Help me cut off brake disc

Not a big enough hammer.

If you have a 20lb sledge you'll shatter the disk

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If you are going to resort to a cutting disc on a grinder don't be tempted to take the guard off for better access. Still got the scar from 30 years ago.

I would use a big nut and bolt and a lump of wood. Drill wood to accept some stud work. Screw on nut, add tubuler extension then unscrew nut. Need to be m12 plus really.

Big enough hammer should do it. I'm with trail_rat, just smash the f*ker.

Does it not have a couple of threaded M8 holes in it? Every car I’ve done had these - put an M8 bolt in each (they push against the carrier on the hub) and wind in until it pops the disc off

So we’re on the right lines…
Got a sledgehammer but no room to swing it hopefully got a puller coming with some heat and a hammer and the angle grinder with PPE! Wish us luck

Not wanting to insult, but. You have removed the countersunk retaining bolt haven’t you? 🫣

And failing that. Big **** off hammer as mentioned.

Thanks all we tried all things this afternoon
No CS screws in this design pushed with bolt from carrier at rear sheared the bolts🤯 bent others, heat n hammer again tomorrow should have gone in to garage in hindsight

I had to beat the heck out of mine with a big sledge, the scariest thing was if I missed and put a huge crease in the wing. I did some wacking from the back but you can get a much better hit from the front and it does the same job

Issue with taking to a garage is they would have the same issue as and probably just replace the hub.

If you are going to resort to a cutting disc on a grinder don’t be tempted to take the guard off for better access. Still got the scar from 30 years ago.

I'll never forget hearing about the guy who was DOA at our emergency department after a disc broke and pierced his chest when he wasn't using a guard.

When you're doing the heat, could also be worth getting some plumbers freeze spray on the hub.

I'd research the price of a used or new hub first. Sometimes you have to pick your fights.

Glad I read this thread. Need to do my rear disks. Will be letting the garage handle it now.

Not usually that hard tbh! But every job on a uk car can turn into a corrosion-fuelled bastard.

I reckon the solution here is simply more violence. But with access a problem, maybe some clever violence instead of just brute force. Rather than trying to grind it right off, maybe cut a slot into the bell that you can wedge a chisel into, adjacent to a stud hole where it's weakest- try and inittiate a split that way.

I reckon the solution here is simply more violence.

Generally is when dealing with old cars. Get a big hammer and hit it like you intend to hurt it. Little girlie taps won't do it, swing at it as hard as you possibly can.

drench it in WD40.

Sleep for 24/48 hrs.

Give it time to think 😀

Winter disc ontent
Half the job's done, you know it'll be painful when you're battering the alloy wheel off 🙂

Got an sds drill?
Whack a chisel bit on it and use the hammer function.
The intensity of the percussive hits might dislodge it instead of a single blow.
Obviously start on the lip as you gain leverage
Or try a large set of stillsons. Set them on the disc then apply force, something usually moves with enough persuasion

original discs on the family car did 10 years. several winter commuting seasons on salty roads.
Back side of discs had rusted out and effectively grown around the hub. there was no joy with considered persuasion with a sledge hammer so they got chopped off.
cut through them all the way one half of the braking surface then deep scored right across the hub face. lump hammer worked once I'd got most of the way through.
not a fun job, but cheaper than a new hub and the likely snowballing task that would have been

It's Ford so therefore designed by an utter **** with no consideration for future maintenance and if it's anything like my Transhit just buy a new hub and do the bearing whilst your at it because everything else will be as equally ****ed.

It’s Ford

I've a brother in law who's Puma did this back in the day.
He was 'applying some muscle' and realised it was coming off the stand. So jacked it, and went to move the stand. He couldn't see so had his thumb over the top of the stand to feel the underside of the car.
He has a nice scar all around his right thumb from the moment the car dropped...

Take care.

Any way to safely use the cars weight to load the disc?

Any way to get a bottle Jack braced against the cars structure and push the disk off?

It’s Ford so therefore designed by an utter * with no consideration for future maintenance and if it’s anything like my Transhit just buy a new hub and do the bearing whilst your at it because everything else will be as equally *.

Transit front discs are behind the hub, the bolt for which needs tightened to 450Nm! I suspect a pain in the bottom even without rust. I gave up last time and it to a garage. I mentioned that I might need new discs soon to the garage man when I was there for something else yesterday and his face visibly dropped

ahh i remember removing the rusty discs of an MG. using a hub puller they deformed into a lovely petal shape as i tried to wind them off.

took 2 days with a mallet after that.

proper releasing oil and let it think about what its done.

When I had this with my Spitfire's discs, I removed the screws holding the disc to the hub, refitted the wheel and did a bit of drive/brake stops to free it. Did 1 side at a time so had 1 brake working.

You can waste hours and risk damaging the car/yourself or just cut the disks with an angle grinder and thin disk.
Have a good look at the new disks to see how deep/far to cut , with a thin cutting disk its really fast to cut through the vented part so make two cut in a vee down to the root of the disk,
you do not have to cut all the way down , whack the segment with a hammer and it will crack off ,
then run a cut through the edge of the flange of the disk in the driveshaft direction - checking the new disk for how deep you can go - the segment that has gone should give you room.
Once the cut is made on that edge of the disk a whack on the remaining outer disk should crack the
inner flange to release it from the hub.

He couldn’t see so had his thumb over the top of the stand to feel the underside of the car.

And that is why you never put your fingers where you wouldn’t put your dick.

When I had this with my Spitfire’s discs, I removed the screws holding the disc to the hub, refitted the wheel and did a bit of drive/brake stops to free it. Did 1 side at a time so had 1 brake working.

That's a good idea. For the driven wheels anyway.

Question: when fitting new discs, should you fit new pads regardless of thickness? My rear discs are in bad condition but plenty of life in the pads. Thinking they may 'wear together' if that makes sense and so the worn pads might not sit flush on the new discs.

I've been told to always use new pads if fitting new discs.

Seems sensible. Thanks.

And that is why you never put your fingers where you wouldn’t put your dick

My 1st ever HSE briefing.

Stands you in good stead for life.

Fiestas on solid discs did this then the disc would burst off like the ring of saturn

Back side of discs had rusted out and effectively grown around the hub.

Had this on the van a couple of weeks ago, first time I'd ever come across it. Brute force eventually got one side of the disc moving then just kept rocking the disc(with added violence) until it broke free.

Finally all four discs fitted 😁😁
Finish that and north wind win top marks
We cut through disc with thin blade angle grinder finished off with hack saw just into hub area cold chisel into cut at outer edge tiny crack quickly appeared at stud hole and off it popped Any designer should be forced to complete some basic maintenance jobs on their designs or it stays on the bloody computer next jobs for ever more will be done in the garage thanks for replies