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So, whilst this lockdown has been in place, I've been staying with the girlfriend - lovely lass, but clearly starting to realise that I'm an annoying individual if more than 15 minutes is spent with me!
Anyway, the gutters have got masses of vegetation in them and I've been clearing them out...I haven't got them spotless but the stuff that is left is small and light enough to shift with some rain water. I'll need to do a regular plunge and clean of the bottom drain to get rid of all the bits that have fallen down so the blockage doesn't return.
The downpipe has been blocked for some time and it looks like there are a few hairline cracks in the pipe. Last night I got the blockage cleared about 10 years of stones and mud - an almighty slurp and then a massive SPLASH as it finally fell through the pipe (I cleared as much of the debris out the drain as possible rather than trying to sent it in to the main drainage system).
Anyway, the blockage has been there for a considerable time and the pipe has been overflowing and the side of the house is very damp (externally). The 'stuff' between the brickwork (cement? House is 130+ years old) has been removed in the bits that have been properly damp - what can i use to repack the gaps? Some look to be quite deep so it needs to be suitable to fill the space and remain - is there something like silicon sealant but for external walls? I'm not thinking expanding foam but also have absolutely no idea what it should be.
I'm also needing to fix the cast iron drainpipe cracks - I'm assuming I can use some kind of putty for that though - would that be right?
I clearly have spent all my life at an office desk so never had to bother with this, but I'm keen to try and sort this asI've been here for 6 months and I should be lending a hand with more than cooking/dishes/washing clothes!
The ‘stuff’ between the brickwork (cement? House is 130+ years old) has been removed in the bits that have been properly damp – what can i use to repack the gaps? Some look to be quite deep so it needs to be suitable to fill the space and remain – is there something like silicon sealant but for external walls? I’m not thinking expanding foam but also have absolutely no idea what it should be.
Mortar. You can buy premixed tubs from Screwfix.
I’m also needing to fix the cast iron drainpipe cracks – I’m assuming I can use some kind of putty for that though – would that be right?
If it's hairline cracks then I wouldn't worry overly about it and just give it a coat of paint.. If they're any bigger then you can effect tempoary but ugly repairs using flashband but it'll probably need replacing. Cast iron pipework is virtually impossible to repair effectively.
If you really don't have a clue what you're doing, get a man in.
Thanks for that...so the premixed mortar will just need to be pushed in to the gaps and packed down so it is nice and tight, then it sets (I assume)?
Also, I'm assuming this should all be put in place on dry stonework? If so, I reckon it'll be at least a week of no rain before the wall is dry.
I suspect the downpipe should probably be replaced as I think there will be more than 1 hairline crack...but now the blockage is away, it probably won't really be an issue as the crack is a 1/3 of the way up the pipe and away from the where the blockage started.
Happy to get someone in who knows what they are doing, but also hoping that the job is straightforward enough that I should be able to do it (I've taken things apart and rebuilt, so I'm not a complete luddite, just no experience of this particular thing).
I may end up posting up asking for advice on how to rebuild an external wall after it strangely collapsed...but I'm hoping not!
Thanks for that…so the premixed mortar will just need to be pushed in to the gaps and packed down so it is nice and tight, then it sets (I assume)?
Pretty much. Just rake out any loose stuff first. if you want a decent finish, try not to get it on the face of the brick if you can help it and use a brick jointer to recess the face of the mortar.
Also, I’m assuming this should all be put in place on dry stonework?
Is it brick or stone? If it's stone you'll maybe need a lime mortar. You can't buy that at Screwfix.
Ideal thanks...gaps are big enough to get my fingers in - old sandstone stonework...and the brick jointer will make sure I can get the mortar all the way in to the back of the gap.
Thanks for the pointers and advice.
This suitable? Says it has plasticisers and lime included - https://www.screwfix.com/p/tarmac-blue-circle-mortar-grey-5kg/96810
old sandstone stonework
In which case, don't use cement based mortar, it'll end up ruining the stone. You'll need a lime mortar which is softer and water permeable.
Brick / cement mortar is designed to keep water out.
Sandstone / lime mortar is supposed to get wet and dry out.
If you use cement mortar on sandstone it traps water inside which then freezes and cracks the stone.
A gross oversimplification but you get the idea.
If it's stone don't use premix as above listen to PP.
Pointing up brick or stone isn't as easy as you think.
Have a look on YouTube for some how to Vids
Drain pipe I'd flap disk the old paint off over the cracks and use a epoxy putty then flap that back to seal them then a few coats of paint.
I'd be double checking that the blue circle stuff is suitable for sandstone, I doubt it's the best solution. Our house is pretty old and had previous pointing done with a cement mix and it just causes the sandstone to crumble - something to do with the cement trapping water in the stonework I think. You really need a NHL grade lime mortar mix, it helps the walls breathe. I used NHL 2.5 to repoint a wall at ours but that was after discussing with the supplier (Mason's Mortar iirc) and you should try to colour match as well, they sell colour additives that you just mix in.
Excellent advice folks...I'll do a phone round and chat to a few suppliers and see what they recommend and probably get a guesstimate of cost for a professional to sort it - I'm happy to try it but really don't want to mess up the type of mortar used that'll cause more damage.
Pointing (that’s the word you’re looking for) stonework is also a bit of an art. Assuming you’re not doing the whole wall, you’ll need to try and match the style of the original (as well as the colour, etc.) which would be easier with prior experience. Might be best to get a local man/woman in who will know what type of sand, etc. will give the best match to the existing.
you can get a pointing gun if its fairly deep (like a big sealant gun) - rather than poking it all the way back there yourself with a knife..
Yeah, get a mortar gun to inject the mortar in properly, also when removing the old stuff you really do need to get it out properly, not just a dust off, but getting in there with loose stuff and chiselling out as much as you can if it's in a poor state.
Mortar gun what a waste of money, you may use it once then bin it. The mortar would have to be like full fat whippin cream, fine sand and probably do your fingers in as you squeeze then it jams due to some grit
A bag of Tradiblanc £20 with sharp sand, make a hawk from a bit of ply 300x300 with a handle maybe wee sides to stop the mortar escaping seeing as it's your first time
Only thing is it comes in 35kg bags, you can maybe point your gable end at the same time
You get a nice colour of mortar, wait until it goes off then a stiff brush with a £3 stiff brush from b&q
I've re read this 3 times in case I've missed them, but I can't see any double entendres in reply and the OP was loaded with possibilities.
Or just get some of this: https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product/lime-mortar/
@DickBarton - I've just had some folk point ours and neighbours houses for very reasonable fee. Want a number?
You can get lime mortar from builders merchants - premixed dry like the cement. Ask for Baumit.
Hi @matt_outandabout, yes please to the number...been busy yesterday afternoon and evening so just getting back to this thread - plenty links and pointers to check as well - thanks folks.
Reading up on all this, I'll get someone who knows what they are doing...happy to give this a bash but it does sound like it could go properly wrong and I really don't fancy that.
I’ve re read this 3 times in case I’ve missed them, but I can’t see any double entendres in reply and the OP was loaded with possibilities
If you really don’t have a clue what you’re doing, get a man in.
just dont introduce him to your girlfriend 😉
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-lNi8z0MNrbR53_gQYzYlxWkW_aczAKR/view?usp=drivesdk
Tradiblanc with concrete sand pointin
I’ve re read this 3 times in case I’ve missed them, but I can’t see any double entendres in reply and the OP was loaded with possibilities.
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I’ve been staying with the girlfriend
...
I’ll need to do a regular plunge and clean off the bottom
If you really don’t have a clue what you’re doing, get a man in.
Cement mortar on a 130-year old house is a fast-track to damp problems. Don't do it.
I'll second the tradiblanc and sharp sand (concrete sand). It's a lime and white cement mix if I remember correctly.
Get a trowel and a pointing key (b+q) do both for around £7 each.
Watch some repointing videos.
Once thectradiblanc has gone off (after a few hours) but before it's properly hard, give it a scratch over with the pointing key and it'll age it nicely. I've been told it allows a better flow of water out too.
I'll get someone in to do it properly...the better half has also pointed out that I don't actually live there so I'm not getting the chance to make it fall down! Although she seems happy that I give the gutter and downpipe a good clean every 6 months (I wish that was a double entendre as well!).
The blanc gives it away it's white , it does have a wee bit of cement in it but in Scotland the weather can be pretty harsh in the winter . Weekend warriors pay for a weeks pointing/stone repair then call themselves artisan stone specialists but very little practical experience. Never let a roofer /rough caster loose on your stonework, 3:1 mix with waterproofing/retarder is strong and very grey the only mix they know
Although she seems happy that I give the gutter and downpipe a good clean every 6 months (I wish that was a double entendre as well!).
Every 6 months? That's not a girlfriend, that's a wife. Don't ask how I know 🙁