[Closed] Diesel van won’t start. Any ideas?

These guys might have the answer.
https://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/forums/vivaro-movano-camper-van-day-van-conversions.200/

Have you tried lighting the coil light a couple of times before starting? No harm in trying

He thought it could be an immobiliser fault.

I had a Peugeot boxer than had an immobilizer fault.
Auto electrician had a go at it without luck and I ended up scrapping it.

At a guess id be examining the fuel pump solenoid for correct operation, could be a wiring issue (earth or continuity) or a faulty solenoid cutting fuel supply.

What does the fuel filter look like?

Fuel cut solenoid failing
Alarm / imobiliser
Borked HP fuel pump , but it probably would just turn over an never fire
Glow plug relay / conttroller jobby , again would just churn normally and not fire
Is there a drain on the fuel filter , its a quick 30 secs to see if its got water in ?

Possible crankshaft position sensor failure

Had a similar issue on a transit once - turned out the starter motor was sticking.

My money would be on crappy/broken connection somewhere or knackered starter.

If you've got the space then try a push start or if the starter is accessible smack it with something while turning the key.

Can you bump start it down a hill or anything?
Might help eliminate a few options (and point towards the starting system)

Glow plug relay / conttroller jobby , again would just churn normally and not fire

It probably would eventually - diesels are not solely reliant upon glow plugs to start.

Spent the two non locked down summer months trying to sort a similar issue with a Boxer based motorhome. Hi pressure fuel pump was leaking but after it was replaced the engine cutting out/failing to start problem persisted. Turned out just to be a dodgy connection on the pump (the connection is exposed to spray coming up off the road and had got corroded). There were no fault codes. Give the connector a wiggle whilst someone else turns the engine over.

My dads movano had immobilized issue that was sorted by disconnecting battery for 10mins, might be worth a try. Make sure you have radio codes of course

Crank shaft position sensor should throw a retained error code most diagnostic readers would read, still is possible this
Cranking for extended periods to start a deisel by heating the head by compression will work eventually, but batteries take a hit and if its really cold can leave you stranded
Push starts, only if ypu have a method of returning it whence it came when it fails to fire, or fires and dies again.

Low fuel pressures not operating the Injectors correctly is a good shout,, lets in a tiny amount but pressure drops away quickly and then they dont open

Have you tried using easy start? If the glow plugs aren't working for any reason you can spray some of the magic rocket fuel in the air intake whilst turning it over. Once it fires a couple of times it should get going but a bit smokey for a few seconds.
I had to do this for a couple of weeks with my T4 a few years ago until I fixed them.
Might not work but if it does then start with the glow plugs.
Hope this helps.

Sounds like immobilizer to me. Had the exact symptoms on a Laguna (but much older P reg). Would fire but not maintain ignition. Had to get both keys reprogrammed to the car at a main stealer. Flawless after that.

Sounds like the starter motor.

To add to my guess above, have you tried the other key? If it's the car immobilizer it should do the same thing. It the key is the issue then the other key should start it.
This is all based on it being the immobilizer of course.

Thanks everyone who has replied.

I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. No joy.

I tried other key. No joy.

I’m reluctant to bump start as usually next doors car is in the way but when it isn’t our street heads down to a main rd so if it didn’t start then I’d have problems!

A crank pos sensor can fail and not give a code.

You need to plug it in and check to see for starters

You have an rpm signal
Fuel rail pressure

I'd also go for the crank position sensor, but you'd need equipment with live data to troubleshoot.

Easy start should be banned. Please dont use it.

I had a crankshaft sensor fail without fault code on my Vito. Really easy to change and only cost about£20. May be worth trying

so if it didn’t start then I’d have problems

You wouldn't have a problem stopping. 1st gear plus handbrake will stop on all but the steepest slopes. You might have a problem getting it back home.

What do you mean by fires once? Got a vid? What happens if you just keep the key turned for 20 seconds? Could just be a faulty ignition switch thats giving nothing when you leave it back to 2

Yes, it was getting it back from main rd that I am bothered about.

As I said, I turn the key and it fires as if it’s going to start and then cuts out. If I keep the key in position it just turns over but doesn’t fire again.

Get somebody to help, and work the fuel primer bulb while cranking. If it kicks in to life, either there is a minor leak in the fuel system allowing the fuel to run back (in which case it'll keep running once started), or the low pressure transfer pump has failed (in which case it'll cut out after you stop working the primer bulb).

Failing that, it really needs some way to view live data to see what is going on.

If it was an immobilizer fault, it would bring on the immobiliser warning light and not crank.

Have you checked to see if the pump is fueling the injectors?

Its definitely firing up at least once, and then cutting out? Definitely? It wont be the immobilizer. Its turning the starter quickly enough? Probably not the earth strap(s).

If its definitely, definitely starting then cutting out, even briefly, then check fuelling. Start with the basics and check the filter. In good condition and not blocked? As its a 1.9 Dci, get the lift pump checked. These have an interesting arrangement; there's no in-tank pump, instead, there's a tandem pump on the high pressure pump that pulls fuel up from the tank, and this is turned by a shaft from the cam. The shaft breaks silently and hence no fuel is raised from the tank. It wont get a code on a reader.

These are the cheap checks, start with these.

Had similar all this year, so Nice Mr AA man called out,firstly AGR valve blocked, cleaned out and engine stated and ran for quite a few weeks, then it wouldnt start, AA again and Same problem some agr cleaner from Halfords in fuel and load of crud out the back, and worked again for a few months, then it went again, agr disconnected and it worked till it went again, garage cleaned out agr valve and something connected to it, said may be worth replacing, and then it wouldnt start again AA man again, computer said key fault, new key, £175, or £95 £65 or £45,strange how a key has so much value, new key and no problems since, just passed its MOT no faults at 174,000 miles and nothing replaced, try a new key and agr cleaner in tank and speedy acceleration in the dark on a quiet road and look for a black cloud of crap out the back.

oh andd switch headlights on and windscreen wipers and start engine if wipers slow and lights dim, its a poor battery that lacks power.

Our Note did this a couple of Christmases ago, lots of cranking but no star. It turned out to be a faulty injector. (1.5DCi Renault engine). On the plus side we had a refurbed injector fitted, on the minus £500 on Christmas Eve and also the clowns didn't put the trim pieces back together properly leaving hoses and plastic components flapping around under the bonnet.

Sounds like the fuel pump. Have you serviced it and changed the fuel filter regularly ?

Make sure the primer bulb isn't split or have a hole. Mine did this . It would start then die and really battle to get it started again. Turns out it was sucking air through the bulb. Couldn't find a replacement so ended up using bike puncture repair kit. No problems since.

Only really worked it out when I was looking at the fuel line and it was full of bubbles.

Is it turning but not starting?

My Vivaro has been doing that, new fuel filter and it worked for a while but it's still reluctant to start in the cold.

Suspect maybe Glow plugs but nothing showing on diagnostic and it usually won't repeat the problem for the garage (since it's warmed up on way there).

Chaka....

Can be a sign of injector failure that mate.

You need to not guess and plug it in.

I've a cheap code reader but it doesn't do live data and that's what you need to check

Cheers Duncan, the garage reckon they've got the right kit but nothing shows up.

They are very honest and wouldn't charge me for it, and don't wanna do anything on guesswork.

So I think I have to wait for something to fail properly. Which is frustrating.

Needs a leak back test doing on it really. If it is leak back you may not get a code.

Though they also do so wiring on the n/s wing from memory.

All a code is a flagged error on a value that's out of spec. Doesn't mean it's a sensor or not faulty.

It can only ping an error for a value it's not seeing so a mechanical fault wont always show if you see what I mean.

Sounds like the sensor on the fuel rail.

Fixed a similar problem on my Relay recently, turned out to be EGR valve stuck open a small amount. Did throw a code though.

Things it almost certainly is not, contrary to many suggestions above is....glow plugs.

If I was fault finding this I'd trace the fuel system making sure it was working.It does sound like a fuel pressure issue largely.

If I've read it correctly, turn key, van turns over for about 1 second, starter motor stops and then key is unresponsive.

I'm not an expert on Vauxhalls but that doesn't sound like a glow plug/fuelling/injector or bad fuel problem, I would expect the van to keep cranking until you release the key.

I would rule out an issue with the battery earth strap (you can't measure the resistance as it could look fine until you pull a load through it) Physically check it, give it a yank, if still unsure, use a single jump lead to connect the battery negative to the engine lifting eye (makes a second earth). Then get the battery tested, I think it's called a drop tester.

Then I'd resort to a Vauxhall forum, could be immobiliser but I'd expect to see a key or Padlock symbol on the dash.

When did you fill it up last?

Did you definitely fill it with diesel and not petrol?

Wrong fuel wouldn't stop it cranking over though.

You're correct, it wouldn't.

It fires once but doesn’t catch.

But this part of his post suggests that it's cranking but not firing.

Renault forums point towrd water imngress from blovked scuttle drains leading to a plethora of bad earths and failing connectors
And ****y mountings on the airbox, which rubs continually on s load of important wires leadingbto a plethora of bad earths and tings

If I’ve read it correctly, turn key, van turns over for about 1 second, starter motor stops and then key is unresponsive.

That's not what I understood as there's no mention of trying again in OP. Immobiliser fault should normally show as dead to the world at all times and no turning over.

It does sound like an injector has either died or is on the way out. Ours took several months between poor starting to not starting at all. (I rarely drive it as it's a hateful thing and herself expects it to just work without being looked after/checked).

OP. Immobiliser fault should normally show as dead to the world at all times and no turning over.

Is that particular to this engine/van ?

Because on my iveco I have a dumb key for locking up when we are out swimming so no fear of getting it wet it has no immob chip in and the van will turn over till cows come home but will not fire.

I still think fuel.

If its key fault you'd see an imu error.

You got breakdown? Their kit should scan it to the point it should check all the systems not just engine ECU.

You need a leak off test doing.

Btw pulling injectors on these can be horrific. I've a couple of contacts for doing this.

Don't forget the immobiliser is also reliant on the key to work as that has the RFID chip in it. My non-diesel Citroen Picasso was playing up in a similar manner and it turned out the RFID chip in the key had been damaged. A new key was all it took - getting the dealer code etc needed to to allow someone to program a new key was a bit of a faff mind!

I had exactly the same symptom on a diesel renault car. It was the immobiliser. Only the main dealer had the tech to diagnose and sort it.

an immob usually isolates the fuel pump and ignition circuit. So it wouldnt catch, if it was immob related. Likewise if it is electrical.

Since we're straw polling i'm going with fuel related i.e the pump(s). Try and listen to them prime. You could even whip a fuel hose off and see. Could just be an airlock too.

To thise aying that the immob will not allow it to turn over, that may be right for some vehicles/man's. The laguna I mentioned on page 1 did in fact turn over and 'fire once' as per the OP description. Some how a small amount of fuel was getting in far enough to fire but then the fuel system was cut so not able to keep running.

More modern systems could be different, ie not allowing the ignition to crank it at all.

Just passing on my experience.

Remember this one? Well, after the van being immobile outside the house for weeks due to holidays and bad weather I finally managed to get someone out to have a look. The garage that does the MOT's recommended a local auto electrician. Apart from him smirking tabs in my van he was very good. After a good deal of investigation and head scratching he got it running by disconnecting the Mass Air Flow meter sensor. I am now going to buy an OE one (there are cheapo one's available which don't last long apparently) and sling it in. It's a piece of the proverbial to fit by the looks of it. If that doesn't work then it could be the ECU. Crossing my fingers it's not that. ££££

Remember this one? Well, after the van being immobile outside the house for weeks due to holidays and bad weather I finally managed to get someone out to have a look. The garage that does the MOT’s recommended a local auto electrician. Apart from him smirking tabs in my van he was very good. After a good deal of investigation and head scratching he got it running by disconnecting the Mass Air Flow meter sensor. I am now going to buy an OE one (there are cheapo one’s available which don’t last long apparently) and sling it in. It’s a piece of the proverbial to fit by the looks of it. If that doesn’t work then it could be the ECU. Crossing my fingers it’s not that. ££££

With modern cars they have so many systems that aim to make them run more efficiently and able to diagnose any issues that it is more often than not these systems that cause the faults.