DIY advice - boxing...
 

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[Closed] DIY advice - boxing in pipes?

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 ski
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Mother has moved to a new 1970's build and has asked me if I can box in some central heating pipes in one of the bathrooms.

What is the best to do it, any advice, got half a day off and there is quite a bit of left over wood in her shed which I can use?

Moneys tight, so would like to help her if I can

Ta.


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 4:23 pm
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Despite spchantler's advice, I would say make up a framework and SCREW a cover to it. Pipes are best kept accessible.


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 4:40 pm
 ski
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So screw some batons to the wall, then board over?

Is a 2 inch gap from the boarding enough of a gap?

There are a few tubes of no more nails left by the previous owner so could use them for the batons then screw in the covering boards?


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 4:53 pm
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Why are you boxing them in?

If money is tight and it's to insulate them, just buy some lagging and wrap that around.

Otherwise, what psling says and use SCREWS.

I never understand why nails are used for places you are likely to need accesss to at a later date...Appart from cost of course.


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 4:54 pm
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done miles of boxing pipes, in bathrooms i use upvc window board, it has a nice rounded lip , its easy to work, looks good, wipes down, and is cheap and quick to install.2 * 1 on wall and floor,upright cut to height, and top piece with lip cut to width.Screw at intervals , with screw caps.


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 4:55 pm
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I would screw the batons to the wall if you can ski.

How far out do the pipes come?


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 4:56 pm
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If you're going to fix the batons with No-Nails make sure that the surface you're bonding them to is rock solid first.


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 4:56 pm
 ski
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Deadly, the pipes come out into the room 3-4 inches along the floor and bend up the wall, thanks for all the advice btw


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 5:28 pm
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Ski,

Think your plan is about spot on.

Screw batons to the wall and floor then a third to support the join of the two bits of board.

You could use the no more nails on the batons to the floor and wall but i'd use just screws for the support baton so that you could remove either the top or side if access is required.


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 5:40 pm
 Aidy
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I never understand why nails are used for places you are likely to need accesss to at a later date.

This.

The amount of cursing I've done recently at whoever was previously in this house who used floorboard nails for *everything*.


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 7:24 pm
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and...if you want a nice finish with the screws, use mirrors screws with screw in cover plates.

[img] http://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image/ae235?$p$&layer=0&size=281,281&layer=1&size=281,281&src=ae235/33912_P [/img]
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mirror-screws-8ga-x-1-polished-chrome-pack-of-10/33912


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 7:26 pm
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Ski,

Sorry, distracted with a bit of painting...

What Rusty Mac is describing above sounds about right.

I was going to go into a bit more detail, but there's a thingy on diydoctor [url= http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/boxinginpipes.htm ]HERE[/url] that describes it in better detail. The picture in the article is:

[img] [/img]

And is for a vertical boxing in, but you could transfer to a horizontal easily enough. Probably best to box in with plasterboard or 9/12mm mdf, both of which can be easily painted.

And +1 for Stoner's screw cap advice...he does come up with the odd useful bit occasionally. 🙂


 
Posted : 05/12/2012 8:00 pm

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