[Closed] Jigsaw and Router for basic cabinets

I would have thought that in most situations that a router would be needed, a corded one would be perfectly acceptable. I can see the advantages in having a cordless jigsaw

Yeah not an expert but was gonna say same. If you don't already have the batteries I'd be looking at corded for the router.

I have Ryobi stuff (not a router) and it's good but the batteries are usually quite expensive. Milwaukee is the nicest stuff I've used.

*Tannoy* @kayak23 to the forum.

Good thread, looking for the same to make some speaker cabinets.

1/2 you need power.
1/4 trimmer the battery is an option but not for stock production ie putting a radius on 100mts of window bead.
They are fine for occasionally cutting a slot or rebate.
I'm not fussy with jigsaws tbh my old DeWalt is still going strong and it's 20 + years old and got a battering doind second fix on new builds.
For home use a track saw is better for straight lines.
My jigsaw now only comes out for radius work and general bodge stuff I do use it for cutting ally sheets.
Also if your getting a 1/2 router make sure you understand how it works I've seen some horrible accidents with them and 90% where user error they don't leave anything to sew back on

If you don’t already have the batteries I’d be looking at corded for the router.

As I typed it out I basically found myself thinking “do I really need cordless, no, not really”

For the usage in mind corded seems the better choice. Which at least narrows the choices a bit, and possibly means a better router for the same outlay.

For the money the Katsu 1/4” routers are very hard to beat, they are effectively the same as the Makita ones and compatible with all their accessories and rails/plunge bases.

For £40 and corded it should last you years for bits of DIY. Just get a decent starter set of trimming, chamfer and rounding cutters from somewhere like Axminster.

Will try and get a direct link:

101748 Katsu Electric Hand Trimmer Wood Laminator Router Joiners Tool 220V 710W

Avoid battery unless you ready need the ability to work without cables. They are more expensive, heavier and less powerful. Not ideal in a tool

Edit reading fail

Are you thinking of using or making a router table? If so definitely 1/2 inch is the way to go much safer too. Don't buy a trend router the bits are fantastic the tools not so good.
Elu if your old enough to rember where the goto DeWalt brought them out painted them yellow and they where ok.
The last home use one I used was a Makita it was ok just.

Make sure it has soft start

Katsu are not bad tbf it's a clone of the old bottle trimmer that Makita made just don't drop it. I may have dropped one 😂

Watch a few of Peter Millard's videos on YT - loads of tips on how to make cabinets. NB he never uses a jigsaw!

https://www.youtube.com/c/PeterMillard/videos

@pk13 - Agree with you on the safety part, even the 1/4” ones can give horrific injuries.

So basics like eye & ear protection, no loose clothing/hair, don’t put down when moving, unplug before changing blades and think about the direction of cut and any obstructions are really important. Also clamp all your work and hold the router with two hands.

Having read a few horror stories about people being chased by or holding the work directly in the cutting path I would really like to avoid repeating their mistakes…

Are you thinking of using or making a router table?

At this point no, I’m quite space constricted but I do have a solid workbench for clamping.

So basics like eye & ear protection, no loose clothing/hair, don’t put down when moving, unplug before changing blades and think about the direction of cut and any obstructions are really important. Also clamp all your work and hold the router with two hands.

Having read a few horror stories about people being chased by or holding the work directly in the cutting path I would really like to avoid repeating their mistakes…

Absolutely to all that.

I’m definitely still in the figuring stuff out phase.

Peter Millard’s videos on YT

Perfect, thank you.

Budget is up to £200 for the tool, extra for the bits.

That’s a limit not a target.

Unless you want to cut curves, you may find a cheap track saw is much more useful for cabinet making than a jigsaw. They will turn out cut edges that are ready to assemble but anything cut with a jigsaw will need to be planed/sanded/routed to a line

I love my little Katsu, but I've never tried anything better to compare. Definitely get the optional plunge base for it though.

Don’t buy a trend router the bits are fantastic the tools not so good.

Unsure why you say this, as I find my Trend T5 a really nice tool to use and more fitments etc than pretty much anything.

I reckon a 1/4" router is fine for pretty much everything I need (except kitchen worktops), usually worse case it takes more 'passes'.

I've also a corded Makita palm router, full kit for about £150 - but my Trend is my 'go-to'.

Unless you want to cut curves, you may find a cheap track saw is much more useful for cabinet making than a jigsaw. They will turn out cut edges that are ready to assemble but anything cut with a jigsaw will need to be planed/sanded/routed to a line

The jigsaw is mostly for other jobs tbh, that needs to be cordless.

I have (possession of) a Festool TS55 track saw, which for my standards is pretty amazing. It’s actually my neighbours but he’s basically given it to me to use as he doesn’t have space for it, but doesn’t want to sell it either although if he does im having it.

I felt like a pro once I bought a decent track saw (Makita). It wasn’t cheap though.

I’m not fussy with jigsaws tbh my old DeWalt is still going strong and it’s 20 + years old and got a battering doind second fix on new builds.

For years I used an old Bosch one, it finally died a couple of years ago and I replaced it with a Makita - I was surprised just how much better it is to use, probably mainly down to the extra weight. Annoyingly it was right at the end of a 9 month camper build, I would have replaced it sooner if I’d known what a difference it would make.

As we've got a wordwork thread going already, I could do with some advice please.

I need to cut a long thin strip off some shelving boards (to remove prob 20mm width and a bit more than a metre long).

Any idea what the cheapest decent way of doing it is please? If I try with a handsaw I will 100% get it wonky.

Can you borrow a track saw from somewhere?

I have a Katsu palm router and a Aldi 2 handed router. Bought the big one first, use the little one more often. Rarely use them though. Hardly ever use my jigsaw. I bought a tilting base for the Katsu but not needed to use it so far.

I have (possession of) a Festool TS55 track saw,

You’re sorted then! 🙂

I need to cut a long thin strip off some shelving boards

Find someone with a track saw or table saw. Whereabouts are you?

@intheborders
Wow I've killed 2 of those will never get another. First was the top bearing failure, second the wire snapped on the winding.
The first was not mine
So I replaced it with a DeWalt.

I've had a few routers and quite a few at the budget end too.

My big router that lives in a table is a Trend T11ek. Very good.

As above, the Katsu ones are actually pretty good. They're not quite the same in build quality as the Makita but perfectly good.
I have a cordless Makita, Katsu and a corded Katsu.
All excellent and being able to interchange bases etc is very handy.

I had an Erbauer half inch but returned it as it had play in the bushings in the plunge mechanism. Dangerous. Don't seem good build quality.

I've had a few Triton ones, the Tra001 and Jof, both of which have started to have issues with the spindle lock auto feature.

If you want a smaller 1/4" tool, then the Katsu is amazing for the money.
For a 1/2" router I'd be inclined to spend more.

Jigsaws I've had a Hitachi and now have a Makita. Both good but battery platform is everything if going cordless.

(Trend T5)I’ve killed 2 of those will never get another.

I guess there are terrible experiences for most brands. I've not had any issues as yet.
It's Erbauer and Triton for me that I don't recommend.

Any idea what the cheapest decent way of doing it is please? If I try with a handsaw I will 100% get it wonky.

If you cannot find someone else to do it for you, use a hand saw but clamp a straight bit of 2x4 or similar along the mark, use this to keep the saw straight and plumb. Take you time as when you get tired you are most likely to wonder.

Also new sharp saw, higher tpi for better finish, score along the line with a sharp blade on both side before starting.

Also as you progress wedge the cut open to minimise pinching, wax blade if you really need but this will wear off quickly on a long run.

a straight bit of 2×4

😂

Elu if your old enough to rember where the goto

My quarter inch Elu router which is at least 35 years old and has suffered endless abuse on site is still going strong, in fact I'll be using tomorrow to hang doors.

I recently borrowed someone's quarter inch Trend router which I thought was the pretty much the identical design, I was shocked how crappy it was, nothing operated smoothly on it, gave up using it.

My Bosch jigsaw from the same era works absolutely fine too, I'm not bothered that it isn't tooless blade change. Back in the day Bosch were the go to manufacturer for jigsaw as I believe they invented portable jigsaws, no idea about these days though.

Yup the blue Bosch with little spring blade removal then the twist top like my DeWalt.
Nothing made like old days 😃

a straight bit of 2×4

My local timber merchant only sells banana versions....

@kayak23
Trend T11ek is the high end I believe.
I think triton and Erbauer are from the same parent company? Tmi? Or something.

Related question...

Does anyone know any good books or Youtube channels for someone who has never built any furniture before? I want to attempt a wall to wall TV cabinet and then maybe some wardrobes under a wonky attic ceiling.

I'm also dying to play with a router so I'm reading all the tips!

@tillydog, Sheffield, on the offchance!

If you cannot find someone else to do it for you, use a hand saw but clamp a straight bit of 2×4 or similar along the mark, use this to keep the saw straight and plumb. Take you time as when you get tired you are most likely to wonder.

Also new sharp saw, higher tpi for better finish, score along the line with a sharp blade on both side before starting.

Also as you progress wedge the cut open to minimise pinching, wax blade if you really need but this will wear off quickly on a long run.

That's extremely helpful @TheBrick, thank you.
I think I have a big long straight edge I can use for this purpose.

I’m in the market for a Router and Jigsaw

Routers are power hungry, so avoid cordless, chances are you'll be working right next to a power point. Jigsaws not so much, but seem a bit of a stretch to go cordless when as said power points are right there.

Bosch make a nice basic jigsaw, the GST 90. Its under a hundred quid and will be good for just about everything you need.

Routers, tricky. Obviously you're not going to put it to heavy use 5 days a week so a bit down the rankings would probably be fine. But it's also a very versatile tool and better quality will last longer. so maybe something like a Makita RPO900X

The makita router isnt variable speed,but it is very capable.If you think you need variable speed or more versatile in the future maybe something by Trend. The T4EK or T5EB.

The T4EK can be dismounted off its base and used with grinding and carving cutters, the T5EB would be better if you get into this and want to mount it in a small router table.

@finbar - Nowhere near me, sorry. Fingers crossed though 🙂

A jigsaw isn’t really the first tool I’d grab for cabinet making. However, my Makita DSS501Z cordless circular saw is awesome - I have bigger, more powerful saws but you really need to think about setting up and clamping your jobs correctly. With the little Makita, 2 clamps, a good straight edge and a big square and you’re away. You can also use it one-handed without worrying about kickback. Agree on making a router table with adjustable fence for doing things like rebates etc.

Lidl have a corded router and some bits for £35 just now.

If you're looking at battery stuff and already have Worx, then look at Wesco (Amazon) and Bauker (Toolstation). There are also some other brands that might match up too.
I've recently bought a few of their tools after already having a Worx hydroshot. The batteries are all compatible, though some of them require their own chargers - haven't quite figured out the compatibility matrix there!
They're good tools - not as nice as my Dewalt XR drill and driver, but also much much cheaper. And they get the job done.

Does anyone know any good books or Youtube channels for someone who has never built any furniture before? I want to attempt a wall to wall TV cabinet and then maybe some wardrobes under a wonky attic ceiling.

There's endless stuff to filter through on YouTube, some ok, some not so great.
For built in furniture, Peter Millard and Freebird Interiors are a good start.
Your algorithm will do the rest.

Also, if I can help with any queries in any way I'm always happy to. Quite a few makers on here who are very helpful.
Pm me.

Does anyone know any good books or Youtube channels for someone who has never built any furniture before? I want to attempt a wall to wall TV cabinet and then maybe some wardrobes under a wonky attic ceiling.

Start with Peter Millards series on building a basic cabinet...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKle2JqhEV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urMoCGpzZTc

Are adapters fairly commonplace to allow a router to run on another manufacturers rail guide, from a Festool track saw in this case?

I've also gained access to a decent jigsaw, so I can scrub that.

Are adapters fairly commonplace to allow a router to run on another manufacturers rail guide, from a Festool track saw in this case?

Hunt on ebay etc e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283982445727

Also, have a look at Benchdogs etc, they do lots of adpators / bench things for cabinetry (mainly aimed at those with an MFT).

Rail squares are a good addition to a track: https://benchdogs.co.uk/collections/rail-square

My quarter inch Elu router which is at least 35 years old and has suffered endless abuse on site is still going strong, in fact I’ll be using tomorrow to hang doors.

I recently borrowed someone’s quarter inch Trend router which I thought was the pretty much the identical design,

Quite a few brand routers are related around the the old ELU routers - Dewalt, obvs because they bought the company but I think the guts of Trend routers are the same as the old ELU too - they're all actually all different badged machines (along with ones badged as Metabo, Freud and Fein)  made by a company called Felisatti

In some respects they're all pretty tried and tested and in essence a router is pretty simple tool, just one that needs to be well made. But they're very old designs now a lot of stuff that should be built-in (like properly functional dust extraction) is a bit bolt-on after-thought.

The reason I gave up on my Trend T7 was it was such a time consuming fiddly faff to just change a cutter if you had the dust port attached (and the the port was so flimsy)

Russian owned incidentally so time will tell if thats of any consequence

Are adapters fairly commonplace to allow a router to run on another manufacturers rail guide, from a Festool track saw in this case?

There's a guy making little 3D printed rail adaptors on eBay - I've got one for running a laminate trimmer along a mafell rail

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/wegsisolutions?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2563

Couple of questions, I seem to find myself drawn to palm routers, assuming its decent any reason not to when the initial purpose is cutting Dados/Rabbets.

I'm also torn between two ends of the price bracket.

A Katsu

Or a Bosch GKF125

But I've no way personally of knowing whether one is better than the other. Anyone had hands on with these two machines?

I’ve nothing useful to add here but Routers for some reason scare the crap out of me. I actually stuff cardboard down my trousers to provide some extra protection as I have irrational visions of the bit breaking and spearing my manhood.

any reason not to when the initial purpose is cutting Dados/Rabbets

Housings/Rebates 😉

Couple of questions, I seem to find myself drawn to palm routers, assuming its decent any reason not to when the initial purpose is cutting Dados/Rabbets.

I’m also torn between two ends of the price bracket.

A Katsu

Or a Bosch GKF125

Palm routers are brilliant. Certainly a good gateway to routing.
Just don't try to do anything too meaty with them.

I've not got direct user experience with the Bosch, though we used to get a Bosch demo guy in my last work once a year and I was always really impressed with quality and features.
I have a little 12v Bosch driver which is mint.

I do have the katsu though and there is no getting around that it's brilliant for the money.
I think the fact that you can use Makita accessories with it and katsu with Makita, I would personally go katsu.

You can always upgrade once you get a feel for what you're wanting to do the most.

Cheap enough that you can knock yourself up a little mini router table with an additional one which would make many jobs easier and safer.

when the initial purpose is cutting Dados/Rabbets.

Dado construction is one of those things that Mericans go on and on about, 'cos they've got table saws. FWIW (not much), rabbets/rabbits is 'Merican too. Rebates is Brit.

I did a full custom kitchen with dado construction with a track saw. I wouldn't use a router, even on a track adapter. I certainly would not use a palm router.

Piece of pi55 with a track saw. Just make yourself a shim the thickness of the blade's kerf. Clamp up a straight edge. Cut #1: put the shim against the straight edge, put the track against the shim. Cut #2: take away the shim; put on offcut of the material that will be mating into the dado against the straight edge; put the track against the offcut. You now have the accurate edges of your dado. Hog out the material in the middle any way you care. Track saw is still dead easy for this.

Peter Millard is a goldmine. All killer / no filler.

Are adapters fairly commonplace to allow a router to run on another manufacturers rail guide, from a Festool track saw in this case?

Arf. You've seen the prices of Festool track.

Millard did a video on cross-compatibility of different manufacturers track with different saws, but mostly for cheap saw cross-compatibility. Festool/Makita/Triton are all 98% the same but Makita adds an anti-tipping lip on the back channel and Triton copy that. I've used Triton and Festool saws on Makita track. Hint: Never use more than one saw on a piece of track - no guarantee that the second saw won't trim back the splinter guard and make it useless for the first saw.

Another hint with the festool saw. Blades matter. The default blade is usually a detail 48T blade for cutting laminate without chipping. The saw will struggle if you start running it through thick timber, particularly for rips. It will stall and burn the work. Get lower tooth count blades appropriately if you need them. Also occasionally clean your blades. Meths or isopropyl alcohol work a treat.

Piece of pi55 with a track saw. Just make yourself a shim the thickness of the blade’s kerf. Clamp up a straight edge. Cut #1: put the shim against the straight edge, put the track against the shim. Cut #2: take away the shim; put on offcut of the material that will be mating into the dado against the straight edge; put the track against the offcut. You now have the accurate edges of your dado. Hog out the material in the middle any way you care. Track saw is still dead easy for this.

Dont suppose theres a YouTube video for that, just so I can verify my understanding of the process is correct.

Arf. You’ve seen the prices of Festool track.

Theres an attachment for the saw specifically for cutting grooves to width, oh how I laughed when I spotted the price...

@finbar I have a tracksaw and live in Chesterfield if you want to borrow it, or bring the wood over. Am away this weekend though.

What a kind offer, thank you very much @jeffl. I'll PM you.

Dont suppose theres a YouTube video for that

On a table saw, but it is the same idea as with a track saw/clamped straight edge combo...

https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxUEJO55nl8jT-pVPLQuGUTlvDwidHGaQ2

I've got the Bosch palm router kit: https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/palm-routers-gkf125cepk-119901-p/

Very handy, I mainly use it with a half round bit for edging stuff. It has good dust extraction with the various base plates.

Has very little oomph though, so wouldn't want to try cutting deep rebates. Also, you need 1/4 inch bits for it, whereas a proper router uses 1/2".

Sorry for slight hijack, but did we settle on the STW approved tracksaw? Im a hobbyist, but retired an i could make use of one.

Any suggestiins for the sweet apot of performance and accuracy vs price?

I have dewalk xr 18v battery kit if thats significant, but happy to spend some money to get something that will last me and make a good job.

Ian

Sorry for slight hijack, but did we settle on the STW approved tracksaw?

As an absolute minimum Festool, but preferably Mafell.

but happy to spend some money to get something that will last me and make a good job.

IMO the only reason not to get a Festool plunge/track saw is the cost, which is a fair reason, they're not cheap.

But if money isn't an issue the answer has to be Festool. After years of using one it still impresses me!

Plus the range of adpators from 3rd parties for Festool is massive as it's the most popular 'serious' tool out there.

I went down the Mafell / Bosch route (same track design) and the choice isn't as good.

I have dewalk xr 18v battery kit if thats significant

A colleague has the cordless Dewalt. Nowt wrong with it apart from the garish colour.

I've got Makita. Very happy with it.
Peter Millard is again, a good source for comparisons.

Sorry for slight hijack, but did we settle on the STW approved tracksaw

I went from Triton to Festool and it is night and day. With the cheaper options you have to strive to achieve accuracy which comes built in with the better tools.

The Festool (mine is battery powered) has less power than the Triton but using an appropriate blade for the work in hand makes it a non-issue. The latest versions with the thinner kerf (1.8 vs 2.2 mm) blades have a much easier time of it.

Makita is the commonly referenced mid-range option and there won't be much wrong with it but last time I looked it lacked safety features for preventing kickback.

Last little thing is about battery power vs cable. Using the battery powered festool with the dust catching bag means ... no cables or hoses attached and really easy to manoeuvre and a completely portable option with great dust collection. Obviously a real dust extractor is better but I've taken my track saw to a timber merchants to break down sheet goods in the car park so they fit in the car. Obviously there are some merchants who'll do that for you with panel saws but when there's a bit of a rush on it is useful.

Anyone had hands on with these two machines?

No, but I've one of these and can recommend it:

https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/makita-rt0700cx2-router-trimmer-with-tilt-plunge-bases?gclid=CjwKCAiAg6yRBhBNEiwAeVyL0GyTYPdsJrxzdQcUj9UM4ofFT2ul2t5H1QBMEcTC_hZs-przDGq17hoC8NEQAvD_BwE

whereas a proper router uses 1/2″.

Sorry, utter rubbish.

Or a Bosch GKF125

Or as 'in the borders' says, the RTO700, which i also have.

The plunge base on the RTO has a bigger footprint than on the GKF so is more stable, and the RTO also have other bases so overall it is more versatile.

You'll probably find it best if (whichever) lives mostly on the plunge base, as I've found that the small baseplate on the trimmer base, coupled with the weight being high up gives it a tendency to want to tip on edges were only half of that small trimmer base is sitting on the workpiece.

The RTO has an offset base and you can use the triangular baseplate off that to give the router when trimming considerably more stability.

I’ve nothing useful to add here but Routers for some reason scare the crap out of me.

Thats fair comment, they are actually a pretty dangerous powertool. They are top heavy, usually with the handles mounted in the middle so can have a tendency to want to flip over when holding them above the workpiece while running.

This is the offset base fitted to mine. You can see that it allows more of a footprint to sit on the timber so lessens the chance of it tipping over

Re. routers, I've got two very different options.

The beast is the Triton TRA-001. This is 2400W 1/2 inch and lives in the router table most of the time. It is a simple option for the router table because it has the riser mechanism built in. It can swing some seriously large bits and nothing fazes it. It was justified when I needed to template trim some 38mm oak worktops.

The other is a Katsu 1/4in. It is crude but is permanently fitted with a round over bit. Noisy and makes sawdust.

Once again, Millard is on hand to explain the n+1 theory of routers:

I cannot emphasise enough how much I've learned from Peter Millard and a few other youtubers.
The genius is in knocking up little jigs that enhance these tools. The fancypants Festool-esque solutions offer pricetags for fantastically engineered functionality but with a bit of ingenuity you can get 95% of the capability for pennies and a bit of time spent.

I cannot emphasise enough how much I’ve learned from Peter Millard and a few other youtubers.

What I like most about his stuff is the vidoes are short and to the point. Plus he obviously knows his stuff and all his tips are genuinely useful. One of the few YTers I sponser via Patreon.

I've been reading this thread and planning to chip in but others have mentioned what I was going to say before I got there.
However, as a maker of fine and expensive furniture I'd like to point out that there is no real need for expensive tools. Yes, they improve efficiency and are nicer to work with but they don't always improve quality.
Before I got my Festool tracksaw I used a really cheap B&Q circular saw for straight cuts. Using a fence (look it up) from a couple of pieces of chipboard it worked a treat. And I used a corded Black & Decker drill for ages too. I've re-visited some of those pieces recently and they're still pretty good.

I've been lurking here for a while, I've got a job to do on a door (pictures in the other thread if I don't trash it), and have been researching table routers, and now after this thread I've got all the bits on order to make my own.

It's a meta job that needs doing before the real job.

However, as a maker of fine and expensive furniture I’d like to point out that there is no real need for expensive tools.

You'll be saying there's no need to spend 4k on a push bike next! 🙄😉

You’ll be saying there’s no need to spend 4k on a push bike next!

Yes but they improve speed and are nicer to have.

However, as a maker of fine and expensive furniture I’d like to point out that there is no real need for expensive tools. Yes, they improve efficiency and are nicer to work with but they don’t always improve quality.

Burn the heretic

I had 4 doors to trim length wise, I could have got one of the fellow tradesman to get his festool 55 and hoover set up as a wee favour but I like buying tools and got an Evolution bundle for £180
Saw, 2x1400 tracks and 3 mini tracks that are just bigger than scalextric straights
I did the job easy, did the rail trim first and made sure I had a sheet of usb underneath blade set to 2mm deeper than the thickness of the door
I will probably just sell it all now might get nearly my £180 back as they sent me the wrong saw, it was the updated with the light/laser and all the bags to keep everything tidy when storing in the garage

Cheers all, I’m taking punt on the Makita linked to above (but not the 110v version.

Drop me a PM and I will send some cutters I no longer use in the post.
They won't be new or top draw but more than good enough to play with.
1/4 inch

Talk to me about bits

Is it a case of buying cheap, seeing what bits I do actually use before investing?

I only really need a couple to start with.

Trend. Unless you go fancy twist flutes
As above I can send you some to play with won't be new thou

Yeah Trend is the obvious name for router bits. If you are new to routering take your time to learn how a router behaves - it can do a lot of damage to a piece of wood! Really important to remember to tighten up fences/depth gauges properly after making adjustments. And not take off too much material in one go.

Make certain that you are confident of what you plan to do on a piece of scrap wood before attempting it on something that matters.

Apologies if I am assuming incorrectly that you don't have much experience.

It aways good advice they cut fleshi boney bits very well

Wealden Tools are good for router cutters, good quality and cheaper than trend.I'm still running an Elu 1/2" router that I've had for 30 years, it's been great but dust extraction is a ball ache.

Second Wealden tools. I get most of my cutters from there.

Rutlands are good for selection sets.
I used to buy them for the furniture making course I worked on and the quality was really nice.

Cheers all, I’ll take a look at Trend and Wealden

@pk13 thank you for the offer, very kind of you. I’m expect this to be done in grabs hours here and there so don’t mind taking a punt on buying tools so will go that route.

Ernie

Apologies if I am assuming incorrectly that you don’t have much experience.

You’re assuming correctly, total noob here. I’m approaching this on the basis that I’m learning how to use the tool safely first, the figuring out how to do the task I want. Then, if I’m lucky, how to do those tasks well. I’m quite a long way off wanting a well finished product.