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Firstly, is it possible to cut planks from some of the timber from our old roof? I'd need maybe a 6"+ cut and even though I've got a decent Makita table saw, I think about 3" is its limit. I have doubts a sawmill or joiner would touch it due to the possible presence of old/hidden ironwork e.g. nails in it?
Secondly, how do you best go about creating/routing a profile on timber to make your own pictureframes/architraves etc?
any help greatly appreciated!
AK.
When you say 6"/3", do you mean depth?
As for the routing questions, not being lazy but the best place to look for that stuff is YouTube. There are literally thousands of videos on routering.
You need a table saw that will cut 6 inches deep plus,with a side fence, anything else and youre risking a kickback, which is dangerous , and can jam the blade severely, never use a hand held saw to deep cut.
Just pop to any timber merchant and buy new stock.
as for routering best to use a router table and profiled cutters, expensive and dangerous till youre trained to use them properley, looks down at missing top of finger.
Google "Matthias Wandel pantorouter" for your second question.
6" deeping will be a struggle for anything other than a mill, what is the timber? It'd have to be very good to be worth it!
Cut 3" deep, flip the timber and cut 3" from the other side. As long as your table saw is setup straight it'll be golden. Table saw is the only way to do this reliably, I do it quite regularly. You will need to plane the timber after, but you'll be doing this anyway if you're doing proper joinery with it.
The second option, well worth considering, is hand sawing it if you have a good sharp saw.
[edit]As for routing, you just need a bearing guided bit with the profile you like, run it along the wood.
As mentioned, head to you tube and prepare to invest a lot of time and money in a new hobby 🙂
[edit 2]and bear in mind your roof timber is likely softwood, which will not be great at taking detailed profiles if you're planning on using that for picture frames - better sticking to a simpler joint and simply chamfering the edges with a plane or router.
6" is no problem is you have a tracking chainsaw...
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Double post
A Bandsaw is the best for cutting thick timber accurately,use a hand held metal detector to find rogue ironwork.
6" is no problem is you have a tracking chainsaw..
Fine on cross cuts but will a chain saw rip?
I want one whatever!
Cheers guys, liking the chainsaw even if it's probably not appropriate!
The wood consists of some oak purlins circa 400 years old, and some tight grained softwoods, not the stuff with 10mm growth rings like you get from builders merchants these days.
inch measurements are indeed depth of cut, not wheel size. I was wondering if there were hireable tools to do the job, the oak isn't straight enough to guide itself down a rip fence, so it would probably need a saw-on-rails rather than moving the wood if you know what I mean.
Even this absolutely terrifying weapon of a Makita isn't up to a 6" cut...
[url= http://www.makitauk.com/products/saws/circular-saws/all-circular-saws/5143r-355mm-circular-saw.html ]http://www.makitauk.com/products/saws/circular-saws/all-circular-saws/5143r-355mm-circular-saw.html[/url]
I have cut big stuff coming in from both sides with a handheld circular saw but not pretty. I suspect you'll need a near industrial planer-thicknesser to tidy up and make nice planks after cutting...
Hire a Wood-Mizer/portable mill type thing?