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I have a shed on order which I'm planning to insulate, although I'm half tempted to not bother if it gets too pricey. I want to store bikes in the shed, tools, and be able to work on the bikes. The insulation basically so it's not too cold in Winter, and hopefully cool enough in Summer. I'm down in the SE so it doesn't really get all that cold in Winter anyway, a few extra layers of clothing and not sitting around should be enough! But it has been getting hot in Summer and I don't want to cook the shed contents or myself.
From my insulation research for the walls it will go like this:
Outside world
Exterior cladding
Framework (68mm)
25mm battons (for Celotex to sit against to create air gap)
Breathable membrane
30mm Celotex (or maybe 40mm) or cheaper equivalent.
Vapour barrier
Interior cladding ie OSB or Ply
Interior space
Framework, floor bearers and roof joists are all stated as being 63mm x 38mm (3" x 2").
However, I'm so far a bit vague on floor insulation. Does it go on top or beneath the floor? Can we get away with being a bit more lax with floor insulation? Or would it just waste the effort of the wall insulation? ie Something like this:
Old carpet & old lino*
Vapour barrier
Wooden floor
Damp proof membrane
Concrete base
* lino for entrance & bike storage due to commuting in wet weather, carpet for elsewhere.
For bike security I wanted to set something into the concrete base, but haven't seen anything that looks like it's designed to be set into a concrete floor and emerge from the floor of a wooden shed on bearers.
Insulation only slows the rate of heat transfer TBH unless you spend a long time in your hut on a daily basis you would be better using the cash heating but without insulation.
Unless the shed is mahoosive 1x25mm layer of cheap polystyrene insulation behind a vapour barrier then clad with OSB/ply will be more than enough for walls and roof...
Underneath mine I raised it up over the concrete and filled thicker just to prevent an airgap because the floor joists are 75mm (fence posts) then some (recycled) chipboard flooring over the top.
It heats up from well below freezing to toasty in no time (minutes - stick it on then go and boil kettle) with a small fan heater then body heat is enough to keep it warm.
Only issue with the cheap polystyrene is wasps seem to love it... they can scoop it out and stick a nest inside the walls.
FM is right, I won't be spending a long time in there on a daily basis, most days just in out with bike twice a day. Unless a quick bit of maintenance required.
Shed will be 12'x8'.
Wanted to line the walls with osb/ply for the nicety of it. Then read issues with moisture collecting due to heat difference... but if I'm not planning to heat (unless really really necessary) or be in there for long periods on a daily basis then... Only thing is wet bike after cycling in rain.
Overthinking it?
On the other hand, I have offered to help insulate another shed which will need to be done reasonably properly for food production with interior sealed with hygienic cladding. So do need to find a good reference for insulating floor/ceiling as most online info I've found seems to skim over these areas and focus on the walls.
Any tips for bike security with concrete base + wooden shed?
Overthinking I reckon...
Mine is dry and only problem with wet bikes has actually been frozen droppers...
It's nice to be able to feel the small bolts with your hands though.
Definitely no carpet... not only will it attract damp but when you drop a small screw you'll spend hours trying to find it.
With regards to security, for my soon to arrive she’d I’ve bought a ‘Bull Stronghold’ bar which goes under the Wooden floor and provides anchor points for locks. Basically a bar/plate with anchor points bolted into it. Obviously the anchor points could be cut but you’d need to rip a large section of the wooden floor out to get the bar out.
Thinking about security I guess part of the question is if you want to keep your bikes from getting nicked or meet insurance specs.
I don't think in most shed/garage circumstances a ground anchor provides any additional security for 2 or more bikes than just locking them together.
Locks can be picked and stuff can be cut but ultimately if someone takes a hand hacksaw they can cut through a frame pretty quickly and quietly. Moving 2+ bikes locked together is going to make more noise in most circumstances. Obviously if ita s lockup somewhere that's different but shed garage next to a house ???
Just my 2p- worth....
Unless the shed is mahoosive 1x25mm layer of cheap polystyrene insulation behind a vapour barrier then clad with OSB/ply will be more than enough for walls and roof…
This is exactly what I did on my shed, 12’x8’. I bought seconds/damaged 25mm kingspan from a local builder at a big discount, had a double thickness in the roof with a false ceiling - I had the shed specified with a slightly higher roofline to accommodate this- and it has been fine. Heats up with a oil radiator and stays toasty, yet not too hot in summer. On the few occasions it has snowed, the snow stays on the roof even after a few hours inside working so I think this shows the insulation is quite effective.
I have simply had old bits of carpet on the wooden floor, in some places doubled, and had no trouble with cold feet, but I have never put wet bikes in there. Would the foam tiles Halfords sell be a better bet?
I don't see the need for the battons when you'll have plenty of ventilation between the framework.
I'd probably staple a vapour barrier to the framework and then clad with the interlocking flooring boards that are backed with XPS foam.
If you want to maximise space then you can insulate between the framework and/or use a foil vapour barrier.
I am planning to staple a breathable barrier to the studwork behind my cladding and then pack with mineral wool before ply lining. I will also be sealing any major gaps in the cladding with frame sealant (wood is a few years old now and not been oiled for a bit) and will oil both sides after I seal the gaps and before insulating and lining.
My roof already has a layer of insulation between the wooden roof and the metal corrugated top skin I added when I removed the crappy felt.
Unless you build your shed out of something like 2" thick dungwall it will be very hard to stop someone prying it open, a metal cage fabricated inside to lock the bikes into might be a better investment. Just need some thick angle section and weld mesh and someone handy with a stick welder. Double or triple up on the key areas like hinges and lock locations, get a camera in and there and a couple of alarms.
On the security side I have a battery alarm on each of my garage doors. I extended the circuit to a long wire that wraps around the bikes and has a male /female connection.