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I'm planning on putting a TRX exercise anchor point (those straps you use for body weight exercise) up high on a wall. Indoors in a living room/snug/ man cave on a sturdy brick wall. But I don't own the house and will need to make good when I leave.
Are all shield anchors born equal in terms of extraction at end of life? Any top tips to make it easier - would greasing the internals help for instance? Last time I did similar for a plasma TV I ended up grinding them back with an angle grinder and re plastering over the stumps which was a right faff.
I appreciate that considering the repercussions in a few years time of my actions now completely diminishes my status as a self respecting man.
Thanks.
Is it a plastered brick wall? If so just sink some chemical resin fixings in, then you can just chop the fronts off, fill and paint.
Check out rigifix fixings.
Thanks both. I've looked at rigifix and whist they are intended for cavity wall I can't see why they would not work on a plastered masonry wall too. So I ordered a pair. I 'think' they will take the punishment of a 15 1/2 stone bloke hanging off a pair of them. either that or I'll have an interestingly new shaped nose.
Are you sure that will work?
Do you not need some soace behind the angle of dangle to achieve some of the excercises?
But I don’t own the house and will need to make good when I leave.
I'd be a bit pissed if my tenant drilled into my walls. Making good or not.
I’d be a bit pissed if my tenant drilled into my walls. Making good or not.
I'm not really a tenant in the normal sense - house/flat comes with my job. They are pretty mellow about changes and alterations but I know the facilities guys charged with refreshing the accommodation between role holders moving in and out and would not want to give them extra work to do.
If its a good solid wall there are screw in masonry bolts that cut a thread into the masonry as an alternative to an expanding rawl-type fixing. Means you can just unscrew them again later and nothing gets left in the hole.
Do you not need some soace behind the angle of dangle to achieve some of the excercises?
soace=space?
I would rather attach to the ceiling to be honest but they are daft high and a dangling TRX in the middle of the room would probably not pass muster with mrs C and a normal step ladder would not be long enough to fit and refit the strap between use. 8-9ft high up a wall is the best compromise I can make.
If its a good solid wall there are screw in masonry bolts that cut a thread into the masonry as an alternative to an expanding rawl-type fixing. Means you can just unscrew them again later and nothing gets left in the hole.
Interesting thanks - the chemical resin fixing above seems to get you somewhere similar too - possibly.
I’d be a bit pissed if my tenant drilled into my walls. Making good or not.
Why would the landlord care provided the wall is fixed when he moves out.
Not many places fall down when someone drills a couple of holes in the wall. Wouldn't expect sympathy if you hit a pipe though...
the chemical resin fixing above seems to get you somewhere similar too – possibly.
except it won't come out again... and that was sort of the brief 🙂
except it won’t come out again… and that was sort of the brief 🙂
I found mixed references to that searching. Some suggesting that if your double nutted the thread against each other and then applied a bit of heat to the metal it is possible to screw it out. Others, not so much. That's why I didn't go that route however.
Hey .... do you know some of those TRX systems come with a door jam ?
Might be an idea to give it a try before going to town with the SDS
Good luck
Ikve used the rigifix fittings a couple of times in block walls to hang a gun cabinet and they are solid. The FO could happily hang off it.
Hey …. do you know some of those TRX systems come with a door jam ?
Might be an idea to give it a try before going to town with the SDS
Yes, got one of those. IMO they are a bit low as an anchor point but more pertinent in this situation is the door is not really in a position in relation to the room that works. But yes, a lot less faff!
Drill hole, resin in anchor sleeve a few mm below finished wall surface. Use big penny washer behind fixing to spread load. When moving out remove fixing and fill hole, flat back and paint.
When using any wall fixing it's essential to know in what direction the force is going to act.
If it's straight down, like hanging a picture, then just a nail will do. On the other hand if it's a top-hung wall cupboard then a large part of the load will be pulling away from the wall and will try to pull the fixing out.
In a solid wall I tend to use Fischer Duopower Nylon plugs, size dependent on the nature of the load.
Bolt all the way through....
Just remember to block one end begore you pour in a litre of filler in the other.