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One of the true heros of British mountaineering. 1st ascent of SW face of Everest. Not quite as media savvy as Bonnington but I met him at a lecture in the 90's he signed a book and gave me a SIGG water bottle that I still use.
Def one of the greats. RIP Mr Scott.
Took tough and hardy to new heights. RIP
"Doug Scott and Dougal Haston, Everest, 1975
In 1975, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston put up a new route on the Southwest Face of Mt. Everest, climbing for 14.5 hours and topping out at 6 p.m., then realizing a moonless night was about to set in. They considered their options, and rather than try to descend in the darkness, they located a snow cave they’d dug earlier in the day, enlarged it a bit, and hunkered down – at 28,750 feet, the highest bivy in the history of mountaineering. Despite hallucinations and a lack of oxygen, neither man suffered any frostbite. They made it into camp the next morning at 9 a.m.
"5. Doug Scott, Mo Anthoine, Chris Bonington, and Clive Rowland, Baintha Brakk/The Ogre, 1977
Not one specific bivouac, but a series: Scott, Anthoine, Bonington, and Rowland spent a number of nights descending from the Ogre’s 23,900-foot summit, after Scott broke both legs when he slipped rappelling and pendulumed into a gully. He and Bonington bivvied at 23,000 feet without food or a stove. The next morning, Anthoine and Rowland, who had climbed a different route, joined them and helped Scott into a snow cave they’d dug below the summit. They spent two nights there waiting out a storm. The four men then went up to the west summit with Scott slowly jumaring ropes. They dug a snow cave on the other side of the peak and started to descend in the storm, Scott crawling. Then Bonington rappelled off the end of a rope and broke two ribs. On night number six, they got back to their tents and wet sleeping bags, and spent one more night at that camp (still above 21,000 feet) before they were able to descend. When they got to base camp, they found it abandoned – the other climbers figured they were dead."
https://www.adventure-journal.com/2013/10/the-aj-list-9-legendary-bivouacs/
Inspirational, and a great talker/lecturer. My father took us to several talks in the 90s and noughties, and it was always a great evening; rather unusually for us we'd even buy the merchandise sometimes, and I can remember having a signed copy of 'that' Everest summit photo on the bedroom wall for many years. The charity that he set up CAN for the Nepalese people is worth checking out, and maybe now would be an appropriate time to drop it a small contribution if you're able? I was pleased to be able to return the favour by taking dad to a Doug Scott lecture in Shrewsbury about 5 or 6 years ago, a few years before he died.
A life well lived, and plenty of good work done.
Got to love the 70s mountaineer Jesus look!
Heard him talk once. Very understated and humble guy. When recounting their epic descent from the Ogre he downplayed his two broken legs and said actually Bonnington, who abseiled off the end of the rope, had the more serious injury because Bonners had bad infection problems from his injury after they got home.
"That"Everest poster marks a particular time... I saw him at a lecture in S****horpe of all places...
"That"Everest poster was immediately next to "That" Farrah Fawcett-Majors poster on my bedroom wall at the time.
Shamelessly stolen from UKC:
I seem to remember a great story about him once being asked what he found the most difficult thing about Himalayan mountaineering. He replied. “Trying to piss through six inches of down clothing with a four inch c*ck!”
😁😜😄
@thelawman hi Richard, we were probably at the same lecture at Oakengates town hall. Still recall the thrill of meeting someone who'd done it all.
I met him once in Pete’s eats, one of the giants
A true mountain man. Very spiritual too. RIP Mr Scott.
Very sad news indeed. I randomly went to see him give a lecture 20 odd years ago and signed onto a climbing course the next day. His lecture on adventure that night led me to climb badly all over the world on my own adventures. An outstanding human being who led a magnificent life.
A hero of mine in my teens. Went to see him lecture in Abergavenny and Cwmbran. Also had "that" poster, signed by the man himself. RIP, one of the greats.
RIP Doug. An icon from the golden age of British mountaineering. A sad day but what a life and legacy!
A great mountaineer. His self-portrait taken during his crawl off The Ogre is a favourite of mine.
I think I went to those lectures after the Ogre trip. Made a big impression. Such an unassuming persona as well; and very kind and generous. Was certainly around 1977 I saw him. Then he gave a lecture for our local club a handful of years back; again, warm-hearted and dedicated to improving the lot of the population.
@pistonbroke "we were probably at the same lecture at Oakengates town hall."
You're probably right, Duncan. Certainly went to one, if not two, there.
@pistonbroke “we were probably at the same lecture at Oakengates town hall.”
You’re probably right, Duncan. Certainly went to one, if not two, there.
I've not been to Oakengates Town Hall but went to a Bonnington lecture In Much Wenlock in about 1980 I think.
Heard him give a talk at the clachaig. Doug Scott was oneof the absolute best outstanding mountaineer and all round good humanbeing.
I must dig out my Boardman Tasker omnibus this weekend and re-read the account of their Kanchenjunga ascent, an absolute classic.