Fitting engineered ...
 

  You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more

[Closed] Fitting engineered oak T&G flooring

11 Posts
9 Users
0 Reactions
101 Views
Posts: 2095
Full Member
Topic starter
 

so after some help on here finding suppliers, i'm cracking on with fitting this tomorrow

has anyone got any top tips for me? In particular i'm not clear on what bit of the tongue or groove i put the glue (if it matters) instructions say work left to right with groove to the wall but very vague about glue placement

i'm floating it over a new chipboard floor which is in turn floated over PIR insulation, DPM and concrete.

 
Posted : 17/09/2020 7:50 pm
Posts: 77347
Free Member
 

At that price I reckon I'd be budgeting for a sacrificial extra pack to use for practice in the shed first.

 
Posted : 17/09/2020 8:11 pm
Posts: 1957
Free Member
 

Underlay?

 
Posted : 17/09/2020 8:31 pm
Posts: 77347
Free Member
 

 
Posted : 17/09/2020 8:39 pm
Posts: 2095
Full Member
Topic starter
 

cougar - this room is only 3.6 x 2.3 (study) so its sort of the test run before i commit to 80m2 for the kitchen and dining room

BlindMelon - basic foam stuff that came with it. didnt bother with the fancy gold plated shizzle as i know my DPM is all good

 
Posted : 17/09/2020 8:41 pm
 colp
Posts: 3322
Full Member
 

Cut a small V shape on the glue nozzle and run it along the tongue.

 
Posted : 18/09/2020 12:03 am
Posts: 1047
Free Member
 

Think about where best to start and finish. I think this depends on how you will deal with the edges.

If with a beading then probably less important where you start but if you’re putting new skirting on then you probably want to start from the door so you can tuck it under the architrave.

I’m no expert though.

 
Posted : 18/09/2020 1:13 am
Posts: 299
Free Member
 

I work with the tongue edge facing away. Left>right seems more natural but depends on you boards/room config.
Take the loose next row board and tilt up a little and squeeze a line of glue along the groove then slide it onto the tongue of the board that's already down.
Less glue ooze that way. Use a decent t&g glue though!
Blue painters tape to keep things together.
Offcut of your last board is starter for your next. Stagger your joints and watch the manufacturers joint offset minimums. Aim to have none of the first boards being the same length so you don't end up with a repeating pattern.

 
Posted : 18/09/2020 6:33 am
 dti
Posts: 532
Free Member
 

Just keep a damp rag on hand to wipe the excess. Spray cork is a good edging if you’re not replacing the skirting.

 
Posted : 18/09/2020 7:46 am
Posts: 520
Free Member
 

I work left to right, so the tongue is facing forward on the ground and you put the glue in the grove.

Hold wood at an angle the fill the grove them attach to piece on the floor.
Make sure you create a a random pattern and don’t have joints next to each other.

On your first row put spacers between that and the wall, ensure you use a scrap off cut to tap the joints together to help stop shrinkage.

I used to get the wife to sort the order and pass me the next piece while I glued and layed.

 
Posted : 18/09/2020 9:35 am
Posts: 2095
Full Member
Topic starter
 

Ok chaps - good tips there, I’m going in!!

 
Posted : 18/09/2020 1:36 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Bloke who did mine had a series of ratchet straps with special fixings to hold the flooring together tight as it was glued/assembled.

Not sure if you have these but wasn’t something that jumped into my head he would use.

 
Posted : 18/09/2020 8:59 pm

6 DAYS LEFT
We are currently at 95% of our target!