[Closed] Fixing loads to roof bars

If you can get an old door, put that on bars first this will provide a flat surface, mate put my bike on roof many years ago and pedal dented roof quite badly.

Also cover bike with old blanket and tuck under door and then rope it down, remeber to loop over front of rack and bike, because in the case of an emergency stop the door plus bike may carry on after the car has stopped.

Rope it perfectly good for the job, you just need to use it properly.

Learn how to tie a dolly. Nothing will move.

Old door or similar - not a bad idea.

If I had more time and spare bits of 2x4 I might try bolting that to the bars longtitudinally with end and side stops.. Apparently 'load stops' is the term for what I need but they are chuffing expensive for a bit of bent metal.

I like those big ratchet straps.

pipe cladding. cam straps.

It's the pattern of straps that needs to be decided. Simply ratcheting it up does nothing if not positioned properly.

Load stops are quite good

[IMG] [/IMG]

Rope is fine, I'd use ratchet straps because I have them or ROK straps

nealglover - Member

Rope it perfectly good for the job, you just need to use it properly.

Learn how to tie a dolly. Nothing will move.

That's what I was going to say as well.

Great knots for tying down loads.

Amazingly, the haulage industry largely exists on rope, chains and strops.

Tie rope to the front bar, put the load on, bring rope over the front of the load, over the top, then tie off on the back bar somewhere. Load stop right there.

Amazingly, the haulage industry largely exists on rope, chains and strops.

Probably cos they've lost all their ratchet straps, which are strewn across carriageways nationwide.

I didn't know the haulage industry tied stuff to the top of cars!

I've used some straps [url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tiki-Rubber-Link-Luggage-Straps-/261528684767?pt=UK_Surfing&hash=item3ce45308df ]like these[/url]for years and they have been great. No loads have ever slipped or moved when using them that includes overloaded with Ikea flat pack.
£15 for 2 is a bit pricey though as I paid about that for 8 from Costco a while ago.

You'll be amazed how far you can actually drive without a load tied securely onto the roof .

I didn't know the haulage industry tied stuff to the top of cars!

They don't, but I bet anyone who's worked in the haulage industry could fix a bike bag to a roof rack with 10m of para chord in about 45 seconds and it wouldn't move a mm.

You could undo it all with one hand, just as fast as it went on.

And they wouldn't get any knots in the rope either 😉

And that's what happens when you do something for a living - you get good at it 🙂

Is your bike insured whilst strapped to the roof of a vehicle ?

And that's what happens when you do something for a living - you get good at it

But the haulage industry doesn't tie stuff to the top of cars. So why would they get good at it ?

That was your earlier point wasn't it ?

molgrips, a car thread and a bike lashed to the top of a car. What could possibly go wrong? 🙂

As above, rope is fine. We used to load whole trailers of rowing boats without any kind of ratchet straps because the guy who did the driving reckoned they'd damage the boats. BS of course but it certainly makes the point that it's not necessary.

[img] [/img]

But the haulage industry doesn't tie stuff to the top of cars. So why would they get good at it ?

Touche!

The thread was about aids to securing a load narrower than the bars. Load stops are what I want, but I'm not paying that price so I'll manage with rope.

I'll manage with rope

Learn to tie a dolly then 😉

[img] [/img]

You'll be amazed how far you can actually drive without a load tied securely onto the roof .

Most of my life I've driven without a load tied securely onto the roof.

Have to say, I've not been amazed as of yet.

[quote=nemesis ]As above, rope is fine. We used to load whole trailers of rowing boats without any kind of ratchet straps because the guy who did the driving reckoned they'd damage the boats. BS of course but it certainly makes the point that it's not necessary.

Though looking at that pic, you appear to be using non-ratcheting straps rather than rope - something like [url= http://www.surfdome.com/Mystic_Straps_-_Mystic_Black_Roof_Rack_Strap_-_3.5mtr-130509 ]this[/url] which is what I've always used for securing kayaks and other loads on roofracks. Far easier to secure a load than with ropes.

FWIW I'd not use ratcheting straps to secure lightweight shells either, as you could easily tension them enough to cause damage - I'd not use them to attach lightweight kayaks for similar reasons, though I usually use [url= http://www.kirtonkayaks.co.uk/home/index.php/shop/shop-racks/128-bungee ]bungees[/url] to secure those 😉

Why doesn't the top loop of that knot pull straight out?

Why doesn't the top loop of that knot pull straight out?

The loop and the rope that goes round it are pulling in opposite directions
I've seen some people put a double wrap around the loop

If you don't have a hook to put the big loop over - ie mid roof bar - you need to hang onto the knot with one hand and unthread it, wrap it around the bar and then re-thread it.

voodoo magic, man

The loop and the rope that goes round it are pulling in opposite directions
I've seen some people put a double wrap around the loop

I always double wrap the top loop, and double twist on the middle loop too, although I don't think it's really needed, just the way I was taught.

Learn to tie a dolly then

Truckers hitch is the way to do it:

&Website=www.animatedknots.com

Marko

The loop and the rope that goes round it are pulling in opposite directions

No, the top of that knot (just to the left of where is says "direction of pull") is just a loop passing through another loop. Isn't it? If you load that knot it'll just pull apart, surely?

I thought that too Cougar...unless that loop (passing through the other loop) is tied on to something? 😕

Well, it obviously doesn't pull apart as long as tension is maintained

The loop is being pulled down and also being strangled by the bit that wraps around it - pulling against each other
The piece of rope doing the strangling is also binding on itself so the more you pull it, the tighter it gets.

Just try it, you'll see then

I'm unconvinced.

But I'll dig out a climbing rope and try it at some point.

Well, it obviously doesn't pull apart as long as tension is maintained

And we're advising mol to use this?

Ahahahahaha
ahhhhh...hahahaha...

Ok, I'll give it a whirl too...or, actually, no, I'll just wait for Cougar to give it a try. 🙂

I'm unconvinced.

But I'll dig out a climbing rope and try it at some point.

Now I'm not a climber and can't really say I've ever handled climbing rope
But the knot above needs quite a rough rope, it'll still work with rope that's smoother but it's a bit more difficult as you have to hold it together a bit more until it's tight.

And we're advising mol to use this?

Not me, I advised straps 🙂

And we're advising mol to use this?

Are you questioning my general skill and competence?

BTW that knot diagram up there looks left handed to me

[i]looks left handed to me [/i]

It's for t'other side of the car

I don't quite follow the point of that knot. It looks as if it's just a way of building in a 2:1 mechanical advantage with a lot of rope friction? So really just a way of tightening the rope and locking it off?

What molgrips is after is a knot that will act as an load stop - something more like a clove hitch around the roof bar. I would do something like:
-clove hitch at side of load on front bar
-round the back the load and clove hitch to front bar on the other side
-over the load to other side of front bar
-back over the load to rear bar, clove hitch
-over the load to other side of rear bar, clove hitch
-round front of load and back to rear bar
so the load had clove hitches stopping it sliding sideways, and loops round front and back to stop it moving back or forward.
If threading all that rope through the knots is tiresome, start in the middle and/or cut it and use shorter bits.

Talk about making a mountain out of a molehill. Its a bike FFS. You can't get much more lumpy with sticky out things. A few rubber bands made from motorbike inner tube or a couple of Velcro straps will hold it. Bit of climbing rope, 9mm is best, does wonders. Just use a clove hitch. Strapped many a canoe or 10 foot surfboard with just that. Never shifts.

Big **** off zip ties is what I use. Obviously you need loops or similar on the load.

Talk about making a mountain out of a molehill.

I asked for some tips, I got some - no problem. I'm not making a mountain out of anything!

Its a bike FFS. You can't get much more lumpy with sticky out things.

It's going to be in a bag, which will make it a rectangular thing with a low-fricton surface...

Just buy some ratchet or load straps

Have a set from aldi/lidl that are great. Also have some from ikea

Think alpkit sell some?

I don't quite follow the point of that knot.

Industry standard knot for securing loads.

It looks as if it's just a way of building in a 2:1 mechanical advantage with a lot of rope friction? So really just a way of tightening the rope and locking it off?

So you do understand the point of it then. 🙂

Point is I can't just use ratchet straps around it. It'll slide all over te place

I'm thinking perhaps straps around the back, and then tie rope through the straps to the roof bars...

[quote=molgrips ]Point is I can't just use ratchet straps around it. It'll slide all over te place

You're bothered about the low-friction surface? Bit of camping mat between the bars and the bag (which has other advantages too).

Is this still going?

This is for a shot trip? So you could have made two trips in the time you have spent worrying about it?

Just stick it on the roof and do this with rope or ratchet straps:

Place bike bag flat on top of both roof bars

tie to front roof bar, pass sideways over bike bag and wrap around roof bar and then back over to the first side and tie off. Keep the straps close to the load so they and the roof bar form a rectangle round the load.

do the same for the rear one.

Then run a line from the front roof bar over the bag, wrap it round the back one and then under the bike bag back to the front. Then run another and space them out.

Tighten all straps/ropes and run them through any handles etc. No problem with using a couple of long straps to do a couple of runs but make sure they are free to tighten all the way along.

Don't be tempted to diagonal straps as they often let the load twist out, just stick with a nice grid pattern.

I would have had this done in seconds without thinking about it with some straps and baler band.

Or you could just wrap the whole thing in duct tape to the roof rack and cut it off when you get there 😀

Why does everyone think someone posting a thread means they're in some kind of frantic panic?

I would have had this done in seconds without thinking about it with some straps and baler band.

What a hero. But thanks for the tips I will read and digest 🙂

Your method relies on friction between the rope and bar to stop it moving sideways, yes?

What a hero.

Thanks for the insult 🙄 my point is there is no need to overthink it. Just go out and try it and see what's like - ie I would go strap it down in the standard directions without giving it much/any thought and then check how secure it is and put any extra straps/rope on as needed in addition to the ones in the main directions.

regarding friction - yes. When you pull it all nice and tight you will be surprised how much friction there is between everything. Keep it simple and avoid trying to do too much with a single run (ie don't wrap around this, that and the other and then try and tie it off as you won't get good tension). If you try to angle the straps to the ends of the roof rack the load will slide around. Keep the straps tight around it.

Which bars have you got? Most have some sort of rubber coating or grip strips which helps

just go out and try it and see what's like

I will, on Thursday when I'm home 🙂

I've got Whispbars, cannot remember the weight. Very aero.

PS if you do use ratchet straps (I would) then make sure you know what they are pressing down on and they can't crush the load. Also make sure they cannot slip down to a thinner part of what you are strapping down as they will then lose tension and check any loads shortly after setting off as things can settle.

there is no need to overthink it

That is the very reason for his existence. Molgrips; going to the far end of a fart in everything he does.

Ropes are fine, as are straps. I have more problems with straps.
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4119/4888499961_0ae18271f5_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4119/4888499961_0ae18271f5_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/8rYQJ6 ]Etive[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/people// ]matt_outandabout[/url], on Flickr