I’m just building up an internal cycle carrier in my car, and would appreciate ideas and suggestions how best to secure the base board to the boot lashing points, ie, to stop the whole thing sliding forward when I brake. The board in the photo is for example, and will probably be a little thinner.
The simple solution perhaps is to get some thin and short ratchet straps and loop them round the lash point and then round the board? Any idea for a more mechanical fixing method??
As pictured
If the plank was wider you could have put a cup hook at each end and hook them around the anchor points.
Or you could put strips of velcro on the bottom to grip the boot carpet. That might provide enough traction to stop the board from moving.
Looking at the last picture, and I'm sure you have already checked this, but does the boot lid close OK with the bars at that angle? From the image it looks like the left grip will be very close to the window.
The hook side of velcro on the bottom of the board would probably stop it moving *much*. I'm not sure lashing to fixing points would keep it that far back. Maybe some plastic clips that would sit over the boot lip, so when it's shut they get clamped down?
The simple solution perhaps is to get some thin and short ratchet straps and loop them round the lash point and then round the board?
That is what I've done. Not so much to stop a little sliding but due to my fear of what would happen should I crash
Velcro as mentioned.
Or..
Does the car have a false boot floor with a spare under it? If so why not fix the fork mount direct to it? It's going to be between 12-18mm thick, so sturdy enough. A couple of 6mm drill holes and nuts/bolts will be suffice. It can be left in at all times and if you sell, I reckon you'll not even notice its been drilled it you brush the pile
Velcro might work but I’d rather it was fastened in place.
Re the sizing, the boot does shut ok, the bike is as far to the back as it will go but there is probably scope to move it forwards a good four inch.
Strips of self-adhesive Velcro on the bottom would be fine - I used a piece of 4x2 with a couple of fork carriers for a few years
Just imagine how much it would hurt if a bicycle hit you on the back of the swede. Now have a good long think about a much more secure arrangement!
The bikes should be secure. There is a second pair of lashing points just behind the rear doors and I have a long ratchet strap which will go around the bottom of the seat tube and keep them from lunging forwards.
velcro?
Just checked, there is no false floor and the carpeted panel just lifts up easy so might ride up with the Velcro’d board.
In my van, I made a frame that goes into each corner. Ply cross members like yours front and back and full width with long wooden beams that run the length of the van. It's held together with bolts and thumbscrews for easy dismantling.
I did put slots for the load eyes to poke through, thinking I would put some wedges in for security, but gravity holds it down plenty, and of course the bulkhead means it won't spanner me in a crash.
Can put a photo on if that'll help.
I would think lashing the board with ratchet straps would work albeit it would work better if you can take the straps upwards over a block or something, and then back down to your lashing points.
Otherwise you're pulling in a fairly flat plane which won't be as secure as if you can pull down and across.
A bit like in this AI render.
A bit like in this AI render.
I saw on another thread people saying they missed Jamie but I think we've just found a replacement graphic artist. What are you like at rainbows? 🤣
😂 😂😂
Could you fix some webbing or ratchet etc straps to the ends of the plank, ones that are long enough to hang out the boot a bit, then shutthe boot on them to clamp them in position, (or use if they pull thru use a ratchet strap that can be hooked under the car etc and be tightened to pull the plank against the boot door. (Or go sideways out the sides of the boot door so you can tighten them around it from the outside
@kayak23s rendering has clarified exactly what I need to do. Wonderful visualisation.
velcro?
Yeah, 2” heavy-duty on a flat board isn’t likely to shift much latterly, I’ve got a felt boot-bag with a bunch of things like a tyre pump, and it has Velcro strips along the sides to grip the floor carpet, it really takes some pulling to get it out of the boot, there’s no way it’ll slide!
Otherwise the way to do it is a bit like how you tie a motorcycle down.
Use a webbing strap going from the bars, down to your lashing points. One each side. Nice and high angle of pull then. With suspension forks you compress them slightly as you tighten.
Otherwise the way to do it is a bit like how you tie a motorcycle down.
Use a webbing strap going from the bars, down to your lashing points. One each side. Nice and high angle of pull then. With suspension forks you compress them slightly as you tighten.
This (although I'd use the stem rather than the 'bars) and another strap through the back wheel, running back to the rear lashing points.
The lashing points in my van unbolt (M8 bolts) so mine is a cycle roof rack attachment bolted to the floor
The other possibility is the latch above the wheel arch for the rear seat. Strap to the seat post, but I can't see enough detail for that one
The issue with velcro is that, with continual removal, it's going to make the boot carpet fibres pull up.
You could put cheap boat shackles around the lashing points and then attach them to eyes that you have screwed into the edge either end of the board. it would be a solid as you like but easily removed with no damage to the carget.
Something like this:
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Luggage straps or a mechanical fastening. (i did both, but my rack was *much* bigger in the back of a van, and modular)
A big stop and velcro will just peel off with that weight up (relatively) high. Then you have a bike with a massive piece of wood attached to the forks, loose in the back of the car.
