in its not become noticeably rustier yet!

much better than that thick black paint-on crap.

Lanoguard really needs to be put on mid-summer and allowed plenty of time to cure, it can take a solid week or more to fully dry out.

Looked into all of this for the Mini and I've plumped for the Bilt Hamber products as they're more targeted for suspension bits, sills, underbody etc. I also like that everything actively treats any small rust patches at the same time too. Lanoguard gets good reviews but unless you get the application spot-on, like RNP has above, then it's easy to have it wash off in a spot, let moisture in and create rust from the inside. Done correctly it'll last ages though.

Is there actually anything wrong with the suspension though? Is it all cosmetic? A lot of Mercs (especially the original SLK) can look absolutely horrid but be still solid. To do it properly you really need to strip it all down and get it blasted first otherwise you risk missing a bit that carries on under the coating.

Is there actually anything wrong with the suspension though? Is it all cosmetic?

I dunno, really. It is a bit rusty but as you say swingarms etc get like that. The Passat was much worse. the diff is also quite rusty.

The only thing I did notice was the universal joint into the steering rack was a bit rusty, behind the rear engine cover. I sprayed waxoyl on that ages ago, and when I went back for something else months later it looked much better. The dry surface rust on it had been 'damped down' by the wax.

Car might've been parked on wet grass or dirt regularly in the past, maybe.

I’m not sure I need a ‘proper’ job since it’s not a Landrover, and I have a galvanised body and chassis.

A half assed job just means the rot concentrates on the bits that have not been done or have washed off good and quick. so with that level of commitment your probably better leaving it alone.

Yeah not really what I meant.

I’m not sure I need a ‘proper’ job since it’s not a Landrover, and I have a galvanised body and chassis.

👍 non Landrover - galvanized body here as well....oh bollocks

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