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I’ve got a switched and fused flex outlet behind a tv however the new telly has a captive flex so I’d like a safe and compliant method of allowing the flex to be separated.
I can’t put a socket in the wall as the TV is mounted very close to the wall and doesn’t have clearance for a plug.
Would something like this be acceptable?
Those blocks have no volt ratings??
Yeah 20amp I get but 24v can push that.
Cut the plug off or use wego and a box to put the wires in if you need to extend the cable
I suspect that connector will be fine but it looks a bit weedy to me. I'd go for one used on gardening tools if you have room eg https://www.wickes.co.uk/Masterplug-10A-3-Pin-Rewireable-Non-Reversible-Connector-Block---Black/p/162051
Yup I've used those before the flex/cord grip is designed for round cables but will do the slim non earth stuff like you get on tvs. Just don't pull it hard.
The one you linked to from screwfix is fine to use, it’s rated to 20 amps and you’ve got the potential to put a 13amp fuse in the spur so needs to be above that. The one linked to at wickes is only rated to 10amp.
when you put the connector on make sure you put the live end of the flex in the female side or things get very dangerous!
This...
The one you linked to from screwfix is fine to use
Does not seem to be consistent with this...
when you put the connector on make sure you put the live end of the flex in the female side or things get very dangerous!
To add, if you read the Q&A they advise they should not be used for isolating power ie. splitting when live. If the TV is so close to the switched connection that you can't fit a plug then I find it difficult to believe you can turn it off before splitting (unless the switch is remote).
It’s a plug and socket with a male and female side, the same as any other plug and socket. You shouldn’t unplug anything without switching it off first to prevent arcing or incidental contact with live parts, that’s what the switch on the spur is for.
I assume the tv is on a fixed bracket on the wall and there isn’t enough gap to get a plug and socket on which is why the spur was used, so if you want to remove the tv to decorate for example, then it needs disconnecting from the spur. That connector means you don’t have to do that
To add, if you read the Q&A they advise they should not be used for isolating power ie. splitting when live. If the TV is so close to the switched connection that you can’t fit a plug then I find it difficult to believe you can turn it off before splitting (unless the switch is remote).
Being pedantic, neither is the switch unless it's an isolating switch.
IANASparky, I suspect here's no correct way of doing what you're asking because it raises all sorts of what-if's about the potentially dangling cable you can't isolate unless you go the consumer unit.
But if it's out of reach of kids, tucked away and nowhere near any water (fish tank?) then I don't see a problem really. Or the correct option would be to use one of these and don't do anything stupid like try and remove the TV without switching it off first at the consumer unit. www.diy.com/departments/b-q-black-13a-terminal-line-connector/178106_BQ.prd
You shouldn’t unplug anything without switching it off first to prevent arcing or incidental contact with live parts, that’s what the switch on the spur is for.
Arcing, maybe.
But the incidental contact is covered by a BS plug design. Hence nobody gets a warning to watch out when unplugging things, it's not an issue any more.
But that's still assuming the switch is remote from where it's wired in.
I just love how on the same forum that everyone is convinced people will die if they use a dishwasher after bedtime with modern electrics you also have people advocating the use of something not designed for the task. It's designed for lights, not a TV, funnily enough a lighting ring main has a smaller wire gauge than mains, why is that do you suppose?
Why not just use a kettle lead connection? Commonly used for TVs anyway so your next one might not need rewiring..
Or if you have the depth in your wall, a concealed socket instead?
Kettle lead FTW!
You can't use those Greenbrook connectors, they're designed for twin and earth cable, not flex (on one side, anyway). Can't see why the Masterplug one wouldn't work but it looks a bit crap. Consider this:
If you have a close look at the back of the TV you might find that the cable enters under a little flap held in place by a screw, and is in fact a normal fgure-of-eight detachable plug behind that.
Max power consumption for a TV in "standby" is 0.5W since 2013. Unplugging it live isn't ideal, but we're talking less power consumption than a bike lamp
A modern LED TV on "standby" will take a fraction of that