Nice Panther. What brand? Scale 1/35?
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Once again I will lower the tone by posting a Warhammer model rather than a meticulously rendered scale replica of a real thing. So here's Magos Logus Torvolts, Dominus Ultima of the Nyarlax Cluster forgeworlds, AKA a kit bash of GW's Canoptek Reanimator and Tech Priest Dominus kits, with added green stuff tentacles and of course an animal skull mask:
More pictures on flickr.
Personally the thing I like most about models is the painting and the quality of some of the Warhammer stuff is breathtaking so post away!
Inspired by the model show I’ve raided my stash for this. The plan is for it to be completely out of the box (the only extra I have is a mask set), and hopefully (very!), have it completed for Christmas!!
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A question for those of you who actually know what you're doing, is there a knack to getting acrylic paint to take to clear plastic? I'm having real trouble getting the canopy frame to look solid and not like badly painted clear plastic, I'd like to not move my decidedly average jet provost from "decidedly average" to "rubbish" by ballsing up the last step of the model (except lacquer and decals...)
Are you using a brush or airbrush? I use an airbrush which makes life a bit easier if you get your masking right. My approach as follows:
Step 1 - dip canopy in Future (also called Klear) floor polish. This makes it look really clear and shiny and once dry also a bit more robust.
Step 2 - masking - either with precursors masks as bought, or very thin slivers of tamiya tape that are built up so as just to leave the framing visible
Step 3 - paint! I use an airbrush and reasonably viscous paint so as to minimise bleeding under the tape. If you are really OCD about it your first coat should be the inside colour of the canopy framing, so that when you look through the glass it looks like you are seeing interior metalwork.
If you are brushing then again I think reasonably thick paint to stop the masks bleeding. There’s no way I would try and paint a canopy freehand. Masking takes time but you can always start again which is more difficult once you’ve put paint to plastic...!
The other option of course is to just build biplanes 😀
Cheers! I was masking with blue tack and brush painting - the kit is an airfix one that came with the paints, and the issue I think is that the paint doesn't seem to "take" to the clear plastic like it does to the other parts - so even after many coats I can still see through it if I hold it up to the light.
I do have an airbrush, so I might try masking the canopy with tape and doing it that way.
Biplanes - I made a hawker hart when I was a kid and even the minimal rigging on that drove me insane, so nope 😉
You could use Matt enamel paint for the inside colour as timbog describes. Then your acrylics should stick to the enamel - think of it as a primer
Thanks again, I masked up the canopy parts with some pinstriping masking tape that I had for doing motorbike panels, hopefully it'll do the job, then checked out matt enamel prices on the interweb, which vary between out of stock and reasonable and in stock an taking the piss.
I wandered into my basement and my eyes settled upon a can of halfords etch primer, left over from doing motorbike panels, which will take to anything, so that is what I've used. The inside lines should be matt grey and the outside red lines are sticking nicely now. Cheers!
I've been a bit stuck with the F105 as I didn't fancy masking the SEA scheme, after a few weeks of it sitting on the desk I bit the bullet and airbrushed it freehand! I surprised myself as it didn't turn out too bad, I'm starting to love my Harder and Steenbeck airbrush.
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I didn’t fancy masking the SEA scheme
That's come out really well!
Some years ago I built up the old Airfix Vulcan kit (the particular boxing dated from the '80s) and I use blutak sausages to get a soft edge to the camo pattern. I did the painting with rattle cans rather than an airbrush so I'd have had no chance doing it freehand.
It came out fairly well:
Nice work chaps. That Vulcan is a bit big!
Remember the plasticine disaster? 1/48 Hasegawa A-7D?
I think I’ve recovered it!
It’ll probably never be my best work but I’ve now got it to the stage where it’s ready for the aftermarket decals I bought 🙂
Photos to follow when I’ve got the decals on
Hi @chrisl or @johndrummer I think you've both done/mentioned the blu tack and "soft edge". Would you mind briefly explaining what it is how it works? Got a few camo things to paint and we are VERY amateur here! 🙂
Basically you paint the whole model with one colour of the camouflage pattern, then when it’s dry, roll up some blu-tac into a very thin sausage & use that to mark off your camouflage pattern. You can then fill in between with Maskol or even masking tape - see the Vulcan above. Then use an airbrush or rattle cans to paint the other colour. If it’s a three colour camouflage pattern then repeat
There are some pictures of what I did with the Vulcan on Flickr. John's description seems spot on, the idea is that the blu tak sausages result in an overhang and when you spray the next colour less paint will get under the overhang than will get onto the fully exposed areas, resulting a diffuse edge.
@ChrisL that Vulcan looks big enough (and clean enough) to eat your dinner off! Nice smooth paint job.
@garage-dweller it also depends what you're making. Some subjects had hard edge camouflage (Spitfire, Hurricane) as rubber mats were used to mask the paint in the factory. Another consideration is the scale, a soft edge in 1/72 is a lot different to a soft edge in 1/32.
If it looks good from 4 foot away then you'll have done a good job.
My F105 has stalled again! The Revell decals disintegrated when I applied them, aftermarket ones now ordered. I really wanted to use the kit one's as the were for 'Arkansas Traveller' that had the pilots kill markings from WWII under the cockpit, I can't get them on an aftermarket sheet. I'm starting to get a bit disheartened with this kit, it's got a few flaws and it seems like a step backwards build. It might fly towards the bin soon! 😂
I think there's a decent chance the Vulcan actually should have had hard edged camo and properly scaled a soft edge in 1/72 probably looks pretty hard anyway. However soft edges do tend to look a bit nicer on model kits and I wanted to try the technique out so I gave it a shot.
However soft edges do tend to look a bit nicer on model kits
Yep, that's another way of looking at it. Replicating a hard edge can leave a minute raised lip which looks weird, you got the Vulcan spot on!
Whatever looks good is the right way to go about it, it's more about looking at it when it's finished and feeling happy with it. Some of the kits I made as a kid I would look upon with horror now, but I've still got fond memories of them.
Build to suit yourselves (and your shelves)! 😂
Thanks for the explanations on the paint. 🙂 lots of things on the go in our house with three boys all keen. I have a Defiant and a Blenheim progressing very slowly as I assist with unpicking a few mix ups from the boys. I'm fairly methodical on building but the paint and detail is what I find challenging.
I understand the Airfix Blenheim kit is a bit of a pig so that was a good choice 🤣 although I've not yet hit a really difficult spot or I'm not good enough to notice.
Impulse purchase of a F104 and a Russian helicopter today along with some vehicles as youngest likes trucks. I shouldn't be allowed in shops. Mrs gd thought I had popped in for some varnish, walked out with a massive carrier bag of kits, paints etc. It's a good thing she really likes the people who run the shop and doesn't mind me supporting their business.
Here’s the first WIP photo of the A-7D plasticine disaster:
That’s the port side & upper surface decals done. Only took three hours.
Yes, the canopy is still masked
Nice save on the A-7D!
That is a good save. I like that era of aircraft, I guess they were the in service planes of my youth when I had a really serious (= very nerdy and unattractive to girls thus setting a pattern for most of my teenage years) interest in flight and planes.
I’m calling this finished now.
BMD-4 by Trumpeter, commander figure from the Meng Russian Armed Forces Crew set
paints by Mig & AK Interactive, pigments by Mig. Airbrushed with Neo by Iwata
carpet monster ate one of the return rollers and one of the hooks from front L/h side.
individual track links were so much fun, my next armour kit will have wheels & tyres. 4 of them.
I do like the modern Russian 3 tone camouflage, it’s certainly a lot more interesting than overall green or sand
More here: https://imgur.com/gallery/u87sSNv
As ever massive respect for your work jd.
It’s a very clever and robust bit of kit, not at all what you’d expect from the regime that gave us the Lada!!
Depends on the Lada! I can, and will attest to the fact that Lada cars based on the Fiat 124 were truly awful, nasty, hateful things! Nothing worked very well, steering, brakes, gearshift*...
The Niva, on the other hand, has a reputation as a slow, basic but very capable off-road 4x4
*Cheapskate boss bought two as company cars. #rollseyes
I’m a massive fan of the warhammer 40k miniatures also. Taking quite a lot of time to learn painting techniques etc.
The is my latest effort. A relic leviathan dreadnought with storm cannons. The weapon arms are magnetised so the load out can be swapped out easily.
By far one of my favourite models and builds to-date.
Edit: need to work out how to post Flickr photos on an IPhone
Edit: need to work out how to post Flickr photos on an IPhone
That’s why I use imgur 😉
Sorry, I forgot to mention. It’s another 1/35 kit. No interior this time but with 80+ track links per side, I don’t think I could face an interior as well
Still on the workbench:
Hasegawa 1/48 A-7D Corsair II in SEA colour scheme.
Meng 1/35 SAM system.
Tamiya 1/48 Crusader III in western desert scheme.
In the stash:
Meng 1/35 Russian ‘Typhoon’ armoured car - I guess their equivalent of a Hummvee
Zvezda 1/72 Russian Iskander mobile ICBM system. I don’t normally work in Braille Scale but if I did this in 1/35 it would (a) cost an arm & a leg and (b) need it’s own space on the drive
Zvezda Russian 1/35 Pantsir mobile SAM system (truck based)
Loving those vehicles and whatever that is above (WH40k I assume). Not sure I have the patience or dexterity for tracked armour though and definitely not in 1/72.
Maybe next time once I've whittled down the "to build" pile a bit I might do a truck or two.
Without even discussing it with me my Mrs bought me the Airfix vintage classic re issue of HMS Victorious. I built this kit when i was about ten years old and I often think about it. We were on holiday in one of my dads workmates static caravan somewhere in North Wales. I remember the tiny little aircraft (1/600 scale).
I've just started building it. Its taken me nearly an hour just to fit the two halves of the hull together 🙂
To me thats what Airfix is all about, re living memories of kits I built many years ago often with the help of my dad.
I love this thread!
I love this thread!
...and me, it's the first thread I look for! It's great to see all of the different stuff that people are making, things that I wouldn't normally be interested in.
The only thing that I don't like is the amount of kits that @johndrummer gets through, he makes me feel ashamed at the pace I plod along at! (I've been trying to put a laughing emoji here but can't do it, feel free to use your imagination!). LOL
I have a few kits on the go at the same time, means they often get finished around the same time.
The A-7D I’ve been working on is now almost complete. Undercarriage & gear doors on. No ordnance in the kit other than a pair of Sidewinders, so I bought some aftermarket. Only trouble is, 12x Mk82 bombs means 12 lots of decals. And the rest...
Next up, this: https://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/meng-models-135-russian-k-4386-typhoon-vdv-armored-vehicle--vs-014-276658-p.asp
Christmas Stash.
Looking forward to having the time to getting back to building in the New Year.
I’ve the Special Hobby spit mk12 coming. In a few days hopefully
I sometimes wonder how accurate the sizing / scaling is, anyone any ideas? For example the Bell Huey UH1 is smaller than I would expect against say a WW1 or WW2 fighter.
I guess must be on scale within sensibly tight limits/constraints of moulding. When you look at the geekery around some of the builds on places like britmodeller people are looking at which air intake inlet the model kit had and therefore which 'batch' the plane came from. Level of knowledge very scary!
What always gets me (as an interested in planes generally person) is how small a Spitfire or an early post war jet looks against (say) an F-16.
I always think about the American hall at Duxford and you've got an F-15 strung up on the ceiling and compare that to some of the bombers below it on size. It's pretty eye opening.
Has anyone got any experience with Tamiya Silver Leaf spray paint? I'm building a kit at the moment and I've never known a paint to orange peel like it when sprayed lightly from a long way away.
Also, the kit has a car body shell with strengthening ribs inside. When sprayed there's a distinct line on the outside of the body where these are, anyone any idea how to get rid of them?
When sprayed there’s a distinct line on the outside of the body where these are, anyone any idea how to get rid of them?
A high build primer and sand back.
Plasmo ups the ante by not just doing great builds but by 3D printing the kit first...
Has anyone got any experience with Tamiya Silver Leaf spray paint? I’m building a kit at the moment and I’ve never known a paint to orange peel like it when sprayed lightly from a long way away.
It could be that you're simply too far away from the object that you're spraying and that the paint droplets are already dry by the time they hit the plastic. TBH, I really dislike using aerosol cans, you can't regulate the spray and it's too easy to get it wrong. I've used that Tamiya paint myself and it goes on commendably well considering that it's both an aerosol can and a metal finish, but if it were me I'd be decanting the paint into an airbrush and doing it that way.
If you do decide to try airbrushing then I highly recommend Vallejo's water based metal colours. The results I've had are simply astounding, you can even spray directly onto unprimed plastic and the stuff stays there.
Ahhh forggggit, I'll do it later when I can be arsed to upload a picture to this site....
I'm building an Eastern Express re-box of an ancient FROG Martin Maryland.
I managed to drop the box inside my chaotic under stairs cupboard and spilled the contents evenly between an open tool box, my "bike crap" bucket and the floor, resulting in the loss of the front section of nose glazing. After an amount of fruitless searching and industrial strength bad language I raided the spares box and butchered the front off a spare canopy from a Mitchell. It fits, but the shape is a bit off.
Oh wow, that's a Mk XII, I think? Very nicely done.
Finished the MkXII. Originally called the MkIV (and, oddly the MkXX), was an early development using the MkV (or here; the MkVIII) plagued with difficulty getting the single stage Griffon to work well. 4 bladed prop rather than the more usual 5 blades of the MkXIV. only a hundred or so built, and only used by 91 and 41 sqn for less than a year, phased out by Sept '44. Only ever used in a low level role, one pilot said of it "It was a brute of an airplane, all the finese of the Merlin engines had gone, there was so much torque from the engine, even with full right rudder (the prop rotated anti-clockwise, another oddity of the Griffon) I don't think I ever got it to take off in a straight line". it was widely recognised as one of the fastest Spitfires ever made, even left the P51 for dust low level...
That Spitfire looks great. I'm assuming 1/48 or similar and not "braille".
We are in the process of refitting our main shed to have a hobby bench in it as our stuff (3 of us bodgers aged 8-40 something) is progressing really slowly as the dining table is the only place we can work currently.
I'm really hoping to get an airbrush setup once the bench is in but the enormity of getting started with enough colour options from scratch is frightening me a bit. It's not so much the cost as what I need to get to do a fair to middling job to begin with and then progress to a half decent job. It doesn't help we don't really buy a particular era or style of stuff. A mix of cold war jets, a Russian helicopter and WWII fighters and bombers in the heap. This isn't going to be cheap is it?
I have a shedload of colours by various different manufacturers, but it’s taken a while to build up this collection.
I tend to look at what colours I need for a particular model that I’m working on & compare with what I already have, then add only what I need.
Can’t go wrong with Tamiya acrylics for starters...
An airbrush and compressor are an expense and my experience has been buy cheap buy twice, however I’ve seen reports of many people happy with the AS186 set (just over £100 on Amazon), which includes 2 airbrushes. If you’re painting in a garage, you’ll need a moisture trap and at this time of year you’ll need two, one on the compressor and one on the brush.
As to paints, just get them as and when. My preference is gunze or tamiya thinned with gunze levelling thinner. Whatever kit you are doing you’ll always need a new colour.
Basic airbrushing is fairly straight forward, so you should get a better result than brushing with your first attempt. More subtle techniques will come with practice.
Very nice looking Spitfire. Both ailerons down though?
Both ailerons down though?
Artistic licence
I’m on my third, maybe fourth airbrush.
I started with a cheap Revell spray gun - can’t really call it an airbrush - with canned air. Cost about £20 but the canned air gets expensive after a while.
I’ve also had a Badger airbrush & I’m now on a Neo by Iwata. Compressor was about £100 but it’s lasted a lot longer than £100 worth of canned air
It could be that you’re simply too far away from the object that you’re spraying and that the paint droplets are already dry by the time they hit the plastic.
I'm pretty sure this is what the cause was. My last couple of coats up close were much better.
As a very occasional modeller I can't justify an airbrush set up. I built 2 kits last year even with lockdown and most of my kits this year are likely to be buildings from printed kits.
What’s everyone’s go to for reproducing RLM paint on Luftwaffe..? Seems like none of the usual suspects do a good match
if you think ebike vs normal bike arguments are bad, don’t go anywhere near the modeller forums when they get going on RLM02 as a camouflage colour...😂
What’s everyone’s go to for reproducing RLM paint on Luftwaffe..? Seems like none of the usual suspects do a good match
I like Vallejo for Luftwaffe colours, their RLM02 is quite good.
What’s everyone’s go to for reproducing RLM paint on Luftwaffe..? Seems like none of the usual suspects do a good match
If you think that's contentious, you should try attempting to find a good match for RAF Azure Blue!
RLM colours, particularly during the latter part of the war are open to interpretation. Often, paints were mixed from existing stocks so wasn't unusual to see FW-190ds wearing distinctly sky coloured lower panels for example.
PMJ, yeah I think they were pretty much using whatever tins they had laying about! Also add to that colourised photos... the whole thing is open to interpretation...
ive gone for Extracolour acrylics, never tried them before but I don’t get on well with Vallejo for some reason, although I know others love them
If you are airbrushing and have good ventilation then these paints get good reviews from those that use them. Caveat, I've not used them yet, but I plan to test out their WW1 colours soon.
Lifecolor RLM paints are my absolute fave - spray superbly as well!!
Gotta love a late model Spit I must say. Finally made some modest progress on my Ta154. In my defence I have been building a mountain bike from spares 😀. Didn’t spend too long on the cockpit. If you’ve never used it I highly recommend the Mr Hobby thin cement - you just touch the brush to the join and it runs all the way round. The annular radiators were done with Alclad and an oil wash to bring out the detail.
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So Im definitely rusty but over the last 2 lockdowns Ive panted these game figures for the D & D Wrath of Ashardalon game , figures werent great quality tbh, but good to get some practice back in
first game with the kids this weekend!!
been so much fun, saved the dragon for last...
If you’ve never used it I highly recommend the Mr Hobby thin cement – you just touch the brush to the join and it runs all the way round.
I have some Tamiya stuff that's similar. Found it's really good on wing and body joints if you just gently brush it along the outside of the join for eliminating that tiny gap you'd otherwise get.
I finally braved assembly of the main fuselage, cockpit and wings of my Airfix 1/72 Blenheim MK1. A kit that has been soundly criticised for its fit issues in this thread and on Britmodeller. Oh my word, worst fitting kit I can ever remember building - so much trimming and filler! I will finish the blighter and the Defiant soon and get some pics up for Mick taking and feedback.
Kimbers those figures look amazing! I have tried one or two Luftwaffe ground crew set pieces, but figures really do continue to elude me.
Amazing painting, nice one!
Fantastic figures there! Especially the dragon
Off the subject of figures, does anyone else have problems spraying Vallejo acrylics on top of AK Interactive acrylics?
I’ve done / am doing a few modern Russian military vehicles with three-tone camouflage scheme. I’ve used AK4144 Pale Tan as the base colour, masked off & then used Vallejo Model Air Russian Green 4BO as the next coat. Which does not stick well.
First time I thought it was because of the Camouflage masking putty that I’d used, but thinking on, the Vallejo paint ran & puddled where I hadn’t used the putty.
Second time, I used Tamiya masking tape and again it ran & puddled where I hadn’t masked.
So I then tried another AK acrylic over the Vallejo, it’s gone down better but lumpy where the Vallejo had stuck. Time to clean up & start again
Heng Long Tiger 1.
1/16 scale RC Tank.
Is that an A3 cutting mat?
Yep 😁
That’s a whopper! Great build, lovely subtle weathering.
It comes ready built and painted flat grey. All I did was weather it and clip all of the fittings on. The weathering has made a huge difference.
This is what it looked like without.
This is the point where the Airfix and the Tamiya thread briefly converge!
Argh just binned the FW190. Airbrush/paint/ compressor issues...not sure yet but hugely frustrating.
So after last night debacle...what’s everyone’s opinion on Hataka and Xtracolour paint? It’s supposed to be “spray ready” straight from the pot, but it was a nightmare!
First time that I’ve used anything but good ole Humbrol for enamels and Tamiya for spraying acrylic. Let’s just say the experience was not one I’m likely to be in a rush to repeat, I’m not sure that my airbrush isn’t permanently borked (the Fw190 I was building certainly is) got either too thick straight from the bottle or with small amounts of water or acrylic thinners waay to thin!
Airbrush should be cleanable. First of all make sure you give it a soak in warm soapy water, if you can break it down safely without losing any parts then do so
Then give it a clean using any good airbrush cleaner & kitchen tissue.
The model should be salvageable too, try cleaning the existing paint off with “CLEAN SLATE rmvr 2.0” by Vantage Modelling Solutions.
I’ve recently added Vallejo, AK Interactive & Ammo by MIG paints to my Tamiya & Revell acrylics; I think there’s one Hataka too but I think I’ve only used it with a hairy stick.
If these seem too thick to spray, I’ll decant a bit into a clean, empty Tamiya paint jar & add Tamiya X20A thinners a little bit it a time. Aim for the consistency of semi-skimmed milk.
BTW Humbrol acrylics don’t like Tamiya thinners, they go all lumpy. Use Humbrol acrylic thinners instead.
Revell AquaColour acrylics are happy with either Tamiya thinners or good old fashioned water
I’m working on a Meng 1/35 AFV at the moment, sprayed with AK Interactive paints. I tried Revell’s gloss varnish but it all just beaded up, so I washed the model with soapy water & tried Tamiya X22 Clear straight from the jar. Job done. Now for panel line washes & the decals, then a coat of Matt varnish & onto the weathering
I’ve never used xtracolor but I was surprised it’s classed as airbrush ready unless they’ve changed their formula in the last few years. I’ve used xtracrylix and that needs thinning.
Was it thin in consistency straight from the tin. Not familiar with the other brand at all.
Airbrush should be fine. A good strip down and thorough clean (cellulose thinners should sort it out)
Yeah airbrush will probably be OK, but the paint itself is well weird, the Hataka stuff goes stringy (hard to describe really) with both acrylic thinners and water, and with its own thinners becomes rapidly to thin to paint successfully with. Certainly the normal starting point of “milk” was waaaay too thin for it ...the Xtracolour stuff is their acrylic paint which again is picky with consistency, never experienced anything like it before. Normally with tamiya you don’t really need to be ‘that’ conscientious with the consistency, just bung it in the pot and go...
This makes me think that I should stick with Tamiya, not that I had considered a switch.
xtracolor = enamel
xtracrylix = acrylic
I've used the acrylic paint and you need to thin it. I used their own thinner and some W&N flow improver, but it is temperamental, I just use it to brush paint small parts these days.
