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Next project, putting up a new fence - 4 panels and a gate. I have a reasonable idea of what to do, and have bodged the odd bit of fence in the past. This time however I want it to look professional and be rock solid. I do not have the money to pay someone else to do it....and I will be doing it solo, Looking to see if there are any tips or tricks that could make this easier
It needs to be a right angle and plan for the gate to be on one of the internal corners with 2 panels either side. Any issue with this layout? Just bang in two posts either side of the gate?
Post length - panels are 1.83 panel with gravel board. What length post should I go for? It will take a bit of wind. I've read 600mm in the ground so 2.7m posts? Debating a trellis topper. Wife is a no, how hard is it to cut down the posts neatly once in situ? I've done it with a handsaw before but it was wonky. Is there a way to do it with a circular saw
I want to face fit to reduce the length slightly. Is this just screw to the post or should I try to bolt? Could bolting be problematic as the holes would be close to the edge?
And whats the easiest way to keep the post upright when you are waiting for the postcrete to set. I've tried proping it up but it always moves a little.
I'm going to be cutting through existing concrete to fit these new uprights. I have a concrete saw, and a breaker - I'm hoping its only going to be a few inches. Again any tips of the best way to do this without taking up too much (plan is it will be eventually covered with gravel)
The last 2 posts i set in the ground I was able to attach a baton between the wooden posts to maintain the alignment of the faces. When i filled the holes with postcrete I did it in stages to ensure a solid fix around the rubble I has part filled the hole with and to make sure i didn't pour too much water in.
Doing this sort of job is probably easier with 2 people. Is there anyone near you who can give you a hand?
As above, another person would help massively if you want to do a good job. They don't need to be doing lots of heavy lifting but someone to support posts etc whilst you do the hard work will help a lot.
Did the back fence similar to yours, you've got the breaker and saw, i'd definitely just get the plan down on paper to work out what prep you need, for 5 foot panels with 1 foot gravel boards (6 foot fence) we used 8 foot posts i think, i take it your putting this into a concrete plinth or similar, so filling back up with concrete after, that's going to be a lot of concrete as well so stock up.
Prep for us was just breaking it all down, getting the pilot holes in for the posts at the correct locations, then just get that corner post in and use it as the datum, then just build the fence one panel at a time, make sure you've got some bracing to keep the post in the correct position, and repeat.
If you have to cut a panel down to fit at the end that's when you might want to prep that panel, i.e. taking the end off, cut down, then reapplying the end so it looks correct and fits.
Good luck, the prep is the hardest, i had an old brick wall to remove, then it's just a lot of waiting, it'll take 2-3 days i'd say due to setting times, you could do it all in a oner, but that does increase risks.
Yeah, I've just done about 25m of new fencing and having somone there just to hold the other end is a massive help.
As for how to set it out, start from the corner and work out if you can, cut a length of wood to the length you need the posts spacing at and screw it to the posts when setting in the hole or if using concrete posts or timber with a channel for a panel then cut the timber the length of the panel and put in the slots so it sets the posts at the right distance. Postcrete is magic!
Really not easy to rope someone in to help as I'll be trying to fit it in around actually proper work to, so I'm hoping to get a few posts in over a lunch time or early evening. I have a very keen 8 year old.
It will also be fitted to the house at one end, so my rough plan is to fix a wall plate and then look to face fit the first gravel board to get the right location for the next post / help with keeping it plumb.
So will screwing to the posts just be fine? No need to bolt? Was thinking I could alternate the bolt holes on each panel so I don't weaken the post too much. Worried screws won't last.
I've also got a few different levels to work off - the concrete is an old garage base, driveway and path, all with various slopes and heights. I plan to use a bit of thread to set the levels and ensure the fence is the right height. I can always cut gravel boards down on a table saw. This is why I'm thinking about leaving the posts "long" and cutting them down after fitting.
Its all pressure treated stuff guaranteed for 15years, I'm planning on treating with some sandolin to match the original fencing.
Oh and the plan was to set the posts direct into the concrete. I've seen metal things but they look more like a pain to get right than just putting the post straight in. Silly idea or should I be investing in some sort of shoe thing. There will only be 6 posts. Don't want to use concrete posts as they are pretty ugly and this is right by the new doors
Something about the hole diameter being a ratio of the fence post height to ensure there's enough concrete to prevent movement.
Use 4x4 posts rather than 3x3, they cost more but are stronger and last way longer. I'd use rails and boards rather than panels, more robust, simpler to get the setting out right, look better and last longer. And please don't use a circular saw to cut the tops of the posts in situ, they're a dangerous bit of kit used where they're meant to be - on a bench - using one above your head is a bad idea.
For digging the holes, buy a two-handled post hole digger. They're £30 or so, but make the job so much easier and more satisfying than using a spade. Sell it on afterwards if you want to reduce the cost (though I did this after building my shed, then had to buy another one after storm Arwen brought the fence down).
When I've set posts, I've screwed a couple of short bits of timber to perpendicular sides of the post, that are in turn screwed to some short stakes (bit of timber with a point sawn) knocked into the ground so it's braced square while the concrete sets.
<span style="text-align: right;">To expand on what s1ngletrack said, you don't need any sort of powered saw for this job. Just use a a good sharp saw. Buy a new one if yours isn't. £8 will spent. Will cut a 4x4 post straight in <30s. You'll save time faffing with extension leads and support.</span>
I just fitted a short length of fence and used steel powder coated posts from Durapost - much neater than concrete or wood, smaller hole required (use a post hole auger) and dead easy to fit solo as they dont really weigh anything.
They are designed for their pwn composite panels, but will fit normal drop in panels too.
Another vote for Durapost easy to wrangle and they also offer u-shape wall plates and clips for fitting panels. Stihl post-hole borer from a local tool-hire place will make the job easy, using the smaller auger for Durapost.
Doing it on your own will be more difficult, make up a jig to hold the posts vertical in two planes whilst you tamp the fast setting post-crete in place. Ensure this jig is robust as you don't get a reposition chance with the fast set stuff.
Fit both end posts first and then using a taught brick-layers line lay out the line of the fence. For a right angle make up a 4/3/2 brick-laying square in suitable wood.
Top tip from N. America DIY programmes. If your soil is heavy/poorly draining a couple of inches of pea shingle in the bottom of the post hole will help with drainage and stop problems with the posts rotting (wood) or spalling (steel) from rain that runs down the posts.
Ok - going down the rabbit hole of researching durapost. Look nice, adds £12 per post over 4x4 timber. Colour would be a match to the bifolds and the 'H' profile would mean less length so avoids the need to face fit.
Can't quite work out how you would do an internal corner with a gate attached. Do you bolt the hinges direct into the solid gate posts?
Searching youtube at the mo.....
Once I'm through the concrete top layer I'll see if a post auger would help, I don't know what the soil is like, all I know is the builder said there was 3 different concrete layers when he was putting the drainage in, so it may be I've got alot of concrete to break.....hopefully not!
Thanks for all the tips, looks like post hole diggers have gone up a bit since you bought then northwind
Point noted about circular saw - I'd tried with a hand saw before but cutting up a ladder gave me a wonky finish
If you have a sds drill , then drill the concrete first to see what thickness you are working with
<p style="text-align: left;">Wickes post hole digger is pretty sturdy at £39.</p>
circular saw will cut the top if you can hold it straight. Get as far through as the blade will let you , then cut from other side or finish with hand saw.
ive seen people use a guide clamped to the post similar to what you would use to cut handle bars / forks etc
Just recently had to replace 2 rotten fence posts.
Bought a Post/hole bar for breaking up soil, stones, etc. This definitely helped to speed the digging of the holes.
Didn't bother with the double fence shovel.
Also bought some post saver sleeves hopefully these will stop the posts rotting away again.
If you're cutting the tops off the posts, they're either too long or you've not dug your hole deep enough! You get a lot better finish by cutting the bottom off when you know how long it needs to be. I've never had to resort to supporting posts before the mix has set. If using post-mix, give it a splash of water and tamp down every 2-3" or better still use some ballast and cement to make a 6-1 dryish/stiff mix. You should have at least 2 feet of post in the ground for a 6 foot fence, especially if you're hanging a gate on one. Screws will be fine, just pilot the holes first and use large-headed screws. It's not the most difficult job in the world, but like anything, making it look professional takes experience. Remember, measure twice/thrice, cut/dig once.
@joat Hot weather and sandy sub-soil were why I commented on holding things steady, especially with the very small size Duraposts (I think they are around 2" square and it was easy to get them out of plumb and then be stuffed by the quick-set postcrete if care is not exercised. Written from the POV of someone who fitted his first fence 2 years ago.
<p style="text-align: left;">@Sandwich Fair enough, small posts can be a pain to firm up. My experience is more commercial than domestic, but always used a string line with solid reference point and frequent checks. A long roofing lat can be invaluable to hold posts in one plane and the line the other. I miss fencing, twenty-odd years of erections!</p>
If you can’t stretch to a post-hole digger, https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-pointed-head-drainage-shovel/600kh this is pretty good for digging post-holes - it’s really rocky where I am and I’ve managed to dig a few fence holes with on. If you want a long life, I’d go for concrete posts. For a professional-looking finish, fit gravel boards and make sure they are dead straight, level or evenly-stepped on an incline.
Bookmarking - this is my job for August! 🙂
Get yourself one of these, attaches to the post with a rubber band. Use bits of baton Screwed into the posts to brace and hold them upright and steady whilst the postcrete sets. Don’t forget to protect the buried parts of the posts, I went with bituminous paint.