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Jolmes
Dewalt on special, 899cf is the SKU iirc
Then treat ypurself to either the Dewalt or Makita drill bit and impact driver carry case.
Loads of gear in there, some you might never use but some of it essential.
Register oline for the extended warranty for 3vyears peace of mind. Comes in a very robust carry case, charger and 2 x 2.0ah batteries which will be fine for half day diy.
If you want to get onto adbanced diy and do decking, fencing or flooring then add a couple of batteries at a later date
This set combined with an entry level Titan sds will do most households tasks with ease
Been thinking about replacing my aging (probably 12 years old :-O ) drill driver with a twin pack following this thread and doing a bit of work on a site with some more professional trades. Would say I'm a pretty heavy DIY user.
Have seen the comments above about 12V but I'm still skeptical - I'd rather have power to spare than be forcing a tool. That said, I have a Makita SDS drill which gets used for the heavy duty stuff, and a bench drill which gets used in preference at home. Although next project will involve driving 3" x 1/4" screws into decking, so maybe I was right the first time.
Always thought unless you're using it for a living, as long as you have two batteries, you're pretty well covered since you'll always have a fresh one available.
Don't use any other cordless tools and unlikely too, so battery compatibility not really an issue.
Current driver is an 18V Erbauer which, as above, has been remarkably long-lived.
Erbauer twinpack with 2x2Ah looks decent at £150:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-eid18-li-ecd18-li-2-18v-2-0ah-li-ion-ext-brushless-cordless-twin-pack/542fv
But for an extra £50 you can get a slightly more powerful DeWalt set, again 2x2Ah, with the confidence of a top brand:
Or the same with 2x4Ah for the same price (better value, but as above, not sure I wouldn't prefer the 2Ahs):
(@jolmes have you seen that? Think it's been added since I looked a couple of days ago and it fits your brief pretty well)
WWSTWD?
Given what I said about batteries above, this also seems a decent buy, assuming it's not some watered-down version for B&Q: same as the DeWalts in my previous post (AFAICT) but with 2x1.5Ah, £40 cheaper
All depends on use rates imo
A few weekends a year for a few hours, go Erbaurer. Every weekend plus, go Dewalt or Makita. But budget for decent bits as all are supplied with none.
Box of pz2 or as mentioned a carry case job from Makita
For you decking, an impact driver will cruise tapping 75mm screws into wood.
Just get a box of Spax and be done with it
Better to have multiple smaller batteries thsn you can use 1 and charge 1 simultaneously and then swap over
assuming it’s not some watered-down version for B&Q:
It's not brushless. Will be less powerful, less efficient and probably heavier, negating the benefit of the smaller battery.
Probably fine for general DIY but I'd go for the better options from Screwfix
I've just bought a ryobi 18v kit as I have some older ryobi stuff and its mint.
I know theres not a lot of love for ryobi but I like it performance vs pounds cant fault it.
Ryobi and Milwaukee are the same business group.
It’s not brushless.
Good spot. On closer inspection, some of the DeWalt part numbers are suffixed BQGB (B&Q Great Britain, presumably) and they all appear to be brushed, whereas Screwfix mostly have parts suffixed SFGB which seem to all be brushless. Some BQGB available at Screwfix (same parent company) but clearly differentiating the two target markets. Much like Bosch blue vs/ green, but more subtly (sneakily, if you're cynical).
Cheers @singletrackmind. Definitely the latter use case. Got plenty of bit sets and a lifetime's supply of PZ2s.
one of the reasons I like Makita is that they don't have (AFAIK) a consumer brand alongside the "pro" one... Bosch blue/green like you say, De Walt have Black & Decker, etc. You can't tell me that some parts from the budget range never make it into the pro ones for reasons of economics!Some BQGB available at Screwfix (same parent company) but clearly differentiating the two target markets. Much like Bosch blue vs/ green, but more subtly (sneakily, if you’re cynical).
one of the reasons I like Makita is that they don’t have (AFAIK) a consumer brand alongside the “pro” one
They do but it's pretty unpopular so you rarely see it
Seen a few recommendations for urbauer on here. Wouldn't touch them, boss picked one up and it worked fine but the battery lifespan was terrible. Binned it and went Hitachi, lasted really well and retired it to shed use. Got a Makita twin pack drill and impact driver. 4ah I think, absolutely ace.
A mate took a urbauer drill back to Screwfix with a blown gearbox. Assistant said, 'what do you expect, it's urbauer'.
I think they part exchanged it for something a bit more robust.
one of the reasons I like Makita is that they don’t have (AFAIK) a consumer brand alongside the “pro” one… Bosch blue/green like you say, De Walt have Black & Decker, etc. You can’t tell me that some parts from the budget range never make it into the pro ones for reasons of economics!
Funnily enough, after my last post I went off to look at Makita sets as I thought the same. You pay for it though. Part of that is because the smallest batteries they seem to do are 3Ah (that B&Q one excepted), but I guess that makes sense if they're aimed fair and square at the trade.
Those bad Erbauer experiences seem to be the exception rather than the rule. As I said, my current driver has had about 12 years of reasonably heavy DIY use. I had the pair of (NiMH) batteries refurbed about 7 years ago, and they're again getting to the end of their life, but that's to be expected. The gearbox is starting to get quite a bit of backlash in it, hence wanting to retire it before it dies on me, but I think that's not unreasonable.
Ahh, 3 pages of conflicting advice, covering just about every brand available. 😆
Don't forget generalisations based on a single anecdotal experience! 😉
What else did you expect?!
Makita'a red MT range is for "discerning" DIYers. If your discernment starts and ends with the price tag.
Those bad Erbauer experiences seem to be the exception rather than the rule
Possibly, my drill use is trade, I don't have to get my drill out often but when I do it's fairly relentless and often involves drilling stainless.
Couldn't say what sort of abuse my mate gave his but certainly trade use.
Quick slight hijack; I have some decking that could do with being taken up, and cleaned out underneath. I tried undoing one of the screws earlier, after carefully picking out the dirt that had accumulated in the head, and my 18V drill couldn't shift it, and rounded off the head. I'm just wondering if an impact driver would be a better tool for that job, or would it just do the same? Yes, I know better quality screws should have been used, but I didn't install the decking. I'd really rather not have to drill every single one out...
Yes an impact driver will have much much better chance of success.
Along with ensuring you’re using exactly the right size bit and good quality to boot.
Maybe get a pressure washer over the whole deck first?
Ryobi and Milwaukee are the same business group.
And if Ryobi was anything like the same quality it would be red and say Milwaukee.
It's Ryobi batteries love of *keeping the house cosy* that puts me off.
Yes an Erbauer impact driver with a set of Bosch bits would get those decking screws out. An impact driver pushes as it turns so doesn't round the heads (except I did earlier today fitting footstraps to a windsurfer as I mistakenly put a Posi bit into a Philips).
I love all my Erbauer tools (except their sanders) as much as I love my Festools.
And if Ryobi was anything like the same quality it would be red and say Milwaukee.
It’s Ryobi batteries love of *keeping the house cosy* that puts me off.
Posted 2 hours ago
Surely that can be said of any Li packs they'll be made from one of the big battery players?
I dont know req quality. Mine are used DIY wise and my auto drive 18v is 10yrs old and still in good nick. Used it to renovate my old gaff and countless other jobs.
Pays your money etc
An impact driver pushes as it turns so doesn’t round the heads
Not quite, the impact is a rotational impulse force. It doesn’t “push” down on the screw. Because the torque (the rotation force) is delivered an impact, the bit doesn’t get a chance to “torque out” of the screw before the next impact arrives.
Yes an impact driver will have much much better chance of success.
Oh that's marvellous. I only wish I'd bought one in a set, when I bought my drill last year or whenever it was. I'll get a DeWalt, because that's what my drill is, and I can swap batteries, but which one?? There seem to be loads just in the DeWalt range! And what's the difference between an impact 'driver' and a 'wrench'?
Do I need a Festool?
Impact wrench will have a 1/2" square tip for sockets for car stuff. You want a driver with a 1/4" hex socket
As for models, brushless is better if you can find one at the right price. Other than that it'll be about power and modes.
Looking to invest in a twin set ahead of some bigger diy projects so read the opinions on brand choices above....one thing I'm potentially keen on is over time widening my use of the batteries to a mower (preferably with roller) and strimmer.
A Quick search shows ryobi, makita and dewalt do them but they seem to be just wheeled mowers. Anyone know if any of the brands do a roller mower for their battery system?
Impact wrench will have a 1/2″ square tip for sockets for car stuff. You want a driver with a 1/4″ hex socket
As for models, brushless is better if you can find one at the right price. Other than that it’ll be about power and modes.
Nice. So; from DeWalt's very extensive range, which one?? I want something that will last, obviously, so not the very cheapest, but it's not for daily use either, so not a full on 'pro' model. 18V, so I can swap the batteries if need be. Don't need multiple batteries either.
So; from DeWalt’s very extensive range, which one??
This looks pretty good value:
https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Dewalt-Dcf809N-0885911593182-18V-Brushless-Impact-Driver-Bare-Unit
But i'd probably pay a tenner more and get the three speed model
https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Dewalt-Dcf887N-5035048616130-18V-Xr-Brushless-3-Speed-Impact-Driver-Bare-Unit
But i’d probably pay a tenner more and get the three speed model
Many thanks. I think that's the one I'm going for. Now, the only dilemma is whether to get the kit with battery and charger, and have yet another big plastic box to have to find somewhere for/get rid of, or a bare unit and single battery. I prefer the smaller, lower capacity batteries, because not only do they make the tool a good bit lighter and easier to use, they are quicker to charge and I don't really need many hours of use out of them. The 1.5AH one I have with my drill, I never use anywhere near it's capacity. A spare charger might be useful though...
I'm in the same boat re needed small bursts of activity generally and a loghter tool seems sensible but is the AH figure just about storage capacity of the battery or does a bigger number deliver a bigger punch to the motor as suggested in a youtube video I saw?
Generally its for longer run time but I have heard it said that higher capacity batteries have a lower internal resistance so give more power. Can't say I've noticed a difference between my 5 and 3 Ah batteries though so for me if they do it's pretty marginal.
I have heard it said that higher capacity batteries have a lower internal resistance so give more power.
But surely, 18v is 18v, right?
Seems you can get a 2Ah battery, which is the same size and weight as the 1.5 (which I think is just a OEM version they ship with budget packages). But I could get a kit with case, charger and 2 batteries, and flog off the case, charger and spare. If I can be bothered.
But surely, 18v is 18v, right?
Yes, but power =v²/r so a lower internal resistance for the same voltage will give more power. As I said it's not been noticeable for me so I wouldn't worry about it. That impact driver will be plenty powerful
As for kits vs bare, I like to buy bare tools as it tends to work out cheaper (other than the odd bargain deal for a drill kit to get you hooked into their system). The cases are always rubbish.
yeah, I've got a few batteries now so always look out for deals on bare tools... bought a Makita cordless SDS at virtually the same price as corded a while back! I think their cases are decent, definitely help with storage & transportation when you've got a few! Bought a cordless multi-tool recently without one and regret it now 🤣As for kits vs bare, I like to buy bare tools as it tends to work out cheaper (other than the odd bargain deal for a drill kit to get you hooked into their system). The cases are always rubbish.
bridges
Free MemberBut surely, 18v is 18v, right?
Sure but you need voltage and current to make things happen and some batteries can deliver a lot more amps than others. Same as how pretty much all car and motorbike batteries are 12V but some can spin over a big cold diesel and some can't.
Different batteries will droop differently too as they discharge- so you'll see less than 18V under load. But that's managed more and more by the electronics.
I have heard it said that higher capacity batteries have a lower internal resistance so give more power.
Correct, they have multiple cells in parallel so have lower internal resistance and can deliver more current.
18Vs is normally 5 cells in series, say at 2 - 2.5 Ah per cell gives an 18V 2Ah / 2.5Ah battery pack.
a 4/5Ah battery pack will be two sets of 5 cells in parallel, which can give twice the current.
6Ah battery pack will be three sets of 5 cells in parallel, which can give 2x the current of a 2Ah battery pack.
I normally just use 2Ah battery packs as they are light and small but occasionally my drill driver gets stuck and I have to use a 4AH pack so it can drill through something tough.
You're right that a 4Ah pack could theoretically supply roughly (ignoring internal resistance) twice the current of a 2Ah pack but there must be some other limit on the current... either in the battery management chip or the converter. There's no way a driver supplied with 2Ah batteries is only operating at half it's rated output power, or that they'd supply a battery that was compatible and capable of supplying twice the rated current.
You’re right that a 4Ah pack could theoretically supply roughly (ignoring internal resistance) twice the current of a 2Ah pack but there must be some other limit on the current… either in the battery management chip or the converter.
A 4Ah battery pack has half the internal resistance of a 2Ah battery pack (assuming most of the resistance is in the cells themselves).
The cells themselves will have a max current draw limit based on their own internal resistance - I suspect this will be the ultimate limit on the max current draw. They might cap it with the battery protection cicruitry but I'm guessing that's quite tricky to do reliably. Someone on Youtube will have done a proper tear down of a battery pack and looked at the control circuit.
Foot flaps has it spot on
Trust me, I’m a doctor of electronic engineering.
I also enjoy using my 1.5ah battery with my combi and impact, but use the 4ah packs on other tools that need as much power as they can get. Put it this way, I’ve never felt impact driver lacks power, but the circular saw on the other hand can struggle. So I always use the 4ah on the saw and it makes a significant and noticeable difference.
@thenorthwind I ended up getting this - https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dck2060m2t-sfgb-18v-4-0ah-li-ion-xr-brushless-cordless-twin-pack/362jt
Been using both all weekend to remove and refit a kitchen and both have been amazing. The impact took a few mins to get used to as it was so forceful compared to my ryobi. It twice snapped a couple of screws in half removing them. User error I'm guessing or old screws.
Got the extended warranty and the 100 pack of drill bits, also invaluable as it had some parts I didnt even know I needed, the circular hole drill bit was awesome for the pipe work.
Didnt ever think I'd be so happy with a drill purchase. They've come in handy so much, living in a house built with engineers bricks is horrific.
Trust me, I’m a doctor of electronic engineering.
So am I as it happens, but my area of expertise is in electromagnetic design so I'm not so familiar with battery stuff but have colleagues who are.
The maximum discharge rate (i.e. current) of cells is generally specified as a function of capacity: e.g. a 2Ah cell with discharge rate of "2C" can source 4A. I doubt this would change depending on how the cells are configured in a pack, so a pack with 2 2C cells in parallel should have a theoretical discharge rate of twice the pack capacity, i.e 8A.
The internal resistance shouldn't be significant, except maybe at low state of charge.
If a battery with twice the capacity actually gave out twice the current then it would last the same length of time. That is not the case. There isn't a noticeable power increase at the tool ime and the bigger capacity batteries last longer. They may have a theoretical higher power discharge but in practice something else in system must be limiting it.
For some more powerful tools you are advised to use higher capacity batteries so these tools may be throttled if a smaller battery is used
There isn’t a noticeable power increase at the tool ime
There is no difference with the 1.5s in impact or drill
But on the grinder and circular saw. They are pathetic on the 1.5.
Tool doesn't throttle the battery just doesn't have a high enough discharge rate.
Ordered the DCF887 with 2x5Ah batteries, charger and case for £179.95*. Not bad. Flogging the spare battery, charger and case should recoup a few quid at least. I know a couple of people who use DeWalt stuff, so a spare battery is always useful to them. I can always pop the smaller battery on for quick jobs anyway, so it'll be good to have the choice there.
*Toolstation. The 2x2Ah kit is actually a tenner dearer! Collection only, and Bermondsey! Still, it's a bike ride.
Picked up the DCF887; slight issue with me not having photo ID on me to collect the item, which I wasn't aware that I needed, but sorted out. Not had a chance to properly try it out yet; it's quiet, warm and sunny and neighbours are all in their gardens, so I don't want to piss them all off. You can definitely feel the torque in the thing though; the drill driver is pretty powerful, but this thing feels like it'll shift anything. And the 5Ah battery doesn't actually feel too bad; it's noticeably heavier than the smaller one, but doesn't make the tool unwieldy as I thought it might. Brrm! Man have tool! Man have power!
There is no difference with the 1.5s in impact or drill
But on the grinder and circular saw. They are pathetic on the 1.5.
This is precisely my experience.
As for why;
If a battery with twice the capacity actually gave out twice the current then it would last the same length of time.
A source doesn’t give out more current just because it can. It depends on the load trying to draw it. A UK ring main can deliver 32A to a socket but fortunately that doesn’t cause 32A to come out of every socket.
So am I as it happens, but my area of expertise is in electromagnetic design so I’m not so familiar with battery stuff but have colleagues who are.
The maximum discharge rate (i.e. current) of cells is generally specified as a function of capacity: e.g. a 2Ah cell with discharge rate of “2C” can source 4A. I doubt this would change depending on how the cells are configured in a pack, so a pack with 2 2C cells in parallel should have a theoretical discharge rate of twice the pack capacity, i.e 8A.
The internal resistance shouldn’t be significant, except maybe at low state of charge.
I’m not big on batteries either, and I hope I didn’t come across all authorative, but I did want to put some credence to my claim.
Internal resistance is really analogous to (the same thing as) discharge rate. There’s no actual resistor in the battery, but since it has a voltage that falls off as you draw more current, you can consider an equivalent ohmic resistance. That explanation’s for the electronic people. For everyone else:
These batteries are IME made of multiple 3.7v lithium cells. When you get a 4ah 18v battery it has twice the number of cells as a 2ah 18v battery, wired in parrelel. This doubles the discharge rate, or halved the apparent internal resistance however you prefer to say it/understand it.
With a light load such as a drill, you’ll rarely try and draw more load than the battery can supply.
With, eg, a circular saw with a large motor, it may be capable of drawing more than the 2ah battery can supply. In such cases a larger battery will meet the demand and you’ll notice the increased power, as I have.
So, it’s not the battery capacity that causes it to be more powerful as such. It’s an accident. If the manufacturers also specified a peak discharge rate or internal resistance or peak current supply, you’d probably find these are always better in larger capacity batteries. (Maybe they do spec it somewhere, I’ve never looked...)
Me again. I'd pretty much made my mind up to get the DeWalt twinpack with 2x4Ah batteries for £200 from Screwfix. Realised given how much I use them, not spending an extra £50 on them is stupid.
But then I tried to upsell myself and started looking at Makitas, which I would prefer over DeWalt. Found this with 2x5Ah batteries for £230 - one left in stock at my local Screwfix, sold out everywhere else. https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dlx2336st-18v-5-0ah-li-ion-lxt-cordless-twin-pack/914jj#product_additional_details_container
Slightly less torque in both tools on paper, but I take the specs with a pinch of salt anyway. But the drill motor is brushed. Just because brushless is more advanced, doesn't make it better for the job, but the trend is towards brushless. Just that, a trend? Thoughts? Would YOU buy a brushed drill?
Brushless is better. More power and more efficient, but with those drills and batteries you'll likely have enough power and enough run time. I think they've actually kept the power about the same and made the new units smaller. I do like the brushless makita impact driver because it is very compact. Its fairly marginal gains though. I've got makita brushed and brushless drills and there's not that much in it. I do much prefer the makita system though. So many bare tools using the same battery.
Just got the DeWalt brushless drill driver with the metal chuck. Already had the batteries so was OK for £75. Tbh I'm a little bit underwhelmed - first impressions were good but then noticed there is a bit of play when the battery is clipped in so it doesn't feel brilliant. It'll probably do the job fine for many, many years but that little movement just cheapens the feel.
I've ended up in the DeWalt battery system as needed some garden tools as well. The Makita stuff looks the business and the range is very extensive, but some of the tools I needed were just too expensive to justify (long reach hedge cutters, pole saw etc). The DeWalt garden tools were a bit more palatable price wise and for me as a home user I'm unlikely to wear either the Makita or DeWalt out.
Just tried the impact driver out on some rusted old screws in some pieces of 'scrap' wood I'd salvaged; I think it's possibly Mahogany, it's certainly heavy and a gorgeous dark red. I'm going to strip the paint off, plane it all down smooth, and use it to make something, not sure what yet. The impact driver made short work of the stubborn old screws; it's very noisy though! Impressed so far, it all feels solid and reliable. Definitely far more capable for that kind of job, than the drill/driver.
The DeWalt TSTAK cases, like so many plastic cases you get with power tools, are shite. One piece moulded thing, so can't be used for other things very easily, and the plastic is cheap and flimsy. Contrast with Festool; I have a couple of bits in Systainer cases (designed by German company Tanos, I believe), and they are so much better, not least because you can remove the inner plastic moulded specific insert, and use the cases for loads of other things. Much better quality plastic too. I have a Bosch sander with an L-Boxx, and that's not as bad as the DeWalt, but still not great. I can't see that lasting very long with rugged daily use. I might just buy a couple more Systainer cases to store all my power tools in.
One quick mention for Bosch Green tools though; I have an older 14v drill driver, and whilst it's not up to the DeWalt, it's still a remarkably good little drill/driver, and perfect for quick jobs around the house. Might not drill into reinforced concrete, but it'll cope with most things. Good battery life, mine's lasted many years now. Small, light and easier to use. I think I paid about £60 in a homebase sale, so worth looking out for such things in bank holiday deals. In my experience, Bosch green tools are better than most other 'DIY' type stuff.
If it was on special offer, and you turn up and the price has gone up to rrp ask if the old price can be honoured.
Might need a manager sign off, or ask if they will meet in the middle.
Buy a Makita if you like wobbly chucks.
I've had Makita kit for 11 years and never experienced this
My work sees my kit get some abuse and I've always been happy with Makita.
Only replaced one burnt out combi drill in that time and I have a large amount of stuff.
If I was starting again, I'd go Milwaukee if not Makita.
I'm starting to sniff around the 40v Makita stuff - they do a 1600nm impact wrench
If I was starting again, I’d go Milwaukee if not Makita.
Any particular reason? I've used and owned all sorts, from cheapo MacAllister and LiDL Parkside, through to Bosch, Makita, Festool etc. My Festool plunge saw feels better than other brands I've used, but for stuff like my drill and impact driver, I just went with the DeWalt because they were on offer and good value for money. I don't use stuff on 'site', so I'm not experienced with heavy duty daily use. I'd have thought that there's not much, if anything, between Bosch, Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee though. Makita and DeWalt always seem the most popular brands I see on sites. Interested if Milwaukee are seen as 'better' though.
Any particular reason?
Not much reason really, apart from other contractors seem to rave about the Fuel range being the best
Not much reason really, apart from other contractors seem to rave about the Fuel range being the best
I've always found it really difficult to get any sort of 'consensus' on what tools are the 'best'. Sometimes, certain brands do particular things really well; I bought the Festool plunge saw on the basis it seemed to be the best in terms of function and value. I would choose other tools (drills, drivers, sanders) over Festool because their versions are ludicrously expensive and offer no significant advantage for real world use. I think all brands have their strengths and weaknesses, and do some things better than others. I've just bought a Bosch green belt sander to do some decking boards, because I basically need it for just this one job really, and even with a load of belts, it's still cheaper and far less faff than hiring something. If it's still good when I've finished, bonus.
Buy a Makita if you like wobbly chucks
I’ve had Makita kit for 11 years and never experienced this
This was an actual problem a bit back, chucks falling off and being rather wobbly. It was the first generation when the colour was white if im right in remembering 😕
Speaking of chucks; you can replace the plastic chucks on cheaper DeWalt drills with a metal one, they're £20 or less. Turns a £99 Wickes special into a £200+ model; the rest of the drills are near enough identical. I discovered this when examining mine (795) and our electrician's one (796), side by side. The plastic chucks are ok, but won't last long if bashed around.
I’ve just bought a Bosch green belt sander to do some decking boards
It's a beast. Had a test spin, and it'll leave grooves in wood if you're not careful! Not particularly well damped, lots of vibration, and it's really noisy. Dust extraction isn't great; I do wish there was a universal dust extraction port connection system for tools, that you could just screw a hose onto. I'm bodging things with lots of bits of scavenged vacuum cleaner bits, and pieces of cut up inner tube.
Oh by the way; anyone got any tips on how to deal with the static build up from using the belt sander? It's nothing major, just like nettle stings, but a little alarming.
. I discovered this when examining mine (795) and our electrician’s one (796), side by side. The plastic chucks are ok, but won’t last long if bashed around.
Your electrician didn't mind you dismantling his drill?
Your electrician didn’t mind you dismantling his drill?
Didn't need to. You can see the difference is the chuck. There wasn't any significant weight difference to suggest the internal parts were any different; the more expensive 990 (I think) model has more substantial internals. The drills are essentially the same; the 795 is sold in 'DIY' outlets in budget packs (with low capacity batteries), the 796 sold more in 'professional' suppliers. The difference is a metal chuck, and marketing.
Edit: this is confused further because the 796 is apparently a slightly newer model (hence the 795 being sold off cheaper), with the newer one having a bit more power (on paper). So possibly slightly better electronics. Plus; Google suggests that you could also get a 795 with a metal chuck. Anyway; replacing the plastic chucks on the DIY shed models is probably a good idea for greater longevity.
there is, it's called a 3D printer 🤣 very handy, made an adapter to connect my Makita plunge saw to my Henry recently!I do wish there was a universal dust extraction port connection system for tools
No I mean built in to the tools themselves. Most extraction ports are plain, so any fittings are just push on, which isn't always ideal. Some sort of standardised thread attachment would be great. I'm not about to buy a 3D printer for something that will be no better than a fitting I can easily bodge.
Didn’t need to. You can see the difference is the chuck. There wasn’t any significant weight difference to suggest the internal parts were any different; the more expensive 990 (I think) model has more substantial internals. The drills are essentially the same; the 795 is sold in ‘DIY’ outlets in budget packs (with low capacity batteries), the 796 sold more in ‘professional’ suppliers. The difference is a metal chuck, and marketing.
Edit: this is confused further because the 796 is apparently a slightly newer model (hence the 795 being sold off cheaper), with the newer one having a bit more power (on paper). So possibly slightly better electronics. Plus; Google suggests that you could also get a 795 with a metal chuck. Anyway; replacing the plastic chucks on the DIY shed models is probably a good idea for greater longevity.
Reading this back, I realise it's really, really boring. I apologise.