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Recommendations for the replacement of rear pads and discs. Last service (main dealer, good price in this area especially as they give you AA breakdown cover while within service intervals with them) they said that it would need pads and discs in 3000 miles and that time is up.
Do you use main dealer (seem expensive for repairs as opposed to service), find a local or use one of the chains?
It's not a performance car (clapped out S-Max) so does it really matter if it has top of the range authentic parts or are pattern copies OK?
Idea what I should be budgetting for - Ford quoted £350
My wife's car had pads and discs on the back at the last service. Not genuine parts, but approved by the dealer. 5 months later the bearings were shot.
I sourced some Brembo discs and got them fitted by a mate for £20. They were still £40 a pair cheaper than what the dealer wanted for AN Other discs.
So, if it was my cash, I'd be buying some quality, named bits myself. Ebay is pretty good. Eurocar parts is handy for looking up the part numbers 😉
If I'm honest I'm generally inclined to do discs and pads myself as it's not a particularly tricky job (depending on the discs). Failing that then I'd use a good independent as I always think that labour will be a bit cheaper. This obviously depends on how much having a garage stamp is worth to you.
In terms of parts, I generally just get generic but not cheap and nasty parts from a motor factor.I always reckon that they're all made by the same people anyway!
they said that it would need pads and discs in 3000 miles and that time is up.
Check them yourself (or get an independent garage to have look)
30,000 - your front disks are worn and will need replacing soon
40,000 - your front disks are worn and will need replacing soon
50,000 - your front disks are worn and will need replacing soon
60,000 - your front disks are worn and will need replacing soon
70,000
80,000
90,000
They're still soldiering on, they haven't even made it to the advisory list on the last three MOT's.
I'll replace them when the pads eventually wear.
If I'm honest I'm generally inclined to do discs and pads myself as it's not a particularly tricky job
It depends on the car. Some mount them behind the hub, making them a minor PITA, other's can't be done without a computer to talk to the ECU and tell it what's going on. I know a Kwikfit manager who had to send a Passat back to VAG UK at a cost of something daft like £3k after an apprentice tried to change the rear pads like he would have done on any other car!
Yes, on our Focus our local dealer said that they needed replacing within 1,000 miles. 45,000 miles later they're still ok, and don't need replacing.
Just keep an eye on them.
£350!
Skoda dealers do fixed prices for pads and discs amongst other items. £235 for front pads and discs for most models.
http://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-and-maintenance/simply-fixed
If they do need done get a quote from an independent garage. If Skoda can do them for £235 at main dealer labour rates look for a lessat an independent.
@TINAS True, I based that on my experience of relatively dumb and easy cars
OP as above IME you have plenty of time. If it's a "clapped out" S-Max I would not be taking it to a main dealer, find a good independent.
Discs and pads can be a pretty straightforward job to do yourself.
Have a look on youtube for a video of it being done. If it looks like something you can tackle yourself then have a go. If not local independent garage. I wouldn't be paying a main dealer to do it
Don forget that a lot of main dealers will match independent rates when pushed.
My local BMW charged (last time I used them 😉
£120/hr for 1-4 year old cars
£90/hr 4-6 years old
£60/hr 6 years plus.
Most independents are in that £60 ball park. Obviously check cost of parts.
£235 for front pads and discs for most models.
Fronts are easier and cheaper.
Rears generally have bearings and ABS rings included with the discs. And when you have an electric handbrake thrown into the mix the costs soon rise.
Is there a place I can look to see what is the minimum thickness of a disc? Then I can ask the garage what thickness is, what the minimum thickness is and why they need changing.
Rachel
I have a C Class Sport estate. I had rear disks and pads done by a mate who works in a local garage, £70. He does servicing on my Alfa, Sons Mini and Daughters Fiesta. As well as MOT's and pretty much everything else thats needed to keep them all ship shape. (I get the Merc serviced by a local specialist).
The Merc also "needed" rear tyres 2 services ago and I checked them and they were fine. They are still fine around 15k later. Garages often just say "well you might as well have it done now" which can be very expensive! You should check yourself and wear thing out.
Rachel.
Disks didnt used to wear and you only had to replace pads but more recently the pads are made from different (less hazardous material) and I think they are harder which means they now wear the disk as well as the pad hence often both are replaced at the same time. I wouldnt know what would be the minimum disk thickness and you may not be able to measure the thinest point. I would imagine your pads would still wear quicker than the disks so at the point they have to be changed (you should be able to see the thickness of them or you may have a sensor that lights up the dashboard when they need changing) I am no expert though my adviced would be not to use a dealer but to find a local independent garage with a good reputation. If you are lucky and he/she is a decent type they may tell you to come back in a couple of months time if they think you are going to come back to them!
IANAM!
Best of luck
The recent Pagid discs I've had (ECP) have the min thickness indented around the outer diameter of the disc. Easy to measure disc thickness with a micrometer.
I usually get two sets of pads per disc these days.
Is there a place I can look to see what is the minimum thickness of a disc?
What car?
Rears generally have bearings and ABS rings included with the discs
What car is that then? I can't think of one off hand. ABS pick is usually in the bearing theses days or a ring on the hub.
Marko
For my old Focus i bought the bits from Eurocarparts and fitted them myself.
Cost about 50 quid all in for front pads/discs and took about 90 minutes i think. It was very easy.
Did it on the street, used the spare wheel jack (bad practice but i wasn't underneath the car) and a cheapo C-clamp to push the calipers back in.
Rear discs on S-Max, 11mm new, 9mm minimum thickness according to EBC
Depends which SMax model you have but £350 is about right for front disks and pads. They're big components and not cheap even if non-oem. I use a local mechanic with 'oem quality' parts and he's not much cheaper than Ford dealership - but the difference is I trust him and he will not try to sell me a load of other stuff while its in there. OEM quality in my experience is not the same as OEM. Sure they work, but the disks wont last the full wear life - they'll need replacing for corrosion pitting before they wear. Next time i'll ask my mechanic to get the disks and pads from the dealership.
I can't think of one off hand.
Really?
Audi, Renault, Peugeot, Citroen, VW, Vauxhall all do.
It's not that uncommon on FWD cars.
Fronts are easier and cheaper.Rears generally have bearings and ABS rings included with the discs. And when you have an electric handbrake thrown into the mix the costs soon rise.
Skoda are £235 front or rear most models.
Increased maintenance costs are one reason I won't buy a car with an electric handbrake. Very much in the not broke why fix it category. Conventional handbrakes have few issues and are cheap to fix. Electric ones - potentially expensive.
Rear discs on S-Max, 11mm new, 9mm minimum thickness according to EBC
You mean 2mm minimum thickness 9mm wear?
Like Octavias.
STill time to edit that irc.
No car has a 2mm min thickness on the disks.
Pads maybe .
Disks usually only allowed 3-5mm wear from factory thickness
You mean 2mm minimum thickness 9mm wear?Like Octavias.
that 2mm spec is PADS not disc. Folk are talking disc thickness up there...
How ever unlike disks if you cant tell a pad that needs replacing by eye....you should put the tools down 🙂
irc - MemberYou mean 2mm minimum thickness 9mm wear?
Step [u]away[/u] from the motor vehicle.
£350 for a main dealer is what I'd expect. About £250 for an independent using branded but not genuine parts.
Me I buy stuff like this and do it myself. Apart from a tool to wind the calliper piston back in all you need is normal workshop tools.
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Comline-Rear-Brake-Coated-Discs-and-Pads-Ford-Galaxy-MK-3-2006-2015-/232169240808?fits=Car+Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AGalaxy&hash=item360e5d78e8%3Ag%3AirwAAOSwA3dYSqqy&_trkparms=pageci%253Ab4ca3fe2-e487-11e6-8a21-74dbd180e470%257Cparentrq%253Adfc925741590a605d8c2375bffb46fae%257Ciid%253A7
The pads are the sacrificial item
Don't change the discs unless there is a very noticeable step in the edge.
Even then you can get them skimmed cheaply at any engineering shop.
Unfortunately discs seem a classic main dealer scam item. I would get a small independent to look. Even quikfit will actually show you the discs and wear before recommending changing.
It's not that uncommon on FWD cars.
Just checked a few at random on Autodata and I can't find any - I'm not saying they don't exist, just that I can't remember seeing one.
Most modern cars have 'active' sensors for the ABS with a magnetic ring incorporated into the wheel bearing. The older (passive) type with a toothed ring can't tell if the car is stationary.
Marko
When I worked in garage (1985) we got £2 for selling disc pads and £2 for fitting them.
I imagine the incentives are now more complex now but the outcome the same.
(Drums brakes were £3 btw)
next q then; I'm not a mech numpty and I do most of my bike stuff, but honestly I can't be arsed to do car stuff. However, a quick inspection with torch and fingers of the car suggest I do still have 'a few' mm of pad left and the discs don't seem to be terrible lipped.
Is it a reasonably safe assumption that the inside pad and disc surface will be the same?
Is it a reasonably safe assumption that the inside pad and disc surface will be the same?
No, not at all. I've had a couple where the inner pad has broken away slightly and left only a small face in contact with the disc - resulting in a mostly very corroded face with a 10mm clean contact stripe. Genuine dealer-fit pads too....
If you take the wheel off, you can normally see both pads through the top of the caliper and can get your head round the back of the disc to see the surface. There's often dirt shields but at some point you can see the disc face.
Disks usually have the minimum thickness stamped near the hub - let them get too thin and you risk cracks.
To change rear disks on most cars you'll need a piston wind back tool which may be specific to your car. I've never done a car with an electric handbrake - I believe for some you'll need a computer.
Skimming disks - new ones can be had for around £20 for most smaller cars so unless you are running a Porsche its not worth it.
Last quote I had for original equipment Brembo disks and pads on my car was £100 a corner.
Its really not unusual to change disks and pads at the same time these days. When I started driving disks would last the life of the car!
Slightly related thing here......
I was having a nosey at a rather lovely new Ferrari that was parked beside us a few weeks ago and noticed that it had carbon discs fitted.
I was surprised to see that rather than a minimum thickness stamped on the disc, they had a minimum weight.
I guess there's a risk of the carbon burning off, leaving a light but thick disk of resin (or whatever they're made with)?I was surprised to see that rather than a minimum thickness stamped on the disc, they had a minimum weight.
Its really not unusual to change disks and pads at the same time these days. When I started driving disks would last the life of the car!
I think pads must have got harder, mines at nigh on 100,000 miles on the originals , the disks are lipped, but the pads still have a few mm left.
I was having a nosey... ...I was surprised to see that rather than a minimum thickness stamped on the disc, they had a minimum weight.
That's quite a nosey!
I would get the rears checked by an indi mechanic, not a chain, before committing to getting them changed.
Just had the fronts on my Fiesta changed ( rears are drums ) Discs and Pads £120 fitted by my local mechanic. The discs were on their last legs and had started vibrating when braking from 40mph + but I got 111,000 miles out of them, town driving with learners stamping on the brakes too hard....
Been through about 4 sets of pads in that time, but the discs were original. When you consider most of the braking is done by the front brakes, I'd definatly get your rears checked out.
[quote="Marko"]Just checked a few at random on Autodata and I can't find any - I'm not saying they don't exist, just that I can't remember seeing one.
I think my Mum's Saxo has the bearing as part of the brake drum. But that's the only one like that I can remember coming across. It might only be drum-braked cars.
Also, my wife has a Passat B6 with the electric handbrake, and despite what you might read online, or what the dealer will tell you, you [i]do not[/i] need any special electronics to change the pads. I've replaced both rear calipers (rather more involved than just pads) without using any diagnostic gear.
This being stw you should know bearings are press fit into A4 discs.
Still a DIY job though if youre determind and skilful with a hammer.
I think my Mum's Saxo has the bearing as part of the brake drum
Yes common enough on drum brakes. Checked with a colleague (35 years in the trade) and he can't remember a disc with the ABS pick up ring as part of the disc.
Can't comment on the A4, although I used to have few on the books years ago and to my knowledge none of them had the bearing in the disc. I don't work on the coal face anymore, so I don't know about newer models.
Marko
Theres a reason when possible I still do my own work.
Rear discs and pads I normaly come in at 100 to 150 depending on the vehicle but the number of times I pop a wheel off to be greated with almost like new pads and discs that garage x said would need replacing in 1000 miles is ridiculous. Do myself out of a fair amount of work being honest.
where are you parkesie 😉
Discs and pads are a fairly easy job for a semi competent home mechanic. 7mm allen key, £50 for a wind back tool and a few sockets and spanners will be all most of you will need (other than a jack!). I normally replace disks with pads, not strictly necessary, but when pads last 30-50k then I don't mind doing the discs too. Pagid or ATE are very good (OEM) quality pads and discs.
Update
Had them done at a Checkatrade rated Indy. Discs are fine for another set of pads, so just did the pads with one of the recognised name brands (Pagid, i think he said unless there's another beginning with P - I recognised the name and then forgot it)
Substantially less than £350. Actually quite a bit less than £100