Where’s the best place to stay for nice beaches, pubs and stuff?
I know it’s not that big but nice stuff within walking distance would be nice!
Just the Mrs and me so no kids to consider.
And ferries - best place to sail from/to?
Ta!
I spent a summer there but as a teen, no good recommendations for pubs sorry, but one thing I did find was, is the sun is ferocious, so stock up on sunscreen.
Just thought I'd say about the summer sun.
Unless you’re taking a car, which I wouldn’t recommend, ‘cos it’s sodding expensive, take the hovercraft over from Portsmouth. That’s what I did when I went over for the IoW Festival a few years back, and it was fun and quick. Dunno about where to stay, though, I was camping at the site. It runs from Southsea to Ryde.
If your coming by car then choose between Lymington or Portsmouth for the car ferry (whichever is closer to your starting destination) Lymington crossing will take you to Yarmouth, Portsmouth crossing will take you to Fishbourne
If your catching a train then, get one to Portsmouth harbour and then catch fastcat, the fastcat is a 1 min walk from the end of the railway line and gets you across in 20 mins, you can also take bikes on this ferry
This will take you to Ryde which has a sandy beach, pubs, resturants etc...
Once on the island without a car you are limited to a very short railway and the islands buses to get around and its quite hilly for the south
When coming back why not hop on the Hovercraft (its the only commercial hovercraft in the world) it takes 10 mins to get you back to Portsmouth and drops you off in Southsea, lots of bars, places to eat, lots of events going on all through the summer on the common, also you have the D day museum, Butterfly house, Southsea skatepark (oldest one in the world) the Tenth hole for pitch & putt and nice cake!
Went last year 1st visit in donkeys so disappointed the place has gone downhill Ryde Sandown Shanklin loads of empty hotels etc ust really run down Ryde seafront especially, sad really.
The south east side of the island id suggest - Sandown, shanklin, ventnor for beaches, tourist shops and beech front bars. Only a short bus between each and you have a few of the tourist locations such as the zoo/animal park and dinosaur museum. Ive always found the northern side quite windy and the beeches aren't as good (better for sailing points though). South west has great beeches but much more village locations and not as many beech bars etc.
The IOW is extremely tourist led so I'd advise going April to September as many shops shut for the winter.
Car ferry from Portsmouth has always been my preference, takes 40min and is convenient. If staying in a hotel see if you can get a package deal with the ferry as it's quite often far cheaper than booking it yourself.
Yeah the P*rtsmouth side of the island is all a bit faded seaside glamour sadly. Some nice spots in amongst that though.
West and south is better - Ventnor is alright.
Loads of great coffee shops, cool places to visit and most importantly it’s a very nice place to ride a bike
For a number of years me and my mates did a traditional mid-summer ride of Fleet-Freshwater-Fleet, ride to Portsmouth, ferry to Ryde, clockwise around to Freshwater for lunch, back around via Cowes, chain ferry etc to Ryde. Fish’n’chips on the ferry back and then a pint in the pub as we rolled back into Fleet - typically 12 hours door-to-door for 240km. There was always a burn-up on the Military Road around to Freshwater, kudos points for the KoM - one year I went solo on the climb up to Blackgang and held off 6 chasers 🤣. TBF I haven’t seen much of the island except for multiple years of the same route - some of the bits around Ventnor and Cowes looked nice, must others a bit too run-down, sea-sidey
I lived on iow ages ago so went back with the bikes. I really like it but I like quirky seaside resorts. The interior is nice, I d camp, lunch at garlic farm, few beers, fish and chips.
If u take a car the islands tiny and expectations too much. The round island bike route is a good start.
Good light duty MTB/gravel riding east to west along the downs, or even better, the southern "massif" behind Blackgang and Ventnor
Bembridge.
Went a few years back and stayed in Shanklin. The kids loved it and are pestering to go back.
We got the ferry using Tesco Clubcard vouchers.
Grew up there, most of my family are still there.
South and West Wight are stunning and quieter. The road and gravel riding's really nice and there's some good MTB spots as well.
It's really well geared up for bikes, lots of nice cafe stops and pubs and probably the best signposted bridleway/footpath network I've ever seen.
Edit: https://www.lifeinthesaddle.cc/p/rides.html?m=1
Tim's site is worth a look if you're planning on riding.
TL:DR Shanklin/Sandowm if you want nice sandy beaches and seaside entertainment, West/South Wight for something a bit more rural and "rugged" coast.
I love it.
I believe the south and south east coasts are considerably better than north or west.
As in less touristy.
Bembridge
Doesn't have a particularly nice beach - mix of stone and sandy patches. A couple of pubs, and a windmill....
Whitecliff bay is a pretty good holiday park - but again better in the summer as many facilities shut for the winter.
We like the South West part, stayed a few times. Once with friends, and then glamping at Tapnell Farm.
Nice beaches at Totland and Freshwater.
I discovered some v nice MTB trails in the woods just East of there.
My with is a first generation caulk head and her parents still live in Seaview. If taking the car we normally use Ref Funnel from Southampton - Cowes (come in slightly cheaper than Whitelink). If you're flexible on travel time you can get far better rates travelling early morning.
Where to stay? We always stay in Seaview. Its a lovely village now heavily populated with second homers from the Smoke. Beach is awesom and used to be quiet until the Telegragh advertised it as 'best beach...'. From Seaview there are a couple of very nice pubs: Old Fort - very popular with Londoners and you will pay London prices) and Seaview Hotel (very good food and cheaper than the Old Fort). From there you can enjoy a lovely walk east towards Ryde with cafe/pub stops enroute.
Alternatively I would head to the south as mentioned above, Ventor is nice and having driven to and from the village you will understand why the IOW Tour of Britain stage would have been carnage! Beach is good, some nice pubs.
I find the IOW a mixed bag; typical of an aging Victorian seaside resort. Attractions I've enjoyed: Osbourne House and Carisbrooke Castle (Natural England) - some good events on at the Castle e.g. jousting. Steam railway (runs from Havenstreet. The Needles (National Trust) and old Battery. Shanklin Chine. Amazon World. Wildheart Animal Sanctuary (lots of rescue big cats). Tennyson Down to stretch the legs. Monkey Haven.
IOW is very good for walking trails, all very well sign posted and varied. Cycling in general is very good though not much is flat. MTBing is best on west wight.
I believe the south and south east coasts are considerably better than north or west.
As in less touristy.
Generally, the whole of the eastern side of the island is the touristy side (Ryde round to Ventnor, with a couple of exceptions - Seaview, Bembridge and Ventnor). South coast round to Freshwater is empty with lovely coastline and more rugged beaches, like Brook and Compton. Freshwater Bay and Totland Bay are nice shingle beaches with good swimming and you've got Alum Bay and the Needles between the two where you can get a nice boat trip.
Yarmouth has some good pubs and busy restaurants during high season and from there I'd go inland again - ajantom mentioned Tapnell Farm, Brighstone Forest and the IOW MTB centre. The downs between Freshwater Bay and Brighstone are stunning, with incredible views.
At the other end of the Island, you've got Brading Down and the Garlic Farm and then you're into the more trad touristy areas.
Obvs, my own personal opinions and as I grew up in the West I'm more biased to that side.
Brighstone Forest
That was it, I'd forgotten the name 🙂
I found some excellent off-piste singletrack trails, with really good use of the elevation - 100m + drop in less than 1km. Had the whole forest to myself (or so it seemed) for a whole day in August.
Echo much of what's been said above - and if you're taking bikes there's plenty to ride and it's very bike friendly. South side has fewer shingle beaches which is nicer for your feet. There's a punchy road climb from Ventnor up on to the downs.
Good cafes to try out include: The Dell at Seaview; Garlic Farm near Newchurch; Chessell Pottery near Brook (amazing cakes); The Piano or the Coffee House in Freshwater; Briddlesford Farm; plenty in Cowes as well.
Yes Brighstone forest has some good stuff if you look and was always very quiet when I’ve been up there too. Unusual fern type things growing in the forest too, like the set of Jurassic Park in places, have seen slow worms there too which was cool. Piano Cafe in Freshwater does really good coffee and food and is bike friendly too.
In general I prefer the west and southwest side of the island as it’s much less built up and has the most elevation and views. Foot passenger with bikes is pretty cheap and quick from Lymington, with a car I agree it’s extortionate.
We holiday there a lot.
Generally always sail from Southampton to East Cowes on Red Funnel simply as its less of a drive for us on the mainland side and a touch longer on the ferry to relax/watch the boats go past/grab a coffee etc.
Ryde/Shanklin/Sandown are a bit old skool kiss-me-quick but find they're kinda nice in their tackiness and the tackiness doesn't extend much further than a few shops on the sea front. And that belies the fact they have great beaches... Other decent beaches - St Helens is brilliant (toilets, cafe and an even better cafe at the entrance to Bembridge harbour plus a wander around the Duver, an old golf course behind the beach, is great - can do a loop over the causeway back to St Helens and then up through the village and back down again). Ventnor nice - seaside town but a little more unspoilt Victorian chiq than Shankin etc. On the other side of the island, Colwell Bay is nice and if you want a swim/surf/paddleboard then Freshwater is worth a trip. There are beaches all the way along the south coast although access for some might be iffy but for unspoilt, people free beaches, aim for those. They tend to be pebbles and steeply shelving though. To be fair, all the beaches are decent, just some are pebbly/steep and some amazing sand where the tide goes out for miles!
Pubs/places to eat - the aforementioned cafe at the entrance to Bembridge/St Helens harbour is great. Looks like nothing more than a shipping container but their breakfast butties are epic. Think they do pizza/burgers on an evening too. The Taverners in Godshill is brilliant for pub food. Piano cafe in Freshwater. The George (I think!) in Yarmouth. Panini Shack on Ryde high street for a sarnie/pannini for lunch...
Stuff to do:
- walk up to Tennyson monument from Freshwater
- Steephill Cove + Botanical gardens is a must for us. The cafe in Steephill does the best cream tea ever and is just an amazing place to spend a few hours. No road access so the lazy people don't go!
- walk up to the Worsley Obelisk from Godshill is a nice wander. Treat yourself with cream tea/pint when you get back.
- as mentioned, Brightstone Forest and the BW which runs along the downs is a nice walk
Every time we go we discover new stuff to see/do... not booked a trip there this year yet, might have a look later...
Anyone got any campsite recomendations? We like quiet, simple and cheap if possible. Sort of Farmer's field style? Rather than flumes and entertainment etc.
Steephill is lovely. No cars!
Anyone got any campsite recomendations? We like quiet, simple and cheap if possible. Sort of Farmer’s field style? Rather than flumes and entertainment etc.
Heathfield Farm in Freshwater ticks those boxes (or it did last time we went). Walking distance of Freshwater for shops/chippy/curry house in one direction and the beach in the other direction.
For something a bit bigger, the Orchards is good. Got a shop, takeaway, indoor & outdoor pool but its actually a pretty small side to have that much in terms of facilities...
ventnor for beach and pubs. you can head to compton to surf from there too.
most of the island is largely grim. (i have family on the island so go alot)
the bike park is cool - hope they make some new trails
For stripped back camping in an idyllic location this is the best site on the Island
I've got a slight bias as it's owned and run by some friends of mine, but it's everything a campsite should be. It's also set in some woodland so the pitches have much more privacy than the normal huge field. I've stayed there and I live on the Island.
We didn't camp here, but visited the Water Mill.
Campsite looked relatively basic, but nice. Lovely woods and surroundings.
https://www.calbournewatermill.co.uk/holiday-accommodation/camping/
@sobiow is that off Broad Lane?
Noticed those when we were down recently.
Stoats Farm up at Totland is nice for camping too. Though it's at the top of 3 hills, so kids might moan!
Thanks all!
Seems like it's either a dire place or great! 🤣
Ventnor esplanade for rampy climb to top of Down Lane. ~780 feet over 2 miles.
Stoats Farm up at Totland is nice for camping too.
Think they've re-done it over the last few years. We stayed there about 6 or 7 years ago and it was awful in terms of facilities (cold showers seperated from the outside by a wooden door with a massive gap top and bottom etc) but had the potential in terms of location etc.
Highdown (?) Inn over the road is decent for a meal and a pint too...
Yup, was refurbed a couple of years ago. Nice new shower block that's been spotless the last couple of times we've been, puts even the French to shame ;o)
Quiet too.
Seems like it’s either a dire place or great
everything is just a bit tired and crap. They got loads of money from government to do things up last year so expect to see that lining pockets of teh wealthy there soon.
there are some nice parts but you have to join the dots between the crap bits. most urban areas are mainly crap. cowes is crap. newport is crap, ryde is just horrible. sandown/shaklin is fairly grim. I`ve not spend much time at the totland/yarmouth end of the island though but my expectations are low!!
Ventnor is actually OK - compared to the other places - its still abit crap, dont get me wrong, but the gardens and beach is nice. bembridge itself is very boring (but nice butchers/fish shop/bakery sausage rolls - is the pub back open yet?) but the walks around there are nice.
my brother loves it there. his kids cant wait to leave.
Thanks for the camping recomends everyone. Look like some good options for a few days early summer.
Best thing for us was dinosaur footprints, low tide on a rock slab
@sobiow is that off Broad Lane?
It's off Ningwood Hill, not really visible from anywhere as it's tucked away.
Right - accommodation booked in Bembridge - due to availability and price not being crazy! 🙂
Now for the ferry - Wightlink from Portsmouth to Fishbourne or Red Funnel from Southampton to Cowes? Will be taking car.
Not been on a ferry for 30 years! How flexible are they on arrival times?
Red Funnel is slightly cheaper and as I mentioned above, works out easier for us coming from the North + a bit of a longer ferry journey which is kinda nice/time for a brew/lots to see coming down Southampton Water.
In terms of flexibility, we have turned up early (and late!) before and they'll just try and get you on the next available ferry. Obviously more difficult at peak times in the middle of summer, less of a problem when you rock up an hour early for the 5am sailing in May!
If you're staying in Bembridge then Portsmouth > Fishbourne knocks 10 minutes of the drive off at the island side.
Arrive min 30min from the sailing time. If you get there earlier there might be chance of getting on an earlier ferry.
Thanks.
We're going early July (before School hols) and coming from Derbyshire.
Walking on Tennyson Down to Needles is great. Hovercraft for a day out at Portsmouth naval base / Victory / Mary Rose also great.
Walking on Tennyson Down to Needles is great
I was going to say the same thing. I parked up near Frewshwater Bay and walked along the clifftops to The Needles - absolutely stunning scenery.
