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The plan is not three in the van – it is to use a large drive away awning or our existing tent alongside. There would be one sleeping in van – and it looks like much of the summer may only be two of them.
Where are they planning on doing this ?
French campsites ain't cheap
The unit behind the double seat I would potentially take out, utilise elsewhere, unless its hiding something and have the facility for flipping the front double over to rear facing when parked up.
One of those things that's very easily written down. Great fun actually doing it safely and double passenger seats are even less fun to Sit on for relaxing than they are for traveling in
Talk to me some more, oh van experts.
We've seen two - one was an absolute nail, I'm convinced the pictures were taken three years ago!
Another:
1. some rust, mostly treated OK, lots of new suspension bits and brakes. The remaining rust included inner front wheel arch, passenger side. A small hole and a 5cm patch of rust. Is this MOT fail?
2. It had a really notchy gearchange - simple linkage issues or ....?
Model of van ?
Unlikely inner wheel arch on passenger side to be a fail .....won't be near steering or brakes or a body mount.
But if your seeing rust. There's more rust you can't see.
Transit 350 - med WB and high roof.
Everything at this age has rust - is more about how much we can delay it by...
If it has a years ticket
And is a transit.
Treat it as disposable anything else is a bonus. But trust me. There's more rust than you can see on a if your seeing rust on a transit.
They disolve in the rain.
Notchy gearboxes on transits is generally cables and freeing off the pivot.
Probably worse left to right than up and down ?
Gear boxes going don't generally get stiff they whiny or grind.
Probably worse left to right than up and down ?
Yes, and first.
Hmm, I think it's one to leav. The owner has treated some rust, but missed a few obvious bits. A few other things makes me think it's not an old but cared for, more run on a shoestring.
Hmm, I think it's one to leave
Gearbox issue on a Transit? Could be the bearing on the selector unit.
Either a couple of hundred for a new selector and an hour or so to do, or fifteen quid for the bearing and five to six hours to do. Much easier to get at on the FWD ones than the RWD version. Very helpful step by step picture guide on the Transit forum.
I would describe that problem more as very stiff to change rather than notchy though.
(EDIT) What Trail Rat said basically
https://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/singlespeed-transit-aaarrrgh-gearbox-advice-please/
Cheers, we will walk away..
My cosseted waxoyld 2 owner 07plate looked mint from the outside but the inner sills were shot when I scrapped it
I've just seen my neighbour has bought a transit I welded 3 years ago.
It was rotten as a peach then front to back inner sills , drivers footwells and all the arches behind the plastic liners.
I did a job (just enough to get it an mot)it got an mot my mate sold it to a lad as a fixer upper for 800 quid.
It's currently up for 4250. There's no two panels the same shade of blue on it.
Sw08dxb incase it's one you been looking at.
The plan is not three in the van – it is to use a large drive away awning or our existing tent alongside.
Go with the existing tent (if family sized not back packing size). Awnings are expensive and offer little advantage if using van a more od a shed / tin tent and not s full on camper. They can always rig up a tarp from the van.
P.s. camping a la farm was the cheapest campsites in France from my experience. This is ~15 year old info though.
Morning question after thinking overnight - are there any vans out there, in the upto.£5k second hand range, which were galvanised?
It seems the Renault Master/Citroen/Fiat/Nissan vans are less rusty but the ones locally have much worse MOT history...
Morning question after thinking overnight – are there any vans out there, in the upto.£5k second hand range, which were galvanised?
Mercedes Vito?
Awnings are expensive and offer little advantage if using van a more od a shed / tin tent and not s full on camper. They can always rig up a tarp from the van
+1
We've got a Khyam awning. It's superbly easy to put up, and we've used it for a few months in total. I think we connected it to the van perhaps twice in the beginning. It's a total waste of time threading the rails etc and positioning the van. Complete faff and just makes it a pita to enter or exit the van.
And darker.
Just get a big tent.
PS, the Khyam folding poles thing is superb. Bag to watertight in about 2 minutes. The inflatable ones are probably faster, but the folding poles are great compared to threaded ones.
Any extra on the van will be either my Vango tarp and a couple of bolts OR someone locally is selling a Thule pull out sun shade thing for a couple of hundred quid - that seems a good / cheap way of shading the van and extending living space in a few seconds....
The bigger issue is finding a half decent vehicle at present...two more to see tonight.
Like this:
If they're going to use a tent to sleep in wouldn't a Mondeo estate and a towbar rack be a better option?
I've done the same a few times with friends. Always an amazing adventure
I had a Transit T350 lwb hi top and it was great. Starter failed but could crawl underneath to fix.
We fit a rear garage, double bed over and a bench bed so could sleep 3 with secure bike storage. ply wood and insulation were worthwhile and not too expensive
Not sure I'd care too much about rust if it has an MOT. If it's cheap enough you'll always be able to sell for scrap and it may break down spectacularly anyway. So i'd avoid spending too much (even 5k) as you need to write it off. Split between two to three it shouldnt be too bad.
Just make sure the engine and running gear is as good as possible
T280s 2.2 110bhp engine - how much to change cambelt and a service?
I might have found a good one...
Scrub that, its Mk7 chain cam 😎
Are they not chains rather than belts?
Oil, filter and fuel filter is easy DIY job, aux belts just check them
I think we have that 2.2 engine in our Transit camper. Can't fault it, although only does mid 20s with the fuel.
It came with the 155hp 6 speed box done just under 50000 miles in it
Hp has been upped a bit since we got it to give us a bit more torque.
Just finalising our Europe plans for this year, Might even cross paths out there
Scrub that, its Mk7 chain cam 😎
Chain is supposed to last around 100k miles - the tensioner is activated by oil pressure. Start it from cold and listen to the timing chest if it sounds like the chain is slapping around run a mile.
Honestly thinking back about mine - I loved it because it was a van but I hated it because it was a Transit. They are good when new under warranty but when buying one MOT away from scrap I'd rather have a galvanized Ducato with the Iveco engine.
I’d rather have a galvanized Ducato with the Iveco engine
The few Ducato / Traffic / Movano's locally are really, really crap looking in the photos, I dare not even look in person.
How much are new chains? This one is on 96k...
https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/689962451998287/
Mine was fine at 110k miles when I scrapped it but I did it's oil every 5k.
You need the timing chest cover, chain, tensioner and guides IIRC £400 for parts.
It will probably be okay but it's something to listen out for on Duratorc Tranny's
Edited to add - that blue Facebook Tranny is knackered! It's MOT history is full of rust!!!! No chance would that get £5k of my money.
It's the best of the lot we've seen... And there's a lot lot worse...
Edit: suggest me any van at £5k that's better... ?
Cant do the link thing on Autotrader but theres a 2011 LWB Iveco daily for £3999 no vat with really good MOT history. Good truck like (but crude compared to other vans), galvanized, good Iveco engine, Trailrat has one.
"No vat to pay, fantastic van saving. Nationwide delivery arranged. Warranted miles, previously someone did try to convert into a motor home, side opening windows, incomplete shower, space made for cooker, fridge and all essentials, if not needed I can completely remove all. Your choice.Hpi clear, all previous mot history, any inspection welcome. Spares or repairs due to miles and age. Same day delivery arranged. London based. Thanks for looking at my add Next MOT due 28/10/2022, White, 5+ owners, £3,999"
Ok, you've me looking at iveco more locally...
Iveco Often alot cheaper than others because of misconception of expensive parts.....and they ARE significantly.thirstier than other vans of same size + have lower payloads due to being bigger.
But solid things and parts easy to get
If they’re going to use a tent to sleep in wouldn’t a Mondeo estate and a towbar rack be a better option?
+1. Doubt they even need a rack if there's only 2-3 of them. Maybe a roof box for gear and keep bikes inside for security
Are vans just as expensive in Europe? Worth a day trip to pick up a LHD one?
The further thought occurs.
How old is son and his mates.
Have you checked insurance and more specifically European cover.
Vans are considerably more expensive to insure than campers for unknown reasons.
Are vans just as expensive in Europe? Worth a day trip to pick up a LHD one?
Even more expensive we found. Hence as I mentioned earlier my old man paying a thick wedge + driving back to the UK for a new gearbox after looking up the cost of a replacement
But if your seeing rust. There’s more rust you can’t see.
A bit like rats…
I was reading this article earlier, an amazing vehicle, and the places the owner has been with it, but jeez, the work, and money he’s spent on it. I’d absolutely love one like it, though!
https://expeditionportal.com/featured-vehicle-1968-volvo-valp/
Have you checked insurance and more specifically European cover
Yes - somewhere around £7-900, if he includes his mother and I.
FWIW, I was just over in Bruges for the weekend with my pal.
We drove in his VW Caddy camper.
Got a campsite in the town.
He was set up in the van, I was outside in the awning.
I took a canvas campbed with sleeping bag, a wee folding table, a gas stove, camp chair and a concertina water carrier. Along with some clothes, a washbag and some plastic crockery/cutlery and pan and I was happy as larry. All fitted in a plastic storage box that just got chucked in the back of the van.
You don't need much, and that was in January. Would be even better in summer.
Matt, worth a look?
Thank you, good spot. He has decided against LWB - and I think we have a van to buy this weekend that we have viewed already....
Iveco are a great shout, providing they're under the 3,5T when laden...
Also, you're overthinking it. My old T4 has 200k on it and I've driven it to Croatia and back twice, and Corsica and most of the way back once. It's needing an engine rebuild now due to historic poor maintenance, and once I've done that I'll be driving it down to Croatia again. And maybe up to the Arctic Circle as well.
A decent sized loop of mainland Europe in a fifteen year old van with your pals? Drive it about for a week or two, fresh oil and filters, then go enjoy your road trip!
A decent sized loop of mainland Europe in a fifteen year old van with your pals? Drive it about for a week or two, fresh oil and filters, then go enjoy your road trip!
That's the plan.
And he now has a van... Despite warnings, we've bought the blue Tranny above. It's had huge (documented) work for rust after last year's MOT, lots welded and treated, new bushings, drop links etc. It's neat and straight. Mechanically it seems solid.
He saw three other vans today and browsed a dealer - all were sh*te, right up to £10k van apparently.
My son's train of thought - all the Fiat/Renault/Nissan vans seemed more delicate mechanically, and that's more a wild card to breaking down.
Rust, even if he has to treat twice a year and keep painting to slow it down, and that was more palatable than iffier mechanical.
There weren't any local Iveco's and he/we didn't fancy schlepping around UK to maybe find a good one.
A fair assessment
One thing I forgot is that the lwb daily (common one) is too long for the ferry. Costs a fortune.
Time for endless "how to save money on a conversion" questions...
Glad he has got one sorted.
My son’s train of thought – all the Fiat/Renault/Nissan vans seemed more delicate mechanically, and that’s more a wild card to breaking down.
This is true. Transits rarely randomly break down and are usualy an easy fix if they do.
They will fail MOTS for rust with starting regularity but that is a known time and place and you can plan for it to be out of commission for a bit while its sorted.
Now time for the 'top tips for cheap conversions' questions...
The van is now taxed and insured, booked in for service on Monday. I've been underneath and cleaned, treated and painted as much rust as I can. I've also treated and repainted all the bubbling paint on wheel arches and a couple of scratches. Hopefully buys another couple of years.
So - SWB transit - tips for either cheap sources of materials, and tips for "must have" items.
Plan at present is a very basic conversion - £1k budget.
Hammocks for beds? Strung across the 'braces'...
Insulation. Mattress from Ikea. Insulation. Plastic tubs for storage which can also be used as a bed base. Insulation. Probably some form of ceiling/flooring (thin ply should do this). Probably be a good idea to get some insulation as well.
Assuming campsites and hook up.
A cheap(Facebook market place style) under cabinet or (desk toppreferably) fridge run off the 240hook up.
Biggest bugbare on European camping holidays was having to buy perishables daily.
Besides that. Windows/rooflights with fly screens for when it's 60billion degrees inside at night and you can't sleep. - again often pop up on eBay being broken from caravans or on Facebook self build pages from scrap vans.
Wouldn't bother with onboard water or even cooking. Although if 3 lads on tour and there was 240 for a fridge I might think about a small microwave....
Beyond that seating. Wouldn't bother with trying to make the front ones swivel - a. Generally not comfy seats for leisure and b. The cost of safe tested swivels is going to eat up significant budget.
Insulation - I pick up a huge roll of silver foil insulation today (£5!) from FB marketplace, and some fluffy insulation from Gumtree tomorrow. Should be good on that front.
Box storage is a good idea.
Bed will have to be a 'proper' one.
He has a 3x4m awning already.
Some friends of mine bought a cheap caravan to strip out to get stuff for a camper conversion - fridge, stove, water system etc. cost a few hundreds
Do you need a khazi? Pretty sure my mum has an old Thetford (365 maybe?) in the shed that she probably wouldn't mind getting rid of, I'll be up and down to Stirling after the next couple of weeks so could leave it there or bring it to you if interested.
TJ is probably on the money though, a cheap caravan (if such a thing exists these days) would be a good shout for materials. You can sell the chassis once it's stripped as well.
No loo planned... Thank you for the offer though.
Any recommendations for floor vents that close? He's planning a rooflight with fan and second smaller solar fan extractor. His thought is that the solar extractor can run permanently, and draw in cooler air from under the van...
Having caravanned, I'd say forget the fancy extraction and keep it simple.
Thermal blinds make a hell of a difference, they were usually pulled 3/4 of the way down (presumably so you don't bake the window) and kept the van pretty cool. Floor vents were just wee soffit type vents with no closure mechanism, usually in the cupboards and such, never saw a need for them to close (plus gas regs came into play). Rooflight fans are, by and large, only useful for cooking as they keep the midges out when cooking but don't do much for air flow unless you have somewhere to pull it in from.
some storage to prevent items being stored on valuable floor space? I’d be looking to utilise the height where possible to store whatever you can (tents, camp chairs etc). Could be as simple as a load of straps / webbing
Might be worth while getting a big mozzie net from Decathlon for over the sliding door. That's what Abigale uses when she is out in the Alps, she does travel with just the minimum she can get away with.
From travelling around Europe in our camper the heat that builds up during the day, even with the skylight open, makes it difficult to sleep in the night. We have a usb fan for Abigale when she is with us that she can clip above her bed.
https://www.jmldirect.com/chillmax-go-fan-360-powerful-portable-cordless-fan
We have a large skylight above our bed with a fan built into it. it can be switched from suck to blow. It doesn't take long for it to cool the back of the van down when its blowing in the night air.
They are a bit costly but sometimes come up second hand on ebay.
MrsIHN and I spent six months travelling around Europe in a camper, some tips:
On the ventilation front, if it's a tailgate, get an extended latch for it. They lock the boot open about two inches, makes a massive difference.
This kinda thing (check for compatibility, obvs)
And fit wind deflectors to the front windows, cos then you can have them open an inch or so even when it's raining. Between them and the latched tailgate you get a good airflow.
If it's proper hot though, there's nothing you can really do as it's still a big metal box. We've slept with all the windows/doors/boot open at times and it's still been a sweatfest. Camping/parking in the shade as much as possible is the most important thing, so weigh up where the sun will be in relation to your pitch when you're picking one if you can.
Might be worth while getting a big mozzie net from Decathlon for over the sliding door.
That seems very sensible.
We have a large skylight above our bed with a fan built into it. it can be switched from suck to blow.
He has just ordered one this morning already - 12v fan built in.
And fit wind deflectors to the front windows, cos then you can have them open an inch or so even when it’s raining.
This I very much like. Plus he has no aircon, so driving that will help too.
Camping/parking in the shade as much as possible
Agreed.
On the ventilation front, if it’s a tailgate, get an extended latch for it. They lock the boot open about two inches, makes a massive difference.
Barn doors unfortunately, and the place his bikes will be stored. I do think that finding a way of keeping the side door open a bit, as he has the awning, could work though.
Does it have a leisure battery fitted. If not its worth while running the engine every day to top up what the interior lights take out of it. Abigale now travels with jump leads and a fully charged booster for when the inevitable happens. The Italians were very helpful when she didn't have enough left in the battery, the French not so. Hers is an auto so couldn't bump it.
One of these will come in handy
Barn doors unfortunately, and the place his bikes will be stored. I do think that finding a way of keeping the side door open a bit, as he has the awning, could work though.
I've just looked, and that latch will work on barn doors too, the mechanism is the same. Would need to be a bit careful if it was raining, but might be worth looking at, for the sake of a tenner.
Plus he has no aircon, so driving that will help too.
We had aircon, but very rarely used it. If you're not in a rush to get places, you can (and, indeed probably should) take the slower routes to see more of the places you're going through, so just wind the window down.
More latch type things here too
Does it have a leisure battery fitted. If not its worth while running the engine every day to top up what the interior lights take out of it.
And/or get a 100W/120W solar kit, they're not much money, and will give you enough juice to keep the battery in decent nick and run stuff like a small fridge etc. And a leisure battery with a split charge would be a very, very good idea.
We had aircon, but very rarely used it. If you’re not in a rush to get places, you can (and, indeed probably should) take the slower routes to see more of the places you’re going through, so just wind the window down
The old 2 80 Aircon!
About 20 years ago I sold a VW T25 camper that wasn’t too bad body-wise, but the engine/gearbox combo I’d had installed because the last combo literally fell apart, was seriously lacking. The gear linkage was the wrong way round and the ‘new’ engine (1.6D from a crashed Passat) couldn’t take it beyond 25Kph up any incline.
After the couple had agreed to buy, I asked their plans. They stated they’re planning to tour Europe in it. I nearly died inside, because it wouldn’t make a tour of the Somerset levels in my mind!
However, a search recently of DVLA records showed that it carried on for quite a few more years. Whether it needed another new engine, I couldn’t say.
So the moral of the story is: go for it!
And/or get a 100W/120W solar kit, they’re not much money, and will give you enough juice to keep the battery in decent nick and run stuff like a small fridge etc. And a leisure battery with a split charge would be a very, very good idea.
No it won't physics .
Also budget
Cheap solar is a good idea yes if budget allows but don't think your running a budget 12v fridge off it.
Split charge and leisure battery on order.
Either / or solar and a mains connection - we can get mains 'extension' with fuse on, which can then charge van and leisure if needed. Not sure if a solar panel is a better bet...
Fwiw I'd have solar over a split charge....infact I do.
I removed my split charge after I got the solar system as it was unnecessary and allowed the solar controller to charge well rather than the piss poor charge control offered by basic split charge relays.
But split charge better than nothing.
No it won’t physics .
...
Cheap solar is a good idea yes if budget allows but don’t think your running a budget 12v fridge off it.
Fair enough, I must have a fridge that breaks the laws of physics.
Did you delete the middle part of the quote there for any reason ?
Which fridge do you suggest they buy to go with their 120w solar panel that doesn't wipe out their budget?
Fwiw I’d have solar over a split charge….infact I do.
Split charge AND is our plan - it may be solar AND mains hookup AND split charge
No proper fridge - we've a tiny coolbox that will slot into a super insulated shelf.
tips for either cheap sources of materials, and tips for “must have” items.
Spare Parts.
I'd maybe have a think about what kind of spares you should pack away in the event of a sudden need, where maybe that specific type is hard to source. Bulbs,fuses, bits of wire, jump leads,wheel nuts, replacement fuel cap etc.
Also I think in Europe, should you break down, you must have a lighted triangle(or maybe not, but i seem to remember something about certain safety equipment mandatory under EU law) to place to warn drivers of a breakdown ahead, so possibly find some info on what the law requires you to do in any sort of emergency situation.
You're right dyna-ti, I'll go read up on what each country wants...
Don't worry about floor vents unless you are having a permanent gas installation inside. The van will be leaky enough to allow an extractor van/forced rooflight, the cab and rear have built in vents to allow the doors to close without making your ears pop.
For water, you can get handpumps that fit on top of the 5 gallon office water cooler jugs, pinch a couple of jugs and knock in the internal bung and you can refill them. The pump I had worked by pumping air in, so a few quick pumps would result in a few seconds of water for hand washing.
knock in the internal bung and you can refill them
Don't even need to do that, if you remove the obvious tear strip you can just take the top lid off and reseal as needed, keep a spare for the pump attachment and you're laughing.
Ok, all sorts of decisions made. The build begins tomorrow.
A question: electrical power and a coolbox.
At present he's only going for:
Split charge relay AND solar panel. Panel size yet to be determined.
Biggest battery he can, but likely needs to be less than £100.
Output:
Three USB points.
One internal LED light. (Two other lights in 'boot' will be battery/usb chargeable).
Small fan on the rooflight.
He's still hoping to run a small coolbox. I'm suggesting building an 'insulated' cupboard to help it stay cool, thereby not needing running all the time.
Realistically is this just going to kill a 100ah battery in a couple of hours....?
Suggestions for cheap / efficient suggestions welcome.
I’m suggesting building an ‘insulated’ cupboard to help it stay cool, thereby not needing running all the time.
You need airflow over the element if it's a non passive cool box. Insulating it just makes it work even harder by trapping the heat removed from the box within the insulation.
Fwiw it'll tan the battery.
Yeah, we're moving away from active cooling, more towards coolbox to keep veg out of the main heat of the sun...
Cool box can be helped by covering with a wet towel. Worked well for me in Oz.
It's with remembering that 'cool', i.e veg storing temperature, is quite easy - in our van anywhere that touches the floor and sees little or no light stay pretty cool, so places like under the bench seat for example, so just think about where you'll keep the coolbox. "Cold", i.e beer storing temperature, is the tricky one without active cooling.
Agreed - we're going for cool not cold now.
I'm back to work today, but he should have the floor finished today.
Facebook and Gumtree are providing some nice cheaper materials such as insulation, plywood and lino floor. 👍
Sadly, rooflight and electrics (etc) aren't cheap at all..
If you need cheap LEDs for the roof, go to Ikea and get some of their cheap 4 LED ones. The mains kit just steps down to 12v and with a 12v regulator (plans on the internet and cheap as hell to make) you can replace bulbs in the roof with them and get more light with less current (I think).
I fitted some to my van when I insulated the roof, set them up to run off the leisure battery, but switched from the doors and it made it a genuine difference to the inside.