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I'm hoping you lot can point me in the right direction to solve a few minor(?) issues I have with a Nissan Pathfinder, it's a 56 plate 2.5l diesel.
I wonder if some of the issues may be related but cars are getting so complicated now that I’m a bit lost. The issues are:
1-Cutting out at low revs (idle), this used to only happen when cold but it’s happening any time now. The engine appears to become unresponsive to the gas then a second or 2 later it cuts out.
2-Black smoke from the exhaust if booted in 2nd or 3rd gear. Recently passed its MOT emissions though.
3-Rattle from the engine at certain loads and revs. Difficult to tell exactly where from as it’s hard to replicate at the curb. Probably top of the engine. Sort of rattle, rattle, rattle (short pause then) rattle, rattle, rattle. Changes with revs, doesn’t sound like a heat shield.
4-Small oil leak – perhaps around the turbo (hard to see from above).
5-Central locking buzzes when the doors lock. Works ok though.
ODB2 reader shows no fault codes.
Possibly related is that the last guys to MOT it think that some time in it’s past the EGR valve may be blanked off, all present but with a blanking plate in the system.
Any ideas what’s causing these issues? Are they an easy fix for a garage? Will we die in a ball of flames?
Thanks for any help you can give me.
1, 2 and 4 could be related, or not at all... 3 - the rattle in the engine, could be a worn timing chain and/or worn tensioner, or it could be worn/faulty injectors. If an injector issue that could be causing 2 (cos sounds like its over fuelling). My previous Pathfinder had the engine rattle under load, and went away after 2500rpm - problem was worn injectors. Was advised that it wasn't really a major issue but won't be burning efficiently - considered sending them away for a refurb/clean up, but knew if they told me they were gubbed when they inspected that it'd be £1k to replace them... so ignored them. But I would say it sounds more like it's the timing chain. There's a duplex kit available if you choose to replace it which will last a shed load longer.
5 - solenoids probably about to give up - is it at all doors or just specific ones?
1 - this could be super simple, maybe just a very dirty airbox filter.
Good info, I'll check the airbox, that's easy enough for even me. I've also seen suggestions of MAF sensors around that area getting dirty.
Is there a simple way to find out if the rattle is the timing chain, injectors or lifters? I've seen lifters suggested elsewhere.
Timing chain sounds expensive....
From cold does the idle oscillate? So 600 to 800 like a yo yo?
Buzzing door acctuator. They're dogshit on all Nissan of that vintage.
Rattles a tough one. I've done a few chains. Could just be Diesel rattle though.
Have you asked to see if there has been any warranty notices?
PM your vin and I'll ask a mate.
(I worked for a Nissan dealer a few years ago)
While you are looking at the air filter, I'd be investigating the fuel filter too.
Does the rattle cause any vibration through the clutch, any deviation in clutch bite point, or rattle under load at low rpm? If so, it should be the flywheel breaking up.
Possibly related is that the last guys to MOT it think that some time in it’s past the EGR valve may be blanked off, all present but with a blanking plate in the system.
Did that on my old van with no I'll effects whatsoever over about six years. Unlikely to be the source of any of the problems. However, if you want to check it's a doddle, literally unscrew egr valve, remove blanking plate, screw back together again. No idea how east it is to get at on a Nissan though, on a Ford you just take an air intake pipe off and there it is underneath
Or EGR so clogged they think its blanked and ecu struggling to measure?
5 - Buzzing door lock. my 2010 Navara did this for the final few years (was recalled and written off for the chassis issue in 2019) as did a customer's Navara.
1-4...Have you checked the oil level, or has it ran low and hot previously? when was the last service and did they change the fuel filter which could be manky and starving fuel getting through, clean filters and oil are pretty important to diesel engines.
5...WD 40 on the door latches if the motor thing is audibly working overtime maybe?
Thanks for the suggestions.
To answer some of the questions posed above:
The RPM doesn't appear to change when at idle.
The rattle doesn't cause any feedback on the clutch. I probably should have said, according to the history I have (incomplete) the flywheel was changed 20,000 miles ago.
Oil level has once run low enough that it took a few seconds for the light to go out. Was topped up ASAP and has been checked evey couple of weeks since. I can't vouch for the previous owners.
Oil change and filter was done around 9 months ago, no idea when the fuel filter was last done. However i do know it's not an OEM filter as there's an electrical connection to the bottom of the origional filter that the current one doesn't have the water sensor connecton.
If it's a flat idle and no codes then change the filters.
I'd go genuine fuel filter. Had issues with aftermarket ones.
Reason I asked about the ossilation is they do the suction control valves, they dont always give a code. Tell tail sign is a wandering idle.
I'd call Nissan and ask them to run the Vin to see if there are any outstanding service campaigns on it as well.
I'm curious about the rattle, where is it coming from specifically and what's going on when you hear it?
If it was a Landy it would be new MAF, VCV and clean the turbo actuator and vanes.
MAF are cheap so replace if it’s old rather than just clean it.
VCV may require a re-learn, OBDII may have that option or it might do it itself.
Spray-into-turbo cleaner did well for me 👍
Sudden erratic power loss can sometimes be an overheat protection triggering limp mode (check the block temp sensors and coolant levels), can also be low fuel (or faulty sensor) to prevent injector starvation. Both will often re-set when the car is turned off/on (well in a Landy). But defo do MAF and VCV first.
Rattle in Landy = all is good, quiet = not working 👍