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Has anyone else with the Wiser set up had issues with radiators/zones heating when already above the desired temperature?
I've raised multiple support tickets, changed a radiator and valve in the box bedroom, 'nipped' the lock ring on the TRV as directed, had a TRV replaced, but still I'm finding when the Kitchen calls for heat two other zones heat up despite already being warm enough.
I'd put it down to a dodgy valve, but given in one zone I had it replaced for a Drayton model and the issue remains, I'm wondering whether the TRVs are crap, or something's going wrong in the software.
Wiser Support tries to help, but seems to get to a point where they just shrug their shoulders.
Why isn't this post showing up?
Are the rads in the other rooms actually getting hot? My temperature traces show a rise in some rooms when they're not calling for heat but others are, but in fact the rads are cold and the room temp is affected by the pipework getting hot as it feeds the rads that need it.
Have you tried swapping a suspect trv with one that you believe is OK?
I had this exact issue a few weeks back. I first tried swapping the problem TRV to another room and the issue followed it, so then (even though the battery level was showing high in the app) I swapped for some fresh batteries and recalibrated the TRV a few times and it seems to have fixed it
No issues with mine.
Can you try a regular 'dumb' TRV head on the problem radiator(s)? Does that succeed in shutting off the valve?
I have had this issue, but every time it's due to either TRV not screwed on enough, incorrectly calibrated TRV or not enough power left in batteries. (The first two are initial setup problems really, if it's been working OK and suddenly started happening then batteries is more likely). As above I'd try new batteries (just checking you're using normal batteries not rechargeables?) and recalibrating.
We have something similar with our Tado system; it will keep the TRVs open until they are 0.5 degrees above the setpoint, then close them. Normally by this point the boiler isn't on so it doesn't matter, but if there are other rooms that are still cold the boiler will still be running.
Apparently with Tado at least you can ask them to turn the over/undershoot down a bit so it tries to stay closer to the setpoint. I don't know why you can't just do it yourself.
These systems are clever, but I wish they gave you better access to control their cleverness a bit more.
Thanks all. I can't see my post in Chat forum oddly so had to go back through the browser to find this!
To answer: yes the radiators are actually heating up. On the heat report graphs, the Hallway and 'Study' (box bedroom) zones heat up whenever the Kitchen calls for heat. Not due to ambient heat - the radiators are actively heating.
Originally (last year) I noticed the issue in the Study only. So swapped TRVs with zone working ok. Issue persisted, exhausted Support recommendations, which led to decision being the radiator valve (with the pin) is faulty, and so I had that replaced from the Pegler to a Drayton one. Fastforward and the issue is happening again despite those changes.
Wiser sent me a new TRV to replace, and so I swapped the problematic Hallway one for this. Issue persists. I've recalibrated several times, removed TRV and replaced etc. Changed batteries. Wiser said to tighten ('nip') the locking ring but that hasn't helped.
I haven't tried a dumb TRV to see if it shuts it off completely - good shout, thanks. And I guess another battery change won't hurt.
Mine did this occasionally. I think the solution is to be really careful when replacing the batteries to make sure you do things in the right order, otherwise the calibration is wrong.
I've swapped to using Lithium batteries as I was getting weirdness happening (like the rads being on) when the batteries were still showing green in the app. I can't remember where I found it but there were other users who had gone full nerd on trying to different battery types and Lithium were recommended due to the low power draw over extended time period working much better with Lithium batteries. Bit spendy, but work out cheaper as they are replaced less frequently.
Mine did this occasionally. I think the solution is to be really careful when replacing the batteries to make sure you do things in the right order, otherwise the calibration is wrong.
Careful in what way? Recalibration automatically follows on from replacing the batteries doesn't it? Or it can be done as a standalone thing.
Or are you talking about inserting the batteries the correct way round?
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According to the instructions you need to re-callibrate after changing the batteries. Â
Interesting about the Lithium batteries, I will give them a go.
Careful in what way?
Mine will often start a calibration by themselves shortly after the batteries are installed. If this happens while the valve is being screwed back on to the TRV then the subsequent calibration is off.Â
Why are you removing wiser trvs to remove the battery. They are designed to be replaced in situ.Â
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A couple of mine have done this sometimes as well, even replacing the batteries and recalibration didn't help. I ended up resetting the trv and re-adding it to the system which fixed it.Â
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