I've suggested to my other half that rather than head to Cornwall this summer (which I imagine will be stupidly busy), we look at going to Barmouth/Dolgellau area instead. I've been to the area a lot but only on mtb weekends with mates.
Question is, what's it like for a family in the summer? I'd like to take our 8yr old to Coed Y Brenin for a start. Barmouth looks nice except I've never been there. I'm wondering if it's quiet or a genuinely nice place to take kids to play in the sand.
Also what are the midges like at the end of August? Appreciate comments as I know what there is to do around the area etc. but I've struggled to find info from anyone who's been there with family.
Is the Sandancer club still open? If so, get a babysitter and go for night out in the best worst club in the UK.
We were there a few years back.with my young daughter. Found loads of interesting stuff to do. I'd not hesitate to recommend it.
FWIW it was late July and we had no midges.
Barmouth beach is nice and the surrounding area stunning, lots to do.
We are about 1hrs drive away. Sometimes it’s very quiet and nice, sometimes it’s back to back traffic jams.
Let’s face it UK beaches are going to be packed this summer
Barmouth is a sh!thole and will attract the worst type of staycationers especially this year. Try Porthmadog or Harlech although again I'd expect them to be rammed as well
Don't see how you could call Barmouth a shithole. It's a lovely area but as above I suspect everywhere vaguely well known will be rammed this summer.
Not that familiar with Barmouth but my parents live a bit further north near Llanrwst so a regular visitor to North Wales (but not for a year...).
I thinks it’s an amazing place - mountains and beaches, what’s not to like? Countryside is stunning and lots of things to do.
Not so close to Barmouth but Greenwood and Zip World are both fun places for a family day out.
And maybe a sneaky trip to Penmachno or Gwydir Mawr too (not for the 8 year old though.
If you want to make a good impression, and amuse the kids, learn how to pronounce Welsh place names properly too:
Don’t see how you could call Barmouth a shithole. It’s a lovely area
The surrounding coast and countryside is indeed lovely but Barmouth itself is a shithole
We stayed a week in Barmouth 4 years ago & liked the area. The car never moved for a week because we used the train and organised our visits & walks around the timetable. Some stations you stick your arm out for the train to stop. Might be different under corvid of course.
Can’t get the link to insert. Google cyclingwales and you’ll find it.
Never had a problem with midges (that’s more a Scottish thing) but plenty of big black flies if you’re near farming areas
Amazing place. Beaches, crabbing, flat cycleways and trail centres, steam trains, loads to do around that corner of the country.
We tended to stay down near Towyn, but been up and down the coast in cottages.
best worst club in the UK
It can't be worse/better than Neath Workies surely?
We're hoping to stay up near Penmaenpool and then cycle down the river to the beach. I'm happy to have a bit of a drive around and planned on visiting Harlech etc too.
I have a static on a quiet site near Dolguellau, and we spend most of the summer there.
You have Coed-y-Brenin, Mawddach trail, plus a huge/near infinite amount of footpaths and bridleways, including Cader Idris. There is plenty of walks an 8 year old can easily do. The precipice walks (old and new) are both good.
Beaches, I prefer Fairbourne opposite Barmouth. The village is not great, but if you head more towards the river you'll have plenty of beach and a lot quieter. As someone has mention Barmouth gets rammed on a sunny weekend, with the roads full, plus it has suffered from lack of investment away from the harbour. The beach between Aberdyfi and Tywyn is also great, and when you get away from the two towns, is pretty remote. Shell Island you have to pay for access, and frankly there are just as good free beaches around.
There are also lots of little railways a short distance away. Also Bala lake/Llyn Tegid is not far
My kids are 4 and 6, and there is lots of outside things to do with them. When it starts raining, then it becomes a little difficult! Just pack waterproofs!
It's a lovely part of the world. As noted, you get the best of both worlds: a beautiful coastline with great beaches and then big hills and countryside behind you
We had a fantastic holiday there a few years ago with our two girls, aged 10 and 12 at the time, and my sister, B-i-l and their kids. It helped that we had a 2 weeks of uninterupted sunshine. The kids wanted to spend most of their time in the sea on their bodyboards, but we had a few days out too. There's loads to do
I took my bike with me and managed a couple of jaunts out
We stayed a couple of nights in September 2019. We weren't there during the day as it was CyB first day and windsurfing at Aberdyfi the second day. However, pubs, restaurants and places to buy stuff for breakfast were all fine.
My preference would be Aberdyfi/Borth/Machynnleth though. We would have gone there if we could have found an AirBnb the day before, which was when we decided to go.
Been going to North Wales since I was tiny with my folks and now late 40s we go every year with our kids, can't recall a year we haven't been as it has everything we would want to do. Anywhere from Aberdovey and up the coast/ mountains is great. We now either stay in Arthog just over the Barmouth Bridge or Betws. A lot for a family to do. In my experience Barmouth is improving.
regardless of how "shit" the town (i quite liked it) is the beaches are fabulous.
lots of lovely riding to be had too
Barmouth is fine, not a shithole at all, although a little run down in places. Loads to do with a little one, beaches great esp a bit further north. Walk over the bridge is also great.
Edit: it will be full of Brummies though 😂
We've just booked Barmouth as a replacement for a france holiday, so I hope it's good! Any change of scene will be good enough I think.
I could imagine it being a bit grim at the height of summer but I was there out of season and thought it was nice tbh.
We stopped in some log cabins (recommended on here) right next to Coed y Brenin.
If you're cycling or driving then the world is your oyster .... beaches are going to be packed everywhere but perhaps Nefyn (rocky) or Llanbedrog (sand) would be quieter?
I didn't think much of Barmouth as a town and preferred Dolgellau. Either way there's heaps to do in the area.
A few years ago now, but we camped with two young kids near Dyffryn Ardudwy, just North of Barmouth. Beaches are fantastic, and it was close enough to take the kids cycling at Coed-y-Brenin (and for a couple of short solo trips there). Not much entertainment, other than the campsite pub, but loads of space for the kids to let off steam once they got back from the beach. Barmouth was easily accessible on the train, which you stop like a bus at the station, within walking distance of the campsite. The following year we stayed at a campsite in Barmouth itself. Nice enough site and it was a short stroll into town, but we preferred the previous year's campsite. Beautiful area and the kids enjoyed it, so there must have been enough to do. Some really nice (and easy) bike rides for families along the river to and from Barmouth too.
It was few years ago but I remember winning a 10 mile road race that finished in Barmouth so I have fond memories 🙂
I've booked a house there 7-14th august for the UK break with my boy and niece, Go to North wales most years loads to do. Towns a bit rundown but everything you need and the beach is great loads of places off the beaten track nearby
Back in my 20s we used to do long camping and drinking and beaching weekenders on shell island campsite in the quiet season. Just North of Barmouth and great fun, the beach was always amazing.
Harlech beach is very nice, long as well and sheltered by massive dunes, it should be easy to space yourselves away from others.
There’s a nice petting farm for the little ones in between Barmouth and Harlech.
As others have said, it’s great for biking and beaches. We’ve been going to north Wales and Snowdonia almost every year since the kids were little and they love it. My daughter was only asking recently when we would be going back. If you are lucky with the weather, there’s not many places in the world I’d rather be.
Loads of road bike climbs I'd love to do around that area in addition to CYB etc. for MTBs, ideally when I'm lighter and fitter than currently, plus to see how much it's all changed since I lived there in the early 80s as a kid.
World's second steepest road in Harlech, some lovely climbs up to Cregennan Lake from outskirts of Fairbourne and Dolgellau, plus the legendary Bwlch Y Groes climb that's south west of lake Vernwy, to name a few.
Barmouth town itself is possibly not a shithole but gives the impression of one being packed full of drunk tattoed brummies during the summer. I'd avoid , however the surrounding areas are lovely. Lots to do if you like beaches, bikes, walking etc.
Is the Sandancer club still open?
Where "Reality ends and fantasy begins" if I remember correctly.
A few good night's in there while on placement across the bridge at Arthog for 4 months.
Thanks all. Pretty much as I suspected so I appreciate the comments. Accommodation is now booked up. We're staying right next to the Mawddach trail so good cycling is right on our doorstep. I'm a big fan of the pub in Penmaenpool too so I look forward to going back there again.
Memories of Mountain Leader courses and Outward Bound at the Joint Services Mountain Training Centre at Tywyn many many years ago. Fabulous country but definitely Tyoe 2 Fun at times. Probably a bit much for an 8 year old!
What's not to like mountains meeting the sea. Personally I would drive and ride about as much as possible!
Oh shit that's it now house/holiday let/caravan/shack/shed prices will go up tenfold again!
It’s a lovely area but Barmouth itself of one of the worst places I’ve ever visited. Makes Blackpool look like Val de Lobo.
Fantastic area, mountains, beaches, not that busy (away from Barmouth) and great ice cream.
Year before last we went to Abersoch, that was lovely.
We’re staying right next to the Mawddach trail so good cycling is right on our doorstep. I’m a big fan of the pub in Penmaenpool too so I look forward to going back there again.
Last time I went (Nov 2018) it was closed up and looking as if they were going to town on interior refurb (that was a long cold disappointing ride from my tent to a dark shell!)
Heard it was to be taken taken over by Robinsons hotel chain. Should be long reopened now. Shame though, as I used to love the open fires, old fashioned food and Purple Moose. It might now be good again though? Another option is the Torrent Walk Cellar Bar in Dolgellau. Purple Moose and fires! (That was a long cold rewarding slog from my tent!) No food served though, is just a bar. Pays to check ahead before heading anywhere on a bike/long walk to make sure it’s open.
Just make sure you cycle/hike up, the Mawddach to brunch at T H Roberts at least once. And take some of their amazing cake/s with you as you leave. It’s never been a disappointment, and I’ve been visiting for decades.
Barmouth is rammed tho in summer. Luckily plenty of spots nearby.
If you head up the Gwynant River from the Mawddach Trail at Abergwynant Estate there’s a footpath all the way to the lane at the foot of the Pony Path up Cader Idris. 2 litres of water and banana will get you to the summit on a hot June day.
Recommend overnight kip up there if weather is fine. Find a grassy spot.
Insider tip: If the pub proudly advertises Sky Sports as the main attraction, nine times out of ten you will be better off elsewhere!
Sandancer in the sunshine always makes me think Im in Mexico.
Many happy memories of holidaying as a family in Tywyn from my youth, beautiful part of the world. Took a random few days two years ago to use up holiday and stayed in an Air BnB between Machynlleth and Dolgellau, expecting to relive some of those memories and basically spent the whole time watching fast jets do the Mach Loop.
Having been to Barmouth, I'm struggling to understand why anyone would consider it a 'shithole'. Anyway; stayed in a bunkhouse place in Dollgellau some years ago now. We shared it with another group up from London at the same time. Proper MTB friendly place. We all went to a local pub, where some of the local lads took umbrage with the amount of attention two black lads in our group were getting from the local women, and got a bit racist. Word of caution; don't be a racist prick, then pick a fight with a group of firefighters. Suffice to say, it don't end well for the locals. The racist lads, that is. A couple of the women seemed to do ok out of it... 😉
Panorama walk is well worth checking out for a family stroll, as is the Precipice Walk, though the latter is a bit longer (not much of a precipice though!)..
Not all the pubs advertising Sky Sports are to avoid, had a great early morning fry-up and pints watching the Lions series with my then 11 yr old lad, I believe it was the Barmouth Hotel. May well have been the only time it wasn't 'your not from around here' mind. Always enjoy the Last Inn, sat outside watching the world go by.
Last inn is good, but gets booked up very quickly in our experience. Isis pizzeria (which may have changed its name now 😀) is also good for quicker snack...
My late g/f grew up there, after her folks bought a hotel in Barmouth. She went to school there and learned Welsh, which she was trying to teach me. She loved it there, and any time the area popped up on telly she’d point out places she remembered.
I love the area been going there since I was 18 , & I'm now edging toward 50 (yeah I'm from the Birmingham area).. Barmouth was definite struggling for good few years but has improved loads lately, and am really happy to recommend it, with the proviso that it gets really busy. That said, the whole area is beautiful with loads of stuff to do (walking/cycling), I will be going back as soon as possible. Also you've all forgot <shudders at the memory of sandancer> it the cheapest way to get to Las Vega's (amusements)
it's a real pity the idiots have meant that the like of the blue lake access is now closed to the public
The Mawddach estuary really is one of the most beautiful places in Wales and that's a pretty high bar.
Really love the area, stunning hill walking to be had, and quieter than the North end of Snowdonia. The last few times I’ve been there we stayed at Graig Wen campsite (s/c accommodation there too) and it’s probably the nicest campsite I’ve ever stayed at- large pitches, stunning views and fire pits. It’s a few miles from Barmouth but a nice easy walk or ride. Barmouth itself seemed to have several miles of traffic queuing to get in much of the time, and this was mid June so not exactly peak season.
I live in Talybont four miles up the coast from Barmouth moved here from Machynlleth.
It has a strong possibility it could turn out to be the most awesome holiday ever.
We did holidays in Tywyn for several years, beautiful part of the world, and a great base to explore from.
Barmouth was a strange mix to me, in parts such as the arousal cafe and the fairground, very Blackpool, then walk away from the centre and you had boutique furniture shops, craft shops. Something for everyone.
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Bit like the arousal cafe, when you see it
Whenever I've been to Barmouth I've met at least 2 people I know. It's usually full of Brummies & scousers. Great scenery but will be absolutely rammed if the weather is dry.
Not all the pubs advertising Sky Sports are to avoid
True you can get a cracking gammon steak and pineapple ring.
I’m late to reply to this so most of the useful information will have been posted.
I thought I would just add my experience as a kid from the Midlands it felt like I spent 30% of my youth between Barmouth and Aberystwyth. I love it now, but when I was a kid I hated it, it was boring.
If your kids are older and into the outdoors then you’ll have a great time, if you’re after a nice beach holiday, then I’d maybe consider the south coast, the beaches are lovely but they’re normally packed or being rained on. Or if your kids are younger and want something today I’d head for Dumfries and Galloway
Lovely part of the world, many happy memories over the years. As a family, we love the whole area - we visit regularly (well, until last March!) and the kids ask to go back which says something!
The mountains, the trails, the walks, the beaches - stunningly beautiful.
Yes there are some parts of Barmouth itself you may choose to avoid... but isn't that the case anywhere? Likewise there are some lovely places - Knickerbockers Ice Cream / Fudgeridoo Sweet Shop (same company?). Epic Fish & Chips by the harbour/bridge. A lesser-known gem is the steep walk up out of the town centre, through the 'old town', to Dinas Oleu (Citadel of Light). The first land gifted to the NT in the late 1800's. Stunning, panoramic views. SUPing on the estuary. The huge beach is lovely but as has already been said, other than v. early a.m. or much later p.m. it gets VERY busy. Uncomfortably so. No thanks, not for us. Tricky when the weather turns - we found it difficult to find things to do when the kids were younger/toddlers. Mawddach Trail is incredible. Across Barmouth bridge and along the estuary to Dolgellau and back is an amazing ride. It's just under 20 miles (?) but flat so easily do-able. Dolgellau is very quaint with some lovely re-fuelling places. Cadir Idris is a must but it is a tough walk - be prepared, as the weather can turn very quickly - like Snowdon. Choose your day/weather window. Take plenty of water & food.
Beyond Barmouth... coast road up to Harlech and Porthmadog is a great road ride, but a fast road (60) in places so probably not ideal with the kids. Trawsdir campsite (3 miles N of Barmouth) is honestly one of the best we've ever stayed at. So clean and well equipped. Fab. There are some slate caverns between Barmouth and Harlech which are well worth a visit. Harlech beach is amazing... and massive! Like, proper massive. Usually plenty of space but the CP and narrow path to it through the dunes can get busy... Harlech castle is great. Likewise the 'World's Steepest Road' (contested with NZ!) is a good challenge... to crawl up, and maybe ride!
A little further afield... endless tracks, trails, walks, paths etc. through the mountains 'behind' Barmouth (they effectively go all the way through to the main road North, from Dolgellau to Coed Y Brenin. The Steam Railway at Porthmadog was always a big hit with our kids. Criccieth Castle followed by Fish & Chips from the place next to it and then an ice cream from the place opposite. Yes please. However watch the queues...
Llyn Peninsula is breathtaking but quite a way up the coast - about an hour or so. So it's defo. a 'day out'. Kayaking out from Abersoch/Llanbedrog area towards the islands, one of which belongs to Bear Grylls. 'Hell's Mouth' for surfing/boarding - however, be very careful of the currents, tides, surf etc. as it can be pretty rough - think Cornwall. Abersoch/Pwllheli are very different towns but neither are for us... er, where's the road out of here?! Each to their own.
Hope that helps a little? There's loads to do but as is clear, it's predominantly 'outdoorsy' stuff which is of course no problem/what we all want... however, when (not if!) the weather turns grim - sometimes for days on end - it can be tricky finding enough stuff to do. As you'll know coast + mountains = VERY changeable weather, sometimes within an hour let alone a day. The best times for us are when we've kept a very close eye on the weather and planned accordingly... whilst being ready to adapt at any point!
It's beautiful and you won't be disappointed. Whenever you're able to go, enjoy.
Re: midges/mosquitos etc. - we've never had a problem. We were there end of Aug/start of Sept last year and we didn't notice them at all - and we ordinarily would as for whatever reason, I'm the only one in the family they seem to enjoy biting and eating away at!
From our experience, with many visits over the years from Easter sort of time to Oct. sort of time, nothing to worry about. No problem at all.
I spent 4 weeks a year in Dyffryn Ardudwy as a kid. I loved it up until I was a teenager. Have been back there cycling with my other half on numerous occasions and for the last 3 years at Dyffryn seaside estate with my sister and nieces. They seem to love it too. Have been bothered a bit by midges when sitting outside the pub in Barmouth. Barmouth was absolutely rammed last year on our last night, but it was one of the hottest weekends of the year and I think that and people missing out on holidays due to lockdown had everyone heading for the sea.
Apologies for reopening this one…
We have use of a motor home for a few days next week (Monday 30th Aug to Wednesday 1st).
Hoping to get to the coast for a few chilled days - me the missus and two girls (20 & 16).
Had been considering Shell Island but I gather from comments on here that experiences can be a bit of a lottery if the reprobates are out in force.
Would welcome other thoughts or recommendations please for suitable campervan site?
**Camper is 7.0m long x 2.3m wide so conscious of accessibility
Argoed farm. Llanbedr. I keep my caravan there.
https://www.argoedfarmholidays.com/
You can seen shell Island and the hoards from there.
If the owner doesn't reply. Try again. They are a working farm so can be busy.
Anywhere on Anglesey you can get on, the place is lovely.
check out the RNLI shed on Barmouth beach; they have a massive semisubversible truck crab thing to tow the boat out. its ace.
Makes Blackpool look like Val de Lobo.
Comedy hyperbole aside, that’s not even close to true. Have been to both towns a number of times. Barmouth many.
One is a very small town (resident population 2.5k) located on one of Europe’s most exceptionally beautiful mountain-encircled estuaries. It has a tiny harbour with some good pizza nearby, a few pubs and one small infamous nightclub that you really aren’t compelled to visit or even discover. It’s just an unfussy old-fashioned little town (more a village with a small harbour) which gets swamped by visitors at times and yet is near empty at others.
The other (resident population about 140K, 18 million visitors per year) is a 7-mile Concrete Level of Hell, lined with kebab-grease, disappointment and lager foam.
Spot the differences
Wherever I go I tend to choose visiting ‘out of season’. Because this small Island is increasingly rammed with sheep in cars. And Gwynedd is no stranger to sheep or cars. Oh ye gods. What have I done. 🤦🏼♂️
