I think I'm go...
 

  You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more

[Closed] I think I'm gonna need a bigger hammer.

16 Posts
12 Users
0 Reactions
59 Views
Posts: 13356
Free Member
Topic starter
 

Set away to change the front discs & pads on the car this morning, hoping to get done before the rain came. No hope, discs are well & truly stuck fast & I've been tapping them gently with a 2lb hammer for ages & now It's bloody raining!
So I've soaked the flange (fnarr fnarr) & I'll try again later (with a 7lb mash hammer)
I've got no access to any heat for it either!

Now I remember why I'm not an actual mechanic anymore as well.


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 12:31 pm
Posts: 36
Free Member
 

just drop it off the axle stand onto the disc 😀


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 12:34 pm
Posts: 13356
Free Member
Topic starter
 

just drop it off the axle stand onto the disc

*goes outside to drop the jack*

Cheers Stoner, I'd actually forgotten about that!


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 12:49 pm
Posts: 9
Free Member
 

Had this in the past, just keep at it, rotating the disc through 90 deg after every ****! with the hammer.
(You HAVE undone the disc retention screw(s) haven't you?)


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 1:17 pm
Posts: 3834
Free Member
 

Make sure there isn't a small set screw securing the disk to the hub. Light taps are no good, batter it to death but watch your ears.


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 1:20 pm
Posts: 36
Free Member
 

jeez, I wasnt being entirely serious!

Id put a block of wood the right thickness under the suspension arms to catch the car before the hub hits the deck though ..

(I had assumed he'd undone the locating screw...)


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 1:29 pm
Posts: 8652
Full Member
 

Never take mechanics advice from a man without a full set of fingers 🙂


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 1:33 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

They are usually stuck due to being rusted together.
I'd just keep tapping with a smallish hammer, but rotate regularly.
You will break the rust bond eventually.
Give the hub a good clean and coat with copper grease before you fit the new disc.


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 1:35 pm
Posts: 13356
Free Member
Topic starter
 

Thanks everyone!

Apart from being an ex prison officer (YEEHAA!) I'm also an ex motor mechanic. 😆

However, It's 'quite a while' since I did much spannering.

I wasn't tapping it, I was knocking 7 shades out of it. (can't get a proper good swing though)
There are no retaining bolts, just 2 grippy washers that hold on to the studs.
I'll leave it to soak in diesel overnight & try again otherwise It'll be along to the local garage to apply some direct heat (or put it on the ramp & use a mel)
I've changed loads of discs in my time but this one's a bar steward!


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 3:52 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

I'm sure you'll know this but... Angle grinder, cut a big notch as near to hub as you dare, chisel it to break disc off.


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 3:57 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Taking it round the block with them loose is another way....


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 4:02 pm
Posts: 3412
Free Member
 

Dead blow hammer is your firend for this. Spin and lamp is the way forward.


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 4:02 pm
Posts: 3834
Free Member
 

What car is it? Some have the disk fixed to the hub so the whole things needs to come off and the disk is unbolted from the hub at the back.


 
Posted : 07/11/2017 4:12 pm
Posts: 9
Free Member
 

freeagent - Member

They are usually stuck due to being rusted together.
I'd just keep tapping with a smallish hammer, but rotate regularly.
You will break the rust bond eventually.
Give the hub a good clean and coat with copper grease before you fit the new disc.


Not recommended as the grease heats up, runs out and then you have loose wheel nuts.


 
Posted : 08/11/2017 5:39 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

If your really unlucky sometimes the disc gets a substantial builup of rust (like lots) of rust directly behind the hub, but on the disc. If the clearance between the hub & the inside of the disc is quite small it's a right royal P.I.T.A.

Sometimes it's a grinder or nufink. Have a feel on the inside of the disc (not the disc face)obvs.

It's like pushing a 10mm nut through an 8mm spanner.


 
Posted : 08/11/2017 5:59 pm
Posts: 39
Free Member
 

Some discs have screw holes opposite the retaining screw holes (if that makes sense) which you can thread a bolt into and tighten up which will push the disc off. Best way is to put two in and tighten equally and it should free off.


 
Posted : 08/11/2017 8:56 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

The holes for the calliper, are they facing the disc?

If so, get a couple of nuts and bolts with a thread smaller than the threads of Caliper bolts so you don’t destroy the threads of calliper on the hub.

Feed the bolts and nuts and using a ratchet, gently push the disc off.

Have a look here

Did this with my old mans 15 year old discs...the holes were out of the way so I threaded a piece of metal plate mimicking the calliper and it worked.

Don’t walk too hard if you’re only using a jack and no axel stands.


 
Posted : 09/11/2017 7:19 am

6 DAYS LEFT
We are currently at 95% of our target!