What would be the STW recommendation?
Double slatted fence?
Concrete god father posts - then coach bolt to those.
I get cheap ones and accept that they are a consumable. The new neighbours have just paid God knows how much for the fence equivalent of the Berlin Wall ( I think someone from the American Embassy has already been to look at it.......). I'm not sure how it'll fair against south coast storms but only time will tell.
Hedge or wire fence with plants
Hit and Miss fence as said above by Mark
I used 75mm posts with a third of their length postcreted into the ground, 35mm stiles and a single layer of slats with a slat thickness between each one.
50-60mph gusts the other day, never even wobbled. Cost less to buy the timber than useless panels would. Buy cheap buy twice.
+1 Hit and miss fencing
We live at 220m in the Pennines at the top of a west facing steep slope and ours hasn't blown away yet. Decent posts with good anchoring is probably the most important thing.
With hit & miss you get some interesting wind vortices and snow drifting in high winds is quite pretty and enjoyable to watch.
I'm really exposed and have fence posts go each year. I repair them with concrete spurs, but as soon as I lose a fair section I'll be putting up concrete posts and double palisade to reduce the force on the panels. One of the concrete spurs I installed last year cracked at ground level, digging that out wasn't fun.
Double Palisade, aka double slatted, hit and miss above.
Good sized posts postcreted in to a good depth, two substantial horizontals with featherboard, put a strip of board along the bottom as a sacrificial section which will eventually rot from close proximity to the dirt, but is easily replaced.
That's what I got a mate to put up at the bottom of my garden, I helped him with digging out the old concrete bases and holding stuff in place while he drilled and screwed, took a couple of days and was cheaper than panels which will warp and break, and need an entire panel replaced.
In a particularly windy, exposed place, then double palisade to reduce wind pressure would probably be better.
There's a sort of wind tunnel effect at the bottom of my garden, which faces south, and the prevailing winds are south-westerly, because there's a block of flats the other side of the fence, so the wind gets funnelled through the gap.
Willow is another possibility. We have it on a pretty windy west-facing run and it has gaps which let a bit of airflow through and stop it being like a sail.
All out neighbours have cheap wooden 6' fences which start to fall over as soon as they put them up. Storm Doris has reduced one side to kindling and the other side has had to tie his wooden fence posts to his concrete line post, whilst the cheap panels have warped in the wet. Waste of money and effort.
We have concrete posts and gravel boards and decent quality panels slotted into them. It's rock solid, and we can slip the panels out to treat/paint them if we like. Go to a commercial fencing company, it's about twice the price of B&Q stuff but way better.
I used 75mm posts with a third of their length postcreted into the ground, 35mm stiles
Do you have to take care when mowing the lawn to avoid them in the long grass? 😛
OP: Put in a hedge if you can. Cut/lay it properly and it will fill in without gaps at the base. Yorkshire Boarding (what called hit and miss above) is your next best. As above use solid posts at least 75mm square and decent rails on which to nail the boarding.
I hate the look of concrete posts so I used 3ft concrete spurs set-n the ground with a foot above, then bolted wooden posts to them. That way wooden post wont rot and if they do easy to change without digging. Use Aaris rail and feather edge boarding. Will last years and doesnt look bad.
Tip: put the spurs on the neighbors side and you wont see them.
It's not just me who hates, hates, hates those concrete posts then?
Around our way they seem really popular. 🙁
My mate secured his 4 foot fence panels to the brick pillars very securely last year.
Doris just snapped the brick pillars off. The fence panels are still attached, lying on the lawn....
I hate the look of concrete posts
Brown paint?
[url= http://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/fencing/fencing-panels/hit-and-miss-horizontal/fencing-panels-hit-miss-horizontal.aspx ]Hit and miss panelling.[/url]
Above is just an example, there are cheaper versions about. If you don't have to use panels why not just use boards with an air gap. Another hint. If using wooden posts don't concrete posts in just use rubble, this allows a bit of movement for the fence and will stop the post snapping and if it does they are a damn site easier to change.
Oh, that's hit and miss, that means something completely different up here.
Whitestone, very good...
Assuming you're using slotted concrete posts, make the panels in situ using stock-fencing rails and good quality feather edge boards with a good overlap. Works out at a similar price to ready-made panels and if you are careful with your measuring, won't rattle about.
Well I've been replacing fence posts this weekend after Doris
Two post rotten and snapped. One was a 4" post that has been in since before we had the house (>10 years). It was cemented in place but had rotted just above the cement line. That's what happens
The other was a 3" post I replaced about 5 years ago - same thing. So a 3" post lasts about 5 years
Most durable fence will be with concrete posts - obviously won't rot
4" posts considerably better than 3"
A Picket fence is much less affected by wind - you could do a 'double picket' - slats both sides which will still allow the wind through but gives privacy
Or best of all a beech hedge
Thanks guys, will look into the double palisade fencing. At the moment, the neighbour has put-up close-board fencing on his boundary - 7ft tall. Looks nice and seems solid in the wind...for now.
