[Closed] Car Help (mechanical)

Sensor..? We had a dodgy temperature sensor on one car caused that.

Cold start sensor? How much did it cost to fix that?

We didn't, but temperature sensors are usually a few quid and a quick swap. Get the codes read first off.

I guess you replaced the battery? What voltage does the new battery have (after standing a while and before starting?)

HT leads?

HIJACK
Anyone had a diesel vacuum pump fail ?
In normal driving brakes are 'normal', but servo assist goes after 2 pumps of the pedal , so pedal becomes solid, and brake force decreases.
There is a suck on the vacuum pipe, but i have no idea how much there should be. It could also be one way valve failure in the servo booster?
vw passat 1.9tdi pd .

Coil pack breaking down ?

What car, age, mileage etc will help!

what car?
How many miles?

Dont rule out fuel pump just because it runs fine when running.

Peugeot 206 1.6 16v. Done 70k, serviced 15k ago so coming up for another service soon. Going to check the new battery in the morning before I start it but it was reading 12.6v last night having stood for just over an hour. Had thought that perhaps there was a drain but there's no dipping in the lights when 'starting' anymore.

I did have misfire issues before but they went after the sparks were changed. I've not taken them out yet to have a look at the condition.

Trying to see where the temp sensor is, pretty sure it's normallly a blue plug but the only blue plug has leads going to the 02 sensor on the manifold.

Dont rule out fuel pump just because it runs fine when running.

ah and another thing my MPG has dropped by 4mpg just recently which is another reason why I think t may be the sensor.

I'd expect a good battery to read at more like 12.85 volts that shortly after a run. As you have a new battery, I'd start by looking at the alternator.

Don't think it's alternator as battery works with no major issues during the day. I'm going to check battery in the morning before start up and when I get to work

My Pug 406 had the same problem a few years ago. It turned out to be the coil pack as the main dealer didn't change the sparks plugs on the major service so the coil pack overcompensated for the worn plugs until it knackered up.
Mine would either not start at all then after leaving it for a while it would start first turn of the key or it would start and misfire like hell. Coil pack was about £70 and very easy to change.

I had misfire issues with worn plugs a while back resulting in antipollution fault. I'm wondering if that's the case

Does it crank over quickly (as quickly as normal)? Non-dipping lights suggests battery is fine and you have other issues. Since plugs are new it leaves leads/coils/fuel/sensors. I'd suggest first port of call would be EFI temp sensor - warm starts being fine suggests it's unable to fuel correctly for cold starts, especially when very cold (first/last thing and cold days). Coil packs, when breaking down, will fail when warm or randomly, they rarely make starting difficult then work fine the rest of the time. Plugs won't be an issue unless you managed to pick up a "bad" one (dodgy resistor - also rare), then it'll tend to misfire under difficult to ignite situations (at cruise when you just edge the throttle in, high load high rpm but rarely othe times).

Check that EFI sensor (lack of codes doesn't mean the sensor isn't out of whack), also check and clean the crank angle sensor (usually sits atop the gearbox right next to the engine).

Thanks coffee king. I'm sure I should be looking for a green plug but the one shown here (just) isn't it. Is it the blue one or is it elsewhere [IMG] [/IMG]

Had a similar problem with a 106 GTi (same engine?) - would turn over fine, but struggle to start from cold then have a very lumpy idle for a few minuteds when it eventually did start and then would be fine/start first time once warm.

IIRC, eventually traced to an air leak in the petrol lift pump meaning fuel was draining out of the fuel system back into the tank if it was left for several hours.

I had a slightly lumpy idle this morning. Argh... so many things to check!! Petrol lift pump?

PS checked battery levels this morning and were 12.4v having been stood for over 12 hours so don't think that's too bad.

If you fitted NGK plugs - bin them and fit Bosch or OE (Eyquem). Lots of issues with NGK plugs in these.
Hth
Marko

Cheers Marko, I do tend to avoid NGK, garage replaced them though in the last service so may check just in case. Usually go Bosch or Champion

my advice, change the cheapest parts first starting with the leads and coil pack. Check the voltage from the alternator as well.
Had a Ford Mondeo wiht really strange electrical faults....it was the coil pack........

Lumpy idle when cold - temp sensor. It's like not having the choke out.

Thanks molgrips.

Does anyone know where it is on the 206 1.6 16v???? This engine is diff to previous ones I've had. Should've been near the dipstick but not on this bloody engine!

Think I've found a google image. Looks like I've got to take my air box off an it's under there. Same plane as previous cars just about a foot lower on the block! Phew.

singletrackmind - Member
HIJACK
Anyone had a diesel vacuum pump fail ?
In normal driving brakes are 'normal', but servo assist goes after 2 pumps of the pedal , so pedal becomes solid, and brake force decreases.
There is a suck on the vacuum pipe, but i have no idea how much there should be. It could also be one way valve failure in the servo booster?
vw passat 1.9tdi pd .

Got the same car and had more or less same problem.
But local garage found a leak on one of the vac pipes and it was a pretty simple fix.

Right then, I've found the sensor location. In the above image if I track back from the yellow into the darkness between the air filter hosuing and the engine block it's in there.

Can I just check to that's it's pretty much a staright swap? I'm going to lose some coolant which I'm planning on just replacing, don't think I will need to bleed the system etc as an airlock should eventually work its way out and I just tneed to keep an eye on the levels for a little while.

I have a Honda 4x4 that I've had from new, 8 yrs old, 145k miles, so I know it's entire history and it's had proper servicing. It's starting to show it's age!

Had an intermittent starting problem over the last 6 months. It will turn over but no sign of firing first thing in the morning, but only once in a while. When i finally get it going, sometimes after leaving it for a few hours it starts instantly, then runs perfectly.

The cure was simple and cheap. Absolutely soak the plug leads, HT caps, distributor cap with WD40. I do it once a month, or more if it's been particularly wet, as a precaution, and it has been fine for 3 months now. I must have a "spark leak" somewhere due to age and mileage.

I did remove the distributor cap to give it a clean and sprayed it inside and out, on a day when it was having none of it, and it fired up perfectly straight away afterwards. I'll be swapping leads and cap etc after my looming MOT.

Not convinced this is your problem, so before you replace the sensor check the resistance of the sensor.I don't have the figures for your engine, but for a 206 with a NFZ engine expect:
Temp Ohms
10c 3530 -4100
20c 2350 -2670
40c 1085 -1230
60c 540 -615
80c 292 -326

Your's will be very similar.
Hth
Marko

Changed the sensor and it's now tip top again.. until this morning when the exhaust started blowing!!!! Grrrrr

Changed the sensor and it's now tip top again.. until this morning when the exhaust started blowing!!!!

If it's got tits or wheels...

... we'll have a fiddle with it.

Glad you sorted at least the first issue. Blowing exhausts are simple enough though, I'll leave you to it. I think I've just blown the ring lands on my engine so I've bigger fish to fry lol.

Yup, my issues are definately simpler to solve!! It's time I need now!

...we'll have a fiddle with it.

😀

Changed the sensor and it's now tip top again

So I was right? Yeehah! I think that's the first time ever on one of these threads! It was only a suggested possibility )

coffeeking - Member

Glad you sorted at least the first issue. Blowing exhausts are simple enough though, I'll leave you to it. I think I've just blown the ring lands on my engine so I've bigger fish to fry lol.

Yup, caused by noise on the crank angle sensor giving me wildly inaccurate spark timing (coupled with 1.1 bar of boost and marginally sized injectors) 🙁

Taking a guess I may find this when I open it:
[img] [/img]

ck, what car / engine you got? Obviously something with a blower in it!

'91 Widebody Celica GT4 running a '93 Japanese MR2 tubby engine with the turbo and gearbox off the ST205, all running from a megasquirt (MS1 V2.2).

Interesting, quick? 😆
Dont suppose you're going to Japfest @ Coombe this year are you?

It used to be 🙂 Now it's a bit unhappy sitting smelling sickly sweet in the office carpark. I'd only just changed to the water to air chargecooler too 🙁 I might be going but I'm thinking of ploughing all my finances into the new project so it may have to be sacrificed 🙁 Are you? What are you running?

Fixed my vacuum leak . Wobbly pipe on back of vacuum pump . Large amount of mastic sealant and its back to normal , for now

Im going purely as a viewer, I have no car of my own. Mate has a number of Legnum VR4s....

CK - looks nasty but you sounds like the type of guy that can fix it blindfolded!

Found my leak, the flared connection on the back box has disintegrated and also cracked. If it were the middle section I would just go to euro for a cheap £30 centre, hoping I can get another bosal though through a LMF tomorrow. Just hope it's in stock!

my mate Declan usually does drifting displays at Japfest in a Toyota Soarer .
500 - 520 bhp + very sideways ,

Saw some of that last year. Proper car abuse, 30mph sideways, blue tyre smoke with the engines bouncing off the limiter. 🙄

My mate used to go there with his drifting mates. Would like to go at some point... may get laughed at turning up in the girly 206!!

Exhaust fixed... I hope. Bloody clamp seized completely which made it entertaining... in the work car park

You may struggle to drift with a 206! 😆

🙄

Glad you're sorted Taff!

Think mine won't be being repaired at this rate, worth more as parts and cash towards my next project 🙂

206 with a (sort of) drift...

[img] [/img]

Well I was sorted for a few hours at least. Had a problem a year ago when the fitting kit for my rear pads came out. Just done it again and lost a pad on the road somewhere. Put a split pin into the retainer rather than using the crappy clip that comes in the fitting kit pack. I'm pretty sure the pads and the fitting kit have been forced out of the back of the caliper itself. Took all the tools out of the car last night so can't fix at work today so it's in the garage. Not what I want 2 weeks before I head off to the US.

I think the car is trying to tell you something.....
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]

It's your own fault for driving a Peugot.

yes yes yes. Alhtough I hated my 306 for electrical issues alone it was such a reliable car and pretty much all mechanical so fettling was relatively easy. The 206 is a complete pain, I did however pay 2K for a car worth 4k from a mechanic friend as it was a cat D write off [tailgate, bumper and light damage] but still in very good ocndition. Couldn't really refuse that with 40k on the clock at the time. I do want something else but it will have to wait until after my hols.

Lets not get into the childish peugeot bashing. I'm not the only person who's found peugeots to be about the most reliable and cheap to run vehicles on the road (though the x07's have gained something of an electrical reputation!). I'm not THAT good at picking second hand cars that I can avoid all faults on cars that people claim are completely riddled with faults.

WRT the rear caliper, they're pretty safe by design, pads should not even be able to fall out unless you have the wrong (or dodgy) pads or very worn retaining parts (which should get changed with every couple of changes of pad).

Lets not get into the childish peugeot bashing

Aka banter.. but you have to admit they aren't top of the reliability tables.

WRT the rear caliper, they're pretty safe by design, pads should not even be able to fall out

This.

In fairness my Pugs have always been pretty good especially in comparison with colleagues cars. Just always goes wrong when you don't have money or are busy.

I put in EBC pads last time and as I had lost the fitting kit I out in a new fitting kit. The only thing I didn't put in were the anti-rattle springs mainly as the only set available from a LMF were missing one hence getting it half price. The previous pads weren't fitted using them so I opted that they weren't a major issue and other car forums intimated the same... now not so sure! The last fitting kit I put in was a spare so I should really ahve changed it ASAP rather than just hope. I do find that the nearside caliper is really difficult to get the cotter pin between the brake pads and the caliper however the offisde slides in with ease. As the figure 8 clips that hold the cotter pin in place are rubbish and prone to becoming lost I put in a split pin which I opened up so really don't know how else the cotter pin would've come out inless it was forced out the back of the caliper. Hopefully the garage is just sorting it for me now but I'm now going to ahev to keep a spare set of pads, fitting kit and the tools in the car to cover future eventualities as it's now a worry.

I think the key to many peugeot reputation problems stem from this sort of thing - (no offence intended, I'm as guilty as you in some ways!) people trying to run the car on a shoestring, not performing proper maintenance and treating the car as someting that gets repaired when it goes wrong rather than staying on top of it.

You can't leave out the springs, they're not just anti-rattle springs, they position the pad correctly within the caliper. On top of that they prevent the rattling around (hence the name) which wears the locating surfaces so pads break loose. FWIW the sliding edge and pin should not be loose at all, there's about 0.25mm clearance on a new everything setup and it usually takes tapping in lightly with a spanner/pliers. Really brakes are not the place to go buying half price with missing parts, but I suspect you've spotted that 😉

I suspect I will be getting a new caliper today/tomorrow given what you've said about the fitting kit. I don't normally scrimp with a fair few bits. Although I could get cheap bits from a LMF it's the same as the bike, you have to spend some money to make it perform/last. I only got the half price fitting kit as it was the only one about and normally are only a tenner. peugeot had some in stock but wanted £30 for the same thing which as you may agre is a rip off!

I'm probably not as good with the 206 as I was the the old 306 mainly because most maintenance gets done during the annual service at the garage where as on the 306 I was constantly fettling and checking everything being my first car and my pride and joy!

Yep, the fitting kits are stupidly expensive from Pug. It could just be that the slider/angled item was poorly sized allowing the pad to pop up. Even so I'm fairly amazed it actually came right out. Must have been a scary moment losing half your braking!

I was in town at the time, half term means quiet roads so it was fine and I was turning into a quiet road to drop the mrs off so it wasn't as bad as the first time it happened when I was doing '70' down the motorway on a very busy day!

All fixed for now. Cost as much for a garage to replace my rear brakes as it would have cost me to replace the front and rear. Garage said anti rattles are needed to make the fitting really tight so well see how it goes

Nowt wrong with (older) peugeots. Had a 306gti6 and a 406 v6 estate for a while. The two most satisfying to own cars out of the 7 or 8 cars i've owned. The gti was track dayed and had done 100k when i sold up and still ran like a new car. Well maintained at home for the most part. I miss it :'(

My 206 likes strange self fixing intermittant electrical faults.

Also the bearings went in the back axle (trailing arms) at 70k. Utterly impossible to get the trailing arms off to change the bearings. Local garage would not even try after i gave up. Replacement axle scourced from a scrappy.

Oh and take a pal if you go for an axle, they are shockingly heavy.

Hey coffeking, if you fancy selling your st185 i might be interested. I seem to be collecting them at the minute 🙂

What you offering? 🙂 until recently I wouldn't have sold it for the world, but my new plans need cash lol.
What fours do you have?

I've got 2 185's. One pretty standard import that's up for sale and my 430hp beastthat's never going to be for sale 😈

Both in the best colour, astral black.

They can be the most infuriating cars at times, all forgiven when you get back behind the wheel.

How much you looking for for yours? What's the full spec?

I had a 306 DTurbo. Loved it to bits, self maintained too. Bit underpowered but it was a real work horse. Electrical faults generally sorted by cleaning or putting in new earths!