Focus diesel wont start properly -engine malfunction

At 11.5v that battery is beyond ****ed.

Remove that massive smoking gun from the system entirely. Low voltage batteries make modern cars do wierd shit

I did hit it but it made no difference,

Apart from probably making it worse if it was already weak.

The easy fuel thing is only a flap on the filler nozzle, just push it open with the bottle neck. It won't help a non-starting problem though, because it won't have time to work it's cleaning magic.

As above, 11.5v is very low, if it's got a bad cell it could still be pulling down the overall voltage available to the ECU when you jump it, so get it replaced before trying anything else.

Edit: some cars have a plastic spout with the jack/tyre sealant that opens the fuel flap so you can fill up from a jerry can easily.

(except usual EGR ones(egr stuck open/closed etc etc))

Does the EGR need a clean?

Easy with brake cleaner and a toothbrush (just don't go within 500 metres of your carpet, it's a mucky job!)

I did order a new battery an hour before i tried starting it.
And was trying to install EGR blank plate at weekend but couldnt see how/where to put it.

Could be anything. The EML is saying there's a fault, you need codes read to work out what.

you need codes read to work out what.

That'll be forscan then.

For the filler / additive.
My (newer) Kuga has an anti syphon filler. I tried to tip a bottle of additive in using the neck of the bottle to shift the plate etc... and piiished half of it down the side of the car.
I got the plastic filler pipe off a 5 litre petrol can and shoved that in the filler hole. Then tipped the bottle down that to get it in the tank rather than over my hands and feet.

I wouldn't try changing the fuel filter until it's running again, as that is just likely to add to problems.

There shouldn't be any EGR faults, so I'd be removing the EGR pipe to see if it'll run, as a stuck open EGR valve could cause those symptoms.
Other common cause of only trying to start, and producing some white smoke, is the turbo seized, but that isn't usually an overnight thing. That's usually a spluttering to a halt kind of thing.

Starting point for me is a live data check for the basics. Air going in (MAF reading, and MAP not showing a vacuum). Fuel pressure being built (injectors need a minimum 100-150bar to operate). Crank/Cam spinning and synchronising.
That then tells you where to look, rather than playing parts darts and potentially creating extra/compounding faults.

And was trying to install EGR blank plate at weekend but couldnt see how/where to put it.

blanking it will just cause you a load of other problems.

My 14 year old S-Max is a pig to start and chuffs loads of white smoke until its lumpy idle has settled down.  Glow plugs are knackered but I can't get them to budge and don't want to snap one off.  To be fair it's probably ready for the scrap man so just putting up with it

egr was replaced, but egr values were not relearnt. i dont see anything but positive, on the web, re blanking it off
cant get live data if its not running

cant get live data if its not running

You can with decent kit.

Out of curiosity, does the turbo look new?

Out of curiosity, does the turbo look new?

+1 IIRC this is the PSA/Ford 1.6 used in Berlingo's etc. This age are renown for clogging the turbo oil feed and killing it.

There's a complex involved flushing sequence needed for refitting a new turbo which most places don't bother doing which then kills the turbo a short time later.
If yours had a new turbo before the previous owner ditched it then that will be the problem.

i dont see anything but positive, on the web, re blanking it off

LOL.

Same way all tuning boxes give an extra 50 bhp and 150 Nm of torque and don't do ANY damage to anything AND give better emissions.

And the manufacturers can't detect that they've been used.

Don't blank the EGR, it's important. Not least because you will be spewing out more toxic gasses everywhere you drive for people to breathe in.

Sounds like your EGR valve is stuck open?

But as already been mentioned always start at the battery

Did you remove anything when trying to fit blanking plate?

and how do you get the fuel additive into the fuel tank? Its got a plate on which you need a diesel pump nozzle to open

There should be a little black funnel in the glovebox or with the jack etc in the boot.

or you can get one from amazon etc
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ford-diesel-fuel-funnel/s?k=ford+diesel+fuel+funnel

11.5v, that'll be dropping sub 9v when cranking, shutting the ECU off.

Engine needs fuel and air, so would change these.

Would also be checking for any boost leaks and whether the boost pressure sensor is reading correctly, if the boost pressure doesn't rise when more fuel is added (more throttle), then it won't add any more.

no signs of it being a new turbo.
Rusty Nissan- smae engine as berlingo? which used to require frquent oil changes? (also " complex involved flushing sequence needed for refitting a new turbo"- what/how? Ive to fit a new turbo to my audi if I canever get the last 2 bolts off it)

A new EGR was fitted 3years ago, but lots of fault codes for it still. Dont know if previous owner just lived with that.
I was going to fit the blank plate,but couldnt remove the shield under the wipere for access, and coulddnt see where to put the plate, so ddidnt touch it.
So could the EGR suddenly done this to me?
I have given it the italian tune
New battery has arrived!
But yes its snowing here

So to rexap engine starts,wont idle, dies, and ENGINE MALFUNCTION light comes on

PCB dry joints are common, I hope its not that.

Amongst other things, I had that on my '06 with the same engine. It manifested as intermittent engine dying over bumps, but only in warm weather. Auto electrician fixed for 120 quid. 6 months later it threw an idler pulley on the cam belt and the engine ate itself to an uneconomic extent for repair.

Great engine, poorly implemented and throttled by 1st gen pollution abatement kit.

I've had issues recently with water in the diesel filter and sensor. 1.6hdi Peugeot so same engine.

I kept resetting the fault code, draining the filter but it would re appear and stop the engine starting.

Changed the filter but didn't screw the sensor in full so it won't detect. Seems to have cured it.

May be the same on yours

I unplugged the EGR, it started but died again
I put a new fuel filter in, it started and ran a while, then back as it was before.
Now im cleaning the MAF sensor
Fault codes are all EGR related.
when the snow/rain/hail stops i'll replace it, but i dont know what to try next.
Guess I'll try forscan again

Fuel pump would be my guess. If it cranks over fine, then catches and subsequently wont idle. Doubt it will be egr as im pretty sure it doesn't do anything till the engine has some warmth in it and is driving on light throttle.

Unless it's stuck open.
That can make it a bit of a bugger to keep a cold engine running.

If the EGR has failed open, it can suffocate the engine and give the symptoms described. But so can anything else that restricts the air intake, or exhaust, such as throttle body stuck closed, turbo seized, exhaust blocked etc.

Fuel pump is unlikely as it's at least trying to start, which signifies enough fuel pressure is being built for the injectors to operate, but sometimes air in the system can cause similar symptoms, but the vehicle would usually eventually start, or attempts at firing would diminish.

It could also be a failed sensor, which is why live data is so important for diagnosis. Without it, you're just taking guesses at potential problems.

Did we fit a functioning battery yet ?

As long as there is enough life in the battery to crank these engines at a semi-reasonable speed, they'll usually start.
The fact it at least tries to fire, indicates there is enough power for the engine ECU to do what it needs to do. Plus the fact doubling up with a second battery didn't make any difference, pretty much rules out a battery issue.

You're probably correct @mc but It's that non linear region of transistors operation that make things seem haunted!

The MAF sensor is back in, I was about to start her up and run Forscan, but I had left hte key in the front of the bonnet, and leant on it,and broke it.
I dont recall having a spare. Tomorrow I'l TIG weld it if I can. Do you know if its possible to tig keys? or what material keys are made of?

was going to clean the MAP sensor too but the light at the end of the tunnel has run out

You’re probably correct @mc but It’s that non linear region of transistors operation that make things seem haunted!

The big thing is non-critical ECUs have fairly poor resilience against fluctuating voltages, and are often designed to simply reboot during a sudden power dip, which is where the randomness comes from, as different ECUs will handle other ECUs not doing what they should differently.

The more Critical ECUs have much better protection, and things like the engine ECU is designed to do it's best to start the engine once it's received a valid start signal, even if most other modules have simply given up on life when the starter has kicked in.

In terms of diesel engine ECUs the main concern is the point at which the voltage boosting for the injector powering can't generate enough voltage (typically 60-80V). Certain ECUs this is actually quite high (the original Fiat 1.3 CDTI was around 10V, but most are 8-9V), but for most it's around the point the battery is starting to noticeable struggle to crank the engine. Even if the voltage does dip too low, the capacitors still hold enough charge to fire the injectors for a second or so, which under most circumstances is enough to take the load of the battery and let the system voltage increase enough for the voltage boosting circuit to kick in again.

Do you know if its possible to tig keys? or what material keys are made of?

I can't comment on type of material, but I certainly wouldn't even attempt it with the key electronics anywhere near.

the metal part separates ok, though it seems like chrome plated monkey metal

Just go and get a new blade cut at Timpsons!

I think the key material may be brass, from distant memory (I had a similar vintage Mondeo and I recall the key wore with 10 years of use, and the plating had worn off).

If it's this sort of key
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ePathChina%C2%AE-Reaplacement-Button-Remote-Mondeo/dp/B01MFHD9GZ

I tried the tig on a spare key but it just melted.
Cant get silver solder in this town but fortunately there is just enough key left to open the door and switch ignition on.
Loads of videos on youtube show an instrument cluster fault on this car, confirmed in part by communication error DTCs, of which i have many
so this weekend i shall mostly be tryingto find and solder dry joints

Our 2010 Petrol Focus packed up recently - engine malfunction message and various other lights and warnings.

Local (trusted) garage is pretty sure it’s an instrument panel fault so it’s been sent off to get fixed. 350-ish quid I think they quoted.

Resoldered dash went back in, but now it wont turn over, no click, or nothing.
Is that because of the immobiliser?
I tried to start it with dash disconnected, but just the same

I would imagine that trying to weld metal right next to electronics with a RF receiver aerial (such as the one your immobiliser or central locking uses) has probably generated a high voltage in the aerial and fried the insides.

He didnt .
He tried to weld another key and melted it in the process.
Now we are into looking for dry joints in the dashboard,before sending it away for a BBA reman unit.
As we are playing parts darts Im going to suggest faulty ignition switch or imobiliser. With the key cranked against the spring it will churn over and catch , release the key and it dies could be a wiring issue on the permanent feed from the back of the switch
When you said it was sluggish below 2000rpm in the Original post , How sluggish ?

originally it was just abit too slow until the turbo kicked in, berlingo kind of slow

It looks like i fixed the instruments, as the only fault codes now are for anti-theft/PATS
so hopefully I can clear the fault codes and the immobiliser system will not prevent it from starting.

I dont see how the broken key will stop it from working as long as i can turn it.
Is it possible to remove the ignition barrel and start it, with the key in?

Barrel used to fitted with shear bolts , so fairly tricky to remove.
The broken key head will have an rfid tag in it , the size of a large grain of rice . This talks to the barrel and allows the car to start. No head on key = no start. At least for quality cars ( Volvo - Merc )

isnt the rfid tag(??) in the key body, not the metal blade, so i can braze it safely?

Tape old key body to your new key body

Try to start it that will mean the RFID gubbins are in the right place before you go messing more.

Any developments?

no, I still havent been able to clear the P1260 fault code
I hope to get a new key tomorrow

I got a new key, now all seems to be working.
this - *RFID gubbins are in the right place*

bit of a painful lesson learnt- a week off work

Fair play to you alric,  very persistent. No way I'd have been so dedicated to it.

thanks, but necessity is the mother of something, i didnt really have any choice.

And what about the ordinal fault, did the new battery sort it out?

The original battery seemed fine,was running well but there seemed to be some kind of voltage drop overnight, but as it was after the first really cold night that it didnt run properly, i got the new battery, the old one was worn out.
The instrument cluster is a common fault, there were dry joints on it, i did get fault codes implying non or faulty communications between units, which have gone now, so the instrument cluster must have been a problem