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Unforseen benefit of Brim.
When you print starts to lift you an use the brim to tape it in place. Hopefully I have saved this one. I think the lift was caused by 'someone' deciding the room was stuffy and then opening the windows and doors to let some fresh air in.
Lovely fresh air about an hour into what was up until then a perfect print.
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4617/39425100154_f9fde5af21_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4617/39425100154_f9fde5af21_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/234RWJ7 ]20180207_170904[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr
WCA - I've seen people use a hot melt glue gun to re-stick a lifting part and also those 3D doodle pens that you can get. I like the tape idea on the brim. Did it work?
Has anyone got any experience of calibrating the extruder steps, to check that there is no over/under extrusion.
I want to do mine, but keep seeing contradictory evidence on how it is done & whether the standard firmware on the CR10-Mini will let you write to the EEPROM.
I have seen that mattercontrol will let you send a command to feed 100mm of filament to check how much is extruded and then set the steps per mm accordingly. But, I am concerned that the printer won't then let me save the updated numbers without having to fart around loading different firmware on; I really don't want to do this at this early stage of using the printer.
I've downloaded mattercontrol tonight, so we'll see how it goes.
Stumpy - The tape held for the last 2 hours of the print and it was perfect. Result!
Please post up your findings regarding firmware etc. I was wondering the same. I did the 100mm test and got 99mm (or something like that) but couldn't work out how to make the change to correct it.
I think the CR10 is based on Marlin firmware, therefore you just need to add an extra line to the start of the gCode.
http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html
Taken from the link below:
...navigate via the main menu of the printer to Control>Motion>Steps/mm and enter it there. Alternatively put a M92 command into the start gcode of your slicer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/creality-cr-10/forums/general/topic:19224
Milkie, thanks for doing a bit of digging.
I had already had a read through that Thingiverse topic, but wanted to get away from having to modify the gcode to alter the steps/mm. I don't know why, but I would prefer to have that value stored inside the machine as a set-point, rather than it being 'programmed' via the GCode.
Makernoob on YouTube has done a good video on how to do this via mattercontrol. He makes no mention of having to use custom firmware, but then he isn't using a CR10 as his example.
Here's a link to the vid. It might be worth a watch through WCA:
I installed Mattercontrol onto the laptop last night. I am going to try to find some time between now & the weekend to at least hook it up to the printer & see if the two will talk to each other! The discussions I have seen regarding com ports & baud rates don't fill me with much hope! 🙂
Managed to setup my OctoPi to control my printer. I can now control it by the built in webpage, or if I can't connect to my home network I can control it via Telegram which is very much like Whatsapp.
[img] 
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Now I have managed to reduce the focal length of the camera, I can design a new mount for it, currently it is held in place with some Gorilla tape & card. ^The yellow thing is an old mount I thought I would print to see if it can be adapted.
After printing a couple of things this week (clip mount above and front face for the OctoPi), I have noticed I need to replace a couple of things. I need to replace the bronze bushings, 8mm rods (x8) and bearings. It does make quite a noise on fast small movements due to a bit of play between rods/bearings/bushings, but the quality is still good. I just can't find any info on how to replace the rods!
OctoPi is definitely on my todo list - Well done Milkie! - was it easy?
I've seen some people mention having problems with Octopi crashing during a print & causing the print to fail. Is this something you have experienced?
A bloke at work has an Ender2 and runs Octoprint on it. He keeps trying to persuade me to give it a go.
I still haven't found the time to calibrate the extruder....at the weekend I printed a soap dish which turned out pretty well; not perfect, but pretty good.
I also did a sensor housing for a bloke at work who is working on an electronics project. I had to use supports & found them very hard to remove from inside the housing. I used the default Ideamaker settings though, so that can probably be improved.
I am realising that I could really do with a day to myself with a list of settings to adjust and some simple test prints to run through. Never gonna happen at the moment though with family commitments and other jobs to do....
It hasn't crashed, but it has had a couple of second'ish pauses. I use the OctoPi for transferring gcode files to the printer SD card by WiFi. I then start the print from the printer as I like to be there when the first layer is being printed. This means it doesn't do anything weird like crash or pause. I can then use OctoPi to cancel the print, view the print and see how far along it is. Probably the best bit on OctoPi is the TimeLapse feature. I keep forgetting about it and you cannot start it once you have started a print. One day I might remember.
I know that feeling about not having to time to configure! I really should print a few things to configure the settings and get it dialled in, but I don't have the time.
I hadn't switched my printer on in quite a while, I just turned it on and started printing. It didn't have a dust cover, so the bed was covered in dust, I didn't level the bed, and didn't clean and lube the rods! Printed really well though, once I dusted it with my hand.
When I could be bothered and had time. I would print these:
Calibration Tower, for getting the right temperature
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:729703
This one helps with overhangs and finding any loose belts, etc.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1019228
I would also print another tower in vase mode, with temperature decreasing every 10/15mm to find out which temperature was the strongest. It is worth doing, but if you are changing brands of filament you end up having to do it with each roll.
I've got this temp tower ready to go with the gcode modified to alter the temp at each level.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1028352
The more video's and articles I look at, the more I realise that I have done virtually nothing to get my print optimised yet. I stuck in the default values that were provided on the USB drive with the printer. I am sure they are OK, because the thing prints but it's now getting it printing really well.
I still need to sort out: extruder calibration (and possibly X, Y & Z), temperature (of bed & nozzle), retraction settings (including learning more about coast & wipe settings) and probably some more stuff that I've jotted down but can't quite remember!
Then I need to tinker about with support settings because the only time I have used that so far, it was a pain to remove the supports & they left a horrible mess behind.
At least I seem to have achieved a level set-up for the moment. Last night I wanted to print another object for a work colleague. I mentioned above I'd done a sensor housing for a bloke at work - well he only gave me half of it. So, he gave me the other half & I did that last night. It was probably <10 mins from turning the printer on, to having it putting down the first layer. I just did an auto home, loaded the filament & purged some out to make sure it was flowing OK, put some fresh glue down on the print bed and then pressed go. I didn't even clean the bed after the last print, just put fresh glue on top of the old stuff. It printed fine.
I've found a useful setting in Ideamaker as well. You can adjust your print profile (e.g. use your standard PLA profile, but change the infill to 100%) and then 'close without saving', but slice with those settings. By default, 'close without saving' dumps the changes but there's a tick box in preferences that will let you slice with those altered settings. I guess those settings remain until you either alter them, or close Ideamaker (I didn't try it).
Just about to start modelling some parts for the lad's brio set... this is what 3D printers are really made for, modding toys
Just about to start modelling some parts for the lad’s brio set… this is what 3D printers are really made for, modding toys
Indeed - I try to call my toys tools, machines or whatever, but it's basically the same thing 🙂
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Just about to start modelling some parts for the lad’s brio set… this is what 3D printers are really made for, modding toys
</div>
Excellent! I've got a list of things to make for my daughter, but not actually got round to them yet:
- Personalised Headbadge for her Quadie bike
- Flame attachments for the same bike
- New handles for some foam paint rollers that don't actually roll
- Name badge for her door.
There are some good Brio models on Thingiverse, I think.... https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:Brio
There are also some rubbish things on there too. An hour of printing later and I have some track connectors that are far too short hence me modelling from scratch not just downloading stuff.
Stumpy - I have been making good use of my enforced sick leave and lack of mobility to play extensively with my 3D printer. I have videod my experiences to show how I calibrated my printer, flashed the firmware, levelled the bed etc.
Here's how to flash your firmware :
And once you do that you can actually save the changes you make when calibrating the printer. :
If you subscribe to the channel you will see about a dozen 3D printing videos plus other random shit from my life. It is not a commercial channel and I don't get paid or free gifts so don't expect too much 🙂
Ok, so how much overhang can you have before it needs to be supported during the print?
Cool WCA, nice one. I'll have a look and see what you've been up to! 😀
SammyC - I think that depends a lot on your printer, settings, material, print settings etc. You can get overhang tests to see what your set-up can do.
Sammy c - my temp tower test which is video 10-1 I think shows unsupported spans and what happens to them. They droop. Different slicing software makes a difference
Any of you cr-10 owners seen this whole debate? - https://www.th3dstudio.com/creality-cr-10s-v2-0-and-creality-cr-10-v1-1-2-board-issues/
and - http://jozerworx.com/?p=260
My cr-10 mini seems to be displaying this behavior. Can flit 3-5C on the nozzle sometimes and after cooling down on my last print, bed at room temp was flitting up to about 8C.
Big discussion about it on the facebook group.
^^^ I've seen the random debates about this but to be honest have ignored them for the most part. There is so much 'modding' stuff out there, that while this got my interest I just thought it was another thing that for the moment I didn't really need to concern myself with.
But - having seen that.....perhaps it is worth doing something about. I haven't noticed any temp fluctuations & to be honest I am sceptical if it makes any real world difference. I am not entirely sure what part is affected & where the read-back on printer display is coming from.
As I understand it, the hot-end is heater via a small cartridge heater into an alu block. The odd instantaneous voltage spike into the cartridge heater, won't massively affect the actual temp of the block due to it's thermal mass. Obviously if these spikes are occurring very frequently, it will perhaps cause an increase in block temperature but it won't be an up-down-up-down change.
I could see it perhaps being more of an issue with regards to control, and the PID control of the heating system, as well as causing premature component failure.
I'll keep an eye on it.
My Wife used to work in the electronics industry and is a dab hand at soldering - so I can employ her services if need be to do a repair! I'll probably check to see if replacement boards are available before doing that though!!
If i'd noticed any problem in the prints, I'd be worried (normal CR-10 here), but I haven't so I'll ignore it unless something more official is published.
I. Have a revolution tarantula rather than a cr10 but when I did a temperature tower there was little difference I the print between 228 and 240 hot end so I doubt that a couple of degrees will matter. Same true for the bed temp I imagine.
Has anyone noticed difference in the strength of prints at different temperatures?
Previously I was printing PETG at 240 but after printing a Temperature Tower I reduced this to 234.
The first thing I noticed were that the model warped and lifted slightly at the lower temperatures. This was similar to the temp tower where the lower temperatures 'dragged' more and pulled the model off the bed eventually.
The second was that the printed model seemed more brittle. In fact, one o<span class="text_exposed_show">f the brackets snapped which has never happened before.
</span>
<span class="text_exposed_show">Anyone else seen similar?
</span>
<span class="text_exposed_show">I am currently reprinting at 240</span>
Video of temp tower lifting from 48 seconds
:
I was like OMG OMG watching your video! I agree that 234°C does seem the best, but tbh none of that print looks any good. I can just see that you had a problem on layer 2/3ish.
I haven't printed in PETG as I haven't needed anything better than PLA, it seems find for mounts/spacers/tools. My experience is only with PLA really, I do have some ColorFabb nGen to try though.
I have found if I print at a lower temperature it is, the less likely it will warp from the bed, but also less likely to stick to the bed.
If the temperature is too low, I can peel the layers apart, they don't bond.
If the temperature is too high, the PLA becomes too brittle.
I print at a lower temp than higher, prints come out better, bridging better, quality better. If I start getting underextrusion then i generally know to bump up the temp by 5-10°C, if that doesn't work I clean my nozzle inside n out.
Regarding the Slicer differences, have you setup the slicer profiles so they are using one for your printer? I remember having a print similar to yours and it was because the profile was not for my printer.
Printing PETG at 240 seems to give the best finish/durability blend. I have lots of prints looking better than the Temp Tower I assure you 🙂
The Slicer settings started as the defaults that come with Slic3r when you down load it as part of Repetier Host. I then upped the nozzle and bed temp and thickened the perimeters as I was making prints that would be taking some strain. Once things were working I just left them alone.
If you look on my YouTube channel there is a short clip comparing Sic3r with Cura which shows the settings I use for both when printing PETG. I don't find it any harder to print PETG straight to glass than I did PLA. Never tried ABS........
Finally got round to fiddling about with calibrating the extruder.
I used mattercontrol to connect to the printer. Sending a command to extrude 100mm, actually extruded 99mm so it was virtually spot on.
I've adjusted it anyway by adding the extruder e-step value to my start gcode, but I'm sure 1% increase won't make much difference.
I printed a test piece for work on Saturday, but knew I wouldn't have enough filament. I risked it anyway & it was actually really useful. Because I had to stop the print around the 50% mark, I was able to inspect the internal features & see what I need to work on in terms of settings.
I definitely thing that there is not enough plastic going down - the first layer has visible gaps in it, as do subsequent layers. There are also gaps between the shell & infill, even where the infill percentage was set to 100%.
This is what I was hoping calibrating the extruder would cure. But, it appears to be cock-on. So, with my new Hobbyking filament, I plan to do a 1 layer thick cube to measure & use to adjust my extrusion multiplier; I'm hoping the wall thickness will be <0.4mm.
Once that is done, I'm gonna do a temp tower as well & hopefully this will put me in a better place, set-up wise. I'm still using the main values that I dumped in to get the thing running. I don't know, but wonder whether 200deg C is a bit low for the hotend temp, which could also explain why not quite enough filament is being put down.
I used this guide for extruder calibration. It's one of the clearer ones I have found:
https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/
200 sounds a bit low but then I normally use PETG filament so can't really comment but remember that it might be your slicer settings causing the issue. I had a problem with infill not staying in place because I had the speed too high.
This video has the settings that work for me in both Cura and Slic3r starting about 1:40
Maybe if you compare them to yours you might find some big differences. I would be interested in seeing what settings you use as a comparison.
200 sounds a bit low but then I normally use PETG filament so can’t really comment
Yeah, that's why a temp tower is on my to do list. I didn't bother with it for the included filament, but it probably would have been a good learning exercise.
I just did a calibration cube with my new HobbyKing PLA to measure wall thickness. Came out at 0.44mm wall thickness although gonna measure it again tomorrow when it's completely cooled. If the dims don't change, then I need to bring the extrusion multiplier down a bit.
This stuff printed really easily. Stuck to the bed straight away and looks really nice. I'll upload a pic (although it's not terribly interesting!) Still got a bloody elephant's foot!
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4660/38713920340_1b77468e74_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4660/38713920340_1b77468e74_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/21Z1XKb ]25mm calibration cube with single wall thickness (0.4mm nominal) to get my new HobbyKing PLA tuned in.[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/me96kka/ ]STW stumpy01[/url], on Flickr
/a>) and it showed that the best detail came out at 234 although it printed much the same for anywhere between 228 and 240.
What was more interesting to me was when I actually printed something at 234 it tried to lift and warp much more and came out quite brittle compared to the stuff I printed at 240.
The ideal temp for printing detail wasn't the same as the idea temp for printing..
If I could be bothered I would probably play more with the slicer settings to see the differences I could make. My first thoughts are print at 240 but with a bit more cooling fan and slightly slower perhaps. That might cook the filament properly but still preserve the details
Well, that's a bit crap. I tried a temp tower tonight and it didn't work....
It started well & I did it on a raft. That was at 200deg. C and looked fine. I left it to go downstairs and when I checked the camera it had stopped. I wondered what was going on & went to check on it; then realised halfway up the stairs that it had probably paused while increasing hot-end temp to the start temp of 240deg C for the tower.
When I got to the printer, the first issue I realised was that the temp change gcode causes the printer to pause with the head in the same position. And obviously while it's paused, it oozes a bit. This is no good because when it starts up again, it will cause a problem with printing. There was a melted pool beginning to form on the print & starting to coat the nozzle. I haven't seen anything about it on temp tower descriptions that I've seen, but I wondered if I needed to put an X/Y shift command into the gcode while the temp change is occurring to stop this melting pool.
The second possibly more serious problem is that the hot end wouldn't get to 240deg. C. It was up at 234 when i walked in, but then fluctuated down to 221, 226, 231, 234 and kept cycling around there. I've got a plan to do some small 10mm cubes like the one I posted above, at 200, 220 and 240 deg C to see if it was the change in temp from 200 to 240 that has caused this, or whether the hot end can't reach 240.
I've got a few theories
- some people have mentioned that the 12V PSU isn't acually putting out 12V from the factory & can be adjusted with a pot on the PSU itself.
- there is an issue with the PID control (which might explain the rapidly changing temp value.
- the under-spec capacitor issue on version 2 boards that there have been various reports of. I think papamountain posted some info about it the other day.
It's annoying because I haven't had any temperature issues up to now & the temperature had appeared stable.
Anyway - as an update to the above...
Before going to bed last night I fired the printer up again and manually set the nozzle temp to 200, then 220 & finally 240 deg. C using the control box.
For each setpoint, the nozzle had no problem getting there. With the 240deg. C setting, it hunted around a bit as it got close & oscillated around the set-point once it was there.
I also noticed that the temp reading of the bed (no heating requested) was bouncing around by a couple of degrees which apparently is another indicator that the board has this cap issue.
I'm gonna e-mail gearbest about it and see if they have any solution - whether they can send me out a new board.
At the weekend, I'll probably take the control box apart & see what version of board I have. The capacitors are very cheap, so if it comes to it I will get some & get the board modded. There's a TV shop on the high st that I think does surface mount repairs & there's also a few people at work who are experienced with this kind of thing too, so it shouldn't be too big a task to get the cap replaced.
I've modelled up a single layer of the bridging temp tower test. I can print it off at discrete temp points & use to compare.
I used this temp tower : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2625999
I slicered it in Cura and then manually edited the gcode to change the temperatures to better suit the range I wanted.
Thc Cura gcode is easier to edit than the Slic3r gcode as there is a comment at the start of each layer so it is easy to find the line that sets the temperature. I just used Nordpad to do the editing....
There didn't appear to be a pause while the nozzle temperature changed.
I can email you thre actual gcode file if you want but you will have to edit the temperatures back down to the correct range for you.
Hi WCA. Thanks for the offer, although I've got the gcode edited.
There are two temp set codes that I have seen mentioned. One is change temp & crack on, while the other is change temp & wait until the set point is reached.
The tutorial I used, advised to use both, so the printhead gets to the new layer, the temp demand increases, but the printer doesn't carry on until the new temp is reached. But, as I alluded to above, this has the unfortunate effect of leaving a gooey mess behind while the printer waits for the temp to be reached.
With my errant temp stability at higher temperatures, I think running discrete temperature models might be the best way forward for the moment.
Interesting. My temps were fine I thought when printing the first few things, then seemed to do what you describe bouncing around a bit. The vid of the cap issue being sorted shows it moving around a few degrees before the fix and after the fix it didn't move more than about 1c...
Last time I looked they hadn't released a new working board and the ones being sent out (2.1?)had the same problem.
Talk was of them using a chinese LMP2596 chip in some boards instead of decent jap one etc which was the reason the voltage ripple was there in the first place which then needed addressing with bigger cap. The ones with a decent chip, even though they had an underspecced cap, had less ripple and therefore the new cap wasn't needed.
Interested to see which board you have in your control box. I really need to check mine too.
Let us know what you find.
Obviously this may not be the prob at all mind you.
Like you, if I decide to change it, I will probably take to tv repair shop, even though i'm pretty handy at soldering. Can't see them charging much and they are used to fitting smd components.
Oh and I saw the info about power supply output voltage. Someone upped theirs to make their bed heat up quicker..
I have published my first 'thing' on Thingiverse : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812005
Good stuff WCA - hope it's keeping you more comfortable too!
My A4 is almost built, after a super-slow delivery. The difference between this generation of kits and the Tevo is just ridiculous, it's not quite ikea assembly but it's not far off and the basic platform is rock solid (it's a delta so smaller print area but realistically should be big enough for most things). Might have it printing today, if I can be arsed.
Slightly held up by the traditional incremental design changes- the "how to build" video is fairly out of date in places but it's nice to see how they've made improvements too. I'm looking forward to getting this big mad plastic-shitting spider into service.
Have you seen this Northwind
Did some individual temp test pieces today. The read back on the control box was telling me that 240 couldn't be maintained. It dropped down to 230, which is a bit crap.
Also the bridging worked ok but had gaps between it, as if it's still under extruding even though I have supposedly calibrated the extruder. More work there.
I did prints at 200, 220 and 240 (probably 230). There is very little between them. The highest temp one was quite stringy before the print started (a lot of oozing) so I'll probably give that a miss. But 200-220 are almost the same. Will probably just go for the middle ground!
WCA - congrats on getting your first thing on Thingiverse! It's quite a satisfying thing to do. Here is my one and only thing...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2796742
Northwind - those Delta printers look great. Intriguing design!
@AlexSimon- yep, saw that, but even if my kit has the same issue (should find out tonight!) it's about a 5 minute fix. I think a lot of the internet printer experts are good designers but useless at the mechanics of it tbh.
I think a lot of the internet printer experts are good designers but useless at the mechanics of it tbh.
Yes, although 3D Maker Noob is neither to be honest. I nice guy and very watchable, but just prints downloaded things most of the time.
Maker's Muse, Make Anything and Tom Sanladerer are my favs. Tom being the most technical.
Would any of the more experienced peeps on here be able to take a look at my design to pick up on any obvious problems? I'd have to email it to you as its for work and not exactly sharable.
SammyC - I've just noticed your post. No idea if the message function is still working after the forum update, but feel free to drop me a message or reply on here.
One of my colleagues has been researching 3D printers for work & about a week ago we took delivery of an Ultimaker 3 Extended.
It's a dual extruder so we've got PLA & PVA support material loaded in currently.
It prints pretty well, but I bought some models in today to do a direct comparison & there isn't a massive amount in it (with PLA). I suspect the differences will become more obvious when we want to print more challenging materials.
So far though, I am not over enamoured with it. The user-interface is not quite automated enough to be completely fool-proof, but automated enough to be frustratingly locked down at times. Bit of a learning curve though at the mo.
I took the plunge and got it printed anyway locally, pretty pleased with the result. A few minor problems that need to be fixed in the next incarnation but the main problem is getting some PETG in the correct colour (RAL1018).
RS Components have sent me the wrong filament so I have 2x500g of this Clear M-ABS which is like normal ABS but better.
https://uk.rs-online.com/…/p/3d-printing-materials/8320557/…
The two boxes are still sealed in plastic and completely as delivered..
£12 posted to anyone in the UK..
email in my profile.
Cheers
Was messing around with vase mode in Cura last night and accidentally changed some settings on my normal profile.
Could one of you with cr-10/cura let me know your basic settings for:
1. Combing mode (in Travel section) - cant remember if I had it off, all, or no skin. I hadn't changed it before, I think it was set to all.
2. Retract at layer change (in material section) ticked or not? It's not ticked at the moment and I think that is how it was..
You might need to enable them if you cant see them.
Just want to make sure as I was happy with the setup.
Also I've set my acceleration/jerk settings in cura to 500/8 for print, 1000/15 for travel. Closer to the overriding stock firmware settings. Now cura time estimates are much closer to actual. First few prints after have been fine.
Thanks for any assistance.
papmountain - didn't see your post before (new forum obvs).
Are you still wanting this info?
Posted this in the 'Last thing you made' thread, but I guess it should go in here too.
Made an exhibit for local Library and schools.
It's a 3D Relief map of the local area.
1) Got UK LIDAR data from environment.data.gov.uk/ds/survey/#/survey
You can get it with or without buildings. This is with.
2) Converted data into .stl using AccuTrans 3D - www.micromouse.ca/
(instructions here: 4.2 : edutechwiki.unige.ch/…/3D_printing_of_digital_eleva…)
3) Print each 1km square VERTICALLY (I did 6 at a time) So that you keep a clean lithophane-type surface.
4) Used Bing maps to screenshot the OS map and got it laminated.
5) Made frame from plywood + some 3D printed bits. Used this technique for doing the printing. www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq2O66QGCwg&t=16s
Then OSMO oiled over the top.
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/39464872720_7708d322be_h.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/39464872720_7708d322be_h.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/238nMJ1 ]Relief-map-12[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/thingswelike/ ]Alex Simon[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/882/41274407581_2538cdff59_h.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/882/41274407581_2538cdff59_h.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/25Th8oV ]Relief-map-3[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/thingswelike/ ]Alex Simon[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/804/40559841374_92290c98bd_h.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/804/40559841374_92290c98bd_h.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/24N8MKU ]Relief-map-8[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/thingswelike/ ]Alex Simon[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/791/39464865950_9dce0133f5_h.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/791/39464865950_9dce0133f5_h.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/238nKHh ]Relief-map-14[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/thingswelike/ ]Alex Simon[/url], on Flickr
I like that, looks great!
I love that, cheers for sharing!
A wee update on my Anet delta- I ran into some minor feeding issues and didn't really have the will to fix it so it's been on the backburner but I just discovered that the filament throat was fitted upside down 😛 It comes assembled so at least it wasn't me. Basically one end was solid metal for the heat, the other has a wee ptfe interface for the filament tube, so if you turn it upside down you get a) melty ptfe when you print petg and b) filament not feeding smoothly into the throat, in a way that tricks you into thinking you have an extruder issue.
Easy fix if I hadn't decided to clean up the thread and broken it 😛 But new part was £1 and arrived today so as soon as I can be bothered, I'll have it up again and I think now pretty much operational. Setting the bed height's been a pain- Anet did a rolling modification to the printer which actually added 10mm of print height and stiffened up the frame, which is great, but it means some of the published stats are wrong meaning that basically the print height was also 10mm higher than designed, so the bed was out of its range of useful adjustment- it was right on the top of the tension springs. A Cura plugin dropped the print height for me so that's fixed, talk about unintended consequences though.(really I should fix it in firmware but I'm not good with firmware so I'll just build it into the gcode)
But, I'll still say these are reasonable issues for a £130 printer. And I could have resolved all of this in a day, if I'd been working at it rather than building a remote control car and shitposting on STW
I feel your pain Northwind.
Still need to replace the heat rod on mine as well as the heatblock cooling fan. Don't like soldering, so I've bought some 3M connectors https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00480PLMU/ref=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_dp_1
In fact the whole printer needs a bit of a tune-up. Making the gantry square on mine for those map squares up there, make it bind a bit and produced some z-axis inaccuracies 🙁
Well went to boot the printer up for first time in ages, z stepper blew. Bought some more but got updated vrrsions, unfortunatley this means changing steps per mm so need to re image the arduino. Couldn't find the original scetch and cant be bothered to go through writing down all the settings.
That map is ace!
Alex, yes, still after this info. Been busy this week so haven't been playing with it anyway. Cheers.
Alex - that map is epic. If I didn't live in a flat part of the country I'd make one for home. Perhaps it'd make a good present for my farmer brother-in-law!
Well, inspired by this thread I have joined the 3D Printer club; I'd always thought they were pretty cool but I didn't know what I'd make with one, aside from fun little trinkets. The link someone posted to the printed CNC router changed my mind - finally I had a genuine excuse.
Anyway, I bought a Tevo Tarantula from Amazon - my patience couldn't have survived a dispatch from China for a toy like this! The build was challenging owing to dreadful instructions, but I found it quite fun in a Lego Technic kind of way.
I've printed a few things so far - some fun little toys for my son, a long thin nozzle for my parent's Dyson and a little bracket for my Echo Dot. I've started making an enclosure from an Ikea Lack table https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2667444 as my printer lives in the workshop with all my carpentry tools, so quite a dusty environment which the printer won't like. I suppose it'll take about 30 hours of printing. Has anyone else noticed Cura over-estimating print times by about 25%?
I've ordered a few replacement parts from AliExpress - I'm most looking forward to an aluminium Y axis bed to replace the flexy acrylic stock bed.
These are still up for grabs
RS Components have sent me the wrong filament so I have 2x500g of this Clear M-ABS which is like normal ABS but better.
https://uk.rs-online.com/…/p/3d-printing-materials/8320557/…
The two boxes are still sealed in plastic and completely as delivered..
£12 posted to anyone in the UK..
email in my profile.
Cheers
papamountain:
1) Everything in the Travel section is turned off in mine
2) Retract at Layer Change also off for me
My speed settings are:
Print speed: 60
Travel speed: 120
Initial Layer Speed: 30 (although this doesn't seem to work - I manually speed down on the printer while it's doing the first layer) - anyone else?
Print acceleration: 800
Travel Acceleration: 1000
Print Jerk: 8
Travel Jerk: 30
I am interested in purchasing both reels of filament.
I sent you a message earlier today.
Hi Seb - Two rolls will be posted to you on Monday... I am not sure how to do a Paypal request but just send the money to the email address you used and I am sure it will work.
Loving that relief map! I have looked at doing a terrain map, but it's quite a way down my to do list.
I've printed a few mods for my CR10 mini; a filament guide that stops the filament passing too close to the Z-screw, bigger knobs for adjusting bed height and a Z-axis quick adjuster wheel.
I fitted the Z-axis quick adjuster and the filament guide, but still need to give the bed level knobs a bit of a sand down - not strictly necessary, but if they are going to be permanently fixed to the machine, they might as well be nicely finished.
I've also printed 3 headphone stands! A mate saw my first print and asked for one in red to go with his Beats headphones so I did that one. And yesterday my Sis-in-law was over and asked to see the printer. When she saw the headphone stand she asked for 2! So, I've done one with another to do! Should be selling them really!!
I'm currently designing a Nespresso pod holder and have made 2 test pieces. One is a sliding fit test to check the dims of the Nespresso pods in the groove I modelled. The other is a test for fit of the tapered roller bearing I intend to use.
Something I hadn't considered is that the bore the bearing cup fits in needs supports to print. I tried it last night and the bottom face that the cup sits on isn't very flat (because of the supports making a bit of a mess). So when assembled, because the cup isn't completely square in the plastic, it wobbles slightly as it rotates. Needs a bit more thought to get working correctly.
I think I'll use a bigger diameter bearing for a start because that will reduce the wobble.
Thanks Alex. My initial layer speed is 50% of print speed in cura. It does still seem to print the first layer quite fast so maybe its not working like you say. Do you just wind it down with the knob on the control box? May have to experiment.
I haven't fiddled with the knob on the control box for adjusting the feedrate, but I do set the initial layer a lot slower than the other layers within Ideamaker.
I usually set my first layer to a max of 30mm/s. I have tried it at 20mm/s too, but bloody hell it takes ages if you have a decent sized part to make!!
I'm on Cura 2.7, but there's no way the half speed first layer is working for me.
Yes, I just dial down with the knob - and then have to remember to dial back up!
That is well cool Alex.
Cheers Drac!
Just tried vase mode first print:
[url= https://preview.ibb.co/j8sCsS/DSC_0001.jp g" target="_blank">https://preview.ibb.co/j8sCsS/DSC_0001.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= https://preview.ibb.co/kiz8XS/DSC_0007.jp g" target="_blank">https://preview.ibb.co/kiz8XS/DSC_0007.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= https://preview.ibb.co/kTfhsS/DSC_0006.jp g" target="_blank">https://preview.ibb.co/kTfhsS/DSC_0006.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
After changing accel/jerk settings mentioned before, cura was 3 mins off on a 3.5hour print.
Printed in the geat vertigo grey from filamentum.
[url= https://preview.ibb.co/mEZWmn/DSC_0004.jp g" target="_blank">https://preview.ibb.co/mEZWmn/DSC_0004.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
Wow! That looks great!
Been meaning to try vase mode for a while.
Any particular issues with it?
I was gobsmacked tbh. It's a bit thin being only 1 perimeter thick but not too bad. I did first layer at 20mm/s then 50 for the rest. It did seem to be slower on the first layer this time.
No issues as such. Set infill to 0 but it possibly ignores infill when using spiralize outer anyway. You have to start with a solid model stl, then choose spiralize, then look at it in layer view to see what it will look like.
I got the leveling pretty good on this one, bottom is perfect. Did 4 bottom layers and printed at 0.2.
[url= https://preview.ibb.co/muyr2S/cura.jp g" target="_blank">https://preview.ibb.co/muyr2S/cura.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= https://preview.ibb.co/bPONbn/cura2.jp g" target="_blank">https://preview.ibb.co/bPONbn/cura2.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
Just noticed wall thickness set to 0.8. Not sure if it ignored that or not. It was set to 0.8/wall line count 2 before choosing spiralize which then changed the wall line count to 1. I think the wall is 0.4mm thick so it probably ignores the wall thickness when using spiralize. (need some new digital calipers).
Yep, I've had great success with vase mode too. Tried printing my map squares in that as a test and it came out absolutely perfectly in the wood filament I've got. Thought I was onto a winner as long as I could find some way to strengthen it after (considered filling it with plaster of paris). However, it kept clogging and taking nearly an hour to clear (atomic pull technique) 🙁
I don't think I'll try wood filament again until I've got a 0.6mm nozzle.
It's a shame I'm just not into vases really 🙂
Need to find another use for the technique.
Haha, yeh i'm not into vases either really. Next up will be the Terminator T-800 head in vertigo galaxy filament hopefully. The front fan started making some funny noises during the last print. Everything's tight so could be on its way out already 🙁
Inspired by this thread I placed an order back in February which turned up earlier this week. 2 evenings of assembly later I'm almost there, hopefully finish it tonight if I escape work in time.
Cool, another one to the fold. How did it go?
Awaiting benchy..
morphio, what is it? Prusa i3?
As above, awaits Benchy!
I've not really been printing much lately. Done some odds & sods.
Seem to be getting more & more requests for 'oh, can you just print this?' from people who previously 'couldn't see the point' of a 3D printer.
Currently got some bike related bits on the go.
Yep Prusa i3 MK3.
Alas I cursed it by using the phrase "if I escape work in time"...
Was out most of the weekend but managed to finish it Sunday morning. I've only had time to run the setup tests and print a Prusa logo. The build was fiddly at times, but enjoyable while taking my time with some good music in the background.
Hoping to carve out some time this coming weekend once I get back from Canada.
I thought I'd share my setup - a Tevo Tarantula that has been upgraded somewhat over recent weeks. I've printed loads of brackets to improve the stiffness and squareness of the printer, as well as adding an aluminium bed to improve the flatness of the bed and a second Z axis motor and leadscrew. I also bought a Raspberry Pi Zero W to add Octoprint - this works fairly well but the Pi doesn't seem able to run a webcam as well as the printer. I've also added an Ikea Lack enclosure to keep the printer clean and dust free, although I'm still looking for some material for the enclosure sides. The best upgrade was a glass plate for the bed, which gives a lovely smooth finish. Occasionally I use some green tape if adhesion is a problem, but the glass works well most of the time without any glue etc.
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/866/26981902887_e18d186d6b_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/866/26981902887_e18d186d6b_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/H7iiGc ]Screen Shot 2018-05-02 at 15.46.56[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/39729401@N08/ ]Scgwhite[/url], on Flickr
I made a quick benchy a few weeks ago, which was promptly pinched by my two year old son and now lives with the rest of his bath toys! Came out nicely I think.
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/967/27981477018_f6e587aa9b_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/967/27981477018_f6e587aa9b_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/JCCofW ]Screen Shot 2018-05-02 at 15.47.38[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/39729401@N08/ ]Scgwhite[/url], on Flickr
The longest print I have done was a new saddle for my son's balance bike - the stock saddle and seat post were quite tall, and he wouldn't have fitted for months yet. Amazingly, someone had uploaded a design for a clip-on saddle for the exact bike we have, so I downloaded it and started the 14 hour print!
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/41133078784_650f359e23_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/41133078784_650f359e23_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/25EMMgw ]Screen Shot 2018-05-02 at 15.48.06[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/39729401@N08/ ]Scgwhite[/url], on Flickr
It needed a good deal of support, but it printed cleanly and is very strong. The fit is perfect.
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/943/41133165004_d38c493a40_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/943/41133165004_d38c493a40_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/25ENdU5 ]Screen Shot 2018-05-02 at 15.48.17[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/39729401@N08/ ]Scgwhite[/url], on Flickr
One happy little fellow!
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/951/41850221901_3ce9c5aa06_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/951/41850221901_3ce9c5aa06_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/26LajW2 ]Screen Shot 2018-05-02 at 15.48.41[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/39729401@N08/ ]Scgwhite[/url], on Flickr
Printed a pair of Snowboarding Wall Brackets:
[img] 
[/img]
Surprisingly bigger than I expected, took 3 hours each with 35% infill.
Printed a couple of GPU brackets for a mining rig and PCI-E locking clips.
Still have to re-design and print some Logitech pedal covers for a sim rig, but I've lost interest in designing them. I have some new filament to try, but don't have anything to print!
I did this - still work in progress so I will hopefully show it with the camera mounted tomorrow
At about 10 seconds and 12 seconds you can see where I turn it sideways and the gimbal catches the camera mount so that is why I am printing a larger version.
My prototype was a different design using a water bottle as ballast but then I decided the camera was good enough ballast itself if I just inverted the design..