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The Jazz (aka Jeff) is into the local garage for an MOT early next week, and I want to get four cross-season tyres stuck on at the same time. He's asked me what size they are so he can order them in, but the car itself is currently in at my neighbour's bodywork place getting some scratches sorted so I can't check myself. However, I've just rung my neighbour and asked him to have a look and he tells me they're 185/60-15 on the rear and 185/55-15 on the front.
Now, different widths I could understand, but different profiles, so the front wheels are smaller? Looking online it looks like Jazz's take a 185/60 or 185/55 'depending on trim', but you wouldn't mix and match would you?
so long as they are the same across axle its legal
people will buy what evers cheapest round and black especially on old cars.
Now, different widths I could understand, but different profiles, so the front wheels are smaller?
It's not out of the ordinary - my MG TF takes different size tyres front and rear (width and profile) - but it's unusual for a 'normal' car.
Put the reg into Black Circles and see what that throws up.
Put the reg into Black Circles and see what that throws up.
Yup, dead easy to check with any of the tyre websites
Put the reg into Black Circles and see what that throws up.
Black Circles - 185/60
Halfords - 185/60 and 185/55 (but not which is which)
Kwik Fit - 185/60
I even found the manual online, and it says 185/60 and 185/55, but not which is which.
Plus general online comments of 'depends on levels of trim'.
If I get 185/60 all round that can't cause any issues, surely?
That just means either size was type approved for the vehicle not that you should fit both.
Nope, find the cheaper size. I had a car years ago where the factory fit tyres were about twice the price of going to an alternative size that was approved, both the same rolling dia. Factory tyre was about 130-150 quid a corner, the tyres i got fitted were about £80, think it was a stock size on a golf or something. So tens of thousands of them sold. Also a *much* better tyre than the stock one. (Think they were over 200 quid in the stock size for the car)If I get 185/60 all round that can't cause any issues, surely?
Get a photo of the tyre info via WhatsApp
Usually inside the fuel filler/door shut
It may be that one profile was for alloys, the other for steel. It's a little odd that two profiles for the same width are recommended, but as both are within the recommended, definitely go for the cheaper size. I've had cars with odd sizes specific to the model, and the tyres are expensive.
We had a Yaris with 175 65 R15 tyres. Used the calculator and 185 60 R15 were much cheaper and were spot on on the circumference so made no difference to speedo rating. I was fitting Michelin tyres, but that size was far more common.
Just mullet it🤷
If buying 4 get 4 the same size.
Out of the choice of the 2 sizes, what ever is cheapest for the model of tyre you want.
That's what I'd do anyway.
It's not uncommon for cars to have an option like that.
The ones with the larger profile might be a more comfortable ride but there's not really much in it.
Cheers all, I'm going to go 185/60 all round.
So, next question, what cross climate tyres for a Honda Jazz? Difference between cheapy and premium seems to be about £40 a corner according to a quick Halfords search, so I can live with an extra £160-ish to get something decent.
The Michelin cross climates I have on my van at the moment were about twice the price of the Maxxis all seasons I had before. They have so far lasted more than twice as long and are still good. Don't just look at the purchase price
The car will have come with a range of sizes from factory.
I absolutely guarantee that the reason you have two sizes is that the person who looked it up on their 'system' when replacing the front tyres last time - used different data to the person who did the rears.
A Honda Jazz should not be on staggered sizes.
Go with the bigger/chunkier sidewall version. It'll make your gearing a touch longer and be more comfortable.
IMO, a few mid-range all seasons have caught up to the all conquering Michelin....We are running Kumho and Goodyear across two cars, and one of the older cars we had Rotalla which really surprised me how good they were.
I've been just as happy on Vredestein Quatrac and the GoodYear Vector 4 Seasons, previous gen and the new ones, as I have on Cross Climates.
I absolutely guarantee that the reason you have two sizes is that the person who looked it up on their 'system' when replacing the front tyres last time - used different data to the person who did the rears.
It's actually got three matching tyres (Conti somethings) and one odd cheapy one - we only got it in January but it failed an MOT on tyre wear for a previous owner and they changed the offending tyre. My slight concern is that it's the odd one that's literally the odd one out, but without being able to see the car itself I can't check.
Anyway, by Tuesday it'll have four matching tyres.
Hah, solved! I found the original Cinch listing, which has close-ups of the tyres, and the cheapy replacement is a different size to the other three (which are Michelin, my mistake)
Used 2019 RED Honda Jazz 1.3 i-VTEC S 5dr, 20,747 miles - cinch
Morons. I guess that would explain why the tyre pressure warning sensor never stays reset for long...
i-tpms. Looking at wheel speeds to detect tyre deflation, a continuously slightly faster rotating pair of tyres will confuse the hell out of it.I guess that would explain why the tyre pressure warning sensor never stays reset for long...
Those two tyre sizes will have different outside diameters which means two speedo readings (the speedo will read higher on the lower sapect tyres), how can that be legal/acceptable? When there are two options they are normally different aspect and width (and possibly wheel diameter) but have near identical outside diameters.
Those two tyre sizes will have different outside diameters which means two speedo readings (the speedo will read higher on the lower sapect tyres), how can that be legal/acceptable?
The difference is circumference is just under 2%, so I guess that's the difference in the speedo readings, which I guess would be within the required tolerance for accuracy
Those two tyre sizes will have different outside diameters which means two speedo readings (the speedo will read higher on the lower sapect tyres), how can that be legal/acceptable? When there are two options they are normally different aspect and width (and possibly wheel diameter) but have near identical outside diameters.
There is a difference but it's negligable...my old volvo v70 has two options too, I can't remember exactly what the differences were though... but it is legal as they are 'close enough'.
Here's a handy tool to make comparisons:
Then the answer is simple, change for the size on the other three tyres.
So, next question, what cross climate tyres for a Honda Jazz?
Michelin Cross Climates are great in the snow often beating some proper winter tyres but they are not a great all rounder tyre, especially a bit crap in the wet and aquaplaning tests.
Conti, Khumo, Goodyear, Pirelli all make tyres that are adequate in the rare occasion we (the UK) gets proper snow but are also very good over a range of conditions, wet, dry, cold, hot. Any of those would be in my opinion a better all rounder tyre and more suitable for the conditions majority of the UK gets ie cold and rainy and not so much snow.
https://www.tyrereviews.com/ is your friend.
Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen-3 on my Jazz all year round. Bit squirmy in the summer, but excellent in iffy weather.
I somehow bought XL versions on one set and they're a bit harsh on the front axle (quite crashy) but work well on the rear. Replaced them with the standard versions which seem much better.
the rare occasion we (the UK) gets proper snow
Repeat after me: the climate in Aviemore is different from Southampton, and all season tyres are generally much better than summer in conditions below 5*c and damp.
Michelin Cross Climates are great in the snow often beating some proper winter tyres but they are not a great all rounder tyre, especially a bit crap in the wet and aquaplaning tests.
Not so according to this:
https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre-Tests/2024-Motor-SUV-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm
I've got a Zoe on Cross Climate 2 XL and a Lodgy I lend to junior on Michelin Alpin 7. There's not much between them in dry snow but the Alpin is well ahead in wet snow. I strikes me that ADAC/TÛV tend to test in dry Scandanavian conditions which tend to flatter all-season tyres over proper Winters. The full Winters feel less sure on dry/wet roads but I soon adapt leaving more space to the vehicle in front, slowing more for bends - it's really not an issue because it's not a race. And they have buckets of feel so you're unlikely to inadvertantly push too hard.
Another absent in the tests is Verglas/black ice. The differences between Summer, all season and full Winter then become very apparent. A car on Summer tyres will slither down a hill completely out of control with the driver relegated to the role of spectator. On full Winters anyone taking care can drive down the same hill without sweat.
All these graphs are all very well but most road drivers rarely get anywhere near the limits as they bumble to work or cruise to a holiday destination. You get to know your car and tyres and drive accordingly. A 2CV is just as good at getting from A to B as something fancy if you use your head and adapt to its characteristics.
Michelin Cross Climates are great in the snow often beating some proper winter tyres but they are not a great all rounder tyre, especially a bit crap in the wet and aquaplaning tests.
Not so according to this:
https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre-Tests/2024-Motor-SUV-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm
I've got a Zoe on Cross Climate 2 XL and a Lodgy I lend to junior on Michelin Alpin 7. There's not much between them in dry snow but the Alpin is well ahead in wet snow. I strikes me that ADAC/TÛV tend to test in dry Scandanavian conditions which tend to flatter all-season tyres over proper Winters. The full Winters feel less sure on dry/wet roads but I soon adapt leaving more space to the vehicle in front, slowing more for bends - it's really not an issue because it's not a race. And they have buckets of feel so you're unlikely to inadvertantly push too hard.
Another absent in the tests is Verglas/black ice. The differences between Summer, all season and full Winter then become very apparent. A car on Summer tyres will slither down a hill completely out of control with the driver relegated to the role of spectator. On full Winters anyone taking care can drive down the same hill without sweat.
All these graphs are all very well but most road drivers rarely get anywhere near the limits as they bumble to work or cruise to a holiday destination. You get to know your car and tyres and drive accordingly. A 2CV is just as good at getting from A to B as something fancy if you use your head and adapt to its characteristics.
I wouldn't fancy my chances being T-boned by a modern car if I was driving a 2cv!
No idea why you ride a bike then.
No idea why you ride a bike then.
I don't ride a bike on the road if I can help it ... it's too dangerous IMO.
You replied just as I thought you might. 😉 Don't ever have sex again, far to risky if you are too risk averse to ride a bike on the road. 🙂
You replied just as I thought you might. 😉 Don't ever have sex again, far to risky if you are too risk averse to ride a bike on the road. 🙂
I'd call being too scared to change tyres within the official manufacturers specs, more risk adverse, personally, but... Errm...oookaaay 😆
😍
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I wouldn't fancy my chances being T-boned by a modern car if I was driving a 2cv!
My uncle got his 40 year old 2CV t-boned on a roundabout. Slow speed, so he was OK, but he'd done everything on that car, including a galvanized chassis swap. It was wrecked, sadly.
They are however awesome in the snow because the narrow tyres cut through to grippy surfaces and they're generally not torquey enough for a lot of wheel spinning.