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I've got a house full of skirting (5 rooms) all new boards, and probably 5/6 door architraves to do, this is a mix of old and new on either side of the doors with the new being the pre-primed type.
I've got a 2" Harris brush that's in decent nick and gets looked after so is up to the job and was thinking of grabbing a can of Leyland Satinwood in the morning and cracking on but this is STW...
I really only want to do this job once a decade, if not at longer intervals.
Whats the protocol to get this right first time? (given that any old paint on the old door frames removed as best as possible)
Worth forking out on a decent 1" Purdy? Whats the best paint currently for not going yellow in 3 months time? Satin finish ideally.
I would use a 2" brush of not bigger. It holds more paint so youcan do more of the edges in one go. Small brush for corners
Personally I use dulux trade paints - more expensive but much much better. On new timber: One coat primer, one coat undercoat, 2 thin coats of topcoat
Not sure in terms of brushes, but I've used Dulux Eggshell Mid Sheen on our skirting boards. It's a nice finish, not too shiny, and seems to stay white for a good while. If I can figure out how to post images (gonna find the thread here) I'll pop a couple of pictures taken 5 months apart.
Right. Herewe go, hopefully. A picture from July:
Ooh! It worked! So, a picture from today:
if you don't want it to yellow don't use oil based, i did the first few rooms oil based but its yellowed that quickly now gone to waterbased and found the leyland trade quick dry satin is better than the dulux equivalant. harder to get a good finish than oil as it drys so quick and needs a good brush(synthetic bristles).
i'm going to try adding a bit of floetrol next time.
Did a load of skirting, pic rails and door frames this summer. Did one coat of zinnser 123, then one of gloss white 'once' from wilko. Spot on.
Go water based. All oil based will yellow eventually. I use a lot of Johnstone's and Dulux WB satin woods at work. Johnstone's is my favourite of the two.
A couple of tips. Wet the surface of the skirting with a damp cloth or sponge immediately before painting. This helps the paint flow and helps keep a wet edge.
Apply the paint with a 4" mini emulsion roller and lay off with a good quality brush (I use Purdy Monarch's) Using a roller helps get an even coating of paint plus one rollers worth with cover a metre of skirting. Just make sure to lay off with a brush immediately.
Wash your brush often as water based Satin will start to harden in the stock of the brush after a few metres worth of skirting.
A waterborne alkyd for long lasting and decent levelling. As good as oil.
Flocked foam mini roller if it's new trim and you want apart like finish or a mohair nap is good over everything else. Cut with a brush you like working with.
Sand to key and clean with a decent paint prep.
I'm not normally one for painters tape but I'll definately reach for it with skirting to floor. Easy to tuck it between the carpet and bottom of the skirting.
I bought a good quality synthetic sash brush and have found it excellent for accurately painting fiddly bits.
(And I've been using Dulux quick drying eggshell - I really like the finish although I'm sure other makes might be better at coverage/coat)
Go water based. All oil based will yellow eventually. I use a lot of Johnstone’s and Dulux WB satin woods at work. Johnstone’s is my favourite of the two.
This for sure. Did a lot of woodwork in our house over the last year, used the BEDEC satin wood and gloss versions which tool station sell. Excellent stuff and great to have no faff with the oil based stuff. Low odour too. Other big plus for me is I tend to do the painting in small bursts due to the kids. 1hr here, 1hr there etc. So much easier with the water based stuff for ease of cleanup.
Just used the basic harris brushes, worked OK.
Thanks for the tips!
I have no evidence for this but I've always shied away from Dulux seeing it as the premium B&Q option with other brands doing the same for less, I've never bought and tried it tbh though! Hence the go to for Leyland, I also have a Johnstones paint counter down the road who are a bit pricey for odd's and sods but I've not tried there paint yet.
I have bought and applied some SF No nonsense primer to the boards in one small room but do have a spare can of Zinsser 1,2,3. (Originally bought to get rid of a water stain on the ceiling thinking it was the water based version of B.I.N, it's not, and I need there gold can product for this job) Zinsser stuff is quality stuff though, so tempted to use as a primer as I've heard good things about this before.
Rolling boards is new ground for me but tempted to give it a try, I have a roller, just need the pads, I'll probably have a go at this, and noted to wet the boards first with water.
All boards are laid 3/5mm above sanded floorboards, it's easy to stick a piece of card in the gap and move it along quickly without the nightmare of taping down carpet.
The one thing doing up this house has taught me is that if you're going to try a new technique or product do it out of the way in the small 3rd bedroom rather than the main one so if it goes wrong it's easily hidden!
Honestly, using a roller to apply the paint is such a time saver. Make sure you wash your roller sleeve thoroughly before use to get rid of any fluff. I usually use a roller that has been used a few times for emulsion work.
Honestly, using a roller to apply the paint is such a time saver.
These were a bleedin revelation, +1
if you don’t want it to yellow don’t use oil based, i did the first few rooms oil based but its yellowed that quickly now gone to waterbased and found the leyland trade quick dry satin is better than the dulux equivalant. harder to get a good finish than oil as it drys so quick and needs a good brush(synthetic bristles).
i’m going to try adding a bit of floetrol next time.
This, exactly. It’s great stuff. Add a bit of water to make it workable. Two coats over primed wood, or keyed, previously painted wood. Floetrol is great, but I doubt the op has some just sitting around. And a nice synthetic brush like a Wooster/Purdy.
I have plastic skirting in my bathroom. No awkward corners to speak of really, I could have mitred it but it came with corner sections to make the joins. Pretty flexible, lightweight, no finishing needed, extremely easy to clean. I'd definitely use it again. Read more on skirtingsrus before you decide what to get
Johnston’s trade is my preference, really good to work with. I think it’s a false economy to try and save a few quid on cheaper options as you’re going to spend quite a few hours on this, saving a tenner or so is neither here nor there in the scheme of things.
I'm just doing doors and skirting. Most useful has been low tack (purple) masking tape, a detail sander (120 grit), combined primer and undercoat, lots of cardboard as well as dustsheets. I shall take note of the brush advice.