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How hard can it be, honestly. Got a mate who has just changed his transporters and his exact words were " the front are a piece of p!ss, the back were a pain"
The rears can be a pain because you'll need the wind back tool.
windy backy thingymabob tool needed on the rear. even with the correct tool it can be a complete pita as they can seize up a bit, especially if they are old. worst case you need a new caliper
Wind back tools are cheap, I got one for a tenner to do my T4 rear brakes.
Hardest part of the job was sliding the pad carrier off the calliper because the discs/pads hadn't worn evenly and the outside edge of the disc was thicker than the middle bit.
Good stuff, so thats the only real difference from doing the front and rear??
I have watched a few online videos and in all honestly it looks pretty easy in the grand scheme of things. Its just that initial time never having done it before. MOT is due soon so i need to get cracking.
If it's like my Touran, you will need three different spanner's, a large Torx, Phillips screwdriver and a couple of different levers.
If it's like my Yaris, then one spanner, one nut, and my 10 year old changed one side.
Take your time, you'll be reet! 🙂
When you've changed them pump the brake and operate the hand brake before driving anywhere to set the pad clearances. Pedal going to the floor when you drive off is alarming to say the least.
It can be a PITA. I needed to buy a funny 10mm torx thing (rotor bolts), a 7mm allen key (why?!) and a shifting bar (seized bolts) the first time I did mine so ended up saving zero money.
So check if you need any special tools. A pad wind back tool is a good idea, I used a g clamp and although it worked I ended up with air in the system and had to bleed the whole sodding system. Technically (well according to the Haynes manual), you are supposed to remove fluid from the calliper as you wind back in anyway so as not to get cruddy fluid back into the system.
Just changed front discs and pads on my Berlingo yesterday. G-clamp to push the caliper piston back in.
It's always seized fittings on cars that seem to scupper things.
I used an old seatpost for extra leverage.
7mm Allen key as above on the wife's old Focus. Planned on using a G clamp to wind the rear pistons in but soon discovered they were left hand thread. Luckily a friend of a friend worked at Ford so I borrowed his piston tool (ooohhhh errrrrr).
Doddle on a Tansit a five mnute job once you've got it jacked up and the wheel off. Just opened the bleed nipple and pushed the pistons back.
Discs on the other hand... Located behind the hub, 425nm tightening torque on the hub bolt! Garage said it was a PITA after I took it to them after giving up.
I did the rears on my T4 a couple of years ago, pretty simple job once I bought the windback tool. I changed the discs at the same time as they were pretty rough.
I've done umpteen BMWs over the years and my T4 last year; I don't remember the T4 being any harder. A decent breaker bar is a must.
When fitting new discs I always give them a coat of silver paint first (after degreasing them), the bells & the edges go rusty really quickly and I'm a bit of a bufty like that. A little overspray on the braking surface disappears the first time you use the brakes.