Car bodywork rust g...
 

  You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more

[Closed] Car bodywork rust gurus assemble

12 Posts
9 Users
0 Reactions
292 Views
Posts: 17915
Full Member
Topic starter
 

It's like this see. I've started to tackle the terrible bits of rot on my Toyota Hiace. I've mostly done the bad patches on the tailgate and am now working on a few spots on the sills.

All of the worst rust seems to be on the drivers side. The van is originally from Grimsby and it's my theory that the owner parked on the seafront with the drivers side out for years...maybe.

Anyway, bits of the sills are fairly bad so I have a bit to cut out and weld back. The photo with the big hole, I'm not sure what I've got to actually weld to 😳

My plan is to extend the border of underseal paint upwards a little after I've done all the welding. I also think I might do a small border of it coming out of the wheel arch on the outer body surround.

My question really, apart from any general tips you fancy dropping is do you normally prime the bare metal with......primer, before you wang on the underseal paint?

Particularly around the wheel arch where a smoother appearance is wanted.

The tin (Hammerite underbody seal) says nowt about that but obviously it's normally just under the car. If I'm bringing it up the bodywork, would you prime or owt?

👊


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 2:04 pm
Posts: 3445
Free Member
 

Don't use that underbody seal! It's horrible! And shite! I used it many moons ago and regret it every time I go near the car.
Yes, you need to prime. Personally I'm a fan of POR15. That and black stonechip over the top and you're sorted.


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 2:09 pm
Posts: 17915
Full Member
Topic starter
 

Don’t use that underbody seal! It’s horrible!

Oh..only reason I got that one was overwhelmingly good reviews on Amazon..🤔


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 2:25 pm
Posts: 3445
Free Member
 

One of my main gripes is the fact it never actually sets. Not like stonechip where it's slightly rubbery and to a certain extent self healing, more like just having wet tar on the car. Every time I work on it I get the crap all over me, and I did it nearly 10 years ago!


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 2:28 pm
Posts: 11333
Full Member
 

All of the worst rust seems to be on the drivers side.

Yes, I have the same issue with my Mk2 Golf. The one previous owner lived in Bognor Regis and the driver's side of the car is the only section with any issues. I've always presumed a combination of exposure to passing traffic and a fresh sea breeze blowing salty things onto that side of the car.

Because it's 'fade to pink' Tornado Red, I'm now looking at either getting a full respray or finding a bodyshop good enough to spray the entire driver's side in a close enough match to the remaining paint, somewhat faded paint, that it doesn't stand out like a sore thumb.

None of which is much help to you 🙂


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 2:32 pm
Posts: 39449
Free Member
 

your gonna have to cut that inner sill back to something goodto weld to for a start.

underseals horrid stuff , stone chip if you must , i use the tetrosyl stuff in wheel arches etc.

, youll be fighting the rust every other year to the end at various parts of the body work IIRC youve already done the door steps ?


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 3:00 pm
Posts: 3315
Full Member
 

All of the worst rust seems to be on the drivers side.

Yes, I have the same issue with my Mk2 Golf

Had the same with both my Spitfires. My theory is that any crud on the passenger side is more likely to get washed off by puddles in the kerb/gutter area of roads. Less so in the middle of the road for the drivers side so the accumulated stuff stays and the rot spreads apace


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 3:12 pm
Posts: 6312
Free Member
 

Weld through primer.

Use seam sealer after welding.

I hate tetrosyl shit but a good stone chip is a must.

Drill a hole on top of the sill n Wang waxoil in after.


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 3:26 pm
Posts: 13369
Full Member
Posts: 3445
Free Member
 

Afraid I'm not a fan of Waxoyl tbh. Slowly runs out and needs redoing regularly. I did mine about 12 years ago with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 and it's been Bob on.


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 6:15 pm
Posts: 9093
Full Member
 

Aquasteel is really good. Been using this


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 6:31 pm
Posts: 3588
Full Member
 

With your reputation it really needs fixing with a big lump of hardwood and epoxy 🙂

Or converting into a van version of this 🙂

On a serious note I've used the Bilt Hamber stuff with reasonable results for protecting steel parts in salt spray testing at work.

https://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/what-a-car-thread-friend-woods-tryane-ii/


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 6:45 pm
Posts: 17915
Full Member
Topic starter
 

Weld through primer.

Use seam sealer after welding.

Weld THEN primer do you mean? 🤔

Is the Bilt Hamber stuff seam sealer?


 
Posted : 21/04/2020 7:36 pm

6 DAYS LEFT
We are currently at 95% of our target!