Corrosion and glue
 

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[Closed] Corrosion and glue

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Changing the switch that operates the glass hatch on my X type estate. The switch has an aluminium body that sits over a steel tube. It's nicely corroded together. Any tips for separating them? Given that its going through glass violence isn't an option.

Second problem is on the inside of the glass. There's a steel assembly that bolts to the glass. No problem with that. There's also little rubber pad that's been glued rather untidily when the main dealer changed the switch 5 years ago. Any ideas for weakening the glue enough to get the parts apart?

I know it's not a bike but I can't go ride until its fixed.


 
Posted : 26/01/2013 7:15 pm
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maybe try some sodium hydroxide to dissolve the aluminium a bit?


 
Posted : 26/01/2013 7:19 pm
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Try Nail varnish remover or Acetone


 
Posted : 26/01/2013 8:39 pm
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try soda water - honestly!


 
Posted : 26/01/2013 8:51 pm
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Stop being a show off/lazy git and just open the whole tailgate 🙂


 
Posted : 26/01/2013 9:24 pm
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Tried soda water - no joy. I'm now trying sodium hydroxide (Sainsbury's drain cleaner). Not getting very far - it's as if it's welded together.

Any other ideas?


 
Posted : 27/01/2013 12:40 pm
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You might soften the glue with paint stripper or nail varnish remover.

For the corrosion can you heat it at all? Otherwise I'd Google for a product or treat liberally with penetrating oil for a while.


 
Posted : 27/01/2013 12:52 pm
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For corrosion joined parts, the best stuff I've used is Plusgas liquid (not spray). It has worked many times where others have failed. Great stuff, smells evil though.


 
Posted : 27/01/2013 12:59 pm
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Glue was defeated with a mini hacksaw blade. I've got some Plusgas liquid in the garage. How long would I need to soak it for?


 
Posted : 27/01/2013 1:45 pm
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Not long in my experience - maybe an hour at most. Usually takes 5-10 minutes for most the stuff I've worked on. Best to keep an eye on it, just in case!


 
Posted : 27/01/2013 3:43 pm
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Just got this response from a Jaguar forum. honkiebikedude may have the answer!

I have the same problem and have been soaking it in Plus Gas or WD40 and "picking away" intermittently at the corrosion between the ally switch and tube with a thin metal spike for over 3 years now....... The only solution seems to be to replace (or break) the rear screen. I even took it to a main dealer to replace the switch in the hope that they may either know of a way to remove the old switch or cover the cost if they broke the screen trying (OK, hopeful I know) Not surprisingly they couldn't remove the old switch and returned the car saying they didn't want to risk breaking the rear screen but would do so if I covered the cost of replacement! For a while it just stayed permanently locked which I got used to. Since the last heavy rain it has started popping open again so am using the "lock the doors before inserting the ignition key" workaround again.


 
Posted : 27/01/2013 7:40 pm
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Get a road bike so you can ride from your front door.


 
Posted : 27/01/2013 8:15 pm
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What road bike for 175 miles each way with laptop and suitcase? 🙂


 
Posted : 27/01/2013 8:18 pm

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