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I am struggling to find information on-line. Our house came with corian worktops, so already installed. The cutout for the hob is a standard square one and as one on the halogen rings has just died, I was looking at whether we could replace it with a wider induction hob. The drawer under the hob is an extra wide one so the carcass is wide enough.
I can't find much about cutting corian when it is already installed (can't turn it upside down and cut it from underneath), so I would be interested whether it is a DIY job or how I should go about finding someone to cut it out for me ?
I have fitted std worktops before and have access to a router / circular saw / jigsaw, but confess that cutting stuff straight is not easy for me. I have thought about making an mdf jig and using a router, but wondering whether a downwards cutting blade on a jigsaw would be enough ?
Grateful for any advice, all advice welcome. I can't get away with breaking it as it is a long piece and the whole kitchen is full of it.
I am in Warrington, if you know of a local corian worktop fitter.
Hi
If you do damage corian it can be repaired, it actually comes in lengths then the installer kind of melts them together so the seams disappear. I can find a tiny seam in one area of our kitchen but that's because I know where to look....
If the edge you cut will be hidden by the overhang of the hob then I'd give it a go cutting it myself.
During the installation there was an incredible amount of swarf which stuck to absolutely everything so be prepared if you cut it yourself. It is not corian all the way through the worktop either.
From a practical perspective it looks as great now as when it was installed and I'd choose it again.
Good luck
I’d go the router route after seeing a mate do his that way.
I've routered it before. No issues. Clamp down a straight edge to run the router along. I reckon you get away with jigsawing it with a fine blade if the edge is hidden but I've not tried that.
Thanks all !
but confess that cutting stuff straight is not easy for me.
See if you can borrow a track and matching router, makes getting perfect straight edges childs play. I'm always lending out my track saw, super handy if you need to cut anything down eg a door etc.
Might not need cutting. Often the part that sits below the worktop is standard size just with more overhang.
Again, thanks all.
Will do some checking this evening. My enthusiasm for diy diminished at the same time I started mountain biking.
I did make a saw guide for my 18v circular saw years ago (for trimming doors), but the challenge will be how to clamp it to the back of the worktop. A mdf template and router could be more foolproof and easier to clamp and I can extract it if I find all of the bits. As long as it doesn't splinter the worktop I will be happy.
Corian is quartz right..
It'll make a significant amount of dust cut dry. You also need to have radius at inside corners to prevent stress risers particularly for a drop in cook top.
Corian is quartz right..
Nope, it's an acrylic modified with aluminium hydroxide.
but the challenge will be how to clamp it to the back of the worktop.
You can often get by using strong double-sided tape to stick down templates.
It can actually damage the fibres of wood when removing it's often that strong, but it should be fine on a worktop I'd say.
Double sided sticky or hot glue Doted round the edge rather than under.
I’ve fitted avonite before which I think is similar if not the same material. Router is best but it creates loads of dust and I’m pretty sure I remember reading that it is carcinogenic so mask up
Depending how much your enlarging it I’ve had good success using a rebate bit, then flush trim bit so no need for the jig
but the challenge will be how to clamp it to the back of the worktop.
If you put some packers between the back wall and the guide so it can't slide back then you should be fine (or use a plank the exact width). That's the only load, and the only way a slide will cause issues. A bit of tape will help but probably isn't needed.
Jigsaws really struggle with this. A rail saw works great with several passes say 5mm at a time. As mentioned above corners need radiused, just drill them with a fast bit before you start. Any material uncut with the saw can be cut with a handsaw or multitool.
This stuff is surprisingly easy to work with, you can cut it with a hand saw if you want to. Drill holes in the corners (6mm or more) and go at is slowly with the jig saw. The edges will be covered by the overlap on the hob so it doesn't need to be perfect.
Corian fabricator here.
The cut out should be finished with a router, double thickness with "mouse ears' at corners. The aluminium tape that should be around the cut out is a heat sink and should be replaced, especially around a hob cut out.
All this is so that the top does not crack at the corners
Thanks Rover, I guess that 'mouse ears' can be made by drilling the corners with a larger drill bit and double thickness is cutting it with 2 passes ?
Right, as long as you dont get the size wrong and cut beyond the maximum aperture for your new hob, then a jigsaw will be fine as any ragged edges will be hidden under the hob.
Mark out then cut out, simple as really. Corian is a special surface when it comes to joining and doing bits that are visible, but concealed under something that the cut doesnt show, then its just like every other work surface, so dont get worried or intimidated by it.
Am I getting this right, that theres already the cut out for the old hob, and youre just enlarging it for the new hob 😕
That the case then jigsaw working from the inside of the cut out, to your line, along line, following all the lines in the rectangle, and as its hidden doesnt really even have to be straight.
If you really want to uise a router, you'll need an accurate jig and some double sided tape, a fair powered router and a nice new bit. But all in all thats to much like hard work and effort. Jigsaw cut you'll be done and fitted in 20 minutes.
Do not leave the jig saw cut, always finish with router, the vertical scoring left by jigsaw could be the start of a crack.
Double thickness refers to the thickness, glue another layer under top surface.
This is generally a pretty messy job (dusty), could be worth getting a fabricator in .....and getting them to do the clearing up, which typically is longer than the actual job!
Cheers
Thanks @Rover, how do I find a local fabricator ? I have been trying to find one using search engines, but it is not obvious who provides this service.
Nope, it’s an acrylic modified with aluminium hydroxide.
Sounds awesome.
Try "Joiner"
Or kitchen fitters, but there fitters fit and joiners er well Join. Or a cabinetmakers, where you'll pay more. But just phone a local joiners and ask if they work with corian.
Binman, as 69er-Gav follow links via cduk, this should find you a fabricator/fitter.
Sorry I can't help, live "over-seas"
Cheers all, took all the drawers out to check what it looked like underneath. It's in a 120 cm cabinet so loads of room. The comments about strengthening the cut edges and heat shield cut edges made sense.
Will see if I can get some quotes in before I commit.