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My wife does a bit of climbing and wants more gear
She's not that heavy and she doesn't do anything too hard (she's about a HVS girl I think) so I'd be surprised if she'd ever fall a long way between "nuts" - I think she mostly lets other people lead but I suppose this might be her wanting to start ?
My girls want to buy her some (screwgate) karabiners for christmas
What is it that we want ?
Try DMM and if they still exist Clog.
Any will be safe, just some will be lighter than others. Dmm or wild country are decent brands.
They all pass the same tests, so not a lot to pick between really.
I use DMM currently having used clog in the past, and really rate them. Do you know if it's an HMS type you need or a more 'normal' screwgate?
DMM for me.
I don't know what HMS even means 😳Do you know if it's an HMS type you need or a more 'normal' screwgate?
SOme seem to have a weight limit whereas others list "force". SHoud I care, or will a 60kg burd (plus some gear) not stress any of them ?
or will a 60kg burd (plus some gear) not stress any of them ?
That sort of weight is nothing for a karabiner
DMM - Made in Wales.
If she is mostly seconding, then she will already have (or should have) a HMS type one for belaying, so get her a couple of standard screw gate 'Krabs'.
Here:
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/products/phantom-screwgate/
Hth
Marko
I use DMM ones too but any from a reputable shop will be fine.
The safety margins built in to climbing gear means any will be up to the job. During a uni project we destructively tested some caving ropes. New stuff with stated breaking load of 2000kg let go around 3500kg or something of that order, it was about 20 years ago. Old ropey rope that had been retired was still above quoted breaking strength, though not by much.
Go down to the outdoor shops and have a play with them. Or maybe get vouchers so she can pick her own as they're all different shapes and sizes so they will suit all her needs.
Cheers all
AFAIK we've only got Go Outdoors even vaguely locally - will have a look
Needlesports mail order have always been top-notch if you can't get to a shop. Have a good range of guidebooks too...
Haha - just been googling HMS. Apparently useful if you're belaying with a munter. I think she might be cross if we went for that ! 😆
"doesn't do anything hard" JUST hvs I think.......!!!!!!
Lol u been on any hvs's?
VERY respectable grade if u ask me! Little Chamonix is only vd and its bloody brilliant
or will a 60kg burd (plus some gear) not stress any of them ?
Avoid the ones attached to Keyrings in Clintons Cards, other than those everything else will be fine 😉
bugger - too late nealglover
If she doubles them up, will that do ? (we ordered a dozen)
The stuff from go outdoors will be fine. They stock wild country, black diamond, clog and camp. All decent brands.
Outside, Rock and Run, Facewest and The Outdoor Shop are all pretty good for climbing kit.
I use a mix of Wild Country, Black Diamond and DMM. All are good, my rack is geared towards being lightish but its worth looking at weight vs size of the karabiner.
If she doubles them up, will that do ? (we ordered a dozen)
Two should do it aye.
Maybe three if she's had a big breakfast.
Just to be safe like 🙂
V12 Outdoors sell DMM factory seconds for a few quid less - most of my stuff is seconds and I've never been able to spot why (they're seconds for cosmetic reasons only). Most reputable stuff is good, but I definitely have a bias for DMM and their commitment to British industry etc.
I'd maybe ask her what she needs first though! If she want's a screwgate for belaying, a DMM Belay Master might be best for example.
most will be rated for 20+ KN (or about 2000+ Kg) I think 60Kg should be ok 🙂
Once. I'm not a climber but went up one mostly as belay/ballast for a mate one summer ages ago. Got some fantastic photos of a girl who went up it ahead of us doing unbelievable moves and I used to show those to folk and say "yeah, I did that"Lol u been on any hvs's?
Apparently that was a lakes classic - "North Crag Eliminator" - I climbed all but one bit of it 😳 but I never got the bug. Climbing's not for me
I wouldn't get screwgates personally. you don't need too many for personal climbing. wiregates are much more versatile and lighter. horses for courses of course but that's my tuppence worth
I wouldn't get screwgates personally. you don't need too many for personal climbing.
Depends what you need em for - OP said she is not leading, just belaying etc with leaders.
As above, all pass the same test so go for the prettiest you can find. We use (and highly rate) DMM and Edelrid for all climbing stuff at work.
ot some fantastic photos of a girl who went up it ahead
You mean the classic 'bum heading up the rock above me'?
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from further off the rock than that Matt - we hadn't started up the 1st bit yet
Shame really, she was doing the splits and all sorts 😯 😳
lol 😳
The Days of buying spurious gear from hard up Czech/Polish climbers are long gone, anything (from a climbing shop) will do.
On the subject of girl climbers, my pal was jaw dropping to watch, I still to this date don't know how she did some of the moves and climb continuously without pumping out. Yet she was small, pathetically girly and weak, almost like two different people.
One of the best tips I was given was to learn to climb like a girl. Good technique, especially footwork. Guys tend to compensate for skill with brute force strength.
just been googling HMS. Apparently useful if you're belaying with a munter.
HMS is the preferred crab shape for belaying generally, nothing to do with weight.
Does she actually need screwgates? They're used for belaying and for securing gear for top-roping etc (and a million other things), but if she's wanting to start leading then half a dozen quickdraws are probably more what she needs.
On the subject of girl climbers, my pal was jaw dropping to watch, I still to this date don't know how she did some of the moves and climb continuously without pumping out. Yet she was small, pathetically girly and weak, almost like two different people.
I've always held that "you climb like a girl" is a huge compliment. A good female climber is smooth, fluid, elegant, graceful, poetry in motion.
[url= http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/the_munter_hitch_italian_hitch ]Cougar, Munters here ![/url]
That's a ref to a makeshift belay knot, not the snap link. can you still buy HMS for climbing? I've seen them still used in rope access.
Cougar, Munters here !
*facepalm* I thought you meant, er, never mind. (-:
Actually, I always thought HMS snap links were the D shaped ones, turns out not.
IMO - HMS most useful screwgate for climbing.
can you still buy HMS for climbing? I've seen them still used in rope access
Don't often see HMS use in Rope access, Mainly Ds & Ovals. Cheaper as they're often steel
Black Diamond here, mixed in with some Wildcountry.
Would be worth checking what she wants them for, might be something else would suit better.
Also, ha ha she's getting crabs for christmas.....IGMC
's a point, I didn't answer the original question.
I couldn't honestly tell you what brand most of my gear is. I think the last screwgate I bought was on the merits of it being a pretty colour. As others have said, it's pretty much impossible to buy 'bad' climbing gear, certainly through conventional channels at least, for what should be fairly obvious reasons.